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Diver

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Everything posted by Diver

  1. Diver
    I can not help myself. I did count all the holes I drilled. In one evening i drilled all the port side, the next night, the starboard side. The next evening all the mono nails were cut. Last night they were all glued in and tonight they were all trimmed, hull sanded and one coat off WOP.
  2. Diver
    Welcome to the site from a fellow Ontarion. I am east of you in Gananoque, heart of the 1000 Islands. Thats a very fine looking areoplane
  3. Diver
    I have stated the process of turning my Medway into a Porcupine/Hedgehog. A bit tedious but worth the effort. Many more. holes to drill
  4. Diver
    Making a little head way on the Medway. I have the bolsters done and the cap rail painted with 4 coats. I am working on the trim pieces to go under the friezes. I want these fitted so as to limit any damage to the friezes. I was dreading trying to scrape the profile into the trim, but it turned out to be easier than I thought. I used my Dremel with a metal cut off wheel and ground the profile into a razor blade and scraped away.
  5. Diver
    What glue have members used to apply the Friezes. I was thinking of watered down tite-bond. Good or bad choice?
  6. Diver
    Thanks for the tip. I did sand all the char off and thinned down the frames before installing the cap rail. I now have my bolsters on and am sanding down the outside of the rail to the recommended width. I will then tackle the inside and install the sheer plank. How is your build coming? Bob
  7. Diver
    Not a good night in the shop. I installed the starboard side forward cap rail, only to see that I did not have it down flush at the stem. After much work I removed the cap rail, took out the hump and cleaned everything up. I then reinstalled the cap rail, only to discover that I had installed the port side cap rail on the stbd side. Now I feel like an idiot. The luxury of working with wood is I cut a piece to go in the roller slot and it is now in place. I bit of filler and sanding and it should not be visible once it is Painted. I then cut the roller slot in the stbd side cap rail and installed it on the port side. All good now but have to remind myself to go slow and be careful.
  8. Diver
    Thanks for a great article. When I was in the RCN, they were always referred to as Kisby Rings. Woe be tied anybody called them anything else
  9. Diver
    Just to be sure. The Cap Rail should be glued to the sheer of the wales and the frames. The picture shows I am low on a couple of frames. I do not want to sand the sheer down that far. Would it be wise to glue some small spacers on the offending frames? It is only on the stbd side, the port side is fine
  10. Diver
    Thanks Chuck. Very satisfying to get to this point. It seems as though all my mishaps have just disappeared.
  11. Diver
    Managed to cut out all the frame pieces, and put on two coats of WOP. Will sand the frames and Wales and install the Cap Rail next.
  12. Diver
    So I have hit a Milestone. The planking is finished, except for trimming the the wales. My views on the build so far: This is my very first build and a lot of mistakes have been made, and I would like the finish to have been better. Having said that, no matter what kit I had started with, the same or worse mistakes would have been made. I thank everyone on this site for their input, guidance and support. I have learned how to shape planks, recut planks, install planks, and how to remove planks. Also learned how to make tools to get glue into tight places, various sanding tools and so on. I have a lot more work to do to finish this project and have decided on my next build. That will be Lady Eleanor from Vanguard Models. I will purchase it from Ages Of Sail. Off to town today to pick up a drill set with the .018 bits so I can add the nails. Thanks Chuck for a great kit.
  13. Diver
    Excellent work. I think I have about 12 recut planks, but that was do more to breakage and inexperience than anything else.
  14. Diver
    Thanks for the likes. A quick question on attaching the second layer of planks, should I use Tite-Bond or CA?
  15. Diver
    Have had some time in the shop and got the planking done except for the second layer at the wales. Going to need some sanding to smooth out the hull but I am satisfied. I know there is room for improvement in my skills, but this is what it is all about , learning as we progress.
  16. Diver
    I do hope I am not breaking any rules but this is the kind of detail this book brings to sharpening.
  17. Diver
    I take great pride in sharpening all my shop tools, plane irons, chisels, and knifes. Some years ago my wife bought me a book written by Leonard Lee of Lee Valley Tools. This is an excellent book that covers all aspects of sharpening, metallurgy, and and stone construction. The ISBN # for the book is ISBN 1-56158-125-9. It is listed on the Lee Valley Tool web site. Hope this is helpful to some.
  18. Diver
    I agree with your views. I went through high school in the mid to late 60s. I took all the shop classes, drafting, wood working, metal working, and mechanics. I then went to a true technical college and took Machinist Mechanics training. I consider myself an old school mechanic. We used to rebuild parts, not just exchange them until the problem went away. You would be hard pressed to find a Automotive Service Technician that can rebuild a starter, or turn a brake drum. Having said that, the computer has made a lot of tasks much easier, and a lot easier to make corrections.
  19. Diver
    I am thinking of purchasing the Proxon mini vice with the suction cup base. Do any members have experience with this product, or recommendations for a similar product. Thanks in advance. Bob
  20. Diver
    Help..... I am trying to install plank #11, 6th strake up from the keel, stem end. I am on my 5th attempt at this piece and can not get the forward end of the plank to curve into the rabbet, the last 1/4". I am able to get the compound curve on most of the plank but the last 1/4" eludes me. What am I not doing? Every attempt at curving the last bit ends up with a broken plank. Thanks in advance. Bob
  21. Diver
    I had one off the tabs on the build-board snap off. I glued it back on and no problem after that. Looking forward to your build. Bob
  22. Diver
    Looking good. I will follow your build with interest. What was your source for that piece of Basswood?.. I live in eastern Ontario, (Kingston area) Thanks. Bob
  23. Diver
    Thanks Bob. I know that I am my own worst critic, but still enjoy being in the shop. This is a hobby that I have wanted to get involved in since my first visit to the Maritime Museum in Victoria when I was a boy. If I achieve similar results on my build as you did on yours I will be over the moon happy. Your build of the PenDuick is a fine example of craftsmanship. Love the paint. Bob
  24. Diver
    Thanks Bob and Havelock. When I look at my build I see every flaw and mistake and wish I had more experience in ship modeling. I then remind myself that this is my first build. I believe that any model I could have chosen would have ended up with the same mistakes and flaws. It is a hobby with a learning curve, and I am learning . I do hope to someday be able to build a museum quality ship. As far as my Longboat build I will achieve a mantel piece model short of a disaster, and worse come to worse there is nothing that wood filler and paint can not hide. LOL
  25. Diver
    I Finally got some shop time. Owning an older home can take up a lot of time in the good weather. I am almost half way with my planking, 4 out of 9, and hope to do some more this evening. When is it a good time to remove the reinforcing tape on the frames? Should I do it now or wait until planking is complete. This is a slow build for me but enjoy my shop time, as little as it is. As you all can see I did cut one plank two short, so I did the same on the other side for balance.

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