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barkeater

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Everything posted by barkeater

  1. If the wood between A and C is part of the rising wood, then your frame would sit on top of the rising wood giving the horizontal line in the drawing and it then matches up with C being your point of contact. Everything below C is rising wood and keel. This is just my opinion and others may see it differently.
  2. I don't want to get into 3D printing but I can't find any sailor figures in 1/48 scale which is what I do. Seems to me that someone could make a nice side business in making 3D figures in the various scales we work in. I'm sure that there are plenty of builders out there who would be happy to buy some to add to their build. Checked out Hero Forge but they don't offer the kinds of figures I want for my builds.
  3. That's a pretty cool idea to build all the ships with the same name as the vessel you served on and the ships you list are quite varied in size and time period. I look forward to seeing your progress.
  4. Welcome to the forum. I'm a New Jersey builder also.
  5. If you want sheets try Rockler. Easier to do hulls where you use a lot of wood strips by buying strips on line imo.
  6. You don't indicate single or double planked. If double I use boxwood for first planking and then do the hull in walnut. Cherry would work as well. Boxwood strips of various widths and thicknesses are widely available which is why I don't rip my own. Same with walnut and cherry although I do rip these unless I need a lot of them in which case ordering is easier. You can also use Tanganyika for a first layer. Just looked at Model Expo and they have both boxwood and Tanganyika to get you started. Other sources will have as well.
  7. This is how I did it on Badger. Nothing elaborate.
  8. You don't mention heat/steam bending. If you aren't then pre-bending or shaping your plank will make final gluing a lot easier.
  9. I agree that it is probably a glue stain. My guess is that you were using cyanoacrylate glue which is known to do this and is tough to sand out as it penetrates the wood. Switch to polyvinyl alcohol (wood glue or yellow glue) and you will solve your problem going forward. My recommendation is to only use CA when bonding plastic or metal to wood. Wood to wood use PVA.
  10. I agree with everybody above. The most commonly used for ship modelling are the smaller numbered bits 61 to 80. The only thing I would add is that when you decide on a size for say trunnels or other frequently used application where drilling is required to buy in bulk. You can buy them by the pack on Amazon or other retailer and they are inexpensive. I use #72 for trunnels and because of the small size, I break them fairly routinely.
  11. Looks great. I'm getting ready to convert a portion of a barn into a workshop myself. Like how you did the counter and nice placement of outlets above
  12. Really like the stove. I assume you are going to leave the door to the cook shack open.
  13. It would not work in your 1/96 scale but in 1/48 scale which I do, I use round toothpicks which I cut and shape to size. Pretty easy to do and they look good.
  14. To hold your line tight until the glue dries just leave some extra and use a clip as a weight and dangle it over the outboard side. Also if you are adding multiple lines to say a yard you can keep the tension on all your lines using this method until you have them all adjusted to you liking and the glue all at the same time. Rich
  15. I have not had a problem with drooping lines. I don't glue pins. I cinch the lines around the pins a couple times as you would securing a regular size vessel then glue with thinned white glue. I then coil a separate line, place over the pin and glue again with thinned carpenters glue.
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