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KenW

NRG Member
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Everything posted by KenW

  1. Congratulations! Another skillfully constructed model. I've enjoyed your logs for a few years now, so I look forward to the next one. Cheers.
  2. Thanks Jon. I should look into the press stand. Did the X-Y table come with the drill press stand? Cheers.
  3. Thanks Russ and E.J. I was leery of the fly fishing line myself, but am pleased with the way it turned out. The line isn't that easy to work with, however - very thin.
  4. The crowsfeet weren’t as hard as I thought. The hardest part was making the euphroes. I don’t have a power drill, other than my Dremel. I made the euphroes with my hand held drill. I used a 1/8 x 1/16 strip and used my xacto to make a score down the middle of the 1/8 side. The score helped keep the holes lined up, and just used my awl to mark where the holes should be. After the holes were drilled, I used a sanding stick to get the width and thickness down to where it should be. The crowsfeet line I used was that recommended by Antscherl. The line was fly fishing line with a weight of 6/0, and it’s very thin. It was hard to capture on camera.
  5. What kind of lathe are you using? It looks like it is more than just your dremmel, yet it can deal with small pieces of wood. Excellent work on the model.
  6. I'll follow your build, but I don't think I do anything special. I just plod along like everyone else. I really like going to meetings of my local club. Hopefully you have one near by. Cheers.
  7. Thanks Russ, E.J., Dave and Jon; and the 'likes'. I'm including crowsfeet because they are on Harold Hahn's plans. As usual, I'm following Antscherl's method as described in his, "The Fully Framed Model", volume 4.
  8. The mizzen ‘spanker’ has been bent and the gaff crossed after many mistakes. But with some perseverance the task was completed. The ‘spanker’ was brailed which required a total of six lines that needed to be tied off. I previously added a small pin rack holding 4 belaying pins on each side and used three per side for the brails. The remaining one will be used later. I actually have a rigging plan that will use the MSW kit’s plans, with expansions to account for the ‘extra’ lines I need to show the furled sails. Anyway, it’s on to the dreaded crowsfeet.
  9. Outstanding. And you're right - nothing like a well designed plan. Congrats on that as well. Cheers
  10. Jon Congrats again. I like the plate as well. Let us know what your next build will be. Cheers.
  11. Congratulations!! Your model looks great. Don't worry about how long it takes - this is a hobby right. As 'russ' states, "Tain't a hobby of you hurry". Where did you get the case? In particular the plexiglass plates. I can't get 1/8th inch thick; they tell me that it is too thin. Anyway, great job and enjoy your effort. Cheers.
  12. Just a quick update since my next task will certainly take a while. I made and mounted the jib boom along with its traveler ring setup. I took the design from Bob ‘rafine’. I liked the way his looked, so I did the best I could. That's a hook for the jib that is hanging under the boom. (It's also too big). Next I raised the cross jack yard. All my reading insists that there are no jeers holding the cross jack. After 1773 a sling with two thimbles was used, according to Antscherl. I used the truss that he and Lees describe in their books. Raising the cross jack: The cross jack is secured and trussed: Detail of the sling:
  13. Your model is coming great. Great planning and execution. And I always like to learn new little tricks. Cheers.
  14. Great work. Thanks for sharing your method for making parrels. I have some ribs and wooden beads that I got from Italy, but they look too big for 1:64 scale. I will try your method. I did acquire some smaller beads (plastic) recently. I assume you used white glue to make the rib stack. If not, what type of glue was it? Cheers.
  15. Thanks Russ and E.J. Some tapes will pull the lines apart, but I find that the blue painters tape does not and is ideal. Cheers.
  16. Continuing my work on the lower yards, I finished making the fore lower yard and crossed it to the fore mast. Everything was the same as the main lower yard. I made more belaying pins and put them into the fore breast rail. All the lines were belayed to the rail. I do realize that once I’m ready to tie them down permanently, I’ll have to tie them from the fore side of the rail. Next, I’m going to do the cross jack and the gaff/boom setup. And some photos of the details: The ‘M’ as described by Antschrel. The spritsail and sprit topsail brace lines are rapped in the blue painter’s tape. And here is the breast rail. The lines and pins aren’t glued yet.
  17. I like your style of creating a model. It's like you create a 'kit', and then build it. Ever think of making your plans available to the MSW public? Very impressive.
  18. Hey Russ. Looks like it will be a great model! I like the way your models are of boats with local history. The plans you're using - are they of your design? A very impressive start and looking forward to following along. Cheers.
  19. I agree with Mr. Seiler. I can't imagine doing a scratch build without power tools. Cheers.
  20. I've never built a model from scratch, but there are a couple of sites that can supply you with different kinds of wood. One is Crown Timberyard, and also I've heard good things about "Wood Project Source". Both have links on the MSW home page. You can always send an email message to Chuck Passaro, he's really great with offering help. His handle is "Chuck". Have fun.
  21. Well, my spritsail is bent to the yard and the spritsail yard crossed to the bow sprint. (I hope I have all the terminology correct). Again, none of the lines are glued into place; and the belaying pins are not glued to the rail either. Also, the spritsail yard is not pined. So it will be positioned later as there will be a lot more lines to keep an eye on.
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