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Everything posted by KenW
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Thanks Gary, Bob and the 'likes'. Now on to the head rails and the 'seats of ease'. Cheers.
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I finally completed the cheeks and mounted them on the stem, along with the wolf-hounds. ‘Martin W’ was right – the wolf hounds were a bit too large. In fact, even though the carved wolfs were the exact size as those on the MS plans, the stem wasn’t the same size as the plans. So I had to make the cheeks narrower and modify the carvings in order to manage to fit them on the model. They don’t look as I imaged them, but I think they’re OK. The cheeks were laminated to get the look I wanted. I also created small laminated pieces to enable the covering boards to look like they curved around at 180 degrees. I think the result looks pretty good. Now I'll continue working on the head.
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Really good work, Jon. I long ago decided to use Hahn as my go-to source. I think you made the right decision. So far, so good (actually, so far, excellent). Cheers.
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Thanks Jonathan. I totally agree. The fear factor will prevent me doing too much. Happy New Year.
- 481 replies
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Hey Mike. I like your method on the out haul block. It seems it could be useful in a lot of situations. Cheers and Happy New Year.
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Thanks Dan, Gary and Martin and the 'likes'. Dan: I will try the wood hardener - testing first. The issue with doing too much detailed work is that no one will really see it (or notice it). Martin: I'm working on the cheeks now and will make sure everything fits before the final gluing. I can't wait to see more as well. Cheers and Happy New Year.
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I was able to sneak a little work during the period between Christmas and New Year’s. I made some of the rigging collars needed on the bow sprint. The MS plans definitely show two thimbles for the shrouds and a deadeye for the bobstay. On my previous models, these collars were all the same and the Hahn plans don’t show any details, so I’m going with the MS plans (for now). The Hahn plans do show a fore stay AND a fore preventer stay. So I’m going to follow the Hahn plans on that. There are two beckets in lieu of thimbles on the preventer stay collar for the spritsail bunt lines. My smallest thimble looked way too big. I also tried my hand at carving. I used an x-acto knife and a needle file and after a few tries, I think I’ve produced two adequate hounds to be placed in between the cheeks. I may try to add more detail, but I’m afraid of breaking a leg or tail.
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Cutter Cheerful 1806 by rafine - FINISHED
KenW replied to rafine's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1801 - 1850
Happy New Year! I like your method for making your rudder and tiller. I think I will emulate it on my model Great job (as usual). Cheers.- 525 replies
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Cutter Cheerful 1806 by rafine - FINISHED
KenW replied to rafine's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1801 - 1850
Great job as always. I have to ask - Are those "seats of ease"? Cheers and Happy Holidays.- 525 replies
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Thanks Mike. I plan on bringing it to the January meeting. Cheers. Happy Holidays to all!!
- 481 replies
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Thanks for the help on the rigging problem. Fortunately, I have plenty of time before I have to make a final decision. Meanwhile I’m continuing with additions to the hull. So far I’ve added four more guns (only 4 more to go). I also made all the furniture for the gun deck. I re-did the pumps; the old ones were too big and I changed the position of the handles so those doors will open. I didn’t have all the correct widths of red heart, so I did some laminating to create 5/32 square strips for the riding bits and 1/8 x 5/32 strips for the cross pieces of the gallows bits (the curvy pieces). Please note that neither the furniture nor the lower masts are glued in place so the placement angles are off. I made the lower masts so I could have them in place (unglued) when I plank the forecastle and quarter decks. I actually think the model is starting to look like a real boat.
- 481 replies
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Thanks Martin. I had already come to that conclusion. I still don't feel right adding a fifth kevel, however. I may have to double up on a couple of mizzen shroud cleats. Cheers.
- 481 replies
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Add my congrats. and I'm happy to see that he appreciates your work. Cheers.
- 209 replies
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I agree with all the above posts: That little decoy is a really nice boat! Excellent work. (Does he get to keep both?) Cheers.
- 209 replies
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Thanks for your help Dan and JS. JS: That fourth kevel is a definite solution to part of the problem. Don - It's interesting that you mention that the crossjack yard may not have lifts at all. In any case, I will keep a lookout for any cleat, etc., that are unused. I did a quick look at the MS rigging plan and I can't find anything being delayed to the foremost lower mizzen shroud cleat. So that may be a possibility. Thanks again to both of you for your help.
- 481 replies
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I’m in the process of installing the remaining guns on the main deck and anything needed for the rigging (eyebolts, etc.). While going over the plans, I have a question. The rigging plan for the MS kit has a diagram of the Fore Lower Yard & Attachments. It states that the yard’s lift “leads thro sheave in the kevel abreast mast and belays on its cleat”. It also states that the “Main & Crossjack Yards Similar”. The problem is that there are no kevels on the plans abreast the main or crossjack masts. In fact, immediately abreast of the main mast there is a gun and the fixed gangway. There are three kevels on the inner bulwarks along the quarter deck, but each one already has a line belayed to it. My solution would be to add two more kevels, as close to being abreast of the masts as possible on the inner bulwarks of the quarter deck. Does that seem right? I’d appreciate some input. Thanks.
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I’ve been working on the stern. I didn’t like the look of the swiss pear. I wanted more of a contrast with the boxwood. So I removed the pear planks and replaced them with walnut. The walnut is much darker and I like the color. In the process, I re-did the ‘openings’ for the stern windows, I re-painted the windows, AND I re-printed the name on the stern. All in all, I’m pleased with the all of the results. I added the beams for the quarter deck as well as spare wood to support the opening for the stairs for the officers. The stairs were built and added. After a few tries, I think the stairs came out O.K. (even though I had to use swiss pear to get the size of the sides and steps right). The color is not so important here.
- 481 replies
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Excellent job. Congrats on a great build. I'm sure your doctor will be awed.
- 209 replies
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Great work. Do you get these K&S strips on-line? And are these the same brass strips you use for the 'scraping' tools? Thanks.
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Thanks JS and Augie. I do get kind of crazy sometimes. Cheers.
- 481 replies
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I modified the canon rigging to more closely match the rigging on the USS Constitution. I attach a photo of one of her cannonades for a reference. It’s hard to see, but I carved a quoin handle, as well. I also filled that nick on the bulkhead partition with Elmer’s Wood Filler. I don’t have a photo of that, but it looks a lot better (even if no one will be able to actually see it).
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On my Fair American, I seized the blocks to the stays. So I didn't use a loop such as used when there is a mouse. Hope this helps.
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Hey JS. Yeah, you are probably right. Looking at your model, and others, it does look crowded by the main mast. It was fun anyway. Cheers.
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Hey Augie. Thanks. My son actually likes the nick. He thinks it makes the door look like a 'real door'. Anyway, I really hope you're feeling well and had a Happy Birthday. Cheers.
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