Beef Wellington

Cheers Guys, thank you for your comments, and ‘likes’.
 
@ Alistair, - it’s a fine line (no pun intended) between showing the plank lines, and what looks like a poor fit. Worth doing regardless, as I know it’s there, and hopefully there will be sufficient lines showing thro’ to indicate the planks.

022
If I can achieve the result I got on Pegasus I will be satisfied.
Looking out this photo I am reminded it has been twelve years since I last did a Top and Butt wale, where have all those years gone!
 
B.E.

Fascinating project, very interested in seeing this come together.

The ever curious modeler's eye certainly did not miss it in the last picture: Next step were then the crews at the capstan.

In my stock of pre-Frankensteiners I still had a pack of cheap copies of Preiser figures that I had once received as a gift.



For single figures too sloppy reproduced, in the bunch I thought still quite useful. So once again I broke bones and mixed everything up. Since I quickly noticed that I would have been lost with single figures, I had built a sample capstan bar for the assembly. And it came what had to come: Bones were broken, joints were twisted, heads were chopped off and put on again.







Especially that with correct posture the arms were stretched under the bar and that the pressure was transferred with the chest, was a little tricky in the assembly. This posture prevented kinetic energy from building up when the bars struck backwards, the bars could not hit the guys in the chest area with force. So they were simply pushed backwards with less risk of injury.

Since the space on the capstan bars is quite tight, the guys were glued together right away in six-packs, because I wouldn't have been able to fit them together inside of the ship.

Then the sixpacks were sent to dress. Thereby I remembered again a small detail, which is shown on a contemporary document. The inner 5 men are red dressed Marins, the outer man at the bar is a blue dressed sailor. There is also a bluecoat at the swifter, the circulating rope that stabilizes the bars. This had the advantage as the marines could not do anything else except shoot, turn and pull were stuck in the middle, while the highly qualified sailors could quickly get out and away for maneuvers if necessary.

So the inner five guys conjured up short coattails, painted and also provided for the white belts. A few had allowed themselves suit relief, the jackets and belts hang afterwards over the guns shoved to the side.



Fit trials outside then looked like this.







First test fittings looks still quite fluffy. But you can already see one thing, the expected fiddler sitting on the capstan drum does not fit there because of the next deck.















One coan see, it works with the guns, tight fit, but it works.

But it gets more claustrophobic once the deck beams are added.







But it still gets much tighter, the knees are still missing. http://www.shipmodels.info/mws_forum/images/smilies/icon_smile.gif





Once the knees were added, it was a squeeze fit, no more air to press out, but it fits.













No more surplus air in there ...

XXXDAn

To warm up and get into the groove, I finally gave the Brodie Stove its colors.

Since more than 2 years it stands a bit naked on the middle deck ...



... so I sprayed it a little black and put a touch of graphite on it ...





... and up to the place with it http://www.shipmodels.info/mws_forum/images/smilies/icon_smile.gif










XXXDAn

Post Thirty-eight
 
Main Wales
With a supply of planks cut, application can begin.

1077
I start at the bow with a full-length plank, touch end to the stem. The planks will continue in this sequence to the stern.

1078
Below this a shorter plank starts at the touch and runs to the stem.
The total depth of these two planks must be 8mm.

1079
I work both strakes sequentially as I go along, making minor tweaks as necessary.

1082
For the lower set of strakes I begin with the touch end starting midway along the foremost plank above it, to create a shift in the butts.

1085
This second set also starts with the straight edge upwards and continues in the same manner.

1093
The final plank of the lower strake is shaped to follow the curve of the hull and will be finally fettled as the wale is shaped to follow the transom line.

1090
Two days work and the Starboard side wale is completed. A lot less fiddly than Hook and Butt but still gives a more authentic look than straight plank Wales.

1099
The overall depth of the wale is 16mm around 3’ 4”.
This is deeper that the kit wale by 1mm but is still slightly less that the depth given by Goodwin for a thirty-eight-gun frigate of 3’ 6.”

1098

1100
The wales will be cleaned up after the Port side have been fitted.
 
B.E.
10/06/2023
 
 

Fascinating project, very interested in seeing this come together.

Hi Guys, 
So I’ve been developing HMS Portland for about two years now and I plan to offer it as a kit, it will be sold in parts or sections so you can build at whatever speed you wish or only purchase what you want and scratch build the rest. The project will
be in 1:48 scale and will be offered mainly in Alaskan yellow cedar and other various woods including boxwood for select parts and I’m leaning towards MDF structure but I will have to see how the initial prototype builds.
As a Winnie builder, I was inspired and blown away by Chucks incredible design work and flawless representation of the Winchelsea, so much that I purchased a laser machine and started designing. My aim is to offer a model as detailed and accurate as possible.
The model is designed to represent the dockyard style model of Portland as depicted in the Joseph Marshal paintings of 1774, as seen below. 
There are enough early drawings of Portland available to accurately represent her as initially designed, these drawings also match up well with the paintings of the contemporary model, she does differ from her closest sister, Bristol but the model could be modified to represent Bristol if desired. 

It will have all decks built and exposed down to the main gun deck showing all frames, guns and fittings.



currently the model is in its final stages of design/development, I will begin assembling the hull and proving the design as I go, I don’t plan to offer parts of the kit until I’m very very far into the build. Currently the sculptures are being finalized with the figurehead of Artemis, the Greek goddess of hunting already being produced, I should be able to post updates on the stern carvings in a couple months.


I am going to try and offer both resin and boxwood sculptures for this project, I haven’t been able to determine the cost of the full set yet but it shouldn’t be outrageous.
 
At 1:48 the model comes in just under 43” long and about 10.5” in beam. So it’s not unmanageable,
unless of course you decide to rig it.



The design prototype shows half the model with exposed frames, as the contemporary model was built, I may offer a version like this but it will be very expensive and tricky to build, it will be a hybrid POF/POB if released. I will likely start a test portion of this alongside the prototype build.
 
Currently I have set up my new laser machine and I’m cutting some parts just for testing purposes, I took some photos next to my Winnie to give an idea of scale. I think the two will look great sitting next to eachother.
 
 

For what its worth Kevin (and please feel free to delete!) I experimented a little with wipe on poly and tung oil when I was trying to decide.  I found the sample sheet from what must now be close to 7yrs ago, although this has not been in sunlight (though this photo was taken in natural light)  The wipe on poly gives a little more of a rich finish to my eye.  I seem to recall putting a second coat of both on the outside edge and this is faintly visible as well, both being a little 'richer' again.  Of course, your results may vary....

Post Thirty-four
 
Topside work continues.
Having eventually squared (or rectangled) the gunports, I turn my attention to lining the ports.
 
Notwithstanding that there has been a deal of discussion on the forum as to how these were formed and where deployed, Chris has provided the makings for the linings or stops, pre-shaped for the angles involved.
Only the foremost and aftermost three ports are catered for but the pieces do require fettling to fit.
 
Fiddly little beggars to fit but perhaps an easier option than using the outer planking to form the rebate.
I did find the depth of the parts was a little narrow to meet the inboard edge of the port, whether this is a design simplification I don’t know, but the usual practice was that the stops abutted the inboard framing and were then boarded over with the quick works and spirketting to the edge of the port.
 
The frets provide useful basic patterns for these parts, to replicate linings, and I will keep the frets as a template for future use.

1001
The thin 0.6mm board required bracing during fitting to prevent curl.
1008
It’s a slow business fitting the linings.

1007
A piece is provided for the top of the port opening, but these were not fitted in practice, and I will leave them off, saving me a little effort.

1009
The ports are masked to apply a first coat of paint.
I don’t want any bleed onto the outer woodwork, as this won’t be painted.

1010

1013
The masking seems to work well, keeping the paint line within the rebate.

1016
The macros show minor gaps that require filling, and rough areas that require smoothing before repainting.
 
I have decided to line the remainder of the ports, I think they look better, although it probably adds up to another weeks work.
 
Moving on - if slowly.
 
B.E.
02/06/2023
 

Making progress on the masts, yards, etc.  I have learned a lot, and have hacked a few items (e.g., the main yard) to the point where a redo might be appropriate.  It might not be so obvious when they are painted black.  It is slow going, lots of other tasks to address, etc.  However, all the channels and deadeyes/chainplates are pinned to the hull and ready to be nailed down, and the main mast top has gotten its finishing coats of wipe-on and is looking pretty good.  Slow and steady as she goes.

I sent for some longer Amati oars for the cutters but they are pretty ugly and much oversize. I attempted to whittle them down but gave up because they are made from limewood and I thought they wouldn’t stand much thinning down.
In the end I made my own from 1mm brass rod and 4x1 tanganyika that I had.
 

They are from the left, Amati, Vanguard Models, my versions for 18’ and 24’cutter.
 
In the meantime my ropes arrived from Ben so I continued with a bit more rigging. Belaying the tacks proved to be less of a problem than anticipated although access under the gangway and around the guns is still tight. However I have run into a problem with the main sheets. The photo below illustrates the problem in that the standing part cuts across the barrel of the carronade. The eyebolt for the standing part is a little close to the gunport lid but moving it aft wouldn’t alter the fact that the rope would still cross the gun. I think this is a consequence of my moving the quarterdeck guns around to fit the open rails. If the gun was a little further forward and the eyebolt a little further aft, I might have got away with it. Too late to change now.

My solution is to move the eyebolt forward of the gunport as shown in the photo below.

Not ideal but...
 
Thanks for the likes and for looking in.
David

Thanks for kind words Wayne, Eamonn, Carl, Mike and the 'likes'...
 
I do have a couple of question that may be very basic but I'm struggling to answer:
Should the external dimension of open gunports (i.e. without lids) and those with lids be the same (which would mean that the actual dimensions of the port aperture would be slightly smaller for those with lids because of the lip)?  Or, should the aperture dimensions be the same, which means the ports with lids are slightly bigger Should the lower edge of the port be parallel to the deck or the keel and should the sides of the port be perpendicular to the keel?. (The former resulting in a slightly trapezoidal shape toward stern and bow).   Hope this makes sense, any help would be much appreciated.

The following illustration comes from Old Ship Figure-heads and Sterns by L. G. Carr Laughton (1925).  Think this summarizes the trends in ship colours nicely, and is not identified as nation specific.  Unfortunately, no specific dates are provided, but that seems reasonable as changes would likely not be introduced instantaneously, and there were very likely exceptions.  The one takeaway is that red/yellow ochre went through various interations, white was gradually introduced as a decorative element (pin striping on the edge of bands) and finally became prevalent along with green, likely becuase of paint technology/cost evolution.
 

some masterful work there David, know how long that must have taken!  You've achieved a very authentic look, nicely done!

The following illustration comes from Old Ship Figure-heads and Sterns by L. G. Carr Laughton (1925).  Think this summarizes the trends in ship colours nicely, and is not identified as nation specific.  Unfortunately, no specific dates are provided, but that seems reasonable as changes would likely not be introduced instantaneously, and there were very likely exceptions.  The one takeaway is that red/yellow ochre went through various interations, white was gradually introduced as a decorative element (pin striping on the edge of bands) and finally became prevalent along with green, likely becuase of paint technology/cost evolution.
 

The following illustration comes from Old Ship Figure-heads and Sterns by L. G. Carr Laughton (1925).  Think this summarizes the trends in ship colours nicely, and is not identified as nation specific.  Unfortunately, no specific dates are provided, but that seems reasonable as changes would likely not be introduced instantaneously, and there were very likely exceptions.  The one takeaway is that red/yellow ochre went through various interations, white was gradually introduced as a decorative element (pin striping on the edge of bands) and finally became prevalent along with green, likely becuase of paint technology/cost evolution.
 

some masterful work there David, know how long that must have taken!  You've achieved a very authentic look, nicely done!

The following illustration comes from Old Ship Figure-heads and Sterns by L. G. Carr Laughton (1925).  Think this summarizes the trends in ship colours nicely, and is not identified as nation specific.  Unfortunately, no specific dates are provided, but that seems reasonable as changes would likely not be introduced instantaneously, and there were very likely exceptions.  The one takeaway is that red/yellow ochre went through various interations, white was gradually introduced as a decorative element (pin striping on the edge of bands) and finally became prevalent along with green, likely becuase of paint technology/cost evolution.
 

some masterful work there David, know how long that must have taken!  You've achieved a very authentic look, nicely done!

The following illustration comes from Old Ship Figure-heads and Sterns by L. G. Carr Laughton (1925).  Think this summarizes the trends in ship colours nicely, and is not identified as nation specific.  Unfortunately, no specific dates are provided, but that seems reasonable as changes would likely not be introduced instantaneously, and there were very likely exceptions.  The one takeaway is that red/yellow ochre went through various interations, white was gradually introduced as a decorative element (pin striping on the edge of bands) and finally became prevalent along with green, likely becuase of paint technology/cost evolution.
 

The following illustration comes from Old Ship Figure-heads and Sterns by L. G. Carr Laughton (1925).  Think this summarizes the trends in ship colours nicely, and is not identified as nation specific.  Unfortunately, no specific dates are provided, but that seems reasonable as changes would likely not be introduced instantaneously, and there were very likely exceptions.  The one takeaway is that red/yellow ochre went through various interations, white was gradually introduced as a decorative element (pin striping on the edge of bands) and finally became prevalent along with green, likely becuase of paint technology/cost evolution.
 

The following illustration comes from Old Ship Figure-heads and Sterns by L. G. Carr Laughton (1925).  Think this summarizes the trends in ship colours nicely, and is not identified as nation specific.  Unfortunately, no specific dates are provided, but that seems reasonable as changes would likely not be introduced instantaneously, and there were very likely exceptions.  The one takeaway is that red/yellow ochre went through various interations, white was gradually introduced as a decorative element (pin striping on the edge of bands) and finally became prevalent along with green, likely becuase of paint technology/cost evolution.
 

Almost ready. It remains to put a couple of parts and make a decent stand. Enterprise, 1774, Gregorian style. Scale 1:36.

some masterful work there David, know how long that must have taken!  You've achieved a very authentic look, nicely done!

good evening everyone
thank you for comments and likes
day 90-2
a bit of progress since my last update
we now have a full gundeck, cannon allowance
hatches, with cannon balls are made up and fitted
all the deck beams are in
i may have a couple of beam supports to place into position
although these will never be seen, i am at present putting in hanging and lodging knees,