Beef Wellington

Could not wait and as the lower part of the hull is finished I soked one half with First Layer of the oil! How cool is the colour? I'm living it. The hull before oil was sanded with 400, 600,800 First Layer of oil with 1200 and the second will be with 1500. Will see if I add 3rd....not sure. 
Plus also the restoration of the treenails in the bow and stern section. Turned out better then expected. So happy about the result! 

The Kettenkrad must have just chewed up the decking something rotten, guessing it was used to pull planes and dollies?  Really, a Kubelwagen?  What was that used for, heading into town at night? 🙂

The Kettenkrad must have just chewed up the decking something rotten, guessing it was used to pull planes and dollies?  Really, a Kubelwagen?  What was that used for, heading into town at night? 🙂

Next, part 2 of the build 

Thanks Jason, that was fortunately the intention   I try to learn something from your clean builds!

I have no idea. History was always big trouběmle in the school and I'm not a big fun of research as well . Here I believe guys from MK and quoted what was in instructions. (the big vessels have latrines ať the bow section without roof) 
 
@James H
I hope not. It is some Hard oil and the testing pieces (and the taffrel and bowsprit looks pretty good) matt, like a silk tone and after 2 layers smooth as Hell! 
This is what I have bought. Not a long go and I'll use it to the hull. Pretty excited (and scared) in the same time💣

As you probably know, small ships in 1/72 scale usually omit some detalization. For example the scuppers (if you would like to install them, here are historically accurate specs for cutters of that age: 3-4 pcs, 2.5 inch inner diameter, the middle one is 0.5 inch wider; the big syringe needle has adequate size for that)
As for the latrines, we are practicslly sure that no pipes were present. One of them was definitly used as a storage cabinet (only 16 ppl as a crew!!!). The other MAY be used as a toilet, but it depends on the captain's will.

Hi all,
 
Well finally been able to get some things done that tangibly move things forward.  The area around the mainmast is one of the more interesting and complex areas to get situated.  All of these items were scratchbuilt, which of course resulted in the usual re-does as the geometry is critical to get right as the pump axel and cranks need to align with minimal tolerances.
 
Capstan and aft coamings now glued into position, the deck beam needs to be modified to allow the capstan to be positioned appropriately.

 
Little bit of rework on the pumps, the simulated leather washer I had previously painted kept jumping out at me and was a little too 'in your face'.  Stripped this off and went with what seems to be a more traditional modeling approach to use layer of wood to simulate the gasket and plug. Here they are in final position.

 
The main jeer bitts were then positioned first once the pumps were in place to finalise the dimensions of the middle pump brakes.  The kit supplies some PE for these, but knew that these would never be satisfactory and have been planning to make my own.  The supplied wire is around 0.8mm, so 1mm square styrene sections were drilled and cut to give a little more of an authentic look to the winches.  To say this process is delicate and frustrating is an understatement - once drilled, the there is barely any structural strength to the styrene around the hole.  The aft winches were made in one piece which allowed them to be aligned relatively easily and secured using thin CA which worked quite well.  Once glued, the styrene was then gently filed to give a hint of the actual shape.

 
Rhodings were made out of boxwood and painted, to my eye this gave a little better scale look.  The stanchions had been made previously, and notches cut into the deck beam to allow these to be secured.

 
The stanchions were finalized and installed...making the second curved bracing element to be the same as the first took a lot longer than expected.

 
The layout of the main topsail sheet bitts dictates that the winches need to made separately reflecting actual practice.  These longer winches proved much more challenging than the shorter ones, and many were attempted before 2 acceptable ones were completed.

 
Elm tree pumps were shaped from boxwood stock, and the PE fittings came from an extra set I found left over from my Snake build.  These were fun items to make up, but will not be finally fixed just yet as they are very delicate.

 
Overall shots with everything in place shows just how crowed this area really is.  Overall, very happy with how this ultimately turned out.  The main topsheet bitts align underneath the deck beam at the forward end of the quarterdeck.

 
Overlaying scaled copy from AOTS, one can get a good sense for the reason for the scuttles in the quarterdeck which would have been necessary to be able to remove the various pump shafts.  I'm considering modding the quarterdeck to allow these scuttles to be left open to allow the pump mechanisms to be better seen.

 

Carl - those louvres look so much better...

Carl - those louvres look so much better...

Carl - those louvres look so much better...

Thanks Pat, Carl, Kevin, Jean-Paul and 'the likes' for not forgetting me! 
 
Update on a modification made right back at the start of the build.  I had initially planned to add a bowsprit step to achieve 2 things: a little more 'interest' on for the upper deck for those peeking through gun ports and a more robust engineering solution to the attachment of the bowsprit.  Both of these are still valid, but a third reason has also just become apparent to make me very glad I decided to mod this.  Bottom line, I can't quite see myself moving forward and rigging 'Jason' at this point, which would still be a long way off if past progress is any indication.  However, I would like to leave that option open for the future, and this allows me keep moving forward without making any sort of final decision.
 
Some angled 'wedges' were added to the first deck frame to match the angle of the bowsprit step which was then glued into place.  A pin was then inserted at the center position of the bowsprit position.  Maybe went overboard on securing this, but don' think you can be too careful, it was pinned at the bottom, PVA glue secured to the beam, and then pinned into the beam.  While positioning all this it was important to keep checking the clearance over the figurehead, I'd worked through this already when making the original modification and luckily no further complications arose.
 

 
A hole can then simply be drilled into the end of the bowsprit, and once the aft end is appropriately angled, this sits very snuggly and securely even without glue.  The benefit is that this is removable and replaceable even with the fo'c'sl deck in place.  I've made up a 'stub' that will probably be used for now, and also a dowel that can be made into a bowsprit should I also go in that direction.  The fore bits are also now glued in position with a few other details which will likely be lost when the fo'c'sl goes on, but its fun to experiment.
 
In other news, there was some months ago an addition to the Wellington family, her name is Mazie, and shes a loveable 14 week old 'Whoodle' (Wheaton terrier/poodle mix).  While she has many particular skills, dockyard assistance is not currently one of them...

The swivel guns are now finished.  Again it's a rather fiddly job.  I found the following method worked well.
 
First, drill a nail-diameter hole in a piece of scrap, insert a dome-headed nail into the gun bracket and glue while the assembly is in the hole.  This makes the bracket and the nail at right angles to each other.

Next, bend the bracket sides up and thread a nail through the bracket holes and the holes provided in the gun (easier said ....).  Of course the dome headed nails do not fit in the holes provided in the guns, so the guns need to be drilled out - or if you have some thinner nails as I did, you are indeed fortunate.  The brackets shown here are obviously bowed.  To fix this, apply pressure on each side of the bracket with a pair of tweezers and to further straighten and make them vertical, hold the assembly down (I used a sturdy pin) and pull the whole assembly up by the nails insert through the bracket holes and gun.  All of this was done while the whole lot was located on the hole drilled into the timber scrap.
 

The nail in the following photo had not been cut off - but here is the result.

The two little Roman soldiers decorating the quarter have large bases which are quite different to the figures shown in the Anatomy of a Ship.  I have taken off almost all the base and will try to mount the figures more closely to that shown in the Anatomy.
 
The figures need touching up, but most of what appears as lack of paint is dust.
 

 
 

More

A wonderful piece of work Joe. Hope everything is improving health wise. I know the feeling- - been there, done that.
 
Bob

Hello again.
As others have noticed, one problem with the Pontos conversion set is that the suggested model - the Tamiya Prince of Wales - has completely the wrong bridge layout. In my case, it seemed the best course was to adapt it to match the KGV kit part which I have to hand. This is the same as the 1943 DoY. Why the Pontos kit does not suggest the KGV kit is a mystery - unless it is because there is no small Walrus. But adding a resin one would not, one assumes, be a stretch.
Here you can see the extended watch postions aft of the HACS director tower.

Below you can see the deck extensions that lead to ladders which descend to the hangar deck, just abeam of forward engine room vent. You can also see the consequences of the IWM 'mirror image' problem. Because there was apparently one of these drum shaped things visible on the apparent port side I assumed there was one on both sides. It took me a while to figure out why this feature appeared in no other picture!!

Some other alterations. In particular, the ADO has rather elaborate instrument panels with splinter shields on both sides of the deck. I made these out of brass sheet and added some p.e. bits and bobs to look more 'technical'.
 
Also, contra the kit, the search light platform is flush with the sides and has prominent railings. Out of habit, I drilled out the windows of bridge and the admiral's bridge below and put in some clear styrene sheet. So, from the right angle you can see right through. Also note the very visible antenna mount just forward of where there used to be a rangefinder postion, seemingly deleted by this point in time, and the revised bridge wing lay-out
 

More alterations: there is a prominent vent and a hatch which comes up from below. Also the oerlikon stations are not as seen in any plan. Bascially, there were three per side with a 'three bears' type situation. One had a whole tub, the next had the semi-circualr step plate only and the third had nothing at all.
The nav lights are much larger than those on the kit. There are both ordinary and, below that, dim lights for tactical situations. Mine are illuminated by optic fibre. Notice also the prominent down pipe thing on the superstructure sides. This is a simplification of the real thing.

Below is some of the work on the director tower. Atop this is a small structure with a tub on top which remains of uncertain purpose - at least as far as I am concerned - up to the present. Perhaps someone here knows? Anyhow, this is a much more complex structure than the Pontos kit makes out and has two prominent trangular shaped gusset plates supporting it and what looks a bit like a hot water tank just underneath. These ships were no place for anyone with a fear of heights.
 
ALO, ADO binocular mounts etc by North Star. Incidentally, I would recomend using local sellers, like Starling shop or Soveriegn Hobbies in the UK, to get their stuff rather than approach them directly. North Star themselves did not accurately or entirely complete my order and replied to precisely no emails.

 
Next up doors, more doors and small guns.

This kit really looks like a gem and you are doing such a beautiful job building her.  Love the colours, and the crispness of your work is exceptional.

This kit really looks like a gem and you are doing such a beautiful job building her.  Love the colours, and the crispness of your work is exceptional.

Glueing things together. I have finished the planking of the latrines so now it is time to glue the taffrel and counter to the hull. I have also glued and smoothend the stem, keel, false keel and stern-post. 

Not much to show, but for the replaced louvres at the rear of the forward superstructure. Hope to get some building time this weekend
 

Worked on the hull from the H class Tribal destroyer mainly
Removed the plastic on the centre "super" structure,there are air inlets too. Attacked those from the inside. Also a bit of brass work to get my eyes "in the mood" the foremast, lower part

 

Thanks Pat, Carl, Kevin, Jean-Paul and 'the likes' for not forgetting me! 
 
Update on a modification made right back at the start of the build.  I had initially planned to add a bowsprit step to achieve 2 things: a little more 'interest' on for the upper deck for those peeking through gun ports and a more robust engineering solution to the attachment of the bowsprit.  Both of these are still valid, but a third reason has also just become apparent to make me very glad I decided to mod this.  Bottom line, I can't quite see myself moving forward and rigging 'Jason' at this point, which would still be a long way off if past progress is any indication.  However, I would like to leave that option open for the future, and this allows me keep moving forward without making any sort of final decision.
 
Some angled 'wedges' were added to the first deck frame to match the angle of the bowsprit step which was then glued into place.  A pin was then inserted at the center position of the bowsprit position.  Maybe went overboard on securing this, but don' think you can be too careful, it was pinned at the bottom, PVA glue secured to the beam, and then pinned into the beam.  While positioning all this it was important to keep checking the clearance over the figurehead, I'd worked through this already when making the original modification and luckily no further complications arose.
 

 
A hole can then simply be drilled into the end of the bowsprit, and once the aft end is appropriately angled, this sits very snuggly and securely even without glue.  The benefit is that this is removable and replaceable even with the fo'c'sl deck in place.  I've made up a 'stub' that will probably be used for now, and also a dowel that can be made into a bowsprit should I also go in that direction.  The fore bits are also now glued in position with a few other details which will likely be lost when the fo'c'sl goes on, but its fun to experiment.
 
In other news, there was some months ago an addition to the Wellington family, her name is Mazie, and shes a loveable 14 week old 'Whoodle' (Wheaton terrier/poodle mix).  While she has many particular skills, dockyard assistance is not currently one of them...

Thanks Pat, Carl, Kevin, Jean-Paul and 'the likes' for not forgetting me! 
 
Update on a modification made right back at the start of the build.  I had initially planned to add a bowsprit step to achieve 2 things: a little more 'interest' on for the upper deck for those peeking through gun ports and a more robust engineering solution to the attachment of the bowsprit.  Both of these are still valid, but a third reason has also just become apparent to make me very glad I decided to mod this.  Bottom line, I can't quite see myself moving forward and rigging 'Jason' at this point, which would still be a long way off if past progress is any indication.  However, I would like to leave that option open for the future, and this allows me keep moving forward without making any sort of final decision.
 
Some angled 'wedges' were added to the first deck frame to match the angle of the bowsprit step which was then glued into place.  A pin was then inserted at the center position of the bowsprit position.  Maybe went overboard on securing this, but don' think you can be too careful, it was pinned at the bottom, PVA glue secured to the beam, and then pinned into the beam.  While positioning all this it was important to keep checking the clearance over the figurehead, I'd worked through this already when making the original modification and luckily no further complications arose.
 

 
A hole can then simply be drilled into the end of the bowsprit, and once the aft end is appropriately angled, this sits very snuggly and securely even without glue.  The benefit is that this is removable and replaceable even with the fo'c'sl deck in place.  I've made up a 'stub' that will probably be used for now, and also a dowel that can be made into a bowsprit should I also go in that direction.  The fore bits are also now glued in position with a few other details which will likely be lost when the fo'c'sl goes on, but its fun to experiment.
 
In other news, there was some months ago an addition to the Wellington family, her name is Mazie, and shes a loveable 14 week old 'Whoodle' (Wheaton terrier/poodle mix).  While she has many particular skills, dockyard assistance is not currently one of them...

Welcome to the build Jason,
glad to have you on board, and many thanks for looking in and catching up.
Little Caspar is doing so well, one can see the improvement and also the growth from week to week (yesterday 10 weeks, since birth). He is still "leaking" a bit, but also that will be soon overcome...
 
Nils
 

Thanks Pat, Carl, Kevin, Jean-Paul and 'the likes' for not forgetting me! 
 
Update on a modification made right back at the start of the build.  I had initially planned to add a bowsprit step to achieve 2 things: a little more 'interest' on for the upper deck for those peeking through gun ports and a more robust engineering solution to the attachment of the bowsprit.  Both of these are still valid, but a third reason has also just become apparent to make me very glad I decided to mod this.  Bottom line, I can't quite see myself moving forward and rigging 'Jason' at this point, which would still be a long way off if past progress is any indication.  However, I would like to leave that option open for the future, and this allows me keep moving forward without making any sort of final decision.
 
Some angled 'wedges' were added to the first deck frame to match the angle of the bowsprit step which was then glued into place.  A pin was then inserted at the center position of the bowsprit position.  Maybe went overboard on securing this, but don' think you can be too careful, it was pinned at the bottom, PVA glue secured to the beam, and then pinned into the beam.  While positioning all this it was important to keep checking the clearance over the figurehead, I'd worked through this already when making the original modification and luckily no further complications arose.
 

 
A hole can then simply be drilled into the end of the bowsprit, and once the aft end is appropriately angled, this sits very snuggly and securely even without glue.  The benefit is that this is removable and replaceable even with the fo'c'sl deck in place.  I've made up a 'stub' that will probably be used for now, and also a dowel that can be made into a bowsprit should I also go in that direction.  The fore bits are also now glued in position with a few other details which will likely be lost when the fo'c'sl goes on, but its fun to experiment.
 
In other news, there was some months ago an addition to the Wellington family, her name is Mazie, and shes a loveable 14 week old 'Whoodle' (Wheaton terrier/poodle mix).  While she has many particular skills, dockyard assistance is not currently one of them...