Beef Wellington

Hope this is temporary also,  I have had nothing but exceptional service from Crown in the past and hope that nothing serious has occurred.

I really like it B.E. A lovely piece of work.
 
Bob
 
 

Making this simple Mike, I think there are plenty of patination solutions available specifically aimed at a verdigris finish (rather than blackening) if that's the direction you want to go.  Have never tried any, but the jewelry market seems big on this.  Google search should give you plenty of options.

And the next set of deck equipment 

A small diversion to play with the boat equipment.
The Grapnel
The grapnel as provided by the kit seems to have been rigged without the benefit of a ring, the line secured directly thro' the eye in the shank where the ring should be.

A grapnel as illustrated by Steel shows a ring fitted thro' the eye.
Steel gives a grapnel rope circ for ships boats as 3" - 3½" which equates to around 1mm diameter line at scale.

0946
This alone would not be possible without a ring, particularly as the classic hitch for small anchors is a Fisherman's Bend where the line passes twice thro' the ring.
 He also gives 35 fathoms as the length of the grapnel rope. which scales to 2667mm. This is 8.75ft at scale, where would all that fit in the boat!

0967(2)
I satisfied myself with a rope length of around 30' - 300mm which I figured would be long enough for what is essentially a harbour boat.
Boat Hook
This is shown on the plan but the makings are not included with the kit.
 

0950
Not too difficult an item to reproduce, I use a soft white metal strip (the arm from one of Mrs W's hair clips, cut and shaped with files, and inserted into a length of thin Walnut dowel.

0948

0964

0956
The Thole pins and chocks are also shown on these shots. Nothing much to say about the tholes except they are fiddly little things to make, parts very small, fingers too big.
I changed the style slightly from the plans, and left them unpainted as a contrast to the predominantly red  scheme.

0961
Just the Splashguards left to do now.
 
B.E.

Will follow along with the usual fascination Nils, interesting subject and can't wait to see how she comes together.

Will follow along with the usual fascination Nils, interesting subject and can't wait to see how she comes together.

What would like the shorten version of a 74, something like this.

Spent some time making a base.  Testing how to display the sweeps.   Still only one sweep completed.   Wont get to the others until next week.   Even so,  this project is in the home stretch.  At least the model is.   I still have to carve the decorations for the port side too!!  The sweeps will be displayed 5 per side on laser cut racks.  I just taped them to the base for this test but I like how it will look.  
 
Then I have to finalize the plans,  write the instructions,  think about packaging and start manufacturing.  So still lots to do before these are shelf-ready.  But at least now the long to-do list is shorter and more manageable.
 

 

 

 

 
Chuck

Some samples of my priming work, three to four layers each to get it covering the plastic. I'll be adding some dark tones to get some depth in the final layer(s). Right now it is a bit "sterile"
(Piet, hope these cause less "anxiety" on your fragile eyes )
 

 
 
Still some more airbrushing to do. Enough practise with this build(!)

I have to check the PE install sheets again, but I hope the tower is ready to prime ... Radar dry fitted ...

 
Tripod aerial mast, one more to go, a tad smaller ...

I agree wholeheartedly with Martin, a waterline set too low creates an unbalanced look in my opinion, a higher line, besides being more historically accurate, provides more of a sense of "heft".  On my Snake the waterline is in my opinion too low (but not horribly so) which I did in blissful ignorance, but I see it everytime I look at her.

Really nice Mobbsie, I was not even aware of this kit until your build so nice to see something different, the stand is really subtle and discrete, love it.
 
As for the ensign, think you're good with the red duster as red, white and blue would still have been in use - and I believe the red was used for HM ships under admiralty orders, which I suspect a harbor gun boat would be....
 
Will look great anyway whichever way you go!

The position of the figure and look of the oar look good to me BE.  Ignorance is wonderful...can only guess that the functional reason for the loom is to provide some counter balance to the outboard weight of the oar and improve handling balance, but its interesting that your modern example (and any that I've seen) do not have this.  I would also have thought that the square loom would be beneficial if it extended to the tholes to keep the blade angle constantly perpendicular making it easier to control if there is no need to feather the blade angle (?)
 
 

The position of the figure and look of the oar look good to me BE.  Ignorance is wonderful...can only guess that the functional reason for the loom is to provide some counter balance to the outboard weight of the oar and improve handling balance, but its interesting that your modern example (and any that I've seen) do not have this.  I would also have thought that the square loom would be beneficial if it extended to the tholes to keep the blade angle constantly perpendicular making it easier to control if there is no need to feather the blade angle (?)
 
 

Thank you Steve, Mark and Martin.
@ Mark and Martin - With a single banked arrangement the rower should be close to the opposite side  to the tholes, to gain maximum leverage.

Here's a modern version of single banked rowing and you can see the rowers are close to the sides. These modern oars don't seem to have the old style looms but rather a slightly thickened and protected area where the oar passes thro' the oarlocks, although in this case not all the oars are set the same.  Not sure Martin that the extension outboard of the oar should change with the forward/backward movement of the rower, but I base this purely on my very limited experience of having an occasional scull up the river. 
 
Cheers Guys,
 
B.E.

Been too long since this has been updated.  Things around the household have become rather busy and hopefully a calm is coming.
 
I'm doing the inner planking and fitting the planks to the gunports as I go.  Rather fiddly but it's cut, glue and then sand to shape.   I'm trying to cut the planks more to the size between the ports just cut down the amount of sanding to fit.  I have at least the bottom of the ports done which will give me clearance and a clear demarkation of the ports, Hopefully the rest of this will go a bit faster.
 

 

The Breast Work for the QuarterDeck
 
This structure complements the Breast Work on the Fo'c'sle, but entails a bit more decoration on the stanchions, along with some sheaves.   As FFM states, It's worth taking a bit of time on this, because it really does add to the architectural beauty of the Swans.
 
The kit's plans show that the Breast work is 5/8" high.  I chose to start with 1/8" square boxwood for the stanchions.  I worked out a diagram that divided the length to allow for the curved part, the mortise for the lower rail, and the double sheaves at the bottom.  Then I turned the curved section on the lathe (FFM warns that it is virtually impossible to replicate the design exactly over five stanchions -- and that is very true, but at 1:64 I'm not terribly sure the differences are glaring).
 

 
Next I cut the slots on all four sides to create the tenons on which the bottom rail will fit.  Using the mill, I cut 1/32" on each side.
 

Using the kit's plans to determine the spacing of the stanchions, I marked a strip of 3/16" boxwood, and cut out the mortises, first using the jeweller's saw to make the cross cut, and then a 1/16" chisel to snip out the waste along the grain.
 

Back to the mill, I next drilled the sheaves.
 

Because these are double sheaves, they take up quite a bit of room.  I used my smallest cutter, and still the holes are pretty sizeable, leaving very little wood.  I cut a vertical groove in one pair of holes (not visible in the picture), and it removed so much wood that I worried about everything collapsing.
 
Along all the bottoms, I also cut a tenon to fit into the deck, but forgot to take a picture.  Fitting required paring out some space in the upward curve of the breast beam, then drilling a good sized hole to accommodate the tenon.  Since this structure could be holding some rigging, I wanted it set solidly into the deck.
 
Then, using the same strategy I followed on the Fo'c'sle to get the rail together (a strategy from FFM -- of course!), I put the back part of the rail on, let the glue dry over night, then put the thin front part in place. 
 

 
All the edges of the rail have moulding scraped into them.
 
And finally the top rail.  Again I used 3/16" boxwood, the same width as the lower rail.  And to simulate the through tenons, I drilled holes that I squared with a small chisel, then glued in 1/16" square boxwood.
 
Here are a few views:
 

 

 
My one concern is that this comes in a bit high -- it's a bit under 7/8", and with my own metallic Captain off in the ship-yard taverns, I can't use any figure to judge whether the difference is damning or not.  I'll stare at it a few days, and hope that some of you will weigh in.
 
Cbeers,
 
Martin

Really nice Mobbsie, I was not even aware of this kit until your build so nice to see something different, the stand is really subtle and discrete, love it.
 
As for the ensign, think you're good with the red duster as red, white and blue would still have been in use - and I believe the red was used for HM ships under admiralty orders, which I suspect a harbor gun boat would be....
 
Will look great anyway whichever way you go!

Really nice Mobbsie, I was not even aware of this kit until your build so nice to see something different, the stand is really subtle and discrete, love it.
 
As for the ensign, think you're good with the red duster as red, white and blue would still have been in use - and I believe the red was used for HM ships under admiralty orders, which I suspect a harbor gun boat would be....
 
Will look great anyway whichever way you go!

Really nice Mobbsie, I was not even aware of this kit until your build so nice to see something different, the stand is really subtle and discrete, love it.
 
As for the ensign, think you're good with the red duster as red, white and blue would still have been in use - and I believe the red was used for HM ships under admiralty orders, which I suspect a harbor gun boat would be....
 
Will look great anyway whichever way you go!

Really nice Mobbsie, I was not even aware of this kit until your build so nice to see something different, the stand is really subtle and discrete, love it.
 
As for the ensign, think you're good with the red duster as red, white and blue would still have been in use - and I believe the red was used for HM ships under admiralty orders, which I suspect a harbor gun boat would be....
 
Will look great anyway whichever way you go!

Really nice Mobbsie, I was not even aware of this kit until your build so nice to see something different, the stand is really subtle and discrete, love it.
 
As for the ensign, think you're good with the red duster as red, white and blue would still have been in use - and I believe the red was used for HM ships under admiralty orders, which I suspect a harbor gun boat would be....
 
Will look great anyway whichever way you go!

Hope this is temporary also,  I have had nothing but exceptional service from Crown in the past and hope that nothing serious has occurred.

Really nice Mobbsie, I was not even aware of this kit until your build so nice to see something different, the stand is really subtle and discrete, love it.
 
As for the ensign, think you're good with the red duster as red, white and blue would still have been in use - and I believe the red was used for HM ships under admiralty orders, which I suspect a harbor gun boat would be....
 
Will look great anyway whichever way you go!