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KenW

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Everything posted by KenW

  1. KenW
    I don't really understand all of your explanations, but I do recognize outstanding workmanship. And that you certainly have! An amazing build - can't wait to see it. Happy New Year.
  2. KenW
    I like the little furniture you can see on the lower decks. Great work.\ Cheers.
  3. KenW
    Looking good Mike. I'm interested, maybe, in this kit as well. I'll enjoy watching this build progressing. Good luck.
  4. KenW
    Congratulations on completing an outstanding model. The workmanship is excellent and I will continue to use your blog while building my next model. Great job.
  5. KenW
    You sails look absolutely fantastic!! It also reminds me why I use furled sails. Great work with the sowing and all your other techniques. Cheers.
  6. KenW
    Thanks E.J. and Dave. I'm completely convinced that the Rattlesnake is built at a smaller scale(1:64) than the Fair American (1:48). And, thanks for the kind words Jim; as well as for the 'likes'. Cheers.
  7. KenW
    One last observation. At some time during the build, a question was raised as to the scale of the Rattlesnake vs the Fair American. While I agree that there are scale issues with the MSW Fair American, I don't think it's the same scale as the Rattlesnake. The photo shows the 2 masted, 14 gun Fair American next to the 3 masted, 20 gun Rattlesnake. And while the length of the two models from tip of the boom to the tip of the jib boom is the same, I think the Rattlesnake model is clearly done in a smaller scale. Thanks to all who followed this build and I hope to have another build log started soon.
  8. KenW
    Do you guys have a recommended brand and strength?
  9. KenW
    Thanks Jean, Steve, John and Martin. It was a fun journey. Good luck to you in your journeys as well. Cheers.
  10. KenW
    Thanks Ben, E.J., Ryland, Russ, Jon and Tom; as well as for all the 'likes'. Cheers to all.
  11. KenW
    The model is finished! I made an ensign which I’m flying from the gaff. I followed Chuck Passaro’s method from his log about his new kit of the Queen Anne Barge which can be found at ‘https://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/12476-syren-ship-model-company-news-and-forthcoming-new-projects-products/&page=9’. His method worked and I’m really pleased with the flag. A few words about American ensigns during the Revolutionary War: According to the US Navy ‘American Navel Flags of the Revolution’ web site, the Continental Congress in 1777 ”passed an act establishing a national flag for the United States of America. The law specified the flag have thirteen stripes and a blue ‘cannon’ of thirteen stars. No further details were specified.” This lead to several variants of navel ensigns, the most famous being John Paul Jones’ ensign with red, blue and white stripes and eight pointed stars. For my last model I decided to use the ensign flown by John Barry on the US Alliance which had 7 white stripes, 6 red stripes and eight pointed stars. For the Rattlesnake I’m using a “common variant” of 7 white stripes, 6 red stripes and five pointed stars arranged in a unique pattern. I guess I like being different. But I am the captain. (Notice that I neglected to trim some lose threads attaching the ensign block to the gaff.) More Photos:
  12. KenW
    Thanks Al, Bob, Zappto, Don, E.J., Dave and Jon for you comments. And Jon: I do intend to get a case before I allow my son to take it home. Cheers.
  13. KenW
    My next task is to make the anchors and mount them on the ship. The problem was that I couldn’t find the anchors that came with the kit. I’ve been following Chuck Passaro’s log for the kit he is building of the HMS Cheerful. As part of his design, he created a mini- kit for anchors made of boxwood. So I asked him if he could make a kit a little smaller to support a boat at 1:64 scale. He did and I followed his instructions to make anchors out of wood which so that they really look like they were metal. I’m pleased with the result and I mounted them based on a photo and text in John Harland’s book on page 269. I attach a copy of the photo and some photos of the current state of the boat. It is finished except I need to make an ensign.
  14. KenW
    Stay save over the next few days. Whatever it takes.
  15. KenW
    Thanks for all the comments; and the 'likes'. I will not be pointing out the repairs from now on, although I may tell my club guys. The end is near. Cheers.
  16. KenW
    I’ve corrected the location of the sheaves in the side of the hull which are used for the main lower sheets and braces. I think the repairs came out pretty well. You can see where the new walnut planks join the old, but the join is behind the mizzen shrouds and not very noticeable. As for the bulwarks, I mixed paint to match the faded color of the redheart planks and I’m satisfied with the results. I just hope that the unpainted planks don’t fade too much further. The rigging is complete. So all that is left to do is make and mount the anchors and the ensign. So, the completion date is not far off.
  17. KenW
    Your workmanship is unbelievable. Excellent!
  18. KenW
    Steve: I just read through your build log and I think it is a great description of your work as well as a informative tutorial to supplement Chuck's manual. Just one question - what is that unusual clamp in the last photo? I saw it in an earlier post and there it is again. Thanks.
  19. KenW
    I have good news and bad news. I’ve finally done enough rigging so I’m ready to lash the spare mast and yard to the gallows and tie down the ship’s boat to the spares. My wife says it looks like the boat has had a baby. I also added extended fixed gangways. I made brackets to support the end of each gangway out of wood which can’t be seen. I also added ladders up to each gangway. I based my design on a drawing in a book by Howard Chapelle entitled, “The History of American Sailing Ships", published in 1935. The drawing is on page 136. I’m pleased the way it turned out. The Chapelle drawing: And now for the bad news. Way back last year, while planking the aft bulwarks, I added sheaves for the main sheets and braces. However, I placed them wrong. As can be seen in the photo, the sheet will foul the mizzen back stays and shrouds. The only way I can think of fixing the problem is to remove three planks from each side of the hull and replace them with the sheaves in their proper place. Fortunately, I still have walnut planks he same width and thickness. But it will take some very careful work.
  20. KenW
    Thanks Al and Duncbe. I do recommend Syren's blocks and line. Clearly superior to any that I've seen supplied by a kit. I also use his gun barrels and carriages. Cheers.
  21. KenW
    Looks like you are off to an excellent start. This looks like a great kit. And you're right, fairing is an extremely important element of a model. I'll be following along. Cheers.
  22. KenW
    Thanks Russ, Bob and Bob, E.J. and Jon. And thanks to the 'likes'.
  23. KenW
    All lines on the forecastle are in place, tied off and coils are added. Attached is a better photo taken from the same angle as the shot with all the spaghetti. The photo was taken at sundown. The lines on the quarter deck are also tied off and coiled. I like to think that I’m a ‘good’ captain considerate of his crew. So I added various railings to protect the sailors from unnecessary injuries. For example, I added a rope railing to prevent officers on the quarter deck from falling down the stairs going below. I also added railings to the aft of the tops. And, finally, a railing so a crew member has something to hold onto while using the head. (That one is kind of hard to see.)
  24. KenW
    Thanks Dave, JPAM and Steve; and for the 'likes'. And Jim, I'm flabbergasted. Thanks for the kind words. Keep in mind that the Redheart gets more 'orange' or rust color as it ages.
  25. KenW
    The spaghetti is gone from the forecastle. All the lines have been tied up, glued and coils were added. I still have to finalize the jib and staysail sheets. But I’m ready to move on to the shrouds, starting with the fore mast and moving aft. The tip of the jibboom doesn’t look to bad. I was finally able to make some decent thimbles from 1 mm thin brass tubing. I see in the photo that I left a loose thread from the topsail spritsail lashing. That was soon taken care of.

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