Vivian Galad

you know.......it's a good thing I'm not working with dogwood........all this teasing,  and it'd have probably bitten me by now
bada-boom.....bada bing!
 
O...K.....    I already showed you  how the deck is going to mate at the bulkhead and what the bow tip looks like.  with that completed to the point that it is,  I guess the rest of the cross beams need to be installed.   I was able to start this the same way I did the first ones......a piece of stripping leveraged under it to hold it in place.
 

 
figured I'd better get the other half of deck platform cut and notched out
 

 
when it was trimmed well enough,  they were both laid into place,  to see how it would look.   looks like I'll need to compensate the starboard side to match.
 

 
by this time,  all of the other cross beams were installed.   I ran a small strip across the transom,  because the edge was splintered a little........no big reason aside from that.   the center of it will be cut out anyway.
 

 
the rest of the gussets were installed as well
 

 
I did a bit of looking around on line for ideas on the net chute.  most of what I saw,  were models of this vessel,  and the instructions were no help either.  along the transom bulwark,  there are three reels....leading to the thought that there must be an opening further in on the aft deck.  so,  while I'm still looking {I'll check out similar stern trawlers},  I do this and plan a hinged hold cover for it.    I can always change later if need be.   first,  the bottom of the chute was laid in place.
 

 
then the sides were cut out and cemented in place
 

 
now......to wait til it is dry,  so I can shape the outer lip of the chute.   then,  when the deck platform halves are in place,  the roof of the opening can be finished out.   with the inside painted flat black,  one will never know how far in it goes.
 
 

Then I wrap the few inches I let out keeping it tight as I go. Repeating this process till it is finished. Using Fray Check keeps everything in place but still very flexible. If you don't touch it it dries clear. If you rub your fingers across it as it is drying it gives the line a weathered look.  This process actually works pretty well & doesn't take very long.

Ok, here is what I mean by differences between the plan drawings and the provided parts. The first photo shows the false upper quarterdeck laying in place with the piece cut off of it to match the plans.
I trimmed the side edges so it makes a clean fit along the bulwarks and placed the mizzen mast to make sure it is positioned through the hole properly with the correct cant.
The deck is just laying on the frames at this point. According to the plans, the bottom of the forward edge needs to be 23.5mm from the top of the quarterdeck below. A breast beam needs to be fabricated and placed just aft of the edge to support the deck and secure the correct height.
 
Vince P.

Vivian just catching up on your log. Very nice! Makes me want to build one of these one day.

Hey, hey, hey. Time for new pictures, some words and advices for the young at heart.
 
    I took a pause from my ship since I was waiting for the Blacken It to arrive. As it arrived, I resumed my work. For using it the Blacken It Trials topic, by E&T was used. I did follow all the steps only replacing the muriatic acid by vinegar. I was about taking lots of pictures from the process, but, that is really unecessary since the Trials´ topic shows how it works so fine it would be a waste of time. But I do took a picture from a mistake I made...
 

 
That´s how I put the metal pieces on the solution. I tried to shake the solution from time to time, but my results weren´t that great - lot´s of parts were stained - instead of a flat darkened surface, I got a stripe stained one for most of the metal parts. Even if I liked that way it wasn´t my goal they look so. Next time I´ll dump lesser metal parts on blacken it solution for a consistent result.
 
Well, then I started on my ship´s hole, as it'll need some attention before rigging. I worked on taking out the planking around it so when I fix all the eletronics it´ll be easy to glue new planks over it. Now I´m waiting for some copper foil I bought to finish that part.
 

 
After that I coated a second layer of varnish on the hull and a first one over the rails and castle. That was a called step from the ship´s instructions some pages before, but I decided to postpone it while I was still using sharp tools around.
 

 
It was time for the rudder, then. I´m still thinking if I´ll set some brass stripes to it. Some old pictures shows rudders with no iron on them. Seems an obscure subject to build the rudder. So far, I followed the kit´s instructions.
 

 

 
After the rudder I fixed all the metal fittings missing before. Cannons aren´t there yet cause I´ll paint them black - I tried blacken it on them, but didn´t like the results. The following pictures are from the fittings instalation and the ship´s general look so far.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 
Next steps will be the lighting fix finish and rigging beginnings.

Hear ye! Hear ye! News from the realm!!
 
Vivian´s Chinese Junk got new fittings and it´s main mast - read all here!
 
So, as I said, main mast is installed. Some tackles for the rigging are there too - with some small modifications since AL instructions told me to do it differently. Let us go for the pictures.

 

 
Cannons are there too. I was a little skeptical about cannons at first (since I want a ship from about 1420 - 30). Research helped me to decide keeping them - The first guns found in junks wrecks are dated between 1400 - 1420. Laws from 1530+ dictated trade ships could carry 4 mounted guns and an assortment of small guns, for example. As chinese ships were victims of Wako pirates long before, my ship should carry guns for protection from pirate attacks.
 

 
Fixed my anchor, too. I would prefer a different anchor, to be sincere - AL gave me a 2 armed anchor but most of the chinese junk depictions shows 4 armed anchors. As I didn´t find any works regarding the 15th century chinese anchors, I´ll stay with what I´ve got.
 

 

 
And, last but not less important, my battery box for the lighting (part of the switch, too, since to light the cabin one just have to turn the box to one side)
 

 

 

 
[
 
Last picture shows where the box will be. Two copper stripes will be attached to the box botton. Two other stripes will be coming out from the hole fix - as I explained before, to turn on/off you only need to turn the box till it enchase with the copper stripes.
 

Hola, Raymond!
 
   Thank u for your words. I love the stairs, too. Took some pictures from the ship and the hold.
 
Next four pics show the hold with and without the ship.

 

 

 

 
Next 3 pictures shows the ships ladder attached to the port davit amidships closely and a bird´s view from top mast.

 

 

Hans, as I said, I´ll take any gnomes, regardless of color, height, weight, nationality, religion, political view and hobby preferences, since they help with rigging!
;)
 
Sjors, that´s valid to everyone.
 
As for the churrasco, well, that´s a barbecue - brazilian style. Many different types of meat grilled over charcoal - it begun as a gaucho tradition (from the south of our country/continent) and developed into a national passion. Churrascaria is the typical restaurant which serves churrasco. In a churrascaria you eat as much as you can have - meats come at your table every 30 seconds or so. Pictures follow, as solicited (hope everybody be well fed at this moment):
 
The way it´s prepared:

 

 
The way it´s served:

 

 
And the caipirinha, a drink made from pinga (a strong sugar cane spirit), sugar, lemon and ice.

Your Ober looks terrific for your first ship. You have nothing to be ashamed about.
David B

Vivian, The section model is labelled "Midshipmen's training vessel (c. 1750)" 
 
There is a lot more information about this model and a lot of the arsenal models the Madrid museum has in a very nice book they printed "Modelos de Arsenal del Museo Naval". I bought it from the museum for 45 Euro but is also available online at: http://fundacionmuseonaval.com/tienda-on-line/tienda-museo-naval/libreria/catalogos/modelos-de-arsenal-detail. The book is in Spanish but at the end all text is also translated in English. Even so it is worth the money only for the high quality pictures of the models.
 
The same book was also translated in French under the title: "L'Armada - Maquettes du Musée naval de Madrid (XVII-XVIII)" which is available on http://Amazon.fr
 
Hope this info helps you,
Regards
Alexandru

Hello My Friend,
 
The oar holes look great.  
 
I know that you are getting ready to stain and I wanted to tell you about something that I learned the hard way when I stained mine.  I sanded everything in preparation for staining.  The directions on the can made no mention of the grit to be used and I used 400 on the deck.  It looked terrible, the stain would not soak into the wood.  I went to the manufacturer's website and there it stated not to use greater than 180 grit.  I sanded the deck back to bare wood with 180 sandpaper and tried again.  It worked much better and the deck looks great.  
 
This is a little like checking the care instructions after you buy the shirt.  
 
Hang in there buddy, your build has always been an inspiration to me.

The oarholes...
 

 

 

 

 

 

Gunther, sorry for that!
 
Jack, meat is a pleasure nature gives us - pepper and meat together is something deific.
 
Michael, we do have some paradisiac food, and well, maybe some more-than-that drinking . I was raised on a brazilian/russian/italian crossover cultural base and drinking is a fammily problem/matter/thing, truth is I have to hold myself with caipirinhas around :rolleyes: . I´m not the rodeo fan, but we have some good bull raiders in here. And Feijoada is hardcore eating!! Every good brazilian cook has it´s recipe (I do have mine ).
 
Popeye, that's mine too. Either make or eat - but some evil genes get on my way and beauty standards keep me from it as I would like. Well, health is an issue too...
 
Buck, ask about online courses to Sjor´s gnomes :P

Joe, that´s something to do if u really want to give a surprise :P  I have Frank's Red Hot Sauce amongst my pepper sauces. As for tasting food, I can do that even with my peppers - everything hot, though. And I have a portuguese brother in law who can´t take peppers, lol.
 
Hans, that´s some nice way for eating peppers and Thai food also explores the sweet/hot combination. Indonesian food I haven´t experienced yet, and think dutch food also. Nice music you linked and, as far as the Netherlands may be, anytime u´r near, just let me know that I´ll have some spiced food for u.

Hola, Raymond!
 
   Thank u for your words. I love the stairs, too. Took some pictures from the ship and the hold.
 
Next four pics show the hold with and without the ship.

 

 

 

 
Next 3 pictures shows the ships ladder attached to the port davit amidships closely and a bird´s view from top mast.

 

 

Hear ye! Hear ye! News from the realm!!
 
Vivian´s Chinese Junk got new fittings and it´s main mast - read all here!
 
So, as I said, main mast is installed. Some tackles for the rigging are there too - with some small modifications since AL instructions told me to do it differently. Let us go for the pictures.

 

 
Cannons are there too. I was a little skeptical about cannons at first (since I want a ship from about 1420 - 30). Research helped me to decide keeping them - The first guns found in junks wrecks are dated between 1400 - 1420. Laws from 1530+ dictated trade ships could carry 4 mounted guns and an assortment of small guns, for example. As chinese ships were victims of Wako pirates long before, my ship should carry guns for protection from pirate attacks.
 

 
Fixed my anchor, too. I would prefer a different anchor, to be sincere - AL gave me a 2 armed anchor but most of the chinese junk depictions shows 4 armed anchors. As I didn´t find any works regarding the 15th century chinese anchors, I´ll stay with what I´ve got.
 

 

 
And, last but not less important, my battery box for the lighting (part of the switch, too, since to light the cabin one just have to turn the box to one side)
 

 

 

 
[
 
Last picture shows where the box will be. Two copper stripes will be attached to the box botton. Two other stripes will be coming out from the hole fix - as I explained before, to turn on/off you only need to turn the box till it enchase with the copper stripes.
 

So it seems August has been a wash.  However, when I was over in Baltimore visiting my father I was able to get on down to the Naval Academy Museum.  I took lots of good pictures.  Here are just a few.  I didn't use a flash and am going to clean up the pictures a bit but I thought I would show some.  I love this museum.  Such a great place and the new renovation (since I had been there before) is really nice.
 
The museum staff was very helpful as well.
 

 

 

 
And on the first floor I came across this.
 

 
Which leads me to...
 
 
I just got home from a boy scout camporee this weekend with my son.  I wasn't really paying too much attention to where we were going as I had so much to do otherwise.  I looked up the trip info and I googled Put In Bay, Ohio.  Well, well, well. Lots of events commemorating the war 1812 going on all weekend.  Was a great time (other than a bit of rain friday night).
 
Perry's Victory and International Peace Memorial.
 

 
Cannon demonstrations etc.
 

 
The visitors center/gift shop has a pretty nice model completed by Harry Tabb in 1963
 

 
Overall a great 2 weeks in ship modeling hobby.

What??? I cleaned it before taking the photos!!!! 

Hello everyone, hope all y'all are doing fine.
Last evening I tried to add a post with a few pics but the confuser didn't let me.  So, this morning I tried again and wonders will never cease, it let's me write a short post.
 
In any case, I made all three flags for the O19 but am not happy with the way they look.  Even though the hanky cloth is fine it's not fine enough for my scale and the paint job is terrible.  The demarkation lines are not crisp and they are difficult to shape because they are very stiff.   I'll make a trip to Jo-Ann's fabric store in Daytona Beach to see if they have a VERY fine weave cloth - - - whenever Gwen and I need to go there.  It may be soon because I most likely need to see the computer geeks there at BestBuy.  The flags can wait for now.
 
I may wind up making them from paper, who knows. 
 
Soooooohhh, I'll proceed with making the railing stanchions and try to post a few progress report pics.  
 
Here are the pics of the flags so you can see why I'm not in the least happy with them.  
 

Here you can see what I mean, the warp and weave does'n allow me to make crisp lines and in many places it doesn't fill the holes with paint.  If I add more paint then te flags will become as stiff as a plank.  I did touch them up a little more after these pics were taken.  I need to review how Doris does her flags and see if I can mimic hers.  
 

The "Dubbele Prinsen Geus" at the bow.
 

The main ensign aft of the conning tower.
 

The stern flag.
 
Cheers,

Hello Ships88 - nice you have started this model!  I have exactly the same one over here, but will only use the plans because I will scratch this Trireme in a scale of 1:32 
This makes her over 1 meter length.
 
Reason why?  We already have a Bireme in 1: 32 and like to have this Trireme in the same scale.
 
Picture:
 

 
 
You already have done very nice work on your model!
 
 

The oar holes of the Oseberg ship had cuts in them so the sailors could attach the oar from the inside without risking falling into the ocean or dropping the oar into the ocean.
Byt the way, for others researching this, on some sites it is claimed that the oar holes had shutters to prevent water from leaking in. It is correct but this was found on the Gokstad ship, it had the oar holes much lower than the Oseberg.
 

 

 
I have finished this, will post results later, one of the things which i could have done better was the shape of the cuts, mine became triangular because of the tool i used but the cuts are more rektangular.

Thanks vths, Bill, Remco (yes, I found the Masting Plans ), Pat and Julian.
 
Starboard Side Black Strake
 
I've fitted the "black" strake and the one above it to the Port side so that the Chains have something to attach to. I've also finished treenailing both :
 

 

 
  Danny

Whether to impress, drill and fill with coloured wax, or actually treenail is very much a personal preference. If you do some other test pieces using the different techniques you can see which appeals to you best.

Nice song which fits perfectly to this:  Don't fear the reaper - Blue Oyster Cult 
 
Here's a link to Youtube: 
 
And - dear readers - this is it for now - back to the studio- back to Vivian's Red Dragon!

Gunther, sorry for that!
 
Jack, meat is a pleasure nature gives us - pepper and meat together is something deific.
 
Michael, we do have some paradisiac food, and well, maybe some more-than-that drinking . I was raised on a brazilian/russian/italian crossover cultural base and drinking is a fammily problem/matter/thing, truth is I have to hold myself with caipirinhas around :rolleyes: . I´m not the rodeo fan, but we have some good bull raiders in here. And Feijoada is hardcore eating!! Every good brazilian cook has it´s recipe (I do have mine ).
 
Popeye, that's mine too. Either make or eat - but some evil genes get on my way and beauty standards keep me from it as I would like. Well, health is an issue too...
 
Buck, ask about online courses to Sjor´s gnomes :P