Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Well, there is always a room for improvement. For example a pipe with a protective cone (or just a cone) instead of holes, so water would not pour in. Something like that:
  2. If the word "contemporary" describes the models, made in our age, then you probably know, that they have numerous historical mistakes. From both reasons: 1) people who built them do not care about historical accuracy or just had not dug deep enough 2) the more we live, the more information comes through research - so the info may be not available by the time they have built their models. I have met it several times on ships from Russian fleet - models built in 60-80s made by great modelists are great, but some recent archive discoveries tell us, that they are historically incorrect in several places. P.S. I can send you more of our blocks, if you have not enough
  3. Dirk, I may be wrong, but the passing of the outhauler through the bulwark hole seems to be wrong: you cannot just bend the rope by 90 degrees and ground it on plain wood, the rope will wear-off, or the hole will be deformed within little time. On Avos it is solved by using the roller, on Alert ... well, the monography by Goodwin outmanuvers that matter, but it looks like they just fasten the rope on the bitt on the bulwark rail.
  4. Please pay attention, that the first variant was done in a way, mirrored from the one, presented in the drawings. You fastened the standing end not very close to the hilt. So obviously the fastening points on the bulwark have to be moved in this case. If done according to the drawings, no moving is required. Especially because the rudder rotation angle is not that great.
  5. Speaking of the stern. Are you sure that the transom was without the fashion piece (aftermost timber)? Although it may be too early for it - but approximately since the beginning of the 19th centurey smaller ships usually had fashion-pieced transom. See Cheerful for example.
  6. Have read the whole topic from the start. Still do not understand what all fuss is all about. The Chapman's description reads "3-pounder swivel guns". Great! The swivels/falconets had all kinds of light carriages (most common metal fork-like), never seen the one Chapman had drawn anywhere else, but since it is Chapman, maybe they were in use. OR they were of his design. Does not matter. What matters is that the swivels were up to 3 pounds, no more. Obviously because of recoil reasons. Now let's look at the model in the beginning of the topic. 3 pounders? I may be wrong, but they strongly seem like 6-8 pounders to me.
  7. @Peta_V , the cleats you are referring to are not used. Currently the inner ladder is intended to be installed in that place. You can either install the cleats (there are ALWAYS some not-used fastening places on the ships, for situational use) and find another place for the ladders, or just ignore them and place the ladders onto that spots.
  8. After final consideration, here is the conclusion: the holes for the anchor rope holding eyebolts are OK, the photo instruction lacks the images of the eyebolts installed. I shall fix it soon. The number of eyebolts 18 is more than enough (at least 4 spare), so just install the pair and use as intended.
  9. Thank you very much for pointing at these holes. Yes, they were previously designed for holding the anchor cable, but currently they are not used. I think the best decision is to make the wooden plugs from the remains of the deck holding plate and shut these holes down. Obviously you can use them as intended, but you will have to count the eyebols first - maybe you should make your own, I cannot say now, there are different versions of photo etched plates, some of them contain spare eyebolts, some have just what needed. Btw, the kit is out for about 8 months now, but noone has pointed us at this yet!
  10. The cannons have recoil, as you correctly mentioned. By looking at these stools I can have only one conclusion: they will drop on shooter's leg after one shot. So my opinion is definite: these carriage designs are definitely a spawn of someone's brain slug.
  11. 1) Calculate the final planking thickness depending on your scale. That should be done because some stern types require the butts of the planks to be shown at the aft area. If nothing is to be seen, use veneer (0.5 - 0.6 mm, not thicker) for the final planking. So the shape of the hull will not be far from the 1-planked one. 2) Bulwark thickness. MAYBE the draft planking should be a little sanded down to achieve the proper bulwark thickness with the final planking. 3) The gun/oar ports. Think ahead about them and their shape (maybe the inner part should be smaller than the covered with final planking to imitate gun port lids cut-in). 4) The transition from the copper are to the wooden area. Also think ahead about the thickness there, especially if you are gonna paint the copper part. 5) Final thickness on the keel - but here may be ok, since there is a copper plating. 6) The taffrel area, if there are some pre-cut by the kit designer ornaments/elements etc. If they are meant to fit - the should fit. If not, sand down the draft planking. Well, that is all I can think about now. Maybe someone will add more. Anyway, the use of the second planking is usualy more than welcome by a beginner, because it allows the errors to be corrected easily.
  12. Hi Christa. You can also consider one of Master-Korabel kits. For example here: https://craftysailor.com/collections/model-ship-kits Very detailed photo instructions and special construction make them easier to build than most of the other ones.
  13. Actually I find it hard to belive. A large company with an old trademark disappearing without a trace. Maybe there is a simplier explanation - like their head office is finally moving to China?
  14. As you probably know, small ships in 1/72 scale usually omit some detalization. For example the scuppers (if you would like to install them, here are historically accurate specs for cutters of that age: 3-4 pcs, 2.5 inch inner diameter, the middle one is 0.5 inch wider; the big syringe needle has adequate size for that) As for the latrines, we are practicslly sure that no pipes were present. One of them was definitly used as a storage cabinet (only 16 ppl as a crew!!!). The other MAY be used as a toilet, but it depends on the captain's will.
  15. Yes, cut the circle with a thin sharp knife and put it into the eyebolt. Glue or solder afterwards.

About us

Modelshipworld - Advancing Ship Modeling through Research

SSL Secured

Your security is important for us so this Website is SSL-Secured

NRG Mailing Address

Nautical Research Guild
237 South Lincoln Street
Westmont IL, 60559-1917

About the NRG

If you enjoy building ship models that are historically accurate as well as beautiful, then The Nautical Research Guild (NRG) is just right for you.

The Guild is a non-profit educational organization whose mission is to “Advance Ship Modeling Through Research”. We provide support to our members in their efforts to raise the quality of their model ships.

The Nautical Research Guild has published our world-renowned quarterly magazine, The Nautical Research Journal, since 1955. The pages of the Journal are full of articles by accomplished ship modelers who show you how they create those exquisite details on their models, and by maritime historians who show you the correct details to build. The Journal is available in both print and digital editions. Go to the NRG web site (www.thenrg.org) to download a complimentary digital copy of the Journal. The NRG also publishes plan sets, books and compilations of back issues of the Journal and the former Ships in Scale and Model Ship Builder magazines.

Our Emblem

Modelshipworld - Advancing Ship Modeling through Research
  • Create New...