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KenW

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Everything posted by KenW

  1. KenW
    Great work, as usual. In the last photo, has the coaming for the smaller grate been added?
  2. KenW
    Thanks Augie and Mark. I have replaced the port side forward garboard plank and the length also changed slightly. The new plan still calls for 10 strakes to be added to both sides. Thanks for the 'likes' as well. Cheers.
  3. KenW
    Another Update: I have completed half (10) of the planned strakes working down from the wales. After sanding with 80 and 150 grit, I feel that while the workmanship isn’t perfect, it’s better that my last model. There will be more sanding with finer grit once the outer hull is done. I added the garboard strake using a 3/16 inch strip and then made new paper strips for the lower half of the planking. The plan is still for 10 strakes on the lower portion. If there is too much space for the last planks, I will reduce a larger width strip and hope that the needed width is so small that it will not be noticed. I still haven’t soaked a single plank in water. I’m replacing the forward garboard plank because I don’t like its positioning and the way the two sides don’t line up. So, while there are a lot of ‘summer-time fun’ interruptions, modeling does continue.
  4. KenW
    Excellent model! Your workmanship looks impressive and the hull lines are nice and clean. Your result will be a beautiful. Cheers.
  5. KenW
    Thanks augie, as well as Dave and Brian. I'm using holly on the lower hull; that way I don't have to paint it white (all my mistakes will show). Cheers.
  6. KenW
    Just a quick status. I have completed the first belt of 5 strakes. My planking plan is being followed with only a couple of slight corrections needed. I’m not having any problems with the planks at the bow. I’m following Chuck Passaro’s method which can be seen in the video on his Cheerful build log (page 16, entry #316). The problem I’m having is at the stern. I can’t seem to get a proper bend to get the planks up to the fashion piece. I think an edge bend plus a very tight ‘regular’ bend is needed and I’m getting small spaces between planks. Also, the ends aren’t really lining up well, although I figure I can cover that with a piece of molding.
  7. KenW
    The last effort looks pretty good in the photos. But if you aren't happy with it, you will forever wish you tried again. Best of luck.
  8. KenW
    I will give it a try, but I won't expect too much.
  9. KenW
    Thanks Jon. I've been looking at your carvings - and I don't see how I'm going to be able to do that. But, for now, the lower hull is calling. Cheers.
  10. KenW
    Next up is mapping out and planking the lower hull. I cut a paper strip for each bulkhead and was pleasantly surprised that the strips for the starboard side also fit the port side. What I didn’t like was the way the width of the planks dipped slightly between bulkheads ‘H’ and ‘M’. I looked at the hull and did some more sanding thinking that perhaps the fairing was off. But that yielded no change. Likewise, there was no change after I redid the hull stern where it met the counter. My only conclusion is that I probably was off when I located the wales. I don’t see how I can redo that at this time, so I will plod ahead and hope for the best. The photos show each bulkhead marked with the width of the 21 eighth inch strakes and the belts I marked with artists tape. The bottom of the tape is the top if each belt.
  11. KenW
    I agree totally. And remember, when planing a visit to NJ, the club meets on the fourth Tuesday of each month. (Except for Dec., when we meet on the third Tuesdy.) Cheers
  12. KenW
    Thanks Bob and Jon and the 'likes'. Jon - The problem with the stern is that the first two hull planks don't go all the way back to the counter. Again, I hope that the fashion piece will cover that up once it is installed. Otherwise I will have to remove those planks and redo them. Cheers.
  13. KenW
    I finished the planking above the wales on both sides up to the top if the gun ports. I have yet to add the moulding since I have yet to cut a razor blade that scraped a suitable moulding shape. I’m still working on that. Also, I realized after re-reading Jon’s (JSGERSON) build log that I forgot to add the sheaves on the sides. So I ending up removing planks, created the sheaves and carved out a place for them on new planks. Once everything was put back together, the result looks pretty good. So the sides are done; and once I get the moulding to look right, I can start planking the lower hull. I need to drill the treenails, of course, but I have to wait for my drill bit order to arrive. The photo looking from the stern shows there are problems that I hope will be covered by the fashion pieces.
  14. KenW
    I'm continually impressed by your craftsmanship. It also seems to me that this is a well designed kit. Must be a pleasure after the Essex. (Although your Essex is an outstanding model.)
  15. KenW
    My experience is that Chuck is just as willing to answer questions via this site's Messenger or through emails. In fact, we worked out all of the capstan details via email.
  16. KenW
    Another Bob 'rafine' log. Great. I will follow along. Best of luck.
  17. KenW
    Hey Jon. There are some advantages to being a member of the Ship Model Society of NJ. Chuck Passaro is an active member. Chuck is also willing to cut special orders for anyone. Working out the details was easy.
  18. KenW
    I must be getting old. I further neglected to mention that the redheart wood that Jason supplied for my capstan was cut by Chuck Passaro based on a plan he had made for the capstan he will eventually use on his Winchelsea. It is like a capstan kit which I put together. I don't believe Chuck actually has made a capstan yet, so I guess I was his 'beta' tester for this piece. I can say that the quality is the same as all of Chuck's kits.
  19. KenW
    Congratulations!!! You have created a truly wonderful looking model. I still use your logs as reference for my efforts. Best of luck on the Cheerful. Cheers.
  20. KenW
    Thanks Augie and Jon. Jon: I think your plaque looks good. Like I said, I used the printing method on my last build (for both the name and the fancy decoration) so I stuck with it. Cheers.
  21. KenW
    Thanks Chuck, Jon and Dave and the 'likes'. Jon - The MS kit comes with a transom piece with the window opening cut out. They also supply the frames. The fit wasn't the best (the frames were slightly small), but the result was fine. Chuck - I created the "Rattlesnake" lettering in Paint Shop Pro since I couldn't figure out the curve in Word or PhotoShop. I just got the letters to be the right size and printed it out and glued the paper to the transom. I used the same technique on the stern of the Fair American. On the previous post, I forgot to mention that I made a capstan from scratch in the Redheart wood I got from Jason. A photo is below. Cheers.
  22. KenW
    Its been a long time since I made a post; due to problems and interference by 'life'. I started to plank the outer upper hull and realized that I first had to deal with the stern area. The transom and counter must be in place before planking. I had a lot of plans for the transom, and had to compromise on just about all of them. And this is before even getting to the fancy carvings. The result, so far, doesn’t look too bad, although it needs more sanding and some cleaning up. Also, once the transom is attached to the stern, I have to insure it’s compatible with the counter. The planking I did so far needs more sanding, as the close up photo makes obvious. But I think I’m on the right track; with a lot of challenges yet to come.
  23. KenW
    I admire your work on both the guns and the rudder. Does the method you use let the rudder move from side to side? Really impressive.
  24. KenW
    Having put furled sails on my Fair American model, I thought I'd offer my two cents. I used the Amati sail cloth after putting it through the washing & drying cycle 2 or 3 times. I also cut the sails so that while the were the proper width, they were about 50% shorter. I eliminated the reef lines and bow lines. I used Peterseen's and Lees' books and learned a lot about the different lines and the location/position of the blocks to rig them. It was a great learning experience. You can refer to my build log for more details. Cheers.
  25. KenW
    Thanks Mike. I see you are building Chuck's Cheerful as well as the Mayflower. I can't comprehend building two models at once. Anyway I will follow both. Cheers.

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