Beef Wellington

The channels and related bits and pieces are taking far longer than I thought.  All of the channels, chain plates etc. are dry-fitted in the following photos.  As you may see, I have used Tamiya tape upon which to mark lines established from thread tied to the masts leading to the chain plates.  A pin was then put through the hole in the bottom of the chainplate which was then used to mark the place on the drawn line for the drill hole.
 

 



I had made up all the pedestals for the guns, forgetting that four on them were over the channels.  I cut down the four I had previously prepared to rest on the channels and cut their tops off at the appropriate height.  Shown here they are dry-fitted and before being repainted.
 

 
 

New York 1886
Miss Liberty still covered in scaffolding. Typical harbour traffic.
W/C 16” X 11”

P&O Liner Ranpura as an Armed Merchant Cruiser escorting a Convoy
W/C 12” X 9”
 

This kit looks fascinating, so much complexity in a good way.  Nice start!

Update:
cockpit floor, ballast, outcut....
 
when walking the dog this morning, I was gathering these small "rocks" for use as natural ballast, well hidden beneath the floor planking
 
Nils

the ballast stones here will only be placed in these underfloor cells that remain visible through the floor outcut
 

 
 

many thanks for looking in Peter and for your nice comment,
 
yes you`re right, comfort on the Zeesboot is going against zero. The model is more of the heritage type around turn of the century, after the two world wars, when these were pure working boats. The motorisation is a compromise already.  I`m sure that many of the modernized, overhauled and new fitted out boats turned into more or less small pleasure craft, also with extended deckhousings partialy covering the former work-cockpit ares for the benefit of more leasure and space on board.... Here the standing hight is only given under the roof of the front deck house
Update:
Starting the floor of the working area.....
 
Nils

this is the cockpit floor structure
 

 
the centerboard fits in, through the floor...

I`m intending to outcut the floor afterwards, in order to give sight to ballast stones and pebbles that go between the floor structure spaces
 

the fisher is standing next to the centerboard casing, where there will be on both sides a water containing locker for live fish, directly from the catch
he shall maybe be holding a reasonable eel in his hands, before it goes to the locker....
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

the cocpit floor is done with a thin layer of 0,8 mm ply, planked with 1 x 5 mm stips of oak with pencil caulked edges. The outcut for the centerboard case is being integrated
 
 

Thanks everyone, need to record a few things before moving on too much further:
 
Tackles:
Boy, these blighters take time.  I will definitely not be fully rigging each gun, but will look to rig those fall into possibly the 'noticeable in the background' category.  Here's the method I found works best for me.  Apologies for the photos, an iPhone is really not the best at trying to photograph tiny objects suspended in the air.
 
A hook was threaded with 0.3mm Syren line and some overhand knots tied to seize this securely.  Drop of GS Hypo cement to keep secure before trimming excess.  The long ends are then placed around the block and loose overhand knot tied.
 

 
A length of line for the tackle fall is then inserted into the loop and then threaded back through itself as for a false splice.

 
Pulling the overhand know tight around the block, and simultaneously tightening the false splice secures the knot around the block.  Another small drop of GS Hypo cement on the false splice helps keep this secure, and placing the end of the stropping line into 'helping hands' helps keep the knot tight while the cement dries.

 
Slightly weighting the tackle fall line (in this case with tweezers) allows the alignment if the block to be tweaked before the cement sets fully.  Thin thread can then be seized around the splice to secure it, I find alternating overhand knots gives a pretty secure and easy result.  Once more, another drop of GS Hypo on the seizing helps ensure this doesn't unravel once trimmed.

 

 
Once completed, I use some dilute PVA glue on the stropping prior to trimming off any excess as some additional insurance as it is a frustrating experience for these to break when frapping.  The tackle falls were then fed through the previously stropped double blocks, and then frapped on the service machine as per a previous post.  The last turn was secured simply by feeding back through the prior turn and pulling taught.  The completed tackle can then be placed where needed and some dilute PVA applied again to the whole tackle - special attention was paid to ensuring the tackle fed through the frapping was secured with glue.  The entire tackle can then be removed once dry and the excess line trimmed.  Its a simple matter to hook these back into position.  Et voila!
 

 
Stove:
The stove has also been given a little more TLC and is now glued into position.  Handles for the boilers were added, as well as rails which were made from brass rod.  The rails were the treated with some JAX 'Brown' to darken it a little a keep it in keeping with the colour of the copper still.  As described in a previous post, I've followed TFFM simulating wooden battens under the custom base plate rather than simulating tiles, they would not been seen in any event once the main riding bitts are in place.  Temporarily putting the fo'c'sl deck in place shows that much of this will be obscured even if the various gratings are made removeable which I plan to do.
 

 
In closing, a quick summary of the 3D printed stove.  With a little work I'm happy with the way this turned out.  Comparison to the kit supplied version shows the dimensions to be a little more authentic, and the detailing is much more pleasing than the approximations on the supplied white metal parts.  To be fair, no work was done to pretty this up, but I'd certainly recommend this as a simple 'upgrade'.
 

 
 
 

I tried druxey's idea of string glued to the line. It is definitely easier than clamping a batten, and easier to see. the bow definitely fairs more easily.  I am not quite sure how easy it will be to fit the individual strakes to this string; it was very comforting to sit the strake on the batten as I fitted its edge.
 
Mark

Thanks, Gary, I see I will have to spend a little time tracking down rigging arrangements in a couple of sources to see what makes sense for the Bellona. This may be a winter project!
 
At last, I got some time in the shop this morning. I decided to plank the sides, then mask and spray the main wales. I have too many edges on the wales against finished wood, and I am afraid that staining will leech through into the grain of adjacent wood--at least, that is what my tests have shown might happen. So I am not going to risk it. I will mask the wales, and then airbrush a number of thin layers of Admiralty Paints Dull Black.
 
Also, planking above the wales before painting allows me to adjust the black strake to the wales' thickness with a contoured sandpaper block, and so I need to save paint for when everything is adjusted and clean.
 
So, taking the advice of Gary and Siggi, I will install the channel wales next, coming back to plank the thinner stuff between the two.
It worked for the main wales to install a batten below, and I have started with the same idea for the channel wales. However, I see that things are not quite parallel at the bows due to a big twist in the tumblehome that the batten is not accommodating well. I may have to try druxey's use of black thread point glued to the sides...
 
Best wishes,
 
Mark

In my more 'recent' experience in the Service, stoppers (and nippers) were only temporary and never left rigged unless when used as sea lashing.  BTW stoppers were used to hold the cable/rope while being transferred or adjusted, not to permanently take the load.  It is possible that some stopper ringbolts may have been utilised but only if the required position was coincidentally co-located.  A stopper needs to take the load inline with the load of the cable/rope being worked, and must therefore be correctly positioned.   
 
There may have been some allowance or tolerance for the dual use of a ringbolt, but I think it may be better practice for dedicated ringbolts for stoppers.  The direction of the eye of the bolt would govern the alignment of the ring, and therefore the ease/ability of working with that ringbolt - if dual purpose, it is very likely the eye direction would have been opposed to one of the 'needs'.
 
That said, the inhaul tackle was used to pull the gun back (out out of battery) and it may not have been so critical to be directly/centrally behind the gun.  For example, if a gun had been aimed using spikes to take it off axis/boresight, the inhaul tackle would no longer be directly inline/behind - thus my argument that it being absolutely central may not be so critical - short answer, it might be possible some ringbolts were dual purpose.  
 
I am sure more knowledgeable people will  provide a better answer.
 
cheers
 
Pat
 
 

Hi Wefalk, stoppers for keeping anchor cables taught on the bits.  I've clarified my question above.

Remember for Caldercraft (unfortunately) their main focus seems to be RC boats, I suspect there is little incentive to them to develop new kit offerings, and to be fair their current range is pretty extensive, though some kites are definitely showing their age now.  I still find it hard to believe that there is not a classic 74 in 1:64 scale, Caldercraft have been advertising this for years and I suspect will never happen.  

Hi Wefalk, stoppers for keeping anchor cables taught on the bits.  I've clarified my question above.

Hoping someone can clarify as I can find nothing in my (admittedly modest) reference materials, looking for late 18th century Royal Navy practice.  Its clear that each gun would have had a ring bolt located behind it to act as a relieving tackle for the gun, and should be mounted in location allowing the bolt to be secured in a deck beam (although models seem to show these perfectly aligned behind the gun in question).  In certain location there would also be a need to for stoppers to keep the anchor cable taught on the bits, I'm assuming similarly mounted.  Given that the stoppers (according at least to Lever) appear to be 'semi-permanent' being formed around a thimble to attach to a bolt, and there is a limited number of locations for the bolts to be installed in beams, the questions below arise:
 
Were stoppers indeed semi-permanent, or would they have been removed between uses Would the same ringbolts have been used for both relieving tackles and stoppers (not sure how they could serve both purposes with a stopper attached) Would ring bolts have been doubled up somehow in locations where both a relieving tackle and a stopper would be needed?  
Many thanks in advance for insight.  Basically, trying to determine the ringbolt arrangement.
 
 

The channels on the port side are now finished but for some touching-up and a final coat of poly.  They were quite time-consuming and I learnt a few things in the process.
 
The channels supplied are made of very  coarse ply, and of a colour inconsistent with the timber I have used for the hull.  I have therefore painted them which to some extent masks the coarseness of the timber which is clearly shown in the following photo.  Fortunately in the flesh, they are not nearly as bad.
 

Here is that channel with knees , dry-fitted.

I have no idea what the following instruction means:  'B in 30mm pendant of Q'.

Here are three channels dry-fitted.  The angles of the chain plates will be determined by temporarily fitting masts and running thread to each chain plate and to the hull.
 


 
 
 
 

Status update .
 
doing the front compartment with chain catch- and drip pan, also lower cabin furniture installed, oven and a a slightly broader ladder not mounted yet...
 
Nils

 
 

detail pan
 

chain- and drip pan, access for cleaning through front bulkhead hatch
 

lockers, shelves and berths, floor in oak planking
 

 
 

Thanks guys.
 
I'm doing better now for the most part, it's just been a very long road. Hope to go back to work in a few weeks.
 
Next up,, Model Shipways Benjamin W. Latham:
 
 
 
 

Finally all of the quarterdeck guns are installed. While working on them I came to the decision to build the quarterdeck bulwark as per kit. Such a heightened bulwark was probably in place by the time Napoleon travelled on her (I'm trying to represent the status she probably had then), I was getting used to those proportions during the work on it and it's sensible to give the crew that additional protection.





quarterdeck guns are in place
 





the captain checks the guns...



 



...and he approves of the additional protection by the heightened bulwarks


 
 
Also 2 more sheave blocks per side were worked into the hull. Next time I'll try to make them before closing the decks...





sheave block for the main sheet




 


sheaves for the fore sheet (left) and the main tack (right)


 

 
In the meantime work on transom and side gallery decoration went on. First I finished the transom but left off the delicate balcony rail. The decorative strips above and below the name were spaced evenly and - as I realised later - a bit too wide apart.

All the decoration parts on transom and side galleries as well as the decoration stripes on the hull and even the colour separating lines are connected to each other. Sometimes by luck it fit as I added part by part and sometimes I had to rework and repaint again and again to match a smooth transition from transom to side gallery to hull.

I started with the parts adjacent to the balcony balustrade and the equivalent parts on the side galleries and worked downwards and upwards. This was a good decision and made all the fitting easier.

Some decorative parts (parts #377 and #434) didn't fit into their place and were left off. Also the side decoration on parts #445 and #446 were filed flat as they seemed too elaborate and somehow didn't fit to the rest of the decoration around the side gallery stern window.

On top of the side galleries cisterns as suggested earlier by paulsutcliffe were installed. Paul, the skipper will ever be grateful for his flushing toilet. Thanks.

I'm quite happy with the appearance of the stern as it is now, with the few colours used and the slightly reduced decoration. I think it looks rather clean and elegant.







transom finished


 

 



part 446 with side palm leaf filed flat



 



part of the decorative strip on the hull was replaced...


 



...to give a better fit with the side gallery decoration


 


 


 the lower ends of the side galleries needed some filling


 





 

the captain likes the decorative work


 

 



...and the cistern for his flushing toilet

First sanding done... now it start to look like a ship!
Thanks Duncbe,  well work is not so busy at the moment so I am making a run for it. Probably slower soon...just difficult to decide what kit to focus on.

2nd layer....
 

Just had some pics of the painted Nelson figure, should arrive tomorrow (not the painted one, though...)

Hello dear colleagues.
I have been looking for a topic for a long time in whom I have not done publications for a long time and it has gone far. However, Chuck Passaro - MSW Admin kindly helped me find the topic. Many thanks to him! Here I publish the finishing photos of the fully-finished model of the imperial yacht Standart. The work that lasted for three years was finished.

Post 7
Moving onto the Garboard Plank
Back in the Boatyard I now invert the hull to start with the Garboard plank.
On this kit with two plank layers it's not really necessary as the purpose of the first planking is to provide a solid and properly shaped hull form onto which the second layer is glued.
However, the second layer will need to be properly planked for good effect so it does no harm to employ some of the techniques on the soon to be hidden first layer.

1169
The position of the Garboard plank at the forward end involves a little bit of best estimation. Because I have no rabbet the plank tapers to a near point at the bow end; I have it just forward of Bulkhead two and aft of the bottom end of the keel slot.

1171
The rest of the plank I have left at full width, but inducing  some twist towards the aft end to allow it to lie flat against the false keel and stern post.
If nothing else, fitting a specific Garboard plank will allow the correct position to be confirmed, and if it's a little out - well it will be covered up.
I also bevelled the plank back edge where it meets the keel, and thinned it down a little on the back face where it runs into the stern post.
Even so, a fair bit of thinning down will be necessary , basically down to nothing, to allow for the second planking.
 
With the Garboard planks in place the adjoining plank is fitted.

1261
This quite a tricky one as there is a  tight lateral curve at the forward end where it goes around the Garboard plank and into the stem slot. There is quite an acute  angle to the plank end.
I then add a third strake also requiring lateral bending at the bow end.

1264
 To achieve the required bends the curve has to be formed at least a third along the length of a strip to get the required purchase. The Lime wood did not lend itself easily to the lateral bending process with breaks occurring at fault lines along the grain.
 I did suffer quite an attrition rate of breaking strips, a problem not experienced with hardwoods such as Box. This resulted in several of the strakes being made up of two planks butt joined.
The final strip of a very irregular shape lies beneath the curve of the hull and was spiled to fit.
Using the provided strip of all one width makes avoiding  stealers almost impossible, but as a first layer  base this is not really an issue.

1270
At the end of the first planking I am left with a pile of off-cuts.
There is sufficient strip to do the job, particularly if you follow the suggested kit method of planking.
 
So here is the completed first planking in all it's rough glory.

1272

1273

1274

1275

1276
The sanding process now begins, there are a few hollows and ridges to sort out before I move on.
Then comes the really interesting bit.
 
B.E.
28/07/2019
 

onwards wirth the fitting out of the cabin furniture....,
willhave to sew some small pillow casess for the births.
With a search on the web I found a brass mini coupling for propshaft to motor, together with the mini fastening screws and an hexogonal Inbus key.
For the floors I still have some 0,8 mm beech ply cut out after the card templates, that will be planked with 1 mm oak planks and pencil caulked
 
Nils

the floor is still the card template here
 

the motor coupling with 3 mm bore is only 13 mm long

To me, there is no con's to double planked hulls except the extra time involved. The pro's of a double planked hull are, you don't have to worry to much about fit and finish on the first layer, just get it laid, smoothed out and fill in any cracks. The second or finished layer of planking shouldn't have putty and all seams need to be tight and have the best fit possible if you want a great looking hull upon completion. That is unless you intend to paint the hull then you can slap putty on until the cows come home. But why would you go through the expense of Holly wood if you intend to paint it, if that is the case, use some cheap wood strips, scrap wood or what ever you can find for the hull planking.
 
 
mike