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KenW

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Everything posted by KenW

  1. KenW
    Thanks Gary. I wish google would allow me to print these pages. The only reason I haven't bought Harland's book is the price. Anyway, welcome back and happy modeling. Cheers.
  2. KenW
    Thanks Brian. I have been reading your AVS build log and am enjoying your progress. Cheers.
  3. KenW
    Both topsail yards have been mounted on the ship. Keeping track of all the lines can be daunting at times. I’m not totally convinced that the furled sails add much to the look of the model, but they are a valuable tool which forces me to learn what all these lines are for and what they are called. There were two issues that are worth mentioning with the topsail yards: First, I rigged the topsail lifts differently than the FA rigging plans. I tied a “span” around the topmast caps as per page 85 of Lees. The lift line was seized to the “span” and then down to a block at the end of the yard. From there the line went up through the block seized between the topmast shrouds above the futtock staves and then down to one of the cleats tied to the topmast shrouds just above the dead eyes. Secondly, I am continuing to find that when I reduced the distance between the gun ports in order to create more space between the aft guns and the housing front, I didn’t know what I was doing. That type of change has to be really well thought out. Because the distance between the gun ports is smaller, the channels are shorter. And short channels don’t leave enough room for the shroud dead eyes AND all the other lines that have to anchor themselves to the channel. So, the block that serves as the anchor for the halyard runner had to be attached to an eye bolt drilled into the hull. It doesn’t look too bad, but it is not close to being historically accurate. Oh well, on to the top gallant yards.
  4. KenW
    Ed: I knew that my explanation was complicated. I'm glad you waded through it. The sheets and tacks are going to be tied off as per the FA plans with slight modifications based on Peterseen. One thing I noticed is that the plans have two places to tie off the lower main braces and no where to tie off the lower main sheets. So since the main braces go forward and the main sheets go aft, the sheets should be tied off at the cavil near the stern. Both the sheets and the tacks will start at an eye bolt in the hull and tie off as per the (modified) plans. (See Peterseen)
  5. KenW
    I'm no sailor either, but my understanding is that the blocks and tackles, etc. were stowed when not in use. Only the pendants were 'permanent'. Cheers.
  6. KenW
    I found that one thing about adding furled sails to the FA model, it really helped to learn the names and purposes of the lines used to furl the sails. I don't know if the effort really helped the look of the model; but adding furled sails definitely was worth it from a learning perspective. Cheers.
  7. KenW
    Hey Ed: Oh boy, this is not easy to describe - and I'm assuming I have it right, which I may not. Clue line: The clue lines start by seizing a line around the yard on both starboard and port sides. They then go down to a block in each clue of the sail and up the a clue block seized to the yard near where each line started. If you have sails, they are used to pull the clues of the sail up to the yard to assist in furling the sail. The lines then tie off, in the FA case, on a belaying pin. Sheets: The sheet blocks seized to the yard is for the sheet of the yard above the yard where the block is located. That is, the sheet blocks on the lower yard are for the topmast sail's sheets. Bunt line/leech lines: These lines attach to the sail and, again, are used to haul up the sail to assist in furling. On the lower yards, there are one leech line and two bunt lines on each side of the yard. They go up through blocks seized to the front of the yard, and then to the blocks seized in under the main top and then down to a shroud cleat. On a model without furled sails, the Syren documentation uses 'stopped' lines for the bunt and leech lines. I assume that means using a line with a figure eight knot in one end and the other end goes through the blocks under the top and down to the shroud. If you look at Bob's FA build log, the Syren Documentation, and Peterseen's book, you will see a group of blocks kind of hanging from each side of the yard. That is the clue, sheet and tack blocks in the case of the main lower yard. On the fore lower yard, there are two blocks and a line with a stopper knot. That is the clue and sheet blocks; and the stopper line is the tack line. The clue line still attaches to the yard, runs through the block and back up the the clue block attached to the yard. The sheets and tacks run from the group of blocks to their tying off points. I know I have probably confused you completely. I hope that someone who reads this can explain it better. Good luck.
  8. KenW
    Upon reading the post by Joe (JPZ66), I'm wondering if the head method that the link describes has any possibility for bending planks for the hull of a model. We would need 3D bend, and I don't know if that would work. I'd be willing to try it. Has anyone else tried it?
  9. KenW
    Thanks Augie and Brian. I just modified the photos - I didn't like the colors. Better now. Thanks for the comments. Cheers.
  10. KenW
    I finished installing the fore lower yard. It was pretty much the same as the main lower yard and, as usually happens; the second one was easier than the first. In fact, there is not really much need for another build entry, but it gives me a chance to post another photo (from a different angle).
  11. KenW
    I'm still not going to rig the tackles. Because I am installing bunt lines and leech lines, I don't have any empty belaying pins. I guess my captain has the tackles stowed below. Cheers.
  12. KenW
    After a Thanksgiving that couldn’t be beat, it’s back to the shipyard. The main lower yard was installed and most of the rigging tied off. Since the lines that attach to the main mast cleats are now in place, the main gallows are installed and the staysail halyards are tied off. The brace pendants are attached but I will not be showing the tackles as the FA plans don’t have places to tie them off to. As per the Syren documentation, the buntlines/leech lines are not glued in place, just wrapped around their shroud cleats. Cheers
  13. KenW
    Just my two cents: I am not doing tackle pendants either. The main reason is the absence of 'tie off' points. Cheers.
  14. KenW
    I think it looks great. The inside is natural wood and the outside looks fine painted. You should have no regrets. And your outstanding workmanship is evident. Cheers.
  15. KenW
    Thanks for your kind words. Actually I was thinking that some day I might like to build the Confederacy. I may want to add masts and rigging though.
  16. KenW
    Sometimes a 'like' is not enough; this is one of those times. I've been very impressed with your build. And, the first gun looks great. Your work is definitely a goal for my next set of guns and, for that matter, for my next entire build. Fantastic work. Cheers.
  17. KenW
    Great work on the boom rest. Luckily you hadn't already installed the mast. Keep up the good work. Cheers.
  18. KenW
    The next sails to be installed are the jib and the fore topmast staysail. I used Antscherl to determine the actual size of the sails and then trimmed them down keeping their triangle shape. However, I didn’t reduce the foot of either sail. Each foot is somewhat long, and I wanted that to show. I also decided to install the rigging for the main topmast staysail and the main topgallant staysail. I noticed that the lines are tied off to the gallows so there won't be a problem. The metal clips you see are for their downhauls and halyards since I won’t install the gallows until all the lines are attached to the lower mast cleats. Both main staysail's rigging was done as per the Syren documentation.
  19. KenW
    I just did some research - in Lees on page 123, he shows how staysails were furled. Either the brails served as the downhauler or the downhaul line served as the brail. The sail was pulled forward down to the mast and then gaskets were used. Most drawings I have seen do not show staysails, so I still believe they spent most of their time stowed below. Cheers,
  20. KenW
    Hey Peter: Your spanker looks great. I used Lees' page 113 and the description of spanker rigging on page 114. The brailing method I decided on was probably not used until after 1818, so my method is not historically correct. I added two single brailing blocks and one double on the gaff and one single block seized to a cringle on the sail. All four lines ended up on the same mast cleat. Cheers.
  21. KenW
    Shawn and Mike: It is my understanding that except for the forward staysails, which were more like jibs, the staysails were not furled, but taken down and stowed. Interesting to hear other opinions. Cheers.
  22. KenW
    Thanks for the reply. And congrats on your new found freedom. (Still have to answer to the Admiral, of course.) I like your shape for the spanker. Did you have any problems with the brailing? I had a hard time where the gaff meets the boom. Do you have a photo of your final result? Cheers.
  23. KenW
    Thanks for replying. Handkerchief material and women's summer blouses seem to be the favorites. But you need to feel the fabric. This weekend I found an old curtain that looks to be prefect. It was washed a lot and it "hung around" for many years. I guess you can't beat old age. As to the flag, I've seen old pictures of ships in harbor with the flag flown from a pole and from the end of the gaff. I suspect it was the captain's choice. Thanks again.
  24. KenW
    Do you have the number of the "thinnest weight cotton (muslin I think) that I could find at JoAnn's Fabrics"? I don't have a store nearby, and I can't see and feel the fabric before I buy on the JoAnn" website. Thanks.
  25. KenW
    Natural - the blue on the transom and stern is too much. Just my two cents.

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