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  1. Speaking of the stern. Are you sure that the transom was without the fashion piece (aftermost timber)? Although it may be too early for it - but approximately since the beginning of the 19th centurey smaller ships usually had fashion-pieced transom. See Cheerful for example.
  2. Have read the whole topic from the start. Still do not understand what all fuss is all about. The Chapman's description reads "3-pounder swivel guns". Great! The swivels/falconets had all kinds of light carriages (most common metal fork-like), never seen the one Chapman had drawn anywhere else, but since it is Chapman, maybe they were in use. OR they were of his design. Does not matter. What matters is that the swivels were up to 3 pounds, no more. Obviously because of recoil reasons. Now let's look at the model in the beginning of the topic. 3 pounders? I may be wrong, but they strongly seem like 6-8 pounders to me.
  3. @Peta_V , the cleats you are referring to are not used. Currently the inner ladder is intended to be installed in that place. You can either install the cleats (there are ALWAYS some not-used fastening places on the ships, for situational use) and find another place for the ladders, or just ignore them and place the ladders onto that spots.
  4. After final consideration, here is the conclusion: the holes for the anchor rope holding eyebolts are OK, the photo instruction lacks the images of the eyebolts installed. I shall fix it soon. The number of eyebolts 18 is more than enough (at least 4 spare), so just install the pair and use as intended.
  5. Thank you very much for pointing at these holes. Yes, they were previously designed for holding the anchor cable, but currently they are not used. I think the best decision is to make the wooden plugs from the remains of the deck holding plate and shut these holes down. Obviously you can use them as intended, but you will have to count the eyebols first - maybe you should make your own, I cannot say now, there are different versions of photo etched plates, some of them contain spare eyebolts, some have just what needed. Btw, the kit is out for about 8 months now, but noone has pointed us at this yet!
  6. The cannons have recoil, as you correctly mentioned. By looking at these stools I can have only one conclusion: they will drop on shooter's leg after one shot. So my opinion is definite: these carriage designs are definitely a spawn of someone's brain slug.
  7. 1) Calculate the final planking thickness depending on your scale. That should be done because some stern types require the butts of the planks to be shown at the aft area. If nothing is to be seen, use veneer (0.5 - 0.6 mm, not thicker) for the final planking. So the shape of the hull will not be far from the 1-planked one. 2) Bulwark thickness. MAYBE the draft planking should be a little sanded down to achieve the proper bulwark thickness with the final planking. 3) The gun/oar ports. Think ahead about them and their shape (maybe the inner part should be smaller than the covered with final planking to imitate gun port lids cut-in). 4) The transition from the copper are to the wooden area. Also think ahead about the thickness there, especially if you are gonna paint the copper part. 5) Final thickness on the keel - but here may be ok, since there is a copper plating. 6) The taffrel area, if there are some pre-cut by the kit designer ornaments/elements etc. If they are meant to fit - the should fit. If not, sand down the draft planking. Well, that is all I can think about now. Maybe someone will add more. Anyway, the use of the second planking is usualy more than welcome by a beginner, because it allows the errors to be corrected easily.
  8. Hi Christa. You can also consider one of Master-Korabel kits. For example here: https://craftysailor.com/collections/model-ship-kits Very detailed photo instructions and special construction make them easier to build than most of the other ones.
  9. Actually I find it hard to belive. A large company with an old trademark disappearing without a trace. Maybe there is a simplier explanation - like their head office is finally moving to China?
  10. As you probably know, small ships in 1/72 scale usually omit some detalization. For example the scuppers (if you would like to install them, here are historically accurate specs for cutters of that age: 3-4 pcs, 2.5 inch inner diameter, the middle one is 0.5 inch wider; the big syringe needle has adequate size for that) As for the latrines, we are practicslly sure that no pipes were present. One of them was definitly used as a storage cabinet (only 16 ppl as a crew!!!). The other MAY be used as a toilet, but it depends on the captain's will.
  11. Yes, cut the circle with a thin sharp knife and put it into the eyebolt. Glue or solder afterwards.
  12. About the ports. From the technical point of view everything is quite correct: on real ships planking is done from one type of wood; frames and inner structure from the other (for example pine for planks, oak for frames). And the frames and planks' butts are seen in the ports, as it should be. Personally I see no reason replacing the frames' color with the same color as planking, as they should be different. If you do not like the plywood color it is better to paint or treat it to change the color. Also, as an option, the whole port can be painted. It is up to the builder. I would like to mention, that this is not a very easy ship to build, especially compared to other our kits. @Peta_V is doing good job, it is not easy to follow his quality of the build, it just seems very easy. For example some people have troubles aligning the top-timbers following the ports on finishing planking. And if we cut that top-timbers and replace parts of them with other material, it will complicate things even more. So please be careful with what you are doing and think ahead!
  13. To restore the nails, you can use a hollow needle from a medical syringe of adequate size. Just make its end flat.
  14. I have a feeling that the whole inner planking went a little too high. Could you please check the size of the gap between the planking and the deck? It should be completely covered by the waterways (1.5 mm thick). If the gap is too large (hope it is ok), I think the easiest way is to raise the edges of the deck in proper places a little.
  15. Thank you very much, you are quite right. It is a misprint: should be A59. Yes, the text is up to date. The photo instruction is better to be used downloaded from the site (it has more explanations and several small numbers corrections, although nothing critical if being careful).

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