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KenW

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Everything posted by KenW

  1. KenW
    Is there a trick or jig that I can use to get the exact center of a dowel? Should be able to work with various sizes of dowels. Thanks.
  2. KenW
    This may be a stupid question but ... Back in Sept. (entry #225), you were making your lower mast. You wanted to "delineate and complete the square section" before you rounded of the rest of the mast. You made saw cuts - and you "used an off cut to establish the proper depth". What is an "off cut"? Thanks.
  3. KenW
    Great work! Glad to see you don't 'forget' the Independence.
  4. KenW
    Yeah Jon, that sounds like a good idea. I may try that out on the fore mast. Thanks.
  5. KenW
    Thanks. Jon: First I measured the distance between the two foremost shrouds. Then, I cut pieces of line, all the same length, allowing for the splices. I splice loops in each end of the lines, measuring as I go to try to get four the same length as the distance between the foremost shrouds. After about 10 tries, I got the four I needed. The hard part is getting four the exact right length.
  6. KenW
    Thanks Russ, E.J., Bob and Don; as well as all the 'likes'. I'm still trying to decide if it's worth it to snake the two main stays. Cheers
  7. KenW
    Another long period with no updates to the log. I’d work a lot faster if I didn’t make so many mistakes. And I promised myself that if it’s not right, I would tear it out and do it again. So the main shrouds are installed, and ratted. (I ratted the mizzen shrouds, as well.) The mizzen and main stays were also added. All the blocks, etc., that attach to the stays were put in place before the stay was permanently installed. Included is the main stay tackles used to launch the ship’s boat. For the photos, I temporarily added the gallows along with a couple of spare dowels so I could see what the boat looks like. So far, so good. And I want to point out that I added catharpins to the main shrouds.
  8. KenW
    Great work as usual. It looks like each bowsprit guy is hooked to an eyebolt that already has a block seized to it. Is that true? Cheers
  9. KenW
    Good lesson for all of us. Thanks.
  10. KenW
    Excellent work. And the photos don't show how outstanding your workmanship really is.
  11. KenW
    Thanks. I'm planning to build this ship in the future. So I'll have to re-read you earlier posts at some point. Can't wait to see your finished product. Your skills are outstanding. Cheers.
  12. KenW
    Glad to see you back at the Independence. How did you determine the size of the gun ports? (Maybe I should re-read your previous postings.) Thanks.
  13. KenW
    Congrats. and thanks for the information. Your build is excellent. No rest for the weary, however. Waiting to follow the Independence again. Great job.
  14. KenW
    Thanks Dave. My red heart has also faded. So I'm looking for another type of wood. I may have to use paint on my next time. What is your source for blood wood, purpleheart and rosewood? I do like the look of your hull. Thanks.
  15. KenW
    I really like that you didn't use paint, but use different woods to achieve that 'authentic' look. What wood is the dark brown wood on the hull? And is that redheart on the inner bulwarks? Thanks.
  16. KenW
    I really like that display stand. You should market it.
  17. KenW
    Check out the Cheerful from Syren. Chuck Passaro offers the plans and a keel and bulkheads package cut by his laser printer; and he has worked with Crown Timber who offer a wood package. Not sure of the cost. But I hope that this style of 'kit' catches on. I'm too old to buy and learn how to use all the power tools needed to do a real scratch build. Chuck offers some solutions and I hope others follow suit. Cheers.
  18. KenW
    This is my third model. My previous two were MS kits. At the time, there was a problem getting the Mamoli kit (a fire or something). However, I should point out that I get all my blocks and line from Syren and used boxwood, holly, walnut and redheart from Crown Timber. And I don't use the dye cast metal deck furniture. So, the only parts of the kit I used were the frame (keel, former and stern and stem posts) and a couple of stern window frames. So I guess, from my point of view, you could use either one. Check out 'jsgerson's build log on this site. He's using the Mamoli kit with the help of Bob Hunt's practicum. His build looks great, and he may have some advice as well. Cheers.
  19. KenW
    Great build; great workmanship. Cheers.
  20. KenW
    Thanks Dave. Thanks to all the 'likes' as well. Cheers.
  21. KenW
    Thanks E.J., Sam and Jon. I don't think I'm going to take those shrouds off and redo them at this point. May change my mind. Jon - One of the reasons I follow your build and others here on this site is because I find the kit plans to be very sparse when it comes to details. You can't rely on them. So, even when I'm on vacation, I'm always thinking about possible problems that lie ahead. Modeling can be a full time experience. Cheers.
  22. KenW
    WOW; I just realized how long it has been since my last post. So, this is an update. The bow sprint shrouds and the boomkin shrouds were done a while ago. I added the fore and main stay collars. They are supposed to be doubled, according to Artscherl, but when I do them, the two served lines don’t ‘stand’ together the way they do in his book. So I wrapped a thin line around to two served lines as a kind of worming or snaking to hold them together. Hopefully, no one will notice. The mizzen shrouds were added to the model. I also attached the shroud cleats since I always try to do whatever I can off the model. I’m not planning to use sheer poles since Antscherl (and Lees) state that they weren’t used until the 19th century. And, now that I look at the photo, I’m not happy with that middle shroud (its deadeye is too high).
  23. KenW
    Fantastic work! Really excellent.
  24. KenW
    All that is truly out of my league. I'll have to think of something else.
  25. KenW
    A Bernzomatic hand torch ... a propane tank, with a regulator ... ???

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