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Everything posted by KenW
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Thanks Dave; thanks for the 'likes' as well.
- 122 replies
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- independence
- privateer
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I’ve resolved to add entries to this log more often. So, I made two changes to my Independence. I added the gunwale posts in the bow area and the anchor bumpers. (I don’t know if ‘anchor bumpers’ is the correct name, but it is descriptive.) This reminds me that I need to drill the holes for the anchor cables.
- 122 replies
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- independence
- privateer
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I’m surprised at how long it’s been since my last entry. A death in the family, another surgical procedure and a great family reunion have happened, but I have been working on my model during a along these two months. I have to make entries more often. Anyway, this is where I am at present. I made the binnacle. I based my design on some models being built in my club and a few photos I found on the web. As my friend at the club said, “All binnacles were the same. Two compasses with a lantern in the middle.” I made the cap rails from a1/32 inch sheet and some strips. I finished planking the side and completed the cap rail all the way to the stern. Also, I made the rudder and attached it to the hull. And I added stairs from the water line up the hull and a ladder from the main deck to the quarter deck So I have some more deck furniture to make, and the transom and stem carvings, as well as the quarter badges to create.
- 122 replies
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- independence
- privateer
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Thanks. Keep up the good workmanship. Cheers.
- 128 replies
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- mordaunt
- battle station
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I really like your workmanship. I have a question - When blackening the gun barrels, how long do you leave the barrels in the acetone and muriatic acid? Don't want to make any mistakes. Thanks.
- 128 replies
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- mordaunt
- battle station
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Really like the wreath. Great carving; it would look good even without the pencil. Cheers
- 128 replies
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- mordaunt
- battle station
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Outstanding workmanship! Really good looking model. Cheers.
- 128 replies
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- mordaunt
- battle station
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Thanks Bob; and thanks to the 'likes'. Cheers.
- 122 replies
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- independence
- privateer
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Congrats on a fine model. I was impressed with the variety of colors. Excellent work.
- 75 replies
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- constitution
- mamoli
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I haven’t made an entry in quite awhile due to a family issue. But I’m back in the shipyard and can report on some progress. First, I noticed that even though I used satin polyurethane, there is quite a shine on the lower planking. So I sanded it with 400 grade sandpaper and wiped it down with a tack cloth. I did not add another coat of urethane. It looks much better. Next I added vertical supports along the bulwarks which I assume were added during the conversion from a merchant/fishing boat to an armed privateer. I used wider supports where the gun ports are. I will probably replace the supports on the quarterdeck where those guns will be mounted. I stopped in the bow area so I can coordinate the supports with the location of the catheads and anchor hawse holes. I also made the windlass. I ‘bastardized’ the windlass from Syren’s Cheerful model kit. I had to make changes since this model is narrower that the Cheerful model. I reduced the section with three holes down to two and got Chuck to let me have another section so both sides of the windlass are the same. I think it came out rather well. Of course, I changed the ‘supports’ from boxwood to walnut. Note: It isn’t glued yet.
- 122 replies
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- independence
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Right Chuck! I forgot that the scale of this model is bigger. On my model, I was planning to use 1/16 for the cap rail and now I realize I need to use thinner wood. But your comments about being aware of scale and how that would translate to real life size is really valid and important. Cheers.
- 421 replies
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- medway longboat
- Syren Ship Model Company
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I concur with all the comments on your workmanship. Of course I’m used to that now. Chuck is a hard act to follow at our club’s show-and-tell. Am I right that your cap rail is made from a 1/16” thick sheet? That would be a 3” cap rail in real life. Or do you sand/file that down to about 1/32”? Why not start with a 1/32” sheet? Love your workmanship.
- 421 replies
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- medway longboat
- Syren Ship Model Company
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Thanks Russ. And thanks to all the 'likes'.
- 122 replies
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- independence
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Thanks for the comment Al. And thanks to the 'likes'. I didn't edge bend the boxwood between the wales. I was able to bend the 1/32 plank and it fit fine. The lower wale was thicker and I felt needed the edge bend. I should point out that most all of the planks at the bow were spilled. Good luck on your build. Cheers.
- 122 replies
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- independence
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The lower planking is complete. The port side looks pretty much like the starboard, which is good. I sanded both sides and applied clear stain to the walnut. Then a coat of polyurethane to give it a finished look. I’m pleased with the walnut’s color. I also added the stern post and finished the counter planking.
- 122 replies
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- independence
- privateer
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I got a fine sharpie pen; and my problem with it is that if I rube the line with my fat finger, it is wiped off. I now prefer the Sharpie ultra fine permanent marker. It doesn't rub off. The line is still thicker than the fine sharpie pen, however. Just a FYI. Cheers.
- 421 replies
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- medway longboat
- Syren Ship Model Company
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What kind of packing tape do you use. My tape won't take pencil marks. Very annoying. Your work always looks perfect. Cheers.
- 421 replies
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- medway longboat
- Syren Ship Model Company
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WOW! I'm very impressed. It seems when you can't be more impressive, then you submit another post. Excellent work. Excellent carving. Excellent everything. Keep it up!
- 961 replies
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The starboard side of the lower planking is complete. It still needs to be more sanding with finer grades and then the apply clear stain and polyurethane. When I started I used pencil to mimic the caulking, but I couldn’t see it once some initial sanding was done, so I just stopped using the pencil. The planking will just look the way it looks. Most of the planks at the bow area are spiled. Some of the rest are edge bent, some not. But I’m happy with the way it turned out. There are no dropped planks or stealers at the bow. On to the port side! In my spare time I began looking at the transom. The dye-cast metal transom provided by the kit is obviously too big for the reduced scale of my model, so I know I will have to create my own. But the kit’s transom is ‘longer’ than necessary. I hangs down over the counter like a ‘skirt’. Did boats of this era really have that? None of the models I’ve seen, including those in the Rodger’s collection at Annapolis have that. I’m thinking I’ll end the transom where the counter starts. Any thoughts?
- 122 replies
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- independence
- privateer
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You're a good wood carver! Very impressive. Good job.
- 961 replies
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Well, with only 3 strakes to go, the planking actually looks fine. I guess Dave and Mike were right. So thanks for the encouragement. The last strake may still be a little tricky, but I believe that is normal.
- 122 replies
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- independence
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