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Everything posted by scratch
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Beautiful work Danny . I looked at HobbyMill and noticed they have finished the masting package , that's a bugger . David
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Super work , absolutely super work Remco . David
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Very very nice Danny . I love the woods you have used . Is all the wood from hobby mill ? I know the framing is from the hobbymill but just wondered about the other timbers . Or did you source some from within Australia . David
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Those details , wow . Master class work Remco. David
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Even the way your feeling Danny you still build quicker then me , and have a neater finish . Love your work . David
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Lovely work Toni . I like your leveller , is that on your phone ? David
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Agreed . 5 to 10 years would be just right the way my eyes are failing , it would probably be my last build .have been slowly collecting what I need the last couple of years . Just need to buy the plans from the NMM and the timber . David
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For finish , in my opinion , I would go the thickness sander . As for price , well that can vary depending on the manufacturer (as is the quality ) . I'm currently saving for a thickness sander and will be buying the Byrnes model . I already have a couple of the Brynes machines and know how well designed and built they are . David
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Nice work Ben , very clean . Will watch with a lot of interest as i would like to try a Swan class scratch build . David
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Beautiful , just beautiful work Toni . ): David
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Lovely work Danny . So precise . I have now received my swan books for the TFFM . Just trying to decide which swan class to build . David
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By all means Rod , if you would like to copy them , go for it . For the caulking I used a pencil as well . If you do use a pencil to simulate the caulking don't use any sand paper to smooth it down . All it does is smear the graphite all over the planking and is a nightmare to clean up . I used a a razor blade ( you can get a pack of 100 for $20 at www.mytoolstore.com.au ) or you can also use a piece of glass as well and scrap it smooth .I laid the planks in full lengths then marked the scale length when all had dried . The butt joints were made with a chisel exacto blade that was ground down to the width of the planks . then i simulated the butt joints with the pencil again not using sand paper but a razor blade to smooth it all out .Make sure the pencil is sharp . Thank you very much Bindy for your kind words . Modelers Shipyard have great after sales service. David
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Hello every-one Nothing really to explain with the pin rail stands or the ships bell . Both done out of walnut . I left the ships bell as is and just gave it a little polish to shine it up a bit . The fore and main mast pin rails are all standard . Nothing to say to paint it black , but i prefer the black than to leave it just as ply . The Davits , again i changed from the ply parts . I think they look a lot better than the kit supplied one's . The transom decoration was a cast part . ( i would of liked to have tried to carve one but my skill is nowhere near that type of detail yet ) a bit of scraping to get all the burs off then a good clean , under coat and then a couple of top coats of gold leaf . I used a 5 minute epoxy to attatch it to the transom . Now this is where i am up to now . The next step is the ships boats . These might take a while as i don't like all the ply with them . Will see what happens . David
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