CaptMorgan

I've been admiring your work,  It is WAY above and beyond awesome.....    Just sayin....   😃

The hull has now been completed, sanded with 320 grit sandpaper and a light coat of wipe on poly applied.
 

 
 
 
I have also added the outermost floorboards.
 

 
 

I wish you all a happy new year!

Hello Siggi,
a nice model!
I have not decided yet what kind of material I will use.
Here's a first try for the shrouds. In this case, I used a linen rope. I'll do more experiments.

Awesome stuff Rusty.   Keep it up.  I can't get back at the build till February.  At the rate you are going you will be almost done by then.  
You set some nice lofty goals for us to keep with...
Keep up the great work!!!
 

Here is the hull with all the frame tabs removed, the build board flipped over and two pieces of scrap glued to it and the hull fastened to the board.
The reason for fastening the keel to the board was to stop hogging of the hull which I saw with the QAB as I only have minimal planking, maybe not needed with the longboat as the keel is much thicker but I thought I’d stay on the safe side.
 
Maybe get the Caprails installed over the weekend.
 
ben

The diversion to the floorboards continues.
 
The large boards seen in the last post were one piece each. The center board and two outside boards have a rabbet along their edges. 
They were glued together with a rabbet on both sides. The outside planks of the floorboards only have a rabbet on one side so the
inboard side needed to be sanded down to fit.
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

 
I'm back at the rest of the nailing and should be done soon.
 
 

I've started marking off the hull for the nails. With the planks being only 1/32" thick I could put a light on the inboard side and see where the frames are.
 

 

 
Here is the start of the monofilament being placed in the holes after dipped in glue. A single edged razor is used to cut them off after the glue has dried.
I then sanded the nubs with 320 grit sandpaper and applied a coat of wipe on poly.
 
Here the starboard side has been completed.

 
 
 
 

Thanks Joe,
 
With the light shining I would mark each frame. Once they were all marked I would go back and adjust any mark that was out of line.
 
 
Thanks for the kind words Steve. The area that was the most problematic was where the butt joints meet on a single frame. Fortunately if I did drill through the plank and miss a frame most were under the floorboards or seats. If I did go through and I thought it might be seen I pulled the monofilament back flush, sanded off any chips and put a tiny spot of paint on the monofilament making is very hard to see. 
 
 
Hi Rich. I wish I could say that the entire hull was free of any light shining through. I still need to get better. 
 
I got distracted from doing the hull and switched to the floorboards and platforms for a minor diversion.
 



 
Well that's all the fun for today. It's off to the family gathering now. 

Thanks so much OC, Art and the "likes". I will take this opportunity to wish all of you a very happy and enjoyable holiday season.
 
Bob

As your Florida neighbor asks "do you ever sleep". You are a prolific and masterful modeler that makes kit modeling come alive. I am amazed at your and others productivity that seem to produce at "warp speed". In that light we have one group member that starts at about 10:00 at night when the house is quiet. If I started at that time I would likely nod off and hurt myself. Wished I lived closer so I could look over your shoulder to understand your work process.
Joe

I wish you all a happy Christmas

 

Hi all. Just a quick update and a question. I've built all the frames and dry fit everything together. I put the packing tape on the frames for support also. You may notice that I haven't attached the transom yet. I'm going to glue it on while everything is dry fit together on the build board. I thought it would be easier to get it properly aligned and perpendicular to the hull.
 
My question is on the small strip of wood at the top of the frames. Is this added to all frames?
 
 

Thanks Chuck. This is a fun project and I'm feeling good about being in the workshop again.

The ratlines are now complete. Three things are true about doing ratlines: 1) since it is a year or more between times that I do them, I completely forget how to tie clove hitches, and have to look up how to do them each time; 2) once I have tied a few, it's like riding a bike ,and it comes back quickly; and 3) it always feels like I could have, and should have, done them better. Having said all that, I'm happy that they are done and I can move on to more enjoyable things. Time to make , mount and rig some yards.
 
Bob

Looks like you nailed it! Well done. Enjoy the warmth and sun.

The cap rail has been completed, painted, the friezes added and the molding under the frieze scraped to shape and added.
 

 

 

 

 
As you can see there is still some paint touch up needed on the cap rail. Once I'm satisfied the paint is done I'll move on to start the simulated nails on the hull planking.
 
 

The hull is faired; and the frame’s tick marks redone.  So I started planking the hull. So far, I’ve completed 5 strakes.  The strakes have been sanded and have had their first coat of Wipe On Poly.
 

 

 
I should point out that there is a water-based version of Wipe On Poly, as well as a oil based version.  And I feel that the oil based version is far superior. I probably will sand more and add more Wipe On Poly once the remaining 4 strakes are completed.
 

Just a quick update as to show where things are at the moment.  I got the faring of the frames done with no problems.
Then came the beginning of the planking. I managed to break 3 of the planks during the bending/twisting process to get the fits correct. Thanks to Rusty's thread it was pretty easy to make a replacement. 
The pictures below are BS (before sanding) and the addition of the wales. It's looking pretty rough now but should clean up pretty good.
 

 

 
Unfortunately that will have to wait for a while. Heading to Florida for a couple of weeks R & R and then back to work in Daytona for January.  Time to get ready for the 24 Hour race.
It will be good to get out of Michigan.....   
Thanks for looking in and all the likes and comments.  It provides some good motivation.
You all have a Merry Christmas and Happy New Year.....

Just a quick update as to show where things are at the moment.  I got the faring of the frames done with no problems.
Then came the beginning of the planking. I managed to break 3 of the planks during the bending/twisting process to get the fits correct. Thanks to Rusty's thread it was pretty easy to make a replacement. 
The pictures below are BS (before sanding) and the addition of the wales. It's looking pretty rough now but should clean up pretty good.
 

 

 
Unfortunately that will have to wait for a while. Heading to Florida for a couple of weeks R & R and then back to work in Daytona for January.  Time to get ready for the 24 Hour race.
It will be good to get out of Michigan.....   
Thanks for looking in and all the likes and comments.  It provides some good motivation.
You all have a Merry Christmas and Happy New Year.....

I've now made, mounted and rigged the fore topgallant/royal mast. This included the topgallant shrouds, stay and backstay and the royal stay and backstay. Also added the main royal stay and backstay.This completes the standing rigging, with the exception of the ratlines, which will be done next (always save the best for last 😀).
 
Bob

Just a quick update as to show where things are at the moment.  I got the faring of the frames done with no problems.
Then came the beginning of the planking. I managed to break 3 of the planks during the bending/twisting process to get the fits correct. Thanks to Rusty's thread it was pretty easy to make a replacement. 
The pictures below are BS (before sanding) and the addition of the wales. It's looking pretty rough now but should clean up pretty good.
 

 

 
Unfortunately that will have to wait for a while. Heading to Florida for a couple of weeks R & R and then back to work in Daytona for January.  Time to get ready for the 24 Hour race.
It will be good to get out of Michigan.....   
Thanks for looking in and all the likes and comments.  It provides some good motivation.
You all have a Merry Christmas and Happy New Year.....

Le' boat continues, albeit slowly as I've been out of the country a bit, and very busy, and then sick.  Good times.
 
After finishing the keel, the next step is to attach the transom.  There is a lovely laser-cut guide making it very easy to get vertical, but of course it also needs to be at a 90 degree angle to the keel.  I think I got it pretty close.
 

 
After the transom the next step is the frames.  This boat has two types of frames (as everyone knows by this point, but typing up the log as if it's a stand alone thing) single piece and 3 piece.  We start with the single piece frames, which are the frames at the the ends, both the bow and the stern.  Chuck suggests reinforcing these pieces prior to working with them, by placing tape on both sides, and also gluing a small piece of wood in place at the tops, which will later be covered below the cap rail and between planking layers.  I did this, but took no photo's of that process, although it can be seen in the pictures if you squint just right.  The reinforcement is suggested, because these frames are only 1/32" thick, and will need to be faired later before planking.
 
After reinforcement the frames are removed from the parts sheet, and then test fit into the proper slots in the building board.  They are purposely cut just slightly oversized as they need to fit snugly.
 
The process here is simply sand slightly, test fit, sand slightly, test fit.. until they fit snugly, but not so tight that they can't be adjusted.
The same process is then used to make the frame pieces fit snugly into the proper slots in the keel.
 
Once all the pieces are test fit individually, they are then all put into the building board, and test fit together with the keel as a single unit.  Nothing is glued (including the build board which will remain in 2 parts for a while) in these photo's, this is a dry fit.
 

 
Next up I start assembling the 3-piece frames, which will then need to be fit into the building board and keel in the same way.

Here is a downloadable PDF full size of the rigging plan.  This is without sails for those who wish to rig it this way.  I have omitted the sizes of ropes and blocks as this will all be explained in the instructions.  Its a simple rig and this way those notations wont crowd the paths of the rigging on the plan sheet.
 
I am releasing as a download also because I know there may be folks who would prefer not to pay for a masting and rigging package especially after so few items are needed that you might already have.  I will do the same with the sail plan.  This will hopefully help those in other countries where the shipping would be ridiculous to send a plan sheet and mast material in a mailing tube.  But I will offer it of course for those who still want to buy all the parts in cedar and use my rigging blocks and rope which will be part of the rigging kit.  let me know if you have any questions about the rigging plan.  The mast blank is 20" long and will be expensive to ship internationally even though its very light.  
 
26ftlaunchsheetonehalfsheet3.pdf
 
 
 

And dont forget that in the topic with all the Medway downloads you will find a PD with all of the spiled plank templates.
 
Your model looks really great.  Awesome job on the planking.