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KenW

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Everything posted by KenW

  1. KenW
    Really nice job. Working with medal is another skill completely. Congrats.
  2. KenW
    You're doing a great job. I'd advise that you not tie off lines permantly until all lines in a certain area are installed. You don't want lines to touch each other, or rub together. Even if it means, for example, switching lines amoung shroud cleats, etc. Keep up the good work.
  3. KenW
    Thanks Russ. I think I'll make up one of those jigs. Thanks for the 'likes' as well. Cheers.
  4. KenW
    I’ve finaly reached another milestone: The lower masts have been constructed and glued into place. There are a few things that should be pointed out. Lees states that wooldings were made of line before 1805; so even though the Hahn plans seem to show metal wooldings, I chose to go with line. I also added a belaying pin rack that will hold 4 pins for Mizzen lines that will need tying off. My belying pins obviously need to be a bit smaller. My next milestone will be to add the shrouds and stays. And, Lees also states that the sheer pole was not used until around 1800. I like using the sheer pole to help align the dead eyes, but I guess I will have to try to get them all lined up without it. If that is too much of a problem, then I’ll add the sheer poles anyway.
  5. KenW
    On the plan you posted: Is it possible that the bottom on the plan is the correct horizontal; which means that it can be used to draw the water line? But Brian is right; there should be at least a mark on the stem and stern to use a reference points. And I also agree that it's not easy to make a water line from two different types of wood. Keep us posted.
  6. KenW
    I agree that that metal transom belongs in the garbage. I can't wait to see what you use as its replacement. Are you going to carve a new transom? Hope you include a lot of photos of your process. Cheers.
  7. KenW
    Your model is looking really good! Excellent work; and of course fortitude. A quick practical question - Would you recommend holding off on the crows feet until after the lower yards are attached? I was wondering if that would make the rigging of all those blocks under the tops easier. Thanks.
  8. KenW
    Right Jon. I cut the diagonal just beyond the serving. My biggest problem now is getting the exact length of the line or strop. I'm always a little too long or too short.
  9. KenW
    Thanks Jon and Martin. To make the splice, I used the method described by D. Antscherl on page 42 of his FFM, volume 4. It took a few tries to get a good one, but it came out alright. For eye splicing, I use his method which is also described in his book. I will check out Blue Ensign's log to see his technique. Cheers.
  10. KenW
    I started rigging with the bobstay. According to Antscherl’s Fully Framed Model, the bobstay is both served and doubled. I’ve never done either before. I purchased the Serve-o-Matic from Syren and while I made some errors putting it together, it works fine. In order to double the stay, I had to figure out how to splice the two ends of the served line in order to make a loop. After several tries I got something I can live with. Part of the challenge is that the splice has to be made while the served line is fed through the hole in the stem. Since I felt that the splice was still noticeably thicker than the rest of the line, I placed the splice inside the hole in the stem. After some shaping, I seized the thimble in the opposite end and then lashed it to the bobstay collar. So now it’s on to the bob sprint shrouds which are served but not doubled.
  11. KenW
    Thanks for the comments B.E., Nils, EJ, Bob and Don. And the 'likes' as well. I'm looking forward to the rigging as well. Cheers.
  12. KenW
    Thanks Tom, Martin and Jon and the 'likes'. Good reminder Jon, I always put all my bottles in re-cycling. Did they smash bottles at launches back in those days? It's not like the boat will sail off any time soon. Cheers.
  13. KenW
    Launch Date I believe I’ve completed the hull. All the gun port lids, channels and deadeye & chains are installed. I’m not actually sure what is required for launching a boat, but I think I’m there. I know I have to make my belaying pins smaller, but aside from that I’m ready to start on the rigging. My first step is to try out my new serving machine (from Syren). And, of course, I need to start making masts. But now I’m happy that the hull meets my requirements for a Launch Date. I will have a party this weekend. I also should clean up that cradle I made. It doesn’t look so good.
  14. KenW
    Great job! I remember those issues from my last model. Persistence always pays off. Cheers.
  15. KenW
    I don't believe you put a painting in the cabin! Great work, by the way. Congrats.
  16. KenW
    Thanks Jon. I already knocked off the aft ones, but thought it was save to reinstall them as part of the hull completion. I didn't think they would be in danger during rigging. I'll have to be careful. (Or, reinstall them later. Maybe I'll wait on those 6 aft ones.) Cheers.
  17. KenW
    The next step is to install the gun port lids and the channels and chains. I just completed the lids for the two foremost guns and the first channel and chain. Now that I have a process for each, the rest should go a little quicker.
  18. KenW
    Thanks and I'm glad I could be of help. I'll check out your build log. Cheers.
  19. KenW
    Thanks for the comments and the 'likes'.. Mike: The wood hardener is by Min-Wax. I got it at the local hardware store.
  20. KenW
    Great work and good luck on your move.
  21. KenW
    The forecastle furniture is complete. The breast rail is not glued yet because I’m worried about having enough room to tie the rigging. A lot of people on this site have mentioned that, so I’m holding back on a lot of stuff. Maybe I’m over-reacting. Next I realized that I forgot to install the anchor cable before I planked the forecastle. So I used a piece of wire and snaked the cable through the hawse hole. Now the cable is secured and the other end is just hanging there waiting for the anchor. I also finally glued the figurehead onto the stem. I think I’ll bring the model to my club meeting next week.
  22. KenW
    Thanks to Russ, EJ and Dave, as well as the 'likes'. I'm optimistic about the tooth picks - I do know they are not bamboo. Cheers.
  23. KenW
    Quick status: I made 25 belaying pins from tooth picks. They are 5/16” long and, needless to say, there are many rejects in the waste basket. I’m going to paint them with the wood hardener and hope that whatever wood the tooth picks are made of will hold up to the rigging. The model is progressing slowly, but steady.
  24. KenW
    Hey Brian: Great job; your build looks fantastic. Where did you get those little clamps? Cheers.
  25. KenW
    WOW. That's small. So at 3/16" scale they should be about 5/16.

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