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Diver

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Everything posted by Diver

  1. Not much to report on my build. Have been installing some new doors in the house over the Xmas break and just have not had the energy to go to the shop in the evenings. I have got the floor boards in now and will be proceeding as per the instructions very soon. When I have a little more done I will post some pictures.
  2. Hello Bob. No need to post pics. This evening I went into the shop, and soaked the 2 thick floor boards in hot water for 15 minutes. I then wiped them dry and with a bit off hair-dryer heat twisted and bent until they went in almost perfectly. I have now drilled all the holes for the nails and will install them tomorrow.I will wait until I have installed all the floor boards before I do the WOP. Your thoughts on that appreciated. Bob
  3. A question for my fellow builders. I am having a heck of a time getting the thick floor boards to lay flat on all the frames. I have been heating and bending numerous times and no luck yet. Any and all suggestions greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance, Bob the Diver
  4. Good evening Bob. Sorry for taking so long to reply. In the last few days I have got the urge to get back in the shop. I just came up from working on the thick and troublesome floor boards. During the nice weather, most of my off time is spent helping the Happy Gardener and doing house renos, repairs and general up-keep. I have a birthday coming up and my wife is in the process of ordering the Mast and Rigging kit for me as well as some of the Lee Valley miniature tools. Thanks for asking and I hope to up date my build log soon. How did you go about shaping the thick floor boards to fit the frames? Bob
  5. Hello Peter. Welcome from the east side of the province. (Gananoque)
  6. Stihl power tools make an excellent shop vac. When it is running you can carry on a conversation right next to it. They are pricey but are a great machine.
  7. Beautiful work. I hope mine is half as good. Been a very buy summer with no shop time but the Medway sits proudly on my work bench. I started on the floor boards today. Shorter days mean more shop time.
  8. Thanks Kurt and everyone else. I am looking forward to purchasing and using an air brush. I will probably try painting some one use water bottles just to get use to process. I am very interested in trying the different types of paints and will listen to all suggestions on what is best for a very detailed plastic model. Bob
  9. Good day Kurt. I am planning on building the Italeri 1/12 scale Fiat 806 Grand Prix car. I do not think it will be more that 12" long. I will want tp use water based paints if possible. I do have a Porter Cable pancake compressor, and an 8 gallon shop compressor. Your advise appreciated. Bob
  10. I am pondering the purchase of an air brush. Going online is daunting. They seem to range in price from $90.00 to many hundreds of dollars. I want it to be reliable with available replacement parts. Any suggestions greatly appreciated.
  11. It has taken about a year, but chapter 3 is complete. Time in the shop will be less for a while as the Admiral and I get going on the gardens etc.
  12. My biggest concern was that I might break my 0ne and only #77 drill. Being patience and stopping when my fingers got tired paid off. Very glad I did it, brings life to the hull. I did manage to put some dings in the planks when trimming the nails but have been able to sand most of them out.
  13. Excellent build. Some day I hope to have your level of skill. Being nosey, are you building in an engine room of sorts?
  14. Chapter 3 almost done. Today I will install the friezes and trim rails, (all ready cut out and shaped). I need to work on my photography or buy a new camera.
  15. I can not help myself. I did count all the holes I drilled. In one evening i drilled all the port side, the next night, the starboard side. The next evening all the mono nails were cut. Last night they were all glued in and tonight they were all trimmed, hull sanded and one coat off WOP.
  16. Welcome to the site from a fellow Ontarion. I am east of you in Gananoque, heart of the 1000 Islands. Thats a very fine looking areoplane
  17. I have stated the process of turning my Medway into a Porcupine/Hedgehog. A bit tedious but worth the effort. Many more. holes to drill
  18. Making a little head way on the Medway. I have the bolsters done and the cap rail painted with 4 coats. I am working on the trim pieces to go under the friezes. I want these fitted so as to limit any damage to the friezes. I was dreading trying to scrape the profile into the trim, but it turned out to be easier than I thought. I used my Dremel with a metal cut off wheel and ground the profile into a razor blade and scraped away.
  19. What glue have members used to apply the Friezes. I was thinking of watered down tite-bond. Good or bad choice?
  20. Thanks for the tip. I did sand all the char off and thinned down the frames before installing the cap rail. I now have my bolsters on and am sanding down the outside of the rail to the recommended width. I will then tackle the inside and install the sheer plank. How is your build coming? Bob
  21. Not a good night in the shop. I installed the starboard side forward cap rail, only to see that I did not have it down flush at the stem. After much work I removed the cap rail, took out the hump and cleaned everything up. I then reinstalled the cap rail, only to discover that I had installed the port side cap rail on the stbd side. Now I feel like an idiot. The luxury of working with wood is I cut a piece to go in the roller slot and it is now in place. I bit of filler and sanding and it should not be visible once it is Painted. I then cut the roller slot in the stbd side cap rail and installed it on the port side. All good now but have to remind myself to go slow and be careful.
  22. Thanks for a great article. When I was in the RCN, they were always referred to as Kisby Rings. Woe be tied anybody called them anything else
  23. Just to be sure. The Cap Rail should be glued to the sheer of the wales and the frames. The picture shows I am low on a couple of frames. I do not want to sand the sheer down that far. Would it be wise to glue some small spacers on the offending frames? It is only on the stbd side, the port side is fine
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