Beef Wellington

Mort - great tip, I didn't know that about the school glue just being diluted PVA - not sure what I thought it was    Will be great to meet you.
 
Anyway...Catharpin'ing on....
 
Catharpins have been something else I've been pondering.  The Snake plans just seem horribly inconsistent with other materials (Lever, Pederson etc) so decided to follow those.  Lever identifies a number of methods, desperately wanted to go the cross-catharpin route, but Lever seems to indicate that even when this was done, it was in addition to the regular catharpins, not in place of.  So, the bog standard approach it will be.  
 
Mk1 Catharpin.  Of course, catharpins were eye-spliced at either end and served...(has anyone been diagnosed with compulsive 'serving' disorder?   )

 
...and lashed into place temporarily it seems to work just fine.  Although the detail of the eye splice is somewhat lost, it does give a cleaner look (IMHO) than lashing the catharpin around the futtock stave.  I was a little relieved to see that the second shroud can be catharpined in without rubbing against the mast as Lever suggest only the foremost shroud was not catharpined in.  I feel scale is a little bit of an issue, it would be nice to be doing the same on a larger ship so the imperfections are perhaps a little less noticeable.

Andy, BE, Scott, Matti, Stergios, Pawel, John - thanks again for the interest and kind words
 
Final stages of the ratlines are on hold for a bit - I'm out of thread and it seems that what I'm looking to replace can't be found anywhere local so had to resort to the internet.  Meanwhile, my attention has moved to something that I've been thinking about for a while...the futtock strops.  The kit supplies some rather pathetic cut loops, the same as provided for the larger deadeye strops.  I can't see how they could possibly work as the bottom doesn't even clear the thickness of the top.  I'd also like to to get s slightly more authentic look with a hook for the futtock shrouds, which seems to leave two options, make something out of wire, or thread.  I tried both.  Any other ideas would be welcome.
 
Meanwhile as I ponder, I'll turn to making up the topgallant masts.
 
Wire was easiest to make, but not completely sold on the look

 
Thread took an age, maybe looks a little better, but I'm not sure how sturdy this would be (it broke as I removed it after the photo)

Mort - great tip, I didn't know that about the school glue just being diluted PVA - not sure what I thought it was    Will be great to meet you.
 
Anyway...Catharpin'ing on....
 
Catharpins have been something else I've been pondering.  The Snake plans just seem horribly inconsistent with other materials (Lever, Pederson etc) so decided to follow those.  Lever identifies a number of methods, desperately wanted to go the cross-catharpin route, but Lever seems to indicate that even when this was done, it was in addition to the regular catharpins, not in place of.  So, the bog standard approach it will be.  
 
Mk1 Catharpin.  Of course, catharpins were eye-spliced at either end and served...(has anyone been diagnosed with compulsive 'serving' disorder?   )

 
...and lashed into place temporarily it seems to work just fine.  Although the detail of the eye splice is somewhat lost, it does give a cleaner look (IMHO) than lashing the catharpin around the futtock stave.  I was a little relieved to see that the second shroud can be catharpined in without rubbing against the mast as Lever suggest only the foremost shroud was not catharpined in.  I feel scale is a little bit of an issue, it would be nice to be doing the same on a larger ship so the imperfections are perhaps a little less noticeable.

The fun stuff.
Small details that were left unfinished earlier.  The chain from the spectacle plate acted to  secure the rudder when it was unshipped as well as provide another method for emergency steering.  The end was left free to avoid interference with the gun port lids.
 

 
A hook connecting the chain with the line (made from an eyelet).
 

 
Lashing the hook
 

 
28 G. dark annealed wire through a hole in the channel, to allow seizing the line at the eye formed in the wire, and to act as a messenger to pull the line up to the channel.
 

Hi Jason,
 
I will be at the Joint Clubs Meeting. I have been to 6 of the last 7 - I missed last year. Look forward to meeting you. I will bring pictures of my Snake.
 
I plan to beeswax the unseized portions of the standing rigging. I brushed Elmer's School Glue on the seized portions - which is Elmer's White Glue already diluted and was very satisfied with the results.
 
 Be Well,
Mort 

Making hooks with the 2mm photo etch "eyebolts" definitely gives a smaller hook (its what I used) than with the 3mm wire kit supplied ones - they come in sets of 250 from CMB.

Yes - those are the ones, got my sizes all mixed up!

Andy, BE, Scott, Matti, Stergios, Pawel, John - thanks again for the interest and kind words
 
Final stages of the ratlines are on hold for a bit - I'm out of thread and it seems that what I'm looking to replace can't be found anywhere local so had to resort to the internet.  Meanwhile, my attention has moved to something that I've been thinking about for a while...the futtock strops.  The kit supplies some rather pathetic cut loops, the same as provided for the larger deadeye strops.  I can't see how they could possibly work as the bottom doesn't even clear the thickness of the top.  I'd also like to to get s slightly more authentic look with a hook for the futtock shrouds, which seems to leave two options, make something out of wire, or thread.  I tried both.  Any other ideas would be welcome.
 
Meanwhile as I ponder, I'll turn to making up the topgallant masts.
 
Wire was easiest to make, but not completely sold on the look

 
Thread took an age, maybe looks a little better, but I'm not sure how sturdy this would be (it broke as I removed it after the photo)

Thanks for all the likes and comments, definitely keeps one going.
 
Just a few progress pics on the ratlines.  Judging from the majority of comments, these seem to be one of the most disliked steps and maybe one of the last major hurdles for a first build (after planking, coppering, rigging carronades).  All said, I'm pleasantly surprised and actually finding this a quite enjoyable.  But lets be clear, my results are far from perfect, but passable I think.  Obviously work still to do.  Although natural line seems to be in vogue, found this a little distracting so went with black glacee thread close to the needed dimension.  Overall, pretty happy for a first effort.
 
Lessons learned for next time:
Masts and shrouds should be built and mocked up prior to identifying the line of the chains.  Not too noticeable, but my 'rough and ready' method didn't take account of the actual lie of the shrouds over the tops and resulted in some of the chains not lining up as well as could be with final shroud placement I hate to blame materials, but I suspect that aftermarket ropes would result in big visual improvements and build enjoyment vs the standard supplied stuff which never seems consistent in size, shape or 'roughness'.  My mind is absolutely made up that additional cost is probably worth it. The tops and the channels are not parallel, although it looks best (IMHO) if the ratlines are parallel to the top and the channel where they meet, its pretty simple to slightly adjust the ratlines to achieve this in between.  
4mm spare walnut strips were used to 'clamp' the shrouds and provide the correct spacing (found that sitting these on top of the knots below and tying next set on top resulted in the almost exact spacing needed.  This technique helped a lot!

 
Overhand knots were used on first and final shroud as these seemed least bulky, I just couldn't get the cow hitch to work well for me, maybe next time...Snakes's channels are mounted very high so a ratline is needed right on top of the deadeyes.  This means that deadeye lashings make most sense 'sitting' on top of the deadeyes as I've seen in a few photos of the real thing (not prettily lashed to the shroud).  I also wanted to try and get a little natural sag into these, results are proving to be mixed, but adjusting is easy once in place to try to get close to desired look.
 
 
And the current state...quite the mess with all the untrimmed ends

Looking great Eamon, I think the plank tapering Nigel suggests is well worth it, you've done such a grand job already on the top planks.  Try to enjoy it, bizarrely I'm looking forward to my next planking challenge, whatever that proves to be 
 
As for the rubber bands, down with this sort of thing!

Looking great Eamon, I think the plank tapering Nigel suggests is well worth it, you've done such a grand job already on the top planks.  Try to enjoy it, bizarrely I'm looking forward to my next planking challenge, whatever that proves to be 
 
As for the rubber bands, down with this sort of thing!

@ Buck
 
Hi Buck,
Thank you for asking about me, Thank God I am fine.
It's pleasure to be remembered my friend...
I have changed my residence and begun to live in a rented flat. For now, Berlin is staying in my oldie house.
 
 
@ wq3296
 
Thank you wq3296 for your kind words. The ship vocabulary is another and wide world. I have a little knowledge about it. But day by day I am learning. Now it's another word: whipstaff... Thank you again.
For Corel, I love the quality of the wood but have some doubts about scales.
I would be happy if you could show your Berlin at MSW. She will be a source of inspiration.
 
 
@ Keith
  Wish I'll be here...
Thank you Keith for asking how I am. Thank God I am fine. I had thought that it had to be a momentary lapse of building but unfortunately it dragged on...
 
 
@ Augie, Sjors, Popeye,
    (and updated) Mark, Jason, Michael, Doreltomin
 
Thank you for your kind contribution and agreement with Buck and Kieth...

A couple of bits of walnut offcuts from the kit were laminated together and cut to shape for the upper head rails.
The shape was marked off the cardboard templates and the outline cut. First the outside then the inside.

 

 
Constant checking ensured a reasonably snug fit to the hull, the cat head and a consistent curve. A Dremel with a sanding head followed by files and sandpaper was used to shape the piece. Notches were cut in the sheer rail and lower profiled strip on the hull to accommodate the head rail/cathead knee.
It's quite a complex curve and I was going to do it in two pieces to have a better chance of success but this seems to have come out ok. A profile will be cut into the front once the other piece is shaped up.

I'd laminated some profiled strip to the front face of the cheeks below the head rails in a burst of activity a few months back.
The lamination lines were still visible and not that flash so some new upper and lower cheeks were knocked up from offcuts of the kit walnut cut and shaped to fit.

 
The upper cheeks were made in two pieces with the join on one side.
The profile was made with a file as per the others on a ship. The timber was varnished and the blue painted in and tidied up with a blade.
 

 

 
The join between the upper cheeks and the head rail will be hidden by the gammoning holding the bowsprit down.

Andy, BE, Scott, Matti, Stergios, Pawel, John - thanks again for the interest and kind words
 
Final stages of the ratlines are on hold for a bit - I'm out of thread and it seems that what I'm looking to replace can't be found anywhere local so had to resort to the internet.  Meanwhile, my attention has moved to something that I've been thinking about for a while...the futtock strops.  The kit supplies some rather pathetic cut loops, the same as provided for the larger deadeye strops.  I can't see how they could possibly work as the bottom doesn't even clear the thickness of the top.  I'd also like to to get s slightly more authentic look with a hook for the futtock shrouds, which seems to leave two options, make something out of wire, or thread.  I tried both.  Any other ideas would be welcome.
 
Meanwhile as I ponder, I'll turn to making up the topgallant masts.
 
Wire was easiest to make, but not completely sold on the look

 
Thread took an age, maybe looks a little better, but I'm not sure how sturdy this would be (it broke as I removed it after the photo)

Andy, BE, Scott, Matti, Stergios, Pawel, John - thanks again for the interest and kind words
 
Final stages of the ratlines are on hold for a bit - I'm out of thread and it seems that what I'm looking to replace can't be found anywhere local so had to resort to the internet.  Meanwhile, my attention has moved to something that I've been thinking about for a while...the futtock strops.  The kit supplies some rather pathetic cut loops, the same as provided for the larger deadeye strops.  I can't see how they could possibly work as the bottom doesn't even clear the thickness of the top.  I'd also like to to get s slightly more authentic look with a hook for the futtock shrouds, which seems to leave two options, make something out of wire, or thread.  I tried both.  Any other ideas would be welcome.
 
Meanwhile as I ponder, I'll turn to making up the topgallant masts.
 
Wire was easiest to make, but not completely sold on the look

 
Thread took an age, maybe looks a little better, but I'm not sure how sturdy this would be (it broke as I removed it after the photo)

Pat, I had the same question and this is how I interpreted the things I saw in various rigging books.  In Lever's book, the pendants are identified as having to go on before the shrouds as they are need to tension them.  What is probably referenced as being 'removeable' would be any blocks attached to the pendants.
 

 
 
 
 
 
 

Jason, what a woderful build! Very classy work. I also love that yóu build with your son. I do the same with my sons. Great times together.
 
 
/Matti

Fine work, congrats Jason !!

Thanks for showing this useful tool to do the ratlines
 
You've reached a nice outcome of your work. Nicely done.
Cheers,
Paweł

that looks like a wonderful way to construct the ratlines, thanks for the photos.

From small acorns..............
 
B.E.

Here's a small update on the jacks:
 
Carving the roman soldiers. The real ones are very corroded and little details can be seen, so I went for a design I liked.
 



 
/Matti

The same wire cutters used on the other brass wire, you do want to be carefull.  Top can then be filed to remove any sharp edges.
 
Hooks are looking good.  If you haven't already, I'd suggest making up one full set and seeing how they look on the carronade.  You don't wan't to make all the hooks and then find they're not going to work.  Its hard to tell the size, but you do want to be careful to ensure the hooks aren't too long otherwise there won't be any space between the blocks.

Sphinx from Alex

Amerigo Vespucci from Schiffebastler

Real de France

Friesland by Dieter

Lady Nelson by Lady Hamilton

Royal Sovereign from AVbiker

Wappen von Hamburg

SMS Trinkstein

As time goes by ...

Prince

America from Werner - I like it, its a plastic kit :-)
Cardboard models

 
What a day!!!

For those, who have access, find plenty-plenty-plenty more pictures at:
http://www.segelschiffsmodellbau.com/t2644f93-RE-Forumstreffen-Sued-Das-Happening.html
 
Cheers, Daniel