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Everything posted by KenW
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Hey Gary - Good luck on your new build. Cheers.
- 50 replies
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- benjamin w latham
- model shipways
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I thought I had finished fairing the hull. I began framing the gun ports; but looking at them, I thought they didn’t look right. After some questions to Chuck Passaro on his Cheerful log, I learn that the shape of the gun ports is critical. The sides must be parallel to the bulkheads, while the top and bottom must be parallel to the deck. Thus, they are not a perfect square. So I measured the distance from the deck at each bulkhead ad added a batten running the entire length of the hull. I was surprised at the result. Not only did the ‘run’ of the battens look ‘off’, but I saw peaks and valleys in my fairing. So I ripped out the gun port frames I had already completed and started the fairing process again. I now think that I have the hull faired properly and when I re-attached the battens, the run of the gun port sills looks good. I’m a bit nervous since how the ‘run of the gun ports‘ look is subjective. I can only hope my ‘eye’ is up to snuff. But it looks right to me and I will have to go with that. It seems that it is more important to look right than to measure right. Also, this model is intended for my youngest son. He doesn’t want anything painted. I told him that at least the wales would be painted black, but I would see what I could do about the rest. I obtained some redheart wood from Jason at Crowntimber, a new company trying to pick up the slack from HobbyMill’s going out of business. The wood strips are excellent and I recommend his wood. I also received boxwood, swiss pear and holly. I believe it is the same high quality as HobbyMill used to be. I don’t know that the photos show the difference in the fairing, but I hope that the ‘run of the port sills’ can be seen.
- 481 replies
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- rattlesnake
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Great work as usual. Whenever I attempt to cut and file the square section, I can never get a proper square. The angles are always off. Do you have any shortcuts/advise? Thanks.
- 1,477 replies
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- essex
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Thanks.. And also the run of the planks is not the same as the run of the port sills. And the final 'decision' is based on wheather or not it looks right. Not very objective. Yes? You have to have a lot of patience.
- 1,048 replies
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- cheerful
- Syren Ship Model Company
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I've started framing the gun ports on my model and have a question. It seems that your top and bottom of the ports run parallel to the deck and the sides are parallel to the bulkheads. That would mean, on my Rattlesnake, that some of the gun ports are NOT a perfectly square. The angles aren't all 90 degrees. Is that correct? My deck rises at the bow at a steeper angle than your Cheerful. How will that affect the gun port lids? Or am I doing it all wrong? Thanks.
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- cheerful
- Syren Ship Model Company
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Thanks. We are going to make you a model kit company yet! I will be in touch.
- 1,048 replies
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- cheerful
- Syren Ship Model Company
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So - my current build has 10 gun ports with lids. Will you make a small 'kit' available of the hinge setups? I know that I would be interested. Cheers.
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- cheerful
- Syren Ship Model Company
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Where does one get a tube so small (.7 mm O.D. and .5 mm I.D.)? Thanks.
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- cheerful
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I just wondered after seeing your latest - How will you be creating the hole for the rudder? I realize you will need a hole, but what is your technique? Thanks.
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- cheerful
- Syren Ship Model Company
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Great work as usual. I guess the rails are supposed to be black. I like the look of black rails with the edge (where us used 1/16 x 1/16 scraped boxwood) either painted yellow. Or using boxwood or holly. Anyway, your wood working skills are second to none. Cheers.
- 2,191 replies
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- confederacy
- Model Shipways
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Great work on the main stay. I always use the cone method, but I like the way the seizing looks. Good idea. Making your own hearts looks to be a good idea as well. Cheers.
- 974 replies
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- rattlesnake
- mamoli
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As I've said before, your model is looking good. I think you've just got some coils to go. Cheers.
- 206 replies
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- fair american
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Hey Scott. Just checked out your log and your model looks great. I hope I can to as well. Cheers.
- 264 replies
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- rattlesnake
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Thanks Scott. I've been following jsgerson's log and have pretty much decided to go with the Hahn plans. Hahn seems to be the 'go to' source. Thanks again. Cheers.
- 481 replies
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- rattlesnake
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The bulkheads have been glued and I’m in the process of fairing the hull. I’m taking extra time with the fairing since it creates the foundation of the entire build. I added braces between each bulkhead for added strength. However, even with the braces, I’m having problems with breakages in the stern and bow area. Also, I have to decide how I want the stern transom to be built. The kit supplied one, with the windows pre-cut, is not the same shape as on the Hahn plans. Decisions, decisions, decisions.
- 481 replies
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- rattlesnake
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Gary: Your model looks really good! I like the photos on that blue surface. Looks like its out on the water. A very excellent job.
- 206 replies
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- fair american
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WOW! Thanks. I was wondering about using the "water line" from the plans. This is a much better idea. Cheers.
- 481 replies
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- rattlesnake
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Thanks Jonathan. While I probably won't leave comments, I will definitely ask questions. Right now I'm gluing the bulkheads and getting ready for fairing. How did you determine the location of the port sills? Cheers.
- 481 replies
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- rattlesnake
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Thanks Jonathan and Gerty. Jonathan: I have been following your Rattlesnake build with interest. You are way ahead of me so when I read your early postings I don't leave comments since I realize you are way past where I am. But keep up the good work. Cheers.
- 481 replies
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- rattlesnake
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Well, I have to add to all the comments about your superb workmanship. This is one of those times when 'likes' are not enough. Well done, a standard for the rest of us to strive for. Cheers.
- 2,191 replies
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- confederacy
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I’ve finished the rabbet on the keel former. Initially I added a 1/16 x 3/32 plank to the keel former as I’ve seen done in Chuck Passaro’s builds. This left room for a 1/32 rabbet on each side. I felt that was all I could afford since the former was so thin. But I found that the piece, while helping me sand and file the rabbet, had altered the shape of the keel former enough so it would have taken a lot of filing/sanding to get the stem, keel and stern post to fit. So, I removed the plank. Once I attached the stem and keel pieces, using two dowels for each piece, I think the rabbet will be fine. I will just have to insure that the hull planks, especially the Garboard plank, are sufficiently beveled. The Rattlesnake bulkheads (unglued) taken next to the Fair American.
- 481 replies
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- rattlesnake
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I began my build of the Rattlesnake with the center keel and bulkheads and discovered my first minor problems. The bulkheads, center keel former, keel, etc. were cut from 5/32 basswood boards, rather than the 3/16 inch board I expected. Also, the laser burn didn’t go through the entire board on three bulkheads. That meant that I had to get out my scroll saw (manual) and start making saw dust. I have to decide if I want to leave the beams for the forecastle and poop decks, or remove them and cut my own beams once the planking and deck furniture are done. I will have to decide before I glue the bulkheads to the keel former since I will need to first manually cut out the space on those three bulkheads. Testing the bulkheads on the fore half of the keel former:
- 481 replies
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- rattlesnake
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