KenW
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Thanks for the information. I will check out that site. Have fun. -
I like your work and the hearts look great. What model of Byrnes saw do you use? I will also be interested to see how the crow's feet turn out. Cheers.
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Just went through this log and was extremely impressed. One request: On pages 52-55, the photos are not viewable. I think this was a bug in MSW. I'm interested in the planking process with or without spiling. Would it be possible to fill in those photos? Great job! Enjoy your vacation.
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Impressive as always. Can't wait for the finished result. Cheers.
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Thanks Ed. I will check NRG out. Thanks for the 'likes' as well. Cheers.
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Thanks Bob. Your blog is still a major reference point for my build.
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The fore topmast is installed with its standing rigging. I like the placement of the fore topmast backstay much better than the main topmast backstay. Everything went like it was supposed to. The only hard thing was drilling the fairlead holes in the knightheads. I plan to install the topgallant masts next, and then work on the jib stay and bowsprit horse.
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All the documentation I have seen does have the lower yards attached to slings with thimbles. It looks like whenever these yards were lowered, the lanyards between the sling's thimbles would have to be untied. Of course, I believe that the lower yards were only lowered to make repairs that couldn't be done by seamen aloft. I will use the slings, etc. as per the Syren doc. when I get to that point. Cheers.
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Thanks Russ. Gary: I also note that on my previous model (an Armed Virginia Sloop), the slings were seized to double blocks rather than thimbles. I don't see how the lower yards could be raised/lowered with the configuration as shown in the plans. I'm not too pleased with the rigging plan of the kit/Rodgers model.
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Gary: I'm also interested in hearing what the 'experts' say. Keep in mind that on Sheet 2 that shows each mast and yard, there are 4 eye bolts under each cap. I don't see any lines attached to them on the rigging plan, so these may be perfect places for blocks, etc., needed to rig the lower yards. Hopefully, we will get some answers before I'm ready to install and rig the yards.
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Gary: Interesting topic and conversion. I always assumed that the lower yards were not lowered very often (if at all), and therefore the instruction manual was probably correct. But, it seems that is not the case. I will check out the Syren documentation. Thanks.
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I think it looks great; specially the deck and deck furniture. The stern lantern looks outstanding. I like the gold color. Keep up with your great work.
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I'm not at home this week so I will have to wait until Sunday/Monday to check the plans. I thought that lines would pass through the eyebolts at the base of the masts and then tie off on the mast cleat above each eyebolt. But I will check this out when I get home. BTW. Block Island is BEAUTIFUL!
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Thanks Dave. And.I keep forgetting to say thanks to all the 'likes'. Thanks
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Thanks Gary I also find myself making decisions about rigging based on multiple sources. My biggest fear is to get to a point where I need an extra block or something and it isn't possible to install it. So comments on this website are a big help. Cheers
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The main topmast is installed with its standing rigging. I wasn’t pleased with the location of the topmast backstay. It is too close to the topmast shrouds and the top itself. I think this is due to my moving the gun ports closer together, which forced the channel location to be modified, which moved the deadeyes for the backstay. But I’m not going to change all that now. Another issue was the rigging of the top yard lifts. The plans have them attached to a ‘thimble’ lashed between the first and second top shrouds. This makes the yard lifts part of the standing rigging rather than the running rigging. So if the yard is ever raised, the yard lifts won’t offer any assistance and, in fact, would be left dangling in the wind. So I changed the thimble to a block and added shroud cleats for both the top yard lifts and the topgallant yard lifts. This seems more correct to me. I rigged the topmast stay as per the plans, lashing some extra line above the block in case the stay ever needed to be loosened. Also, I’m glad I didn’t glue all of the deck furniture in place until they are necessary. I have a lot more space to work in.
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Thanks Bob and Tim. Tim - you should try it; although the kit has problems that my log documents. Cheers.
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Thanks Russ and Ed. Always obey the Admiral.
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I’ve been away on a week’s vacation out in the American West and am now anxious to get back to modeling. My first task is to correct a problem with the work that’s already done. Two more blocks need to be added underneath the main top for braces. Adding blocks when the top is already glued in place is not as easy as when the top is free, but the task was done. Next I added the shroud cleats to the port side of the model. The kit didn’t include any shroud cleats so I ordered a pack of them from ME not thinking that their package comes with 10 cleats and I need at least 16. So I ordered some more and will work on the starboard side when they come. The cleats are 10mm, and they need to be filed down to about 8mm. The metal is soft and the filing was easy. I added the bunt line and brace blocks to the cross trees of the top masts. I initially used 5/32 blocks, but they were obviously too big, so I took them off and used 1/8 blocks. They seem much better. I also installed the pendants to both top masts. Lots more rigging to do.
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What a beautiful model!! Other than that, I am speechless.
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I’ve just about finished with the lower standing rigging. The only thing left to do is the shroud cleats. The problem is the kit didn’t come with any. So I’ve asked Model Expo for shroud cleats from the Armed Virginia Sloop; they are the perfect shape and size. Don’t know if they will comply. The lower ratlines were done with thin sewing thread and fastened with clove hitches as the FA instructions recommend. I found clove hitches were not hard to make – I was worried about using them. I also added an extra ratline above the futtock staff since I know the only way I will ever get to the top is through the lubber’s hole, and an extra ratline would be most welcome. We land lubbers have to stick together.
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Great workmanship. Can't wait for the head to be done.
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Thanks for your insight.
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Thanks Bob. That makes sense, given the instructions. It's just that I've never seen that kind of 'tying off' before. So unless someone else comes up with a better idea, I will go with that. Cheers.
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I have a question - While I'm still working on the lower mast's standing rigging, I am researching the rigging for the topmasts. The main topmast stay attaches to the main topmast with a mouse and the stay passes through a 1/4 inch block on the foremast. It then is seized to a 'fiddle' block (which I call a sister block) halfway down the aft side of the lower foremast. "A purchase is rove between a single-becket block on deck and the fiddle block, the hauling end being hitched to the deck block at its strap." Do you know, or have a picture of, how that hitch is done exactly?
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