Maury S

Druxey,  I'm thrilled to see a log from you.  So much to learn from  a master.
Maury

Nicely done!
Maury

Nicely done!
Maury

The chainplates are attached to the deadeyes with a pin made from black monofilament line.  I touch both ends of the line with a soldering iron set to 240 degrees...just hot enough to partially melt the end and create a rivet to hold it in place.

 

I'll touch up the copper with LOS and put a coat of WOP on them.
Maury
Maury

Thanks, Michael.  Continued work on iron bands, etc.  Not up to Ed Tosti standards, but moving in that direction.

 
The gammon irons (on the left) look awful at this magnification...I'll clean them up and re-blacken.
Next will be the deadeye straps.
Maury

Metalwork continued---Chain Plates:  They are laid out clearly on the plan sheet.  (Ignore the notes on scale).
 

 
Translated to copper, filed, drilled and blackened with LOS:

The pair holding the topmast backstay are set with shackles, not deadeyes.
Maury

SPREADER:  I had to re-design the spreader.  The original was directly above the trestle trees and would have interfered with the top mast shrouds.  The spreader is now swept back so the shrouds will be clear.

 

Maury

Main mast top:    looking aft

 
Looking fwd:

 
Slow progress.
Maury

Mast Bands:  Now that I was sure I could fabricate the mast bands, I formed the various parts for each of the 5 bands:

 
Using the flux-containing solder provided enough "stickiness" to hold the pieces together while soldering.  After a bit of cleanup, they were test-fitted.  More minor cleanup (filing) and blackening (using LOS) to do.

 
The lower piece at the top of the mast has a tab on the fore and aft end and vertical tabs on each side all held in place for one pass of the torch.
 
Maury

The boom tackle is for preventing the boom from moving across the ship during an "accidental" jibe.  When in use, one end is attached to the boom and the other end runs forward and attaches to a ring or some other rigid spot.  Accidental jibes are quite dangerous to crew members if the boom sweeps across the deck unexpectedly.
Maury

Frames Installation:
Proceeding frames 1 - 15.  Dead Flat is at 13 (although they number frames 1 - 26).  Frame 6 was re-centered and leveled. Frame 15 is being held against the gantry cross-bar until the glue sets.

I have not yet replaced the hold-down nuts.  Any suggestions on how to (epoxy) them in place without fouling the nuts would be appreciated.
Maury

The channels were made and installed next.  These were glued and pinned to the hull.  The covering strip is only temporarily installed.  These also have a carved edge, similar but slightly narrower than the sheer rail.

The deadeyes were turned from swiss pear.  The chains are brass,  The middle link was silver soldered and shaped first.  The toe link and deadeye binding were then installed.  These were shaped and the deadeye installed after they were soldered.  The ironwork was then blackened and given a coat of matte finish.  The preventer plate was cut out from sheet brass.

Next up was making the drift rail and hance.  The hance is a section of rail that forms almost a ninety degree bend as it connects the drift rail with the planksheer.  I tried several times to carve it from a single piece of costelo.  I finally gave up and made it from three laminations, heat bent to shape.  This has the same molded edge as the planksheer.  Below the drift rail is the wider drift molding which terminates in a volute just behind the hance.  We are now up to eight molding profiles.

I decided to paint the rails and their extensions onto the hull, the planksheer and the drift rail.  To prevent getting paint on the hull, the undersurface of these would be painted off the model, the rails installed and then the upper surface and edges painted.  The planksheer offered no difficulty.  Because the curvature of the roughtree rail was gentler, I was able to heat bend a strip of costelo to the required shape.  The photo is after a few coats of very thin artist acrylic paint.  It still needs cleaning up and a coat of finish applied.


 
 

I've got a cyclone hooked up to a ShopVac and handle the noise issue with a good set of headphones. 
Maury

I don't think it's appropriate to FLUSH those tissues.  Those chemicals end up in the ocean or your water supply.  Soak them in water and allow them to dry outdoors.  They can then be thrown in the trash.
Maury

The chainplates are attached to the deadeyes with a pin made from black monofilament line.  I touch both ends of the line with a soldering iron set to 240 degrees...just hot enough to partially melt the end and create a rivet to hold it in place.

 

I'll touch up the copper with LOS and put a coat of WOP on them.
Maury
Maury

Time for a brief update. Everything has gone without too many redos 🙂. I must say David’s book explains things very well and I rarely have to go beyond it for guidance. A few notables: 
 
I found my self-levelling laser quite helpful for getting things to stand vertically. If I would just find the energy to build a proper height gauge I would accomplish the same goal, but the laser is a pretty good substitute.
 
When it came time to make the windlass pins I was puzzled about how to make a round hole on both holders considering each holder is in two parts (pins and retaining caps). This is likely elementary to many of you. My solution was to first slice the mid part of where the hole would go using a slitting blade. I then made sure I could get a solid clamp with my mill so that it would hold firmly when I used my 3/8 inch Brad bit. 
 
The carlings for the huge main hatch follow the deck sheer so they should be pre-bent before installation.
 
Ian
 
Laser setup.

 

 
Checking deck beams for height.

 
Hole for windlass pins and retaining caps.

 
Windlass pins installed.

 
 
Carlings, hanging and lodging knees.

 
Forward starboard bulkhead made of baltic birch core and 9 inch holly planks with dados to key into pawl post and windlass pin.

 
Forward starboard bulkhead installed.

 
Capstan holder (unattached). Tapered to be level.

 
View from stern.

 
Bow to stern.

Moving forward, though much slower...
 

 
 

 
 
 
 

 
 
 
 

The chainplates are attached to the deadeyes with a pin made from black monofilament line.  I touch both ends of the line with a soldering iron set to 240 degrees...just hot enough to partially melt the end and create a rivet to hold it in place.

 

I'll touch up the copper with LOS and put a coat of WOP on them.
Maury
Maury

I put these in my garage / workshop and the amount of light is significant.
https://www.amazon.com/s?k=led+garage+lights&ref=nb_sb_noss
Maury

The chainplates are attached to the deadeyes with a pin made from black monofilament line.  I touch both ends of the line with a soldering iron set to 240 degrees...just hot enough to partially melt the end and create a rivet to hold it in place.

 

I'll touch up the copper with LOS and put a coat of WOP on them.
Maury
Maury

Thanks, Michael.  Continued work on iron bands, etc.  Not up to Ed Tosti standards, but moving in that direction.

 
The gammon irons (on the left) look awful at this magnification...I'll clean them up and re-blacken.
Next will be the deadeye straps.
Maury

The chainplates are attached to the deadeyes with a pin made from black monofilament line.  I touch both ends of the line with a soldering iron set to 240 degrees...just hot enough to partially melt the end and create a rivet to hold it in place.

 

I'll touch up the copper with LOS and put a coat of WOP on them.
Maury
Maury

The chainplates are attached to the deadeyes with a pin made from black monofilament line.  I touch both ends of the line with a soldering iron set to 240 degrees...just hot enough to partially melt the end and create a rivet to hold it in place.

 

I'll touch up the copper with LOS and put a coat of WOP on them.
Maury
Maury

I put these in my garage / workshop and the amount of light is significant.
https://www.amazon.com/s?k=led+garage+lights&ref=nb_sb_noss
Maury

Thanks, Michael.  Continued work on iron bands, etc.  Not up to Ed Tosti standards, but moving in that direction.

 
The gammon irons (on the left) look awful at this magnification...I'll clean them up and re-blacken.
Next will be the deadeye straps.
Maury