Beef Wellington

Post 20
Planking the stern

6860
Starting with the lowest counter plank (3/16th" strip) water/heat was used to form the quite pronounced curve required.

6916
I found holding this first plank in place whilst gluing quite tricky,  and an early stage set back occurred when a spring clamp flew off and snapped one of the inner stern frames.

6913
No too difficult to repair with braces added either side of the break, but an unsettling moment nonetheless.

6917
Once the first plank is fixed the following planks go on without too much trouble, totalling seven strakes up to the break with the transom.
The final plank below the transom required a slightly greater width, I used 7/32" which was then sanded down to suit, and the 1/16" moulding strip attached.
 
The Transom
Planking the transom should take four strakes, I shaped the first two planks insitu to get the curve, and then sectioned them to fit between the ports.

6925
The third plank has to be rebated to fit over the ports, a job done slowly using a scalpel.

7145
For reasons I can't fathom even a 7/32" plank was a fraction short to reach the top of the central stern frames so it was necessary to add a 1/16" strip above the third plank.

7142
Hmmn, seem to have too much sill showing at the bottom of ports, will leave it for the present but may need to infill with a  narrow strip.

7143
At this point I also started to define the camber aft of the last bulkhead.
All still looking a bit rough at present, but I'll move onto the fashion pieces before I clean things up.
 
B.E.
25/03/2018
 
 

good god its its time for another update

the bridge

the last big module and i messed up

the lower middle windows dont need to be there, but being a fool i put them in as they are on the plans, it appears they were moved at the time the B turret was replaced by the Exocet missile system, as a result the two outer ones were bang on top of the supports forming the shape and there is a notch missing where the knife slipped, oh hum







the blast deflectors will cover the two lower windows



so i added two more


   

Finished, or at least all I am doing, I can always find some bit to alter, add to or change.

I would suggest calling Jotika/Caldercraft, if anyone can provide them it would be them and they are typically very helpful.

Nicely done, definitely worth the extra effort on the dummy carriages.  Are you going to consider upgrading the metal carriages as well?

The first of the decks, the gun deck, is now fully equipped with frames and dummy carriages. I decided to do a test run and arm one side with all the dummy guns. (I'm presently reading The Martian again and Mark Watney repeatedly stresses the need for test runs as 'No plan survives the first contact with the enemy' (perhaps quoting General Tacticus or a similar authority) and so a test run was done.)

I only broke off three dummy carriages and therefore it was a successful test because it showed the need for more glue to fix them to the port frame before I close the space with the upper deck.



One deck finished, two more to go but this was by far the most simple one...

 


 


she is showing some teeth...



 



the dummies - although rather simplified - improve the overall impression

Thank you for the likes and nice comments. 
 
606 Hours into the build and I have completed the brass bolt installation on the hull.  I wish I did not use CA glue when installing the bolts.  The CA glue stains show through the wax and turpentine finish.  I should have tested this off the model!  This was not a problem when using oil based finishes on past ships.  Perhaps I need to add a little more turpentine to the mix?  Any ideas on how to solve this?
 
After the bolts were installed, I sanded the entire hull with 150 - 220 - 400 grit and then steel wool.  I focused on one frame at a time.  I then turned my attention to the ribbands. 
 
TIP: I used car pinstripping tape to layout the ribband sweep.  It worked out great!  I just ran the ribband in between the two stripes.  It even helped with glue drips. 
 
These pieces are about 30 scale feet long at six inches square.  I rounded them off slightly as Ed describes in his book.  They are boxwood and are hook scarfed for added detail.  An iron bolt will run through the ribband at the location of each frame. 
 
I absolutely love the clamps that Ed recommended be made for this model.  They are simple to make and very effective. Prior to putting any glue on the ribband I test fit the clamps and had them ready to go. I plan to do four ribbands on each side of the ship.  I don't intend on doing much planking.  I really want the structure to show.  There are a few trouble spots that will receive planking, just to hide the errors.
 
All has worked out well to this point. 
 
My plan is to finish the lower hull, just below the gun ports, before turning my attention back to the interior of the ship.
 
Thanks as always for following along.
 
Gary

Jesse - don't get discouraged. It's a marvel what you have done to build these scratch. If it's any consolation, carronades are just a pain to build, even using the CC aftermarket kits was a very time consuming, expletive laden experience so hang in there. On the flush decked ships they are so key to the overall look that you'll be glad you took your time.

I'm clearly late to the party, but congratulations Bob on completing such a fine looking model, greatly enjoyed following your progress and looking to see whats next...

I'm clearly late to the party, but congratulations Bob on completing such a fine looking model, greatly enjoyed following your progress and looking to see whats next...

Thanks everyone for interest and kind words
 
Frolick - thanks for posting the history of that action, always very interesting to read.
 
Final comments on the stern, brief notes, and pictures thrown in just for spice:
 
The roof of the quarter galleries was really the last major hurdle to getting the 'look' of the stern as I wanted it.  This did pose a conundrum, as options abounded.  Other frigates of the period typically seemed to have the more classical fluted columns between lights and shingled 'roof' to the quarter galleries, and the contemporary models of Diana have a highly decorative roof and columns which Christian (Barbossa) has replicated so beautifully on his Diana.  In the end, just decided to follow the AOTS book and its distinctly Georgian look which I like and use some of the kit supplied mouldings.
 
The roof itself was made from some spare stock and shaped to dimensions less that that suggested by the instructions using the plans.  The kit provides some soft metal decorations, although how they are supposed to be applied is a mystery as the roof has a quite fine, but pronounced convex-concave shape.  I very carefully attacked this with a dremel and removed the thickness of the metal backing to leave the decorative elements which felt a little more in keeping with the scale.  This was less challenging that at first thought, though care is certainly required and fine tuning with a sanding stick.  The only problem was that the these did have a tendency to break, although these can be reassembled without too much difficulty in situ.
 
With the roof in place the stern seems to have acquired its (almost) final form, some decorations between the lights need to be applied still as appear on the stern, and a molding will ultimately the placed on top.  Overall, I am very happy with the way this turned out, and proved to be more challenging than I had initially thought.  I've talked at length at some faults with the dimensions and shapes of the provided PE parts but I think these can be used to provide reasonable results with some planning.  These do look much better to the human eye, the camera seems to highlight the slightest misalignment 
 

 
The sheer rail could now be placed, and fortuitously this landed almost exactly where it should lining up with the top of the quarter gallery roof.  Gaps have been left for the channels which will be positioned later.  Steps, fenders and chesstrees have also been attached after reducing slightly to the expected level of the deck.  Not much else to say so I'll leave with some pictures...
 

I'm clearly late to the party, but congratulations Bob on completing such a fine looking model, greatly enjoyed following your progress and looking to see whats next...

All of the rigging is now complete. Some health issues have limited my golf, which always means more modeling, resulting in a push to finish the rigging. This involved making, mounting and rigging the main lower and topmast yards, doing the braces for all of the yards, and, finally, tying off all of the lines and adding rope coils.
 
The making, mounting and rigging of the main yards followed identically the items and procedures for the fore yards, and won't be repeated here.
 
The lower yard braces were a bit of a challenge because they run to the shrouds on their opposite mast, making it difficult to give them tension without pulling the shrouds out of line. I think that I was finally able to do that.
 
By far the most difficult task was to tie off and add coils to the many lines that were hanging loosely as I proceeded through the rigging. The combination of tight spaces and aging hands that aren't quite as steady as they used to be made for a lot of bad language and a few 'timeouts".
 
All that remains to be done now are the swivel guns and the anchors.
 
Bob

Since no log can be deemed complete without some overall photos of the finished model, mine are attached here.
 
I'd like to take this opportunity to thank all of you who have followed this build, who have hit the "like" button, and, particularly, those who have provided their support and encouragement through their generous thoughts and comments. It is gratifying to have such an appreciative response from such a talented and accomplished group of modelers. Thanks again.
 
I hope to see you all on my new log for Prince de Neufchatel, which will be opened a little later today.
 
Bob

I've completed, mounted, and partially rigged the fore lower and topmast yards. 
 
The lower yard does not have a sail (at least as shown on the plan) and was given foot ropes, blocks for the topsail sheets, blocks for the lifts, a truss and a sling. The sling contains two bullseyes and a lanyard. The topmast yard has foot ropes, lifts, a parrel, a halyard and topsail clew blocks. The parrel was made using beads and trucks shaped from 1/32" boxwood strip. To shape the trucks, I lightly glued six pieces of strip in a stack, shaped them with files, drilled two holes, and then separated them with alcohol.
 
After mounting the yards on their mast pins, I partially completed their rigging. I tied off the truss, sling and parrel and then I did the lifts and the topsail halyard, clews and sheets and bowlines. I didn't finish these lines because, in my haphazard fashion, I had run out of needed blocks, which are now on the way to me. I also didn't do the braces for either yard, because I believe them to be best added later.
 
I'm now working on the main gaff and boom, while waiting for the delivery.
 
Bob

Glad to see you back Ferit.  Nice clean work as to be expected, the replacement grating looks much better.  Nicely done!

Thank you all. Here's another.
Sailing Fishing craft at the turn of the 19/20 centuries. The Bass Rock and East Lothian in the distance.
15" X 11" 
Jim

Awesome work Jesse, everything has already been said!

That boat looks great Jessie.  I can't believe how thin you must have been able to get the base structure to allow you to double plank inside and out, sure patience played a big part.  Very nice work.

Love what you've achieved with the masts, cleats and tops, should all look stunning all in place.  The deadeye plates do look convincing, nicely done.

Anstruther harbour late 19th/early 20th century. Fifie and Zulu sailing Luggers awaiting the tide.
About 15" X 9"

Away for a few days, to the annual Charlie Russell art auction in Great Falls, Montana. Some of the best Western traditional art in the US. I can't afford to buy any, just look and admire...
 
I am continuing with the wales. I fitted the foremost, lower two strakes before bending, using artist's transfer paper squeezed between the two pieces. This notes high points which are then lightly filed down, and the two are tested again. With patience, one can sneak up on a very tight joint. The second photo shows dry clamping for fit after the bending, and a closeup in the third photo. Interestingly, the plank was carefully spiled, but it still needed a fair amount of adjustment using the artist's transfer paper. I think it has to do with the constantly changing angle of the upper surface, since most of the high points were on the inner edge. Glue tomorrow!
 
Mark
 

Glad to see you back Ferit.  Nice clean work as to be expected, the replacement grating looks much better.  Nicely done!

Hi again folks, some further small updates.  i have decided I HATE this camera - it shows far too much detail too clearly   These photos are extreme close-ups as the port openings (with bucklars fitted) are less than 20mm across.  They show that I have a lot (did I say a LOT) of cleaning up to do yet.  All those bumps (dust) are not visible to the naked eye.  The one advantage is that it clearly shows where I need to sand, touch-up or square off etc. so that will be the next major undertaking.
 
The first photos show a 3D printed funnel; primed black.  We had started one in metal but getting the panel rivet details etc to show proved too difficult.  The 3D printed one looks OK but has a bit of cleaning up (sanding mainly) to be done yet.  The tie-down rings are small brass eyes I made; chains will be fitted to these and secured at the deck with bottle screws.


The towing timbers (bollards) are made from brass (shown previously) and blackened.  I then sanded the top to simulate the copper cap (as per the contract).  The small wingnuts (first photo) simulate one method by which these bucklers may have been secured in place for sea (battens across the towing timbers and pulled taut with the threaded rod and wingnut.
 


 

I have also fitted the heads (less than 10mm across) and pissdales - this one is shown closed, the opposite has the lid up.  I still have to add a small rope handle to the lids.

I have also dry fitted the rear bench to the transom.

Now back to the sanding and scraping, then touch ups to cover the 'vermillion' that just keeps showing/bleeding through.
 
cheers
 
Pat
 
 

Thanks everyone for interest and kind words
 
Frolick - thanks for posting the history of that action, always very interesting to read.
 
Final comments on the stern, brief notes, and pictures thrown in just for spice:
 
The roof of the quarter galleries was really the last major hurdle to getting the 'look' of the stern as I wanted it.  This did pose a conundrum, as options abounded.  Other frigates of the period typically seemed to have the more classical fluted columns between lights and shingled 'roof' to the quarter galleries, and the contemporary models of Diana have a highly decorative roof and columns which Christian (Barbossa) has replicated so beautifully on his Diana.  In the end, just decided to follow the AOTS book and its distinctly Georgian look which I like and use some of the kit supplied mouldings.
 
The roof itself was made from some spare stock and shaped to dimensions less that that suggested by the instructions using the plans.  The kit provides some soft metal decorations, although how they are supposed to be applied is a mystery as the roof has a quite fine, but pronounced convex-concave shape.  I very carefully attacked this with a dremel and removed the thickness of the metal backing to leave the decorative elements which felt a little more in keeping with the scale.  This was less challenging that at first thought, though care is certainly required and fine tuning with a sanding stick.  The only problem was that the these did have a tendency to break, although these can be reassembled without too much difficulty in situ.
 
With the roof in place the stern seems to have acquired its (almost) final form, some decorations between the lights need to be applied still as appear on the stern, and a molding will ultimately the placed on top.  Overall, I am very happy with the way this turned out, and proved to be more challenging than I had initially thought.  I've talked at length at some faults with the dimensions and shapes of the provided PE parts but I think these can be used to provide reasonable results with some planning.  These do look much better to the human eye, the camera seems to highlight the slightest misalignment 
 

 
The sheer rail could now be placed, and fortuitously this landed almost exactly where it should lining up with the top of the quarter gallery roof.  Gaps have been left for the channels which will be positioned later.  Steps, fenders and chesstrees have also been attached after reducing slightly to the expected level of the deck.  Not much else to say so I'll leave with some pictures...