Beef Wellington

Also started working ln the carronades for the upper decks

 

Greetings to all.
My name is Tomek. For some time I have been working on my next card sail ship the British cutter HMS "Fly". I build my models only from paper and cardboard without painting (of course masts and rigging are made of wood and thread). I will honestly admit that "Fly" is my 20 cardboard model of a sailing ship so it looks much better than my first models from 15 years ago.
The "step by step" how I design and build card sailing ships...
1. Frames made of 1mm card. The model is really small (about 16 cm long)
2. The first layer to strengthen and stabilize the hull 
3. The second layer made of 0,5 mm card. The glue is applied only in places where the edges of the frame are located . Thanks to this the hull gets soft curves without visible "cow's ribs" ... 
4. Attaching the third final layer on a well-prepared hull is a pleasure. 
5. The deck equipment and artillery
 
6. The current stage - the mast and the bowsprit with standing rigging
 
Regards
Tomek

The sail/mast may have been an experiment of sorts or a proposed method.   At least on French ships, they did try certain things that may or may not have been used later.  For example, Licorne's masting at the time of capture wasn't the "as built", nor the same as the 12 pounder frigates.  It was the same (or darn close) to that of Le Venus.   

For the netting that goes on the Bowsprit horses and battens I decided to make a jig and pre-rig most of it off ship to make it easier to tie on after. I tied two threads to four wire pegs spaced the same as the Bowsprit horse lines. I laid a piece of netting down over them and carefully glued the it to the threads where the overlaid. I glued the battens down onto all of this (pre-measuring the spacing). When that dried I used a curved sewing needle to help me thread and tie the edges. Removed it all from the jig and trimmed the edges. This made it much easier to tie the netting to the horses.
 
I used G-S Hypo Cement made for gluing watch crystals to glue these tiny spots. It has a very tiny needle applicator end that works very well for tiny rigging knots. (forgot to take a picture - will have to add one in later, my camera died and is recharging). 
 
Jesse 

I have tapered shaped the boom and gaff. The laser cut jaws supplied have split several times in the process of gluing them. I'm going to try to see if CA glue will soak into them and strengthen them after they are lightly stained. Will probably have to tear them off and re-make them with better wood. 
 

More progress on the Standing rigging. Have added the Main royal stay, Fore topgallant stay, Fore royal backstays, Fore royal stay,  Jib stay, Jib stay traveler inhaul, Flying jib stay, Flying jib stay traveler inhaul and the Bowsprit horses. It is difficult to show each of these lines individually. 
 
I found it very difficult to rig the inhauls and tie to the belaying pins on each side of the Bowsprit. There is so little room to reach into in this area - I'm glad I'm past that now. Forgot to photograph this, will have to add a picture in on an upcoming posting.
 
Jesse
 

I made a ropewalk!  It works pretty well so far.  Making the gears was the hardest part of the build, everything else was strait forward. 

Below is Caldercrafts 0.25mm "Rope" and I made a pretty decent rope from just three strands. 

The black ropes look just as good as the tan one but my camera won't pick up the details .  As you can see I wrote down how many strands are in each rope. Figuring out how thick they are is kinda tricky but I think -X12 1mm -X9 .8mm -X6 .6mm -X3 .3mm.  Getting it just right so the ends don't explode is trial and error.  I'm going to be obsessed with rope making until I perfect it.  

Trimming the gun ports is really hard, the walnut just wants to crack at every opportunity.  Now I just have to plank the inside and trim that too!

Very nice clean work Bob, I love the fine details that you achieve.

Post 44
 A milestone of sorts.
The basic hull is now complete, which is not to say that I won't be fussing and fiddling with the paintwork for some time yet.

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I'm a lot happier now with how she's looking than a few weeks ago.

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On the other hand my assistant seems far more sniffy about progress.

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Can't quite make my mind up whether to paint the fashion pieces black or leave them natural.

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So after some ten months I can set the hull aside and start looking at the deck fittings.
 
B.E.
07/10/2018
 

Really nice result on the cap rail edge molding, really seems to finish things off and all the detail blends in beautifully.  I similarly ponder the rear ports, I'm not convinced .they would be workable on the Snake/Cruiser class either but they are there.  I can only envisage them being used for rope work, mooring etc similar to the ubiquitous lower ports seen on larger ships when clearly there are also more practical, better positioned true stern gun ports - in any event they look great.
 
 

Really nice result on the cap rail edge molding, really seems to finish things off and all the detail blends in beautifully.  I similarly ponder the rear ports, I'm not convinced .they would be workable on the Snake/Cruiser class either but they are there.  I can only envisage them being used for rope work, mooring etc similar to the ubiquitous lower ports seen on larger ships when clearly there are also more practical, better positioned true stern gun ports - in any event they look great.
 
 

Congrats OC, beautiful model of a great looking ship!

Looking very nice Mark, I can't help but feel this would make a nice kit.  Have you considered going there?

Hi Jim, just a thought, I wonder if you were to go with the 'yellower' initial colour, it would fit in better to my eye.  You could try doing the spots in relief with a drill bit, and highlighting with a slightly darker colour which I think would be a little subtler.  All artistic opinion of course.  Looks great in any event.

Really nice result on the cap rail edge molding, really seems to finish things off and all the detail blends in beautifully.  I similarly ponder the rear ports, I'm not convinced .they would be workable on the Snake/Cruiser class either but they are there.  I can only envisage them being used for rope work, mooring etc similar to the ubiquitous lower ports seen on larger ships when clearly there are also more practical, better positioned true stern gun ports - in any event they look great.
 
 

Congrats OC, beautiful model of a great looking ship!

I didn't want to say anything.  Didn't want to risk bring the discussion down the gutter and getting a warning.   The cats look much better with the lighter color.
Tom

Congrats OC, beautiful model of a great looking ship!

Hi all,   so after fitting the last of the railings, touching up a bit of the paintwork   and a couple of  flag ropes  - Oh and the Flag.
 
I am considering this done apart from oerlikon pieces that I will get later.
 
Here is the gallery  - 
 
OC.

Yep, they are PE... truth is mine aren't perfect either but I guess they turned out OK.  
 
The Pontos PE set comes with little PE drill guide plates meant to be taped on the hull for easy drilling of the step holes; on this kit I inletted the plates straight onto the hull. While it makes for perfectly straight holes in the end, I don't think I'll do it again as it was a lot more work and I ended up having to drill the holes out again anyway because they filled up with primer. Otherwise, it was just carefully "gluing legs on an ant" and trying to keep 'em straight as I went. 
 
 
BTW, got my red-brown lower hull painted last night (the superstructure is the messed up pieces of the original Bissy)...
 

 

Thanks Richmond! 
 
 
 
Hit a milestone; the hull is done, PE is complete and Bissy is finally getting her final colors...
 

 

 

 

 

 
I first planned to paint the upper hull in Model Masters "grau" but it didn't look right so I went with Tamiya "sky grey" instead. On the real ship the hull was painted a somewhat darker shade of grey than the superstructure and this color goes nicely with my upper hull paint choice (Model Masters Litchtgrau); I am purposely aiming for lighter hues than real-life for scale effect and am admittedly more interested in a model that looks good than fretting over exact color matches so hopefully the infamous Teutonic rivet counters that haunt the darker reaches of the model interwebs don't go all gestapo on me.  
 
 It's a big hull to paint with a little airbrush but (along with the white primer) it's a good way to get an ever so slightly streaked look that adds some depth to the hull. It took a couple hours to get done.
 
Next comes the red anti-fouling paint and last the dark grey boot top; I'm giving at least a full day of dry time between each so I don't have to worry about pulling up any paint with the masking tape (always a lurking problem on Trumpeter big boat plastics). 
 
Until next time...
 
 

Thanks for looking in guys and for the 'likes'
Post 43
Cap rails

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With the inboard painting of the bulwarks completed (at least for the moment) I turn my attention to the Capping rails.

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Starting with the tafferal rail I shaped to size from a card template, and cut out from some 1/16" sheet.

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The moulding strip was made in the same manner as the other mouldings, and some curve imparted to follow the line of the tafferal.

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Applying heat to form the curve removes a lot of the stress of holding in place during gluing.

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The completed rail in place.
Turning to the rails along the bulwarks a card template was made and glued to a 1/16" boxwood sheet for cutting out.
That in turn provided a template for the other side.
Before  gluing the rails to the bulwarks a final check on the level of the bulwark tops so the rail will sit flat.
I decided to cut the rails in complete length each side rather than split them into sections, and I allowed myself a margin for error, but which also involved extra sanding down to  finish.
Some toll taken on the inboard painting.

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To reduce the width down to finished size I used a combination of scalpel blades and sanding sticks.

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The Hawse plates and the final upper moulding strips at the bow were added.

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I decided to drill the holes for the Bowsprit and anchor cables before I added the edging moulding to the cap rail.
The hole is not at present the full size and final enlargement will be done later.

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 Final action of this section, to add the fancy moulding along the cap rail edge.
 
B.E.
05/10/2018.
 

Greetings all
                    Well I have moved on to the port side and started on cutting out the gun ports which is going well.  But! Alas I have a bit of a problem on the starboard side.   Remember what Jason said in a post or so ago  “ the line of the wale is visually important “  It certainly is!!  The wale guidance strip is well out of line. It is so obvious, and It had been fitted for more than a day before I noticed. I don’t think correcting the mistake is cheatable, so I shall rectify the fault when the gunports are sorted.  Might be cheatable by then 😋.  Regards DAVID..