Beef Wellington

Thank you all for your kind feedback on my work.   

Keith, in order to protect myself from mistakes on the model, I try to always conduct an experiment with the material.
This black paper passed the exam!  

Outboard gangway.

Post 5
That fairing business.
With the underside of the deck strengthened I can now proceed to fairing the bulkheads.
This is one of my least favourite ship modelling jobs, and I never seem to achieve full satisfaction with my efforts. It is however so important as a basis to get the subsequent planking right.
These are fairly thin bulkheads so a reasonably gentle approach is required, no bashing away with a coarse sanding stick. These are a fraction of the size of the Cheerful bulkheads and there are less of them.
I did wonder if an additional bulkhead might have been appropriate between bulkheads 4 and 5 just forward of the mast hole. I may resort to filling this area along with bow and stern fillers.
The first plank of 1.5mm x 5mm lime-wood runs along 4mm below the tops of the bulkhead extensions.

578
In practice this is quite a tricky plank to fit; it needs to be both edge bent to follow the sheer, and have a curve at the bow end to fit into the rabbet slot.

583(2)
This first planking is quite substantial and I used water and heat to induce the necessary shape.
The induced curve for the bow rabbet is particularly necessary due to the inherent weakness of the stem piece, specifically at the top end of the rabbet /slot. Failure to take sufficient spring out of the bend around the bow will stress the stem and any flex may result in a  split along the horizontal grain of the 3mm wood.

581
To counter this I added 0.5mm Boxwood strips to the inner sides of the stem above the deck.
 In my view it would have been better if the stem slot were a true rabbet, or the stem made of better quality timber, but kits have compromises. On reflection I should have re-cut the stem out of Boxwood sheet.

582
With the plank pre- shaped  pegs are sufficient to hold it against the bulkhead, only one pin required at the aft end.

595
Attaching the Port side upper strake.
A strip of wood is inserted between the plank and the stem in the slot to hold it hard against the after edge while the glue dries. It also protects the slot for the second planking.
The second strake below also requires the heat and water treatment to take the stress out of the bow curve and sheer. Pinning as well as glue are necessary for this strake.
During fitting, as feared, the stem did give way along the grain line on the inboard  side at the top of the slot.

606(2)
I re-glued it but now a clamp is attached to hold it in position during strake fitting.

604(2)

611(2)
I did not taper these first strakes.

605(2)
With the first two strakes in place the hull is now quite rigid, but be careful with that stem piece folks.
 
B.E.
02/07/2019
 

Great to see you making progress again, very nice rigging and attention to detail.  Love the anchor buoy, you really captured the feel of the real thing.

Great to see you making progress again, very nice rigging and attention to detail.  Love the anchor buoy, you really captured the feel of the real thing.

Great to see you making progress again, very nice rigging and attention to detail.  Love the anchor buoy, you really captured the feel of the real thing.

Fantastic metalwork Pat, pleasure to catch up on all the great progress, the small details are the 'fun' things but make the model IMHO.  Would love to have your abilities here!

Hi,
I took a break from the boring tying ratlines and I made a trial for a buoy... Imitation of the rigging came from the last picture.

Fantastic metalwork Pat, pleasure to catch up on all the great progress, the small details are the 'fun' things but make the model IMHO.  Would love to have your abilities here!

Fantastic metalwork Pat, pleasure to catch up on all the great progress, the small details are the 'fun' things but make the model IMHO.  Would love to have your abilities here!

Nice recovery and good work with the false timbers. When you plank the bulwarks, consider if you want to add scuppers. These are best cut (actually better to file the scuppers) before setting the planks. I used a single plank with the scuppers cut in the bottom for the fore deck and on top for the quarter deck. I found this technique on another Bluenose build log (don't remember who) and it worked well for me. Here is a photo of my scuppers.
You will have the advantage of being able to mark the actual timber locations (hey your mistake may pay off).
 
Dave B

Fantastic metalwork Pat, pleasure to catch up on all the great progress, the small details are the 'fun' things but make the model IMHO.  Would love to have your abilities here!

Thanks Dave; appreciate your comments.
 
Some further small updates; I think the photos show all.  First is the completed (minus firehose/rack) of the Downton Pump area; then the foredeck with chain blackened, and the funnel with its stay chains and finally the painted purchase winches.
 
      
 
cheers
 
Pat
 
 

Hi again folks, another small update with some additional detail to show.
 
I have now added the capstan, Elliott bitts and cable compressor after checking to be sure there was sufficient room for the bars to be fitted and turned.    The men would have had to peel off and regain a vacant bar in places though as even with the space available it was pretty tight.  The cable has yet to be blackened and fitted properly.  At least the contrast shows how it was put onto the capstan. 
      
These are 3D parts we had printed but I had to replace the control levers as the parts are so small they broke too easily.  I have not included a ruler but for an idea the levers were only 9mm long and less than 1 mm wide.

I have also dry fitted the stoke hole skylight/ventilator with the funnel fitted and hammocks in situ.  I will add the chain tie-downs before gluing it into place.  The other shots provide some idea of the deck layout and fittings now added.
 
I have also had a chance to adapt one of the winches to better show the worm drive - still a good clean required as you can see all the filing dust.

cheers
 
Pat

Good day/evening/morning all,    well I have some good news followed by some bad,   I decided to have another bash on the pearl,   I had packed some of my tools away - so they had to be  put back on the banch (table), so I  blew off some dust (lots)  and settled down to pick up where I left off  as my hands have improved somewhat,   but I now have a new handicap  to bring to the table  -  yep  irritating  hay fever,    not so much the whole shooting match  but mainly  I can see a flipping thing due to running eyes that are now inflammed and swollen.
I take antihistermine  tabs for it  but the pollen count is especially high at the moment.
 
So I made a concious decession  -  I will put the pearl away till the autumn/winter.
 
Back to a tidy lounge table  with  part finished pearl  sitting on the  dresser  - till next time.
 
Sincerely  and warmly  thank you to all who take the time to read my  words  (not the best sometimes)  and also thos who press the like  thingy - ma - dingy.    I will be back on here   - Promise.
 
OC.

Finished up the 3 guns at the starboard bow, the pin racks and also installed some cleats. There were no cleats included with the kit for some reason. The ones I used are some I bought from model expo a few years ago. I'm going to jump over to my medway longboat for a bit and then work on the port side bow guns.
 

The belaying pin racks have to be scratch built as once again there aren't any parts in the kit. I put little metal pins in the racks to help secure them to the model. I was worried that they would fall off.

Copper sheathed bottoms are not my favourite!  Starb’d side finished to the waterline. Guys, I know you like photos but really, watching paint dry would be far more exciting! These were taken around the halfway stage. Nothing special, just repetition. I’m thinking of breaking and repainting the side before starting the Port side, then moving onto the keel.

Been a little absent, but very enjoyable to catch up on your wonderful progress Rob, must feel good to have the upper deck on and planked.  How did you actually taper the planks to the right shape (sanding, cutting,...?) - you achieved a very nice curve.
 
Will certainly be picking your brains going forward.  The headwork are honestly a head scratcher to me and I've been mulling that over for many months as I think many parts will need to be scratched to get a pleasing look.  As you point out, the kit supplied parts are not the right shape, and the ply is just horrible quality (at least mine were).  I'm trying to decide whether the grating s should be a series of flat sections, or one continuous curve as I've seen on some models, the latter obviously being rather more challenging.

Post 4
Thinking about the deck
My preference is to make several outline templates drawn onto card sheet. These will be used to mark out the planking pattern and use as a template to form the margin plank.
The first thing to decide is the position of the deck beams.  For this I have used the Goodwin book, and my main concern is not to have a butt ending up at an incorrect point such as  mid way along the main hatchway where a main beam would in practice not be.
I will be using a three butt shift  with scale planks around 20' with shifts of around 5'+. Each plank within these constraints will of necessity have minor adjustments to take account of the closest appropriate beam.
Using standard repeated one length planks would result in the butts appearing at unlikely places.
If you're not over fussed by such considerations you can't go far wrong using the Deck planking article by Ulises Victoria in the MSW database, which I used albeit in a modified form.
I start with planks each side of the centre line, and planks wholly within the spaces between the deck encumbrances will have no butts as the lengths are within the maximum.

484
After some trial and error I eventually got a pattern I was happy with and this was transferred to the false deck.

489
At this point I also rough cut the margin planks using Boxwood sheet.
Once the false deck is in place I don't think it will be easy to remove. It is fairly flimsy (of necessity) and  there are notches on the bulkheads which will lock it into place.

490
Having said that, handled carefully it fit quite easily, the hardest part is applying pva over the whole framing, and setting the deck before it started to dry.
Handy to have a good supply of weights available.

494
The deck edges may be a little vulnerable to breakage during the fairing process so I think I will beef the underside up a little with strip wood.
 
The final addition in this section is the Platform deck over the rudder housing at the counter.

525
This slotted easily into place and does provide some support for those delicate stern frames.

532
The facing panels fit neatly into the frame slots.

531(2)
Temporary support blocks are inserted between the stern frames.

529(2)
This completes the initial assembly stage, mostly painless, but watch out for those stern frames.
 
B.E.
29/06/2019
 

Hi Jim
I'm facing a problem regarding gaff boom rigging (especially topping lift and its attachments).
When you'll find your time please take a look at my build pages..
Did you place eyelets on the deck around the mizzen mast to fix the tackle of the boom topping lift or did you go as Petersson p.26 plan to the mizzen channels?
Thank you. 

But for a couple of coats of polyurethane, and some minor touching-up, the catheads are now finished and installed.  The head rails have been made, but final adjustments will be needed before installation.  Whether all the trouble has been worth it, will only be known when they are finished off and installed.
 
Here is progress.  I hope the whole thing will be done over the weekend if all goes well.
 

 

Both head rails were positioned by eyelets fitted into the deck.  They were removed once the glue was dry, and the holes will be touched-up

 
 
 

Finished the headrails  and glad to see the end of them.  As usual they need a couple of coast of poly and a bit of touching up, but they have come out acceptably.  They are not historically accurate according to the Anatomy but then neither is the kit.  A a small tip: I made one of the supports a tiny fraction too short, which made a difference to its positioning.  Making another one didn't bear thinking about.  I therefore glued a sliver of balsa to its top.  The balsa is soft enough to 'give', so that the support could be nuggly fitted into the correct spot.
 


 
 A minor adjustment has been made to the left support in the following photo after the photo was taken.  (Again: why the underline?)
 
 

The covers for the sweep ports are now done on one side.  It's a very awkward little job.  I decided to have just one cover open as an illustration - and I see from the photo it needs a little adjustment and the usual touch-up.