Beef Wellington

If you keep it as it is you shouldn't encounter any problems in future stages of rigging...
 
...but, personally, I would move the the futtock stave to keep everything looking consistent.  I feel that I've spent so much time and effort on my model already that I know that I would be very unsatisfied at the end if I let something go that I know I could have fixed.  But that's me...

Great work Per.  Can you disguise the dip with a thin wood strip simulating a batten although probably it will not be seen at all when the deck is installed.  Slightly off topic....think we need to have a 'guess the beverage' break, my first guess would be "The Yamazaki" Single Malt...

Great work Per.  Can you disguise the dip with a thin wood strip simulating a batten although probably it will not be seen at all when the deck is installed.  Slightly off topic....think we need to have a 'guess the beverage' break, my first guess would be "The Yamazaki" Single Malt...

Fantastic work Daniel, goes without saying.  Are you sure you didn't miss anyone?    Great stuff.

Hello,
 
now the bulwark revised edition 2.0 and I hope the last one. The only bad thing about this is, that I could't use the windows again. Some are broken and the rest did't fit. That was a lot of work for nothing. But **** happens! The next windows would be a lot better, because of experience. 
 

 

 

 
Regards,
Siggi

Been busy making the aft bulkhead partition. I won't be making the one further aft for the captain's quarters since I'm not showing that part from the outside.
 
It's pretty fiddly at this scale and I'm not entirely sure I got it right. I will definitely redo the vents in the door windows (one tester done) since I need thinner timbers for that size scale.
 
Just dry-fitted for now.
 

building it up with lime wood on a scrap piece of cutoff ply
 

done minus the vents and door handles. simulated the door openings with a sharp 2B pencil.
 

dry fitted in place. There is a rather unfortunate dip in the decking in the middle, for you hawk-eyed folks out there. 
 
- Per

Wonderful work Siggi, love the first 'eye level' shot.

Very nice wales Mike, looks great.  Definitely agree that its important to get these correctly placed, and I'm mulling over how I want to approach this on 'Jason'.  Looking forward to more planking going on!

A snapshot in brief from my recent activity...
The inwards inclination angles of the futtock shrouds are'nt the same comparing the fore and main mast...
Hope to avoid next steps complications.... 

Hi Stergios, I'm sure you have a lot of distractions, hope you're doing OK and able to find time to continue building your Snake.  Best wishes.

This side now planked between wales,gunports roughed out and given a rough sanding.Final finish sanding a little later when the other side is complete.I am kind of liking the 'clean' look,I may rethink the treenailing
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

I held the tooth picks in my Dremel & sanded them sharp on some sanding sticks- first coarse then fine. Just a dab of glue & stick it in the hole. I snipped them off with fingernail clippers. After sanding them down I am satisfied how they look. I just hope they wont look darker when stained because they show their end grain.
 

Very nice wales Mike, looks great.  Definitely agree that its important to get these correctly placed, and I'm mulling over how I want to approach this on 'Jason'.  Looking forward to more planking going on!

So I finally got the wales done.  I used 2mm pear planks, rather than two separate layers of 1mm planks.  I went ahead and used the planking pattern from TFFM, with a top row of straight planks, and the remaining two rows using top and butt planking.  The Swan class is very curvy, so I took my time with the planks.  All planks were soaked and pinned, and then when dry, beveled (bottom two rows) and shaped to fit (the stem end planks got an initial soaking and drying in the jig I posted earlier).  I originally thought about using the miter jig on my Byrnes table saw to cut the various top and butt planks, but since each of these planks were generally different in sizes and tapers, I cut and sanded them each by hand.
 

 
 
The stern end of the wales is a bit different from the wales on my Badger, which was a single plank and just ended along the side of the ship.  According to TFFM, the bottom aft end of the wales curves around and under the stern a bit.  After a few rounds of soaking and bending, I managed to get the last plank on using 2mm planks.  TFFM suggests, because of the shape, to take a thicker piece of stock and carve and sand it to shape - the approach Martin took on his Fly.  It didn't seem too tough with the 2mm planks.  The space under the planks will be filled when I add the hull planking in the area between the end of the wales and the stern counter.  Here it is after some rough sanding - I plan on eventually sanding it into a more pleasing curved shape.  I left the piece a little longer so it tucks probably a bit more under the stern than it should, but I plan to carve and sand it back probably a little bit.
 

 
 
So the wales are done, with the initial sanding.  Once the hull planking goes on, I'll do a final sanding with finer grades of sandpaper, and work the stern end of the wales a bit more to add a finer curve and end to it.  Took me a lot of time, but I think it's critical to get the wales in the proper position.  I actually redid the first row of the wales when the line wasn't a smooth run between planks.  Was frustrating at the time to do that, but, in the end, I'm glad I took them off and redid them as I think the current wales look a lot better.
 
Now for some fun spiling the lower hull planking!

Cheers Jim and the likes, and thanks Mort - unfortunately I'm way beyond that decision but something to think about for the future...
 
Rigging seems to be a little bit of a neglected area on this site, so wanted to post few pics of progress, for things specific to this kit where may be of help to others and also to hopefully capture where I've deviated from the plans.  Petersson has been INVALUABLE!
 
As a side note, I also nearly had a heart attack when I brought Snake outside for a few photos - I normally work in artificial light in my basement, and the natural light made all sorts of sorts of previously unseen 'fuzzies' VERY apparent.  I vow never to use kit supplied line again, but am committed to making it work here for consistency.  Will probably try brushing on some dilute PVA to try to tame them at some point.
 
I've found the following 3 scenarios to be common:
Plans are not clear - in these cases I've tried to follow Petersson Plans are clear enough and are somewhat consistent with Petersson - in these cases I've followed the plans but tweaked in some cases where it seems to make more sense Plans are clear enough, but differ from Petersson - in these cases I've followed the plans, unless Petersson seems more logical/elegant.  
Foreyard and Fore Topmast
 
Fore yard prior to installation.  Jeers and slings also pre-rigged


 
Foremast installed.  I used thicker line on the jeers (.75mm) as this seemed more in keeping with pictures I've found and attached round the yard following Petersson.   As expected, I found lashing the slings rather challenging.


I found the trusses could be made following plans and Petersson, but was the devil trying to get in place with all pendants and catharpins.  Truss in place (sorry picture is little blurry), I did not even attempt to put in the knave line!

 
Fore-topmast in place.  Found the parrals very fiddly to do, but they can be done according to Petersson.  I gave the parral beads a couple of goes in the drum sander to take off the shine and it gave a very pleasing result.

The fore-topsail yard tie and lifts were taken around the fore-topmast with an eye splice as per Petersson.


Belaying items for the foremast is rather challenging on Snake as the for'd bits are very close to the platform and leaves very little room for maneuver.  I also didn't make this any easier by belaying the hawsers around the bits either.

 
And finally, where things stand currently...I added flemish horses to the fore-topsail which are not identified in the Snake plans, but seem pretty ubiquitous and covered in Lever.

Mike, Jesse, Michael, Joe, Jimz - thanks for kind words and support and all of the likes.
 
Mort - I am so glad you posted!! I had bought some beeswax near the start of the build, of course that was 3yrs ago and I had completely forgotten I had it after putting it at the back of the cabinet.  I undid some of the lines that I could and followed your guidance, it really does help, not just with fuzzies but also makes it easier to work with especially with belaying.  I realized re-looking at the picture that I have to also remind myself that I will not be looking at the model through a microscope, it looks no-where near as bad in person to the unaided eye.
 
Something else I noticed in the photos, some of the footropes are not that even and think I can do better, especially using the beeswax.  Not committing yet, but think there will be redo here as well.

Hi Stergios, I'm sure you have a lot of distractions, hope you're doing OK and able to find time to continue building your Snake.  Best wishes.

And I thought you had very tall sailors, Jason ... just kiddin' ... your work does you honour!

Jason,
 
beautiful rigging at foretop and fore Yards, well done !
 
Nils

Hi Guys,
 
Time for another update.
 
A lot has happened since my last post not least the loss of my pictorial record of the build, it just disappeared. I searched my Laptop to the best of my ability but no luck, fortunately I still have them on my phone but because they had already been downloaded the laptop didn't want to copy the pictures, several hours later I have managed to recover 215 pictures plus the latest photos, I just have to organise them into some sort of order.
 
OK, progress made so-far is as follows:- Waterways ( Box )  are made and fitted, Spirketing ( Redheart ) made and fitted and the Deck Planking ( Holly ) has been laid and drilled out for treenails. The Bulwarks ( Redheart ) have been fitted and made ready for drilling out for the bolts, this will have to wait until the deck is treenailed and given a coat of WOP.
 
I mustn't forget the rings on the hatch have been changed to smaller ones.
 
Time for some pictures I hope.
 
Waterway and Spirketing on the Starboard side

 
The Portside

 
Portside Bulwarks

 
Starboard Bulwarks

 
The deck planks were cut to size and black paper glued to one side for Caulking.

 

 
The first seven planks have been laid, the first plank alongside the waterway required tapering.

 

 
The next three pics are of the completed planking and drilled out ready for the treenails, (a mix of sanding dust).

 

 

 
So that's where I am at the moment, still behind the boss and nowhere near catching up, I have been busy watching the cricket though, oooops.
 
That's it for now gents, any and all comments, remarks and criticisms are welcome. 
 
Be Good
 
mobbsie
 
 
 
 
 

Work goes on in different positions.
 
I made a simple template to drill the holes for the ringbolts for rigging the carronades and finished the empty gun ports. Also the coppering of the rudder goes on - it's a bit complicated because every plate is bent around the backside and must be cut to size.
 
The Work on the boat continues as well.
 
While touching up the paintwork of the hull I came across another problem: The scuppers.
There are a bit too many on the plans. Comparable vessels in my clever book show only two to three per side. But the main problem is that they are positioned much too low - below the wales.  The position is given by their function - they lead water from the waterways overboard. And in all examples I found in my sources they were always above the wales. Drilling an experimental hole from the waterways outboard ended in the upper, less prominent wale. I didn't want to weak a wale by drilling holes through it but I had no choice. But by having only two scuppers per side in approximately the right position seemed an acceptable compromise.
I don't know if there are mistakes in the plans about the relative heights of deck and whales ( the deck should be 5mm higher over them) or if my solution is a correct one. Changing the build to have the scuppers completely above the wales would be very difficult and alter the whole hull.
For scuppers I used again my 'Ader-Endhülsen' (wire-end-sleeves?) from the electric department. They are made from aluminium and painted copper.
 

template
 
 

finished empty gun ports
 

scuppers

Cheers Jim and the likes, and thanks Mort - unfortunately I'm way beyond that decision but something to think about for the future...
 
Rigging seems to be a little bit of a neglected area on this site, so wanted to post few pics of progress, for things specific to this kit where may be of help to others and also to hopefully capture where I've deviated from the plans.  Petersson has been INVALUABLE!
 
As a side note, I also nearly had a heart attack when I brought Snake outside for a few photos - I normally work in artificial light in my basement, and the natural light made all sorts of sorts of previously unseen 'fuzzies' VERY apparent.  I vow never to use kit supplied line again, but am committed to making it work here for consistency.  Will probably try brushing on some dilute PVA to try to tame them at some point.
 
I've found the following 3 scenarios to be common:
Plans are not clear - in these cases I've tried to follow Petersson Plans are clear enough and are somewhat consistent with Petersson - in these cases I've followed the plans but tweaked in some cases where it seems to make more sense Plans are clear enough, but differ from Petersson - in these cases I've followed the plans, unless Petersson seems more logical/elegant.  
Foreyard and Fore Topmast
 
Fore yard prior to installation.  Jeers and slings also pre-rigged


 
Foremast installed.  I used thicker line on the jeers (.75mm) as this seemed more in keeping with pictures I've found and attached round the yard following Petersson.   As expected, I found lashing the slings rather challenging.


I found the trusses could be made following plans and Petersson, but was the devil trying to get in place with all pendants and catharpins.  Truss in place (sorry picture is little blurry), I did not even attempt to put in the knave line!

 
Fore-topmast in place.  Found the parrals very fiddly to do, but they can be done according to Petersson.  I gave the parral beads a couple of goes in the drum sander to take off the shine and it gave a very pleasing result.

The fore-topsail yard tie and lifts were taken around the fore-topmast with an eye splice as per Petersson.


Belaying items for the foremast is rather challenging on Snake as the for'd bits are very close to the platform and leaves very little room for maneuver.  I also didn't make this any easier by belaying the hawsers around the bits either.

 
And finally, where things stand currently...I added flemish horses to the fore-topsail which are not identified in the Snake plans, but seem pretty ubiquitous and covered in Lever.

Mike, Jesse, Michael, Joe, Jimz - thanks for kind words and support and all of the likes.
 
Mort - I am so glad you posted!! I had bought some beeswax near the start of the build, of course that was 3yrs ago and I had completely forgotten I had it after putting it at the back of the cabinet.  I undid some of the lines that I could and followed your guidance, it really does help, not just with fuzzies but also makes it easier to work with especially with belaying.  I realized re-looking at the picture that I have to also remind myself that I will not be looking at the model through a microscope, it looks no-where near as bad in person to the unaided eye.
 
Something else I noticed in the photos, some of the footropes are not that even and think I can do better, especially using the beeswax.  Not committing yet, but think there will be redo here as well.

Cheers Jim and the likes, and thanks Mort - unfortunately I'm way beyond that decision but something to think about for the future...
 
Rigging seems to be a little bit of a neglected area on this site, so wanted to post few pics of progress, for things specific to this kit where may be of help to others and also to hopefully capture where I've deviated from the plans.  Petersson has been INVALUABLE!
 
As a side note, I also nearly had a heart attack when I brought Snake outside for a few photos - I normally work in artificial light in my basement, and the natural light made all sorts of sorts of previously unseen 'fuzzies' VERY apparent.  I vow never to use kit supplied line again, but am committed to making it work here for consistency.  Will probably try brushing on some dilute PVA to try to tame them at some point.
 
I've found the following 3 scenarios to be common:
Plans are not clear - in these cases I've tried to follow Petersson Plans are clear enough and are somewhat consistent with Petersson - in these cases I've followed the plans but tweaked in some cases where it seems to make more sense Plans are clear enough, but differ from Petersson - in these cases I've followed the plans, unless Petersson seems more logical/elegant.  
Foreyard and Fore Topmast
 
Fore yard prior to installation.  Jeers and slings also pre-rigged


 
Foremast installed.  I used thicker line on the jeers (.75mm) as this seemed more in keeping with pictures I've found and attached round the yard following Petersson.   As expected, I found lashing the slings rather challenging.


I found the trusses could be made following plans and Petersson, but was the devil trying to get in place with all pendants and catharpins.  Truss in place (sorry picture is little blurry), I did not even attempt to put in the knave line!

 
Fore-topmast in place.  Found the parrals very fiddly to do, but they can be done according to Petersson.  I gave the parral beads a couple of goes in the drum sander to take off the shine and it gave a very pleasing result.

The fore-topsail yard tie and lifts were taken around the fore-topmast with an eye splice as per Petersson.


Belaying items for the foremast is rather challenging on Snake as the for'd bits are very close to the platform and leaves very little room for maneuver.  I also didn't make this any easier by belaying the hawsers around the bits either.

 
And finally, where things stand currently...I added flemish horses to the fore-topsail which are not identified in the Snake plans, but seem pretty ubiquitous and covered in Lever.

Mike, Jesse, Michael, Joe, Jimz - thanks for kind words and support and all of the likes.
 
Mort - I am so glad you posted!! I had bought some beeswax near the start of the build, of course that was 3yrs ago and I had completely forgotten I had it after putting it at the back of the cabinet.  I undid some of the lines that I could and followed your guidance, it really does help, not just with fuzzies but also makes it easier to work with especially with belaying.  I realized re-looking at the picture that I have to also remind myself that I will not be looking at the model through a microscope, it looks no-where near as bad in person to the unaided eye.
 
Something else I noticed in the photos, some of the footropes are not that even and think I can do better, especially using the beeswax.  Not committing yet, but think there will be redo here as well.