Beef Wellington

Love the KGV, remember building this kit a number of years ago.  The camo pattern I went with was definitely different so assuming was a different time period.  Looking forward to seeing the PE.

First off, thanks everyone for the likes and comments, my apologies for not responding sooner.  I haven't been able to keep up with everyone else's builds as much as I would have liked.
 
Been tinkering with a number of items that I want to get a head start on hopefully avoid pitfalls later.  I'm leaning toward getting as much work on the hull planned out or complete before the cannons get installed and the upper deck can go on - although that will still be a while because I needed a break from gun carriages.
 
Trimming the bow height:
Way back I'd mentioned that I took the approach to build the bows up higher than I would likely need to allow for the unforeseen.  I have now shaped these to be much closer to where I think they will end up, less a little finishing.  The bulwarks at the bow appear to be parallel to the whale, just like the rails, which was used as a guide.  This was an exercise in reconciliation as of course various small (or not so small) errors have crept in along the way.  This proved not too difficult, the only hiccup was found when dry fitting the deck, to ensure that the height of the bulwark is symmetrical on both sides, some shims were added to the top of some of the forward bulkheads.  The error is unlikely to be in the kit cut bulkheads, but more likely a combination of small discrepancies in my positioning of the position of the whales, waterline etc.  You can see in shots below the discrepancy in the height of the foremost gunport, this was a result of positioning the ports to be of equal height off the deck, which was clearly not fitted as well as it should have been.  These add about .5-0.75 of height on the starboard side, but the very small 'twist that this will introduce will not be noticeable.  The sheer rail at the bow has also been added.
 

 
Headworks:
Have been doing a lot of thinking about how to approach the headworks, clearly a rather challenging area.  Frankly, the kit supplied parts are a little disappointing being rather grainy and splintery, with some questionable dimensions.  The main rail seemed to be the place to start, and after a lot of experimentation decided to build this and the false rail together rather than in separate pieces - mainly because it seems sturdier, and less challenging as the false rail is rather lengthy and thin at this scale.  The main rails were cut from 2mm castello, and a profile introduced using a scraper to simulate the various features of the genuine article.  Curved, tapering shapes have to be the hardest to get right, especially with fine details and there were many time consuming rejects which painfully got me up the learning curve until I was happy.  The AOTS side elevations were scanned and manipulated digitally to correct for the angle to get the appropriate shape.  Caution!  I think the placement of the slot for the boomkin is not shown correctly on the AOTS side profile, I adjusted this looking at contemporary models - the revised position matches closely with the kit part which does provide some comfort.
 
The false rail was cut from 0.6mm pear sheet and 2 were laminated together.  The panel section of the false rail was cut out carefully to be shaped later by beveling the edges before replacing back in place.  First photo below shows a little how these were built up, with the first successful but discarded prototype, and a main rail that failed scraping.  Second photo below shows the kit supplied part next to the one of the scratched final articles.  Ignoring the quality of the wood (and to be fair, I made no effort to clean up the supplied parts), the AOTS plans suggest a subtly different profile curve, and a thicker main rail which looks too thin on the kit part.  The head of the main rail was deliberately cut a little longer to allow final shaping once these are finally installed.
 

 
These were then positioned with the head of the main rail vertical in both head on and side elevations.  It was found that these were quite easy to keep in place using mini modeling clothes pins  (scale replicas of the actual clothes pins used in actual ship construction  ).  Posting a lot of photos because I would really appreciate comments and suggestions from those more experienced with this to help me avoid fatal errors!
 

 
Finally, to confirm the layout of the boomkin slot, a copy was copied and scaled from the AOTS diagram.  This shows the tight proximity of the boomkin and seat of ease.  The triangular gap at the rear of the grating behind the false rail screen is where I believe there should be another seat of ease.
 
Again - I'm fumbling my way through this following the excellent TFFM book, so please do not be shy to point out errors and mistakes!
 

 

Hi Stergios - my apologies, I used the wrong words in a hurry.  The bowsprit does need to be fitted as you describe for the main, preventer stays to be completed.  There is also a fair amount of standing rigging on the bowsprit that I would suggest doing before you do that.  I think I actually did the bowsprit standing rigging before actually starting the mast standing rigging working from the stern.
 
What I meant to say above was that its not really necessary to attach the jib boom at this point - makes manipulating the model much easier as the jib boom seems to be an accident waiting to happen.  Good Luck!
 
 

Oc the frame showing are major Bulkheads within the hull, and wont be seen as they have either ballast tanks or casing covering them, 

Ok, I’ve made a start on the hull, only 120 or so portholes drilled out, all the deck details cut off and sanded and the 3 purge ended deck stuck on, including some plastic card to fill the hole amidships. 
 
This Ringol set from alliance Modelworks will be used above the portholes, and you can also see the amount of detail that needs to be scribed into the smooth hull. 
 
The plan is to do the layers of primer first so I can build up some thickness then place the ringols and the rear part of the ships degaussing cable. 

Thanks for the "likes" and the comments.
 
Had to do a "back 10 and punt" on this boat.  Still getting some oil canning and I'm not happy.   Re-thinking things.   I'll either add more ribs or go off in a different direction.  It didn't look bad, just didn't look right to my eye.  So, while thinking, I started looking over other bits and pieces and realized the DeathStar cuts just didn't look right also. <sigh>.   Dove into the problem...  Needed to re-calibrate things bigtime.  When I replaced parts some time ago after the pump failure took out the tube and power supply, I replaced them with "upgraded" parts.  Naturally, being Chinese, instructions were sparse so did some digging.    Power supply needed some adjustment and then my cut sheets (speed and power) needed to be rerun.  Also alignment was off due to moving the beast when working on it and cleaning the room.   I'm going to have to redo all my cut specs for each species and wood thickness.  Not hard work, just time consuming.
 
The several hours work, theresults are below.   The upper is "before" and the lower is "after".   Big difference to these tired old eyes.  BTW, those are are 3" (about 75mm) wide.  
 
I'm headed back to the ship's boats this week after more household duties have been performed.  I like the look of the Master Korbel boats and what's available so I ordered the largest one in 1/72.  Part of the learning curve.
 

Thanks for the likes, the comments, and just checking up...
 
I'm there... the keel is now where I want it to be. The two main mods are the bow and the stern areas.  I've also reworked the formers for the ribs.   The red circles show the areas that were the problem children and how they ended up.   I eased the arc of the bow, made it a bit wider for the planking.  The stern was the most radical change with the angle, and the (not sure of the word) bit where it now curves up into the sternpost.   I'm putting it together so hopefully later this week, it'll be finished externally.  I'm still deciding how much detailing of the interior such as seats, rudder stowage, oars, etc.  Almost all of this was stowed in the hold when not in use, but I'm thinking "visual interest".
 

Hi Chaps, we'll I am back after a little hiatus.   Ron, Mark, Pat, Bob and the likes - thanks for the kind words as always. 
 
Sjors - Its nice to have the option to use the kit part rather than nothing, its insurance 
 
I've landed a new job, which is some relief - even though I had time on my hands I couldn't enjoy building but did what I could when the mood took me.  I'm not sure how the scratch builders feel, but these cheeks and rails had me thinking I'd never get them done and asking myself if I'd bitten off more than I could chew.
 
First off, I had to decide how I wanted to terminate the rails.  This period seems to be a bit of a mix in styles, mixing more elaborate decoration with a hint of future frugality.  I decided to err on the side of ornamentation after studying some NMM models, which basically just meant a larger scroll on the hair bracket and lower cheek I tried to follow guidance in TFFM as much as I could, and I've shown the progress pics below.  This wasn't as hard as I thought and for a first effort I was pretty happy, but I'll leave final judgement to others.  I knew I'd be painting these, so I found myself occasionally putting a think coat of paint on to get a better sense for the contours which is difficult with the pale castello.  
 

Once the scrolls were done, I made a scraper for the contour and tried to add the profile.  I found this very tricky and found myself battling the curve, the changes in width and the slight grain, especially in the thinner sections.  First approach was to shape the cheek piece and the rail and then glue together (I did these off the model painting would be next to impossible once mounted).  This didn't work as well as hoped, the profiles didn't match and the edges had rounded, but some filler and rework did the job.  For the others, I glued the cheek piece and the bracket before profiling which seemed to work fine.  I used a touch of sepia wash to highlight the profile.  Near the scroll, there is barely a profile so paint is needed to give the effect.
 
Overall, I give myself a "C" on the profiling:  hopefully could do better next time but needed to move on or forever be stuck in hairbracket purgatory.  Next time () I think I'd try using pear rather than castello but didn't have any of the right dimension to hand to try.

Lastly, couldn't resist adding a little more detail than the kit offers and wanted to add both a Filling piece and Trailboard.  Looking at contemporary Artois models, the filling piece is quite substantial and adds a distinctive look.  First off, I tried making a 1mm thick version bent to the hull shape - too thin.  I next tried a 2mm think version, but again felt it was too thin.  Tried 3mm, but it was impossible to bend, so went with a 5mm castello sheet and shaped as needed.  This was quite a bit of work as none of the sides are at 90deg, and the hull curvature needs to be accounted for, luckily this doesn't need to be perfect as the interior faces will be hidden by the  cheeks.  The trailboard was relatively simple but again took a while to get the appropriate shape.  Once complete these should go together like a jigsaw puzzle.....

And the finished result.  These will not be glued until I have the port side pieces finalized, but they fit together just fine.  Overall, I found this tricky and time consuming, but educational.  Without detailed plans there was a lot to consider to get the alignment looking right to my eye, for example, the lower cheek scroll terminating at the foot of the figurehead, the hair bracket scroll aligning with the rounded top of the lacing piece.

Finally, recognition for all those failures forever consigned to the wastebasket of progress....

Love the KGV, remember building this kit a number of years ago.  The camo pattern I went with was definitely different so assuming was a different time period.  Looking forward to seeing the PE.

Love the KGV, remember building this kit a number of years ago.  The camo pattern I went with was definitely different so assuming was a different time period.  Looking forward to seeing the PE.

Love the KGV, remember building this kit a number of years ago.  The camo pattern I went with was definitely different so assuming was a different time period.  Looking forward to seeing the PE.

First off, thanks everyone for the likes and comments, my apologies for not responding sooner.  I haven't been able to keep up with everyone else's builds as much as I would have liked.
 
Been tinkering with a number of items that I want to get a head start on hopefully avoid pitfalls later.  I'm leaning toward getting as much work on the hull planned out or complete before the cannons get installed and the upper deck can go on - although that will still be a while because I needed a break from gun carriages.
 
Trimming the bow height:
Way back I'd mentioned that I took the approach to build the bows up higher than I would likely need to allow for the unforeseen.  I have now shaped these to be much closer to where I think they will end up, less a little finishing.  The bulwarks at the bow appear to be parallel to the whale, just like the rails, which was used as a guide.  This was an exercise in reconciliation as of course various small (or not so small) errors have crept in along the way.  This proved not too difficult, the only hiccup was found when dry fitting the deck, to ensure that the height of the bulwark is symmetrical on both sides, some shims were added to the top of some of the forward bulkheads.  The error is unlikely to be in the kit cut bulkheads, but more likely a combination of small discrepancies in my positioning of the position of the whales, waterline etc.  You can see in shots below the discrepancy in the height of the foremost gunport, this was a result of positioning the ports to be of equal height off the deck, which was clearly not fitted as well as it should have been.  These add about .5-0.75 of height on the starboard side, but the very small 'twist that this will introduce will not be noticeable.  The sheer rail at the bow has also been added.
 

 
Headworks:
Have been doing a lot of thinking about how to approach the headworks, clearly a rather challenging area.  Frankly, the kit supplied parts are a little disappointing being rather grainy and splintery, with some questionable dimensions.  The main rail seemed to be the place to start, and after a lot of experimentation decided to build this and the false rail together rather than in separate pieces - mainly because it seems sturdier, and less challenging as the false rail is rather lengthy and thin at this scale.  The main rails were cut from 2mm castello, and a profile introduced using a scraper to simulate the various features of the genuine article.  Curved, tapering shapes have to be the hardest to get right, especially with fine details and there were many time consuming rejects which painfully got me up the learning curve until I was happy.  The AOTS side elevations were scanned and manipulated digitally to correct for the angle to get the appropriate shape.  Caution!  I think the placement of the slot for the boomkin is not shown correctly on the AOTS side profile, I adjusted this looking at contemporary models - the revised position matches closely with the kit part which does provide some comfort.
 
The false rail was cut from 0.6mm pear sheet and 2 were laminated together.  The panel section of the false rail was cut out carefully to be shaped later by beveling the edges before replacing back in place.  First photo below shows a little how these were built up, with the first successful but discarded prototype, and a main rail that failed scraping.  Second photo below shows the kit supplied part next to the one of the scratched final articles.  Ignoring the quality of the wood (and to be fair, I made no effort to clean up the supplied parts), the AOTS plans suggest a subtly different profile curve, and a thicker main rail which looks too thin on the kit part.  The head of the main rail was deliberately cut a little longer to allow final shaping once these are finally installed.
 

 
These were then positioned with the head of the main rail vertical in both head on and side elevations.  It was found that these were quite easy to keep in place using mini modeling clothes pins  (scale replicas of the actual clothes pins used in actual ship construction  ).  Posting a lot of photos because I would really appreciate comments and suggestions from those more experienced with this to help me avoid fatal errors!
 

 
Finally, to confirm the layout of the boomkin slot, a copy was copied and scaled from the AOTS diagram.  This shows the tight proximity of the boomkin and seat of ease.  The triangular gap at the rear of the grating behind the false rail screen is where I believe there should be another seat of ease.
 
Again - I'm fumbling my way through this following the excellent TFFM book, so please do not be shy to point out errors and mistakes!
 

 

Love the KGV, remember building this kit a number of years ago.  The camo pattern I went with was definitely different so assuming was a different time period.  Looking forward to seeing the PE.

Love the KGV, remember building this kit a number of years ago.  The camo pattern I went with was definitely different so assuming was a different time period.  Looking forward to seeing the PE.

Love the KGV, remember building this kit a number of years ago.  The camo pattern I went with was definitely different so assuming was a different time period.  Looking forward to seeing the PE.

So I found a King George V on a local buy and sell site, came with a wooden deck and metal barrels at a good price.
 
I know it's been done, Mr Rabbit and Kpnuts, and there are basically three iterations of HMS King George's Career, when she fought the Bismarck in '41, the '43 fit out then the '44 fit out.
 
I want to do the '43 fit out as it hardly ever been done, the references are very obscure and I get to do camouflage and not strait grey.
 
The Tamiya Kit is set for the 1945 fit out, having removed the aircraft and placed the ships boats amidships, but the Aftermarket Pontos is retrofitted for 1941.
 
The thing is, the Pontos set gives you  the ability to have an aircraft deck but the kit gives you no aircraft. Thus one has to buy a Walrus.
 
The Tamiya kit has the stern square hatches omitted which need to be after - after market as Pontos ignored this gem.
 
I got the new Infini Models RN Doors (he bloke who is Infini models designed this set when he worked for Pontos) as they are just magnificent.
 
I also got some individual RN stanchions as I'm over one piece railings are I like to torture myself.
 
I've ordered new Carley Floats (i'll have to scratch build the Flota nets) and an extra set of 20mm guns as there should be 38 of them all up.
 
The Chap I bought the kit from had a Artwox deck which is suitable but the Pontos one is fairly clean which means I can add whatever configuration I want.
 
I've spent a few weeks researching tis and the internet is just full of people who just do not check their references, as  about 70% of the photos pro porting to be KGV are usually a sister ship.
The Imperial War Museum has lovely photos which are correctly labeled and allow me to feel comfortable in my 1943 configuration.
 
Welcome to build number 10 in 1/350.

The hull is smooth as a baby's bum BUT does etch in a boot strap.


 
Your can see from the photos of when KGV was in drydock in 1941 after a parking incident there is a considerable amount of hull detail missing.




 
The Degausing cable was removed in later '41. It appears from the 1943 photo it was only the bow section.


 
The stern also has these pesky square hatches (photo is from '45 when some portholes were covered over).


 
The deck will need to be completely wiped clean and flush. As such by the time get this one done, Cog will be out of excuses to do the next joint build.


 
Roger Chesneau's book on the KGV class includes the fit out history.
 
As such the hull needs a LOT of work before any PE comes out of the box.

First off, thanks everyone for the likes and comments, my apologies for not responding sooner.  I haven't been able to keep up with everyone else's builds as much as I would have liked.
 
Been tinkering with a number of items that I want to get a head start on hopefully avoid pitfalls later.  I'm leaning toward getting as much work on the hull planned out or complete before the cannons get installed and the upper deck can go on - although that will still be a while because I needed a break from gun carriages.
 
Trimming the bow height:
Way back I'd mentioned that I took the approach to build the bows up higher than I would likely need to allow for the unforeseen.  I have now shaped these to be much closer to where I think they will end up, less a little finishing.  The bulwarks at the bow appear to be parallel to the whale, just like the rails, which was used as a guide.  This was an exercise in reconciliation as of course various small (or not so small) errors have crept in along the way.  This proved not too difficult, the only hiccup was found when dry fitting the deck, to ensure that the height of the bulwark is symmetrical on both sides, some shims were added to the top of some of the forward bulkheads.  The error is unlikely to be in the kit cut bulkheads, but more likely a combination of small discrepancies in my positioning of the position of the whales, waterline etc.  You can see in shots below the discrepancy in the height of the foremost gunport, this was a result of positioning the ports to be of equal height off the deck, which was clearly not fitted as well as it should have been.  These add about .5-0.75 of height on the starboard side, but the very small 'twist that this will introduce will not be noticeable.  The sheer rail at the bow has also been added.
 

 
Headworks:
Have been doing a lot of thinking about how to approach the headworks, clearly a rather challenging area.  Frankly, the kit supplied parts are a little disappointing being rather grainy and splintery, with some questionable dimensions.  The main rail seemed to be the place to start, and after a lot of experimentation decided to build this and the false rail together rather than in separate pieces - mainly because it seems sturdier, and less challenging as the false rail is rather lengthy and thin at this scale.  The main rails were cut from 2mm castello, and a profile introduced using a scraper to simulate the various features of the genuine article.  Curved, tapering shapes have to be the hardest to get right, especially with fine details and there were many time consuming rejects which painfully got me up the learning curve until I was happy.  The AOTS side elevations were scanned and manipulated digitally to correct for the angle to get the appropriate shape.  Caution!  I think the placement of the slot for the boomkin is not shown correctly on the AOTS side profile, I adjusted this looking at contemporary models - the revised position matches closely with the kit part which does provide some comfort.
 
The false rail was cut from 0.6mm pear sheet and 2 were laminated together.  The panel section of the false rail was cut out carefully to be shaped later by beveling the edges before replacing back in place.  First photo below shows a little how these were built up, with the first successful but discarded prototype, and a main rail that failed scraping.  Second photo below shows the kit supplied part next to the one of the scratched final articles.  Ignoring the quality of the wood (and to be fair, I made no effort to clean up the supplied parts), the AOTS plans suggest a subtly different profile curve, and a thicker main rail which looks too thin on the kit part.  The head of the main rail was deliberately cut a little longer to allow final shaping once these are finally installed.
 

 
These were then positioned with the head of the main rail vertical in both head on and side elevations.  It was found that these were quite easy to keep in place using mini modeling clothes pins  (scale replicas of the actual clothes pins used in actual ship construction  ).  Posting a lot of photos because I would really appreciate comments and suggestions from those more experienced with this to help me avoid fatal errors!
 

 
Finally, to confirm the layout of the boomkin slot, a copy was copied and scaled from the AOTS diagram.  This shows the tight proximity of the boomkin and seat of ease.  The triangular gap at the rear of the grating behind the false rail screen is where I believe there should be another seat of ease.
 
Again - I'm fumbling my way through this following the excellent TFFM book, so please do not be shy to point out errors and mistakes!
 

 

The holes for the 'treenails' are finally drilled - not difficult, just time-consuming.
 
The first photo shows the reinforcing of the deck and the main hatch. The reinforcing is comprised of six 2x4mm strips and one 2x5mm strip - total width of 29mm - the same as the exterior width of the main hatch.  However the one 2x4mm strip supplied was of very, very poor quality.  Of the one 600mm strip supplied, about 400mm could be best used as kindling; the remaining 200mm in bits and pieces along the length of the 600mm strip, was only just acceptable after quite a bit of work tidying it up. Nevertheless it was still very splintery.  The whereabouts of the 5mm strip remains a mystery.   Fortunately I had a small bit of 1.5x5 mm strip which I used after sticking a piece of 0.5x5mm strip beneath it.  At least most of the reinforcing (and a slip of the drill bit) will be obscured by the bitts and rigging. 
 
For the elements of hatch, I have substituted strip for the ply supplied.  The strips were not finally stuck down when the photos were taken. For comparison, the ply may be seen in the last photo of my previous post.
 
Now I have to fill the holes.
 
 

 
 
 

 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Hi Rob, I think Peter's question is a good one, that does not look at all like boxwood, European or Castello.  From my experience it always has very sharp edges and flaky/splintery edges are never seen.

Count me in on this OC from here in, interesting to see how this comes together and how you approach the painting.  Nicely done so far.

First off, thanks everyone for the likes and comments, my apologies for not responding sooner.  I haven't been able to keep up with everyone else's builds as much as I would have liked.
 
Been tinkering with a number of items that I want to get a head start on hopefully avoid pitfalls later.  I'm leaning toward getting as much work on the hull planned out or complete before the cannons get installed and the upper deck can go on - although that will still be a while because I needed a break from gun carriages.
 
Trimming the bow height:
Way back I'd mentioned that I took the approach to build the bows up higher than I would likely need to allow for the unforeseen.  I have now shaped these to be much closer to where I think they will end up, less a little finishing.  The bulwarks at the bow appear to be parallel to the whale, just like the rails, which was used as a guide.  This was an exercise in reconciliation as of course various small (or not so small) errors have crept in along the way.  This proved not too difficult, the only hiccup was found when dry fitting the deck, to ensure that the height of the bulwark is symmetrical on both sides, some shims were added to the top of some of the forward bulkheads.  The error is unlikely to be in the kit cut bulkheads, but more likely a combination of small discrepancies in my positioning of the position of the whales, waterline etc.  You can see in shots below the discrepancy in the height of the foremost gunport, this was a result of positioning the ports to be of equal height off the deck, which was clearly not fitted as well as it should have been.  These add about .5-0.75 of height on the starboard side, but the very small 'twist that this will introduce will not be noticeable.  The sheer rail at the bow has also been added.
 

 
Headworks:
Have been doing a lot of thinking about how to approach the headworks, clearly a rather challenging area.  Frankly, the kit supplied parts are a little disappointing being rather grainy and splintery, with some questionable dimensions.  The main rail seemed to be the place to start, and after a lot of experimentation decided to build this and the false rail together rather than in separate pieces - mainly because it seems sturdier, and less challenging as the false rail is rather lengthy and thin at this scale.  The main rails were cut from 2mm castello, and a profile introduced using a scraper to simulate the various features of the genuine article.  Curved, tapering shapes have to be the hardest to get right, especially with fine details and there were many time consuming rejects which painfully got me up the learning curve until I was happy.  The AOTS side elevations were scanned and manipulated digitally to correct for the angle to get the appropriate shape.  Caution!  I think the placement of the slot for the boomkin is not shown correctly on the AOTS side profile, I adjusted this looking at contemporary models - the revised position matches closely with the kit part which does provide some comfort.
 
The false rail was cut from 0.6mm pear sheet and 2 were laminated together.  The panel section of the false rail was cut out carefully to be shaped later by beveling the edges before replacing back in place.  First photo below shows a little how these were built up, with the first successful but discarded prototype, and a main rail that failed scraping.  Second photo below shows the kit supplied part next to the one of the scratched final articles.  Ignoring the quality of the wood (and to be fair, I made no effort to clean up the supplied parts), the AOTS plans suggest a subtly different profile curve, and a thicker main rail which looks too thin on the kit part.  The head of the main rail was deliberately cut a little longer to allow final shaping once these are finally installed.
 

 
These were then positioned with the head of the main rail vertical in both head on and side elevations.  It was found that these were quite easy to keep in place using mini modeling clothes pins  (scale replicas of the actual clothes pins used in actual ship construction  ).  Posting a lot of photos because I would really appreciate comments and suggestions from those more experienced with this to help me avoid fatal errors!
 

 
Finally, to confirm the layout of the boomkin slot, a copy was copied and scaled from the AOTS diagram.  This shows the tight proximity of the boomkin and seat of ease.  The triangular gap at the rear of the grating behind the false rail screen is where I believe there should be another seat of ease.
 
Again - I'm fumbling my way through this following the excellent TFFM book, so please do not be shy to point out errors and mistakes!
 

 

Hi again folks, another small update.  I have started work on the anchors - Trotman Pattern.  The contract for Victoria specified 3 of these, two as Bowers and one as the stream, with the latter a little smaller/lighter.  These anchors were assessed by a Committee in 1852 and rated as the strongest/best holding anchors (28% better) yet the Admiralty did not deviate from their "Admiralty pattern".  These were an enhanced version of the Port/Hornibal pattern
The earlier style of this anchor had the rounded/ovalish shank and the straight iron stock; the bent arm iron stock was not introduced until about 1860.
 
The following photos show the construction of the first anchor from cut raw materials through to completed item.  The shank was shaped from a single piece of thick brass then the holes drilled and the slot cut.  The flukes were silver soldered to the shank then cleaned up.  the stock was made in two parts to enable the ball ends to be turned as they would not fit through the 1mm hole; I don't know how they did this in real life as the is a conical stopper on one side of the stock and a pin on the other - if you look real close you can see I managed to add that detail.  The hex head bolt and nut, and the shackle, were some purchased stock from another project, but fit perfectly for this job   The anchor was blackened with Birchwood Casey Brass Black (diluted to 25%)
 
The photos are in extreme close up as these are only 21mm long overall and as such show all the early scuffing from my filing before cleanup.  The next two should look a little better as my technique improves.
 
cheers
 
Pat
 
    
  

Hi again folks; another small update.
 
i am starting to add some gun details now and have completed milling and lather work for the pivot gun wheel races and the locking pins - the races are simply placed (not glued) to give an idea where they will fit so they are not centred to each other at the moment. 
 
The pins were frustrating to make as you can see they are very small - the bottom part is rough as that will be used t glue it into the deck.  These pins are used to lock the lower carriage into one of the cardinal or intercardinal points.  The idea was the gun pivoted on the rear fold down hinged clamp only with the forward one used to lock it on the bearing.
 
The following photos show progress so far, and the graphic of the gun shows the pin arrangements.
 
  
    
cheers
 
Pat

As promised ... not so certain about the candy though ...