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barkeater
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Everything posted by barkeater
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You want to have as near to a perfect hull before your second planking as possible. We all make mistakes or have difficulties. Use filler to smooth out any imperfections but be aware that when you glue the second planking that it will not adhere as well to filler/paste/putty as to wood. So don't go overboard. No pun intended. It is always better to fix problems first before you continue on as you will be fighting the same problem again. Rich
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One constant about this hobby is that there are always unexpected problems which arise which need to be solved.
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Paint or blackening
barkeater replied to Bill Hill's topic in Painting, finishing and weathering products and techniques
You could use Brass Black sold on Amazon. I used it and it appears to be the same stuff. Rich -
Paint or blackening
barkeater replied to Bill Hill's topic in Painting, finishing and weathering products and techniques
It's a matter of opinion and personal preference. I like the look of blackening compared to painting. I also put on Dullcote over the blackening which gives a duller finish. I have used black paint with good results as well. If painting do a test to make sure you like the color. All black paint is not the same color or finish. I think painting is easier but blackening looks more realistic in my opinion. -
I also go for 1 mm. It is easier to work with. Also agree Tanganiyka is good for decks but go with walnut or cherry for the hull.
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Looking good. I don't about system rig or jig. There are books out there on rigging but the ones I know of are for three masters. If you are talking about a system or methodology for rigging then think about it this way. Start with all of your central or midline rigging then move outward to starboard and port. On the picture in your manual that would be the lines in black which they presumably did in black to indicate the standing rigging instead of running rigging. Also start at one end and work towards the other. I start with the bow and work to the stern. So I would start with the bow working my central rigging to the stern and then go back to the bow and work those lines which are tied to the sides of the ship both port and starboard. These lines should be paired both port and starboard and do both pairs at the same time which will give you good side to side tension on your mast.
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Congratulations! It looks great.
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This is from Sailing Man of War 1650-1850 by Goodwin which may clarify. The area you marked A is your rabbet.
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If the wood between A and C is part of the rising wood, then your frame would sit on top of the rising wood giving the horizontal line in the drawing and it then matches up with C being your point of contact. Everything below C is rising wood and keel. This is just my opinion and others may see it differently.
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3d printing crew figures
barkeater replied to highlanderburial's topic in 3D-Printing and Laser-Cutting.
I don't want to get into 3D printing but I can't find any sailor figures in 1/48 scale which is what I do. Seems to me that someone could make a nice side business in making 3D figures in the various scales we work in. I'm sure that there are plenty of builders out there who would be happy to buy some to add to their build. Checked out Hero Forge but they don't offer the kinds of figures I want for my builds. -
Coming together nicely.
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Looks good. I have never used an air brush so don't know anything about them.
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looks good.
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Looks like it is coming along nicely.
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"Splice the mainbrace, me hearties!"
barkeater replied to Renown1980's topic in New member Introductions
That's a pretty cool idea to build all the ships with the same name as the vessel you served on and the ships you list are quite varied in size and time period. I look forward to seeing your progress. -
Welcome to the forum. I'm a New Jersey builder also.
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If you want sheets try Rockler. Easier to do hulls where you use a lot of wood strips by buying strips on line imo.
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You don't indicate single or double planked. If double I use boxwood for first planking and then do the hull in walnut. Cherry would work as well. Boxwood strips of various widths and thicknesses are widely available which is why I don't rip my own. Same with walnut and cherry although I do rip these unless I need a lot of them in which case ordering is easier. You can also use Tanganyika for a first layer. Just looked at Model Expo and they have both boxwood and Tanganyika to get you started. Other sources will have as well.
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This is how I did it on Badger. Nothing elaborate.
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Planking pins/nails
barkeater replied to DaveBaxt's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
You don't mention heat/steam bending. If you aren't then pre-bending or shaping your plank will make final gluing a lot easier.
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