Beef Wellington

I think the specific problem though is that the beams really hinder the ability to fair the interior face.  Is it possible to mount and fair as you go, e.g starting midships and adding a couple of frames immediately fore and aft and fair these, then add a few more.  The access will diminish, but there would theoretically be less and less to fine at each step.

I think the specific problem though is that the beams really hinder the ability to fair the interior face.  Is it possible to mount and fair as you go, e.g starting midships and adding a couple of frames immediately fore and aft and fair these, then add a few more.  The access will diminish, but there would theoretically be less and less to fine at each step.

I think the specific problem though is that the beams really hinder the ability to fair the interior face.  Is it possible to mount and fair as you go, e.g starting midships and adding a couple of frames immediately fore and aft and fair these, then add a few more.  The access will diminish, but there would theoretically be less and less to fine at each step.

I think the specific problem though is that the beams really hinder the ability to fair the interior face.  Is it possible to mount and fair as you go, e.g starting midships and adding a couple of frames immediately fore and aft and fair these, then add a few more.  The access will diminish, but there would theoretically be less and less to fine at each step.

good afternoon
 
well i managed the painting without making a meal of it  but did all three colours twice. but very little clean up required and im quite happy how it turned out
the deck has also been put on, fitting without any issue

Bunches of frames made. I got all of what the instructions call "orthogonal frames" made (I don't normally build POF, so I might get the jargon wrong). There are still some stern cant frames to build (#27 in the photo is one such frame), but at this point the instructions say to mount the orthogonal frames to the keel. The instructions don't say anything about beveling the inboard sides of these frames, but it seems logical to do at least a preliminary sanding to these before mounting them; afterwards, they will be difficult to access. Thoughts?
 

I have a nice little collection of frames going.
 

 
Like most repetitive tasks, I'm discovering some techniques that make the assembly process go a bit quicker.
 
One thing for potential builders to look out for is that between frames 9 and 10, the transverse beam shifts from spanning the short pair of futtocks to the longer pair. This is due to the positioning of the gun ports.
 

 
Back to work!
 
 

Thank you, Rob
 
And a couple of studding sails... I've discovered that sewing sails is actually really really relaxing (except for when I'm stabbing myself with dress-making pins!)...  I can strongly recommend this as an enjoyable part of making the model. The plans include complex instructions for hemming the corners - due to the relatively coarse nature of the sail cloth, I have found it to be far too apt to fray for this to be possible (there's nothing left to sew that close to the edge of the fabric). Once the hems are done it all becomes much more manageable. Others with more experience of this may have excellent suggestions as to how this can be avoided. But I'm pleased with the results I'm getting, and as always, though I may not be able to reproduce them exactly they plans themselves are works of art, which I shall enjoy long after I've finished this model.
 
Care has to be taken with the studding sails (which are RH and LH), to ensure the hems are put on the back of the sail, and you don't end up with two RH or two LH! I've avoided this frustration so far...  Check twice, sew once, is the order of the day  
 
Happy building, all.
 
Rob
 

Just a very brief update - I've completed hemming the foremast course, lower and upper topsails, topgallant and royal... so here it is - the pyramid of sail...  

More soon  
 
Rob

Section 20, Frames. Some of the frames sit at an angle (cant frame) and therefore angles need to be introduced, looking at the plans parts 53# they are made of 2 pieces, the lower one has the angle. Trying to sand this by hand for me, not a good idea. So I decided to use a milling head of a Lathe\mill, the angle I took off the plans was 60° I bought an angled machine vice £49 from well known online retailer, It is cast iron (I think) with a milled flat bottom, The piece was loaded and the angle was set for 30° because the mill was at 90°. I levelled the piece by eye using the laser burn line and slowly took of a small amount every pass. Used a small Dremmal type bit. The result looks good, but we will see when come to fit with the other parts. This will be good practice as other parts have 2 angles to join pieces together. One of the pics shows 40° it was cut at 30°.

I'll do a proper update this weekend, but here's a quick phone photo of the coppered and trimmed hull.
 
Other work I've been doing is finishing up the 24' cutter, painting the timberhead rails and building channels...as well as many other things. She will come together pretty quickly, but I do need to protect this copper from tarnishing.
 

 

Love it, love it, love it.  You've excelled yourself on the period feel once again, well worth the effort!

You have a very fine model coming together here Brian.  Especially like your photos of the stern, the colour combination is very pleasing to my eye!  Will be following along from here...

Thank you Hakan, James, and Allan, and for  those who have looked in and 'liked'
 
Post Twenty-six
The chemical blackening didn’t work on these metal figures, so priming and painting was necessary.
I have decided to paint the figures in life colours albeit using a muted palette. More fiddly and time-consuming than simple silhouette painting, but I though it better suited the overall effect.
Admirals and Captains were known to kit out their boat crews in matching clothing, and sometimes headwear, all at their own expense.

9865
I started with blue shirt tops, but had some doubts, so I changed to a natural undyed colour which I like much better.

9879(2)
This also accords with the contemporary models.

9875(2)
The crew need fixing to the thwarts to provide stability when arranging the oars, I used spots of ca for the purpose.

9872(2)
Altho’ the barge is set up for twelve oarsmen I have settled for ten, which I think is the most aesthetically pleasing. The foremost position is very cramped, and the aftermost involves the oarsman sitting in the stern sheets.

9874(2)

9871(2)
 
An Admirals Barge need an Admiral, and this will be the next task.
 
B.E.
02/01/2023

Wonderful detailing David, looks great.  I do dislike the supplied funnel, 2lbs of poorly defined white metal, but you've managed to get it looking good.

I thought I would start a new thread, as the original was getting a little too big.
 
OK, for at least the next 5 years, I have my developments more or less already mapped out. The subjects cover a wide range of vessels from the 17th to early 19th Century.
 
For 2023, I have three confirmed. The first is Indy (of course). I may add as an optional extra cistern/chain pump housings. This has been my largest development to date, taking well over a year of full time work, and having Jim make the prototype and taking the manual photo pics and text. If I were to do this, then Indy would have been a 2 year development.
 
After Indy, I will have the American schooner Grecian (1812) almost ready, which I anticipate releasing in April/May. I have almost finished the mast and rig drawings, and profiles, so this may come together pretty quickly once Indy is released. 
From Wiki:
 
Thomas Kemp of Baltimore designed Grecian with several innovations. She was pierced for 20 guns, though she never carried that many, and her gunports were unique, designed perhaps to save weight. She had a long, curving stem, and a shallow, less convex bow. Grecian's first captain was James Phillips, and under him she had made one voyage to France. She received letter of marque No. 944 in December 1813, under Captain Knapp.
 
Not sure how much of that can be trusted, though, as she was not pierced for 20 guns, she has 18, with the fore-most being next to useless due to the distance between port and starboard (very sharp bow, so 7 per side being usable, in my opinion). It seems she had a mix of guns, being more standardised when in the British navy. What I have done is give enough guns for carronades, 6 and 4 pounders. I am sure the 4 pounders were used at the front, due to space issues, with the 6 pounders being nearer the middle and rear - so the modeller will have a choice of what to fit where.
 
After this, I will start on HMS Surprise, and this should be released this year, assuming all goes well.
 
And that's it for now....
 
ETA - My real love is frigates, as I have said before. If I had my way completely, the next five or six releases would be frigates from 32 guns upwards! But I cannot....

Jeff, I'm not familiar with Badger, but there are plenty of Badger logs on the site for you to reference which would likely be of value.  The construction method you reference is pretty common to all Caldercraft (and other kits).  You'll be surprised at the strength of the final hull once the second planking has been installed, and especially after the additional interior planking has been attached.  Just be sure to get a good glue bond between the ply template and the limewood first planking edges.  I have found that a SMALL amount of PVA glue on the bulkhead extensions can help ensure these stay positioned appropriately   Personally, I've never found a use for the pins, but many people here seem to use them.
 
BTW - welcome to MSW, and I'd strongly suggest starting a build log, photos are a big help to others to help you, and you will get plenty of good advice and support.

Glad you've started a build log MM, this is a particularly intriguing kit.  Look forward to seeing your progress.

Glad you've started a build log MM, this is a particularly intriguing kit.  Look forward to seeing your progress.

Wonderful detailing David, looks great.  I do dislike the supplied funnel, 2lbs of poorly defined white metal, but you've managed to get it looking good.

At last time to get started. HMS Granado full kit by CAF. There has been much discussion about kits and cost etc and yes in the UK, total is over £1000.00 but looking at all the parts supplied and remember all of the work gone in to produce the kit then in my opinion it’s worth it. Box 1 arrived in a week, that's good, no damage.
Wood looks good with a slight variated in colour remember this is a natural product and will have colour variations. The instructions are in pictograph form with the odd text and quite understandable (it is helpful if you understand ship terms and building. Anatomy of Ships, Model shipwright, SeaWatch books SOS plus others are a good source of information & knowledge. There is a good video series on the HMS Thorn from the Swann practicum model built by K Kenny, a 1/48 scratch built model.
1/48 is the scale used for the old Navy board models in the UK with ships built with metric (France, Spain, Sweden etc) were 1/50. So CAF use 1/48 for the kit, this means a good level of detail can be achieved even by beginners like me.

With any model the first thing is the base. I have decided to use a portable base as the model may get moved space is a little tight. Found a good board but added extra battens underneath to give extra rigidity. Started by gluing C4 C5 & C6 together then once dry added the first of the top layer C1. This C1 was slightly warped, glued it down clamped down overnight and perfect. Added C2 then C3 to give a straight completed base.

The Keel
In the instructions there is a hint in pictures of a false keel yet construction within the building frame has no direct reference to a false keel. So once the keel, stem & stern post are complete may introduce a false keel unless I find reference to it in box 2 or 3 which have now arrived

Wonderful detailing David, looks great.  I do dislike the supplied funnel, 2lbs of poorly defined white metal, but you've managed to get it looking good.

Wonderful detailing David, looks great.  I do dislike the supplied funnel, 2lbs of poorly defined white metal, but you've managed to get it looking good.

Still working on the forecastle. One of the remaining pieces of the puzzle is the funnel for the stove. I used the kit supplied parts for this but modified the fixing element for the baffle plate. I used 1mm diameter brass tube to accept a 0.5mm brass rod fixed on either side of the baffle plate. I then added some 0.5mm brass rod details and painted it black to finish off. I found I had to add an additional spacer at the base as I suspect that my custom stove was sitting at a slightly lower level than the kit part. I installed timber around the base and added a flange by cutting out a disk from some photographic paper I had lying around and then painting black.
 




I added the cat block on the plansheer. I milled this out of some 4 x 3.5mm walnut. I didn't really have a plan for this and just made some fairly arbitrary moves with the mill to take some material off the one end. The sheave was cut out of a 4mm diameter brass rod with a 0.5mm diameter brass rod as the axle. It could actually rotate if enough force was applied. Compared to the kit part it is a slight improvement but still looks a bit clumsy to my eye.
 




In a flurry of finishing activity I installed the ringbolts in the deck for the canon relieving tackle. I also put in the ringbolts around the mast collar.
 

I installed the previously constructed rigging timber heads and then remade the fore jeer and fore topsail sheet bitts, which I had said I wasn't going to do, to include the triple sheave at the base. This was done using a 0.6mm mill bit to give me enough room to fit the 3 slots in. I added a styrene collar around the base to try and improve the junction between the bitt and the deck.
 


 

The forecastle is nearly there though I have still to rig the guns but before I do that, I have to get round to painting the barrels however in the spirit of procrastination I am moving back to the quarterdeck to finish of some of the structures there instead. I still have the barricade, the capstan, the taffarel fife rail and a myriad of eyebolts still to install. I cannot say that I am enthusiastic about any of these as they are all quite problematic in their own right except for the eyebolts.