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KenW

NRG Member
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Everything posted by KenW

  1. I am fortunate to be a member of SMSNJ and was at the tech session. And I thought the the whole key to planking the lower hull was the plan. Take enough time to get the plan right. The size of each plank at each bulkhead is critical. After that, Chuch makes it look easy. Cheers.
  2. I really like the work you've done on this model. I am interested on how you make the scraper. Whether you use a single edge razor blade or a piece of brass, do you use a dremel? If so, what attachment do you use? Do you just hold the dremel in your hand? Thanks. Cheers.
  3. Thanks Augie, Brian, Eric, and Slybolt and the 'likes'. I going to try my luck at carving with this build. I'm not very optimistic, but I will post my efforts for all to see even if it's a disaster. Cheers.
  4. My first ship build was the single mast, "Armed Virginia Sloop"; my second was the two mast American Privateer, “Fair American”. Now I feel I’m ready to move up to a three mast ship and I chose the Model Shipways, “Rattlesnake”. It should offer me new challenges and keep me busy for a long while. I plan to use the plans from the ME kit, as well as plans from the Mamoli kit. I also acquired the plans from Howard Hann, which will be my ‘go to’ source whenever there are ‘disagreements’. I don’t intend to use the Robert Hunt’s kitbashed version. One challenge with the Rattlesnake is that it is a smaller scale than the two previous models. I’ll have to get used to smaller blocks, lines and many other items found on a Revolutionary era ship. To help in the transaction, I decided to make the ship’s boat first. I purchased the Model Shipways 4.75 inch boat, which seemed to be about the right size based on the kit’s plans. Rather than do a whole build log on the boat, I attach some photos of the boat’s build in progress and the finished product. I have to thank the build log by JSGerson. I followed his log and didn’t really have any problems.
  5. Hey Brian. It is frustrating but as Billy Crystal sort of said, "It's better to look good than to measure good." (He really said that it is better to look good than to feel good.) Anyway, we don't have a boss or status reports due or deadlines. So enjoy the work. Cheers.
  6. Well this should be interesting. It sounds like your kit bashing will almost be a scratch build. Hopefully you will get a beautiful model and the rest of us will learn some new modeling/woodworking techniques. Best of luck. Cheers.
  7. Congratulations!! I enjoyed following your build (once I discovered it). Excellent workmanship. I hope you start another ship soon. Cheers.
  8. Hey Gary. I remember being constantly aware of the back stays. I don't think delaying them would be a bad idea. Just as long as you 'move up' with them. In other words, insure that the top sail back stays are done before you move to the top gallant yard. Might be a good idea. Cheers.
  9. I just used standard paper from staples - nothing special. I used Elmer's school glue since it is paper.
  10. Thanks Jim and wq3296. As to the letters on the stern - I cheated. I created a PaintShop Pro file with the lettering curved and with, what I thought was, the appropriate font. I then made a 'negative image' and sized it. Then it was just a matter of printing and gluing it in place. I did the same with the painted scroll work (which was a scanned image from the plans). The red curtain was painted, however. Cheers.
  11. This is one of those times when a 'like' is simply not sufficient! What a great model you are building. A really great job; and quite inspiring as well. Magnificent!
  12. Realy like the video. Did you spile the planks? I always have trouble getting the planks to be shaped just right. Cheers.
  13. Hey Gary: Just a note on wire - I use wire I got from www.ooks.com and are pleased with it. I have a coil of 28 and 24 gauge annealed wire. It is black and very tough. I can twist it and even the 28 guage doesn't break. They may have other gauges. Cheers.
  14. Thanks Ed. I see from my photo of the stern lantern that I have some touch-up to do with some black paint. I will continue to watch your build. Cheers.
  15. Jimz66 requested more photos, so I tried to take some close ups that are different from the pictures already on this log. I also should point out that the stern lantern designed by the Syren Ship Modeling Co. was outstanding. It added to the look of the model; so thanks to Chuck Passarro. The photos were taken at sundown. Cheers
  16. Thanks Dave, Jim and Bob and the 'likes'. Bob: I relied on your build log a lot. So thanks to you. I will try to take some more photos, but feel they might be repetitive. I also have my eyes on another project. Cheers.
  17. Thanks Gary, Brian and Russ and the 'likes'. My build benefited from your input. And as Russ says, "T'aint a hobby if you hurry." Enjoy and Cheers.
  18. The stern lantern wasn’t as bad as I thought as I feared. It was installed along with the flag(s) and the display stand. I think the lantern adds to the overall look of the model. That completes the model after 19 months of pleasure. Some photos of the completed model:
  19. I agree with the other comments - I think the planking looks great. I like the wood color as well. Great job. Cheers and Happy New Year.
  20. HAPPY NEW YEAR! Its back to the ship yard for what I hope will be a good 2015. I mounted the spritsail and rigged it with no problems. I also made and lashed the anchor as well as its buoys. The only problem I had was that I wish I hadn’t permanently belayed and glued the main course tack lines and the fore course sheets before running the anchor cable along the deck to the main hatch. Next is to try and make a stern lantern using the Syren Ship Model company kit. I can’t believe how small all the pieces are. I’m using the 1:64 lantern since its size corresponds to the rigging sheet of the FA plans.
  21. Hey Victorpapa. If you want to see Gary's progress on his FA build, you can access Gary's build log at: http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/4927-fair-american-by-garykap-model-shipways-scale-148/?hl=%2Bfair+%2Bamerican Cheers
  22. I can only add to what has already been said. And, I wonder when Janos will open a figurehead/carving business since I will need some help on my next model. Cheers.
  23. Hey JS - your model looks great! I agree with 'CaptainSteve'; all movable lines are considered running rigging and therefore not coated with tar. Chuck Passaro's documentation of the Syren ship shows he used tan lashings for the deadeyes. So, not coated (tan) is my vote. Cheers.
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