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barkeater

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Everything posted by barkeater

  1. barkeater
    Dremel?!!!! You are a brave man. Glad it worked out. Looks great.
  2. barkeater
    If you are going to stain it, do it before you add a different wood unless you are going to stain that wood too with the same stain/color. I do not stain at all but leave the wood natural color. As to varnish, varnish will give you a shiny surface. depending on what you are building this may be good or bad. I use Testores Dullcoat which is a matte finish and does not shine. For what I build I feel the dull finish is more appropriate. Take a test try on scrap if in doubt. Rich
  3. barkeater
    Agree that the break was a blessing in disguise. It looks much better without the bulge.
  4. barkeater
    Great stuff. I find it very puzzling too why on the earlier repair the preventer was run under the pin rail. Snaking it under makes no sense from an accuracy point of view and would be harder to do? From the picture it looks like there was enough clearance to run it straight to the bowsprit.
  5. barkeater
    Have you ever tried fly tying thread? I fly fish and starting using it on my builds. It comes in very small sizes much thinner than sowing thread. I use 6/0 and 8/0 to serve or lash lines. It comes in many colors including black and tan.
  6. barkeater
    Interesting that you are starting to get more background info on the model.
  7. barkeater
    The splice came out nice.
  8. barkeater
    Enjoying your work. Is there any way to use bone instead of ivory?
  9. barkeater
    Boat looks great. Looking forward to seeing your progression with the project.
  10. barkeater
    Your paint job came out nice.
  11. barkeater
    I use Elmer's carpenter wood glue. I take the piece of wood I'm matching and use a file to make saw dust onto a piece of wax paper. Then I take a tooth pick, dip it into the glue and roll it around in the dust. I then pack this into the gap with the toothpick. Then I smooth out the surface with my finger or a scalpel blade. Let it dry and sand it smooth. Rich
  12. barkeater
    Wow, this is a challenge to say the least. Interested to see how you will do it.
  13. barkeater
    I've make my own wood filler using saw dust and PVA all the time. It works great. I recommend this method over commercial fillers anywhere the area will be seen on the finished model. Because it matches the color of the wood you are using it blends right in and hides any gap well. I do use commercial filler for my first planking because this will not be seen and it is easier to just get it out of a can or tube. Rich
  14. barkeater
    Thank you for all your replies. The paired pumps on the side view "as refit" are different for and aft compared to one another and are different from the drawings "as taken". The "as taken" pumps are identical to one another. The unpaired one is seen only on the "as fit" deck plans. Instead of a chain pump or elm tree pump for draining the well, I think it is a hand pump for deck cleaning fed from a cistern. The following is from Lavery in "Arming and Fitting of English Ships of War 1600-1815" " A new system of supplying water for washing decks was introduced in 1770. The dockyards were ordered to 'fix a cistern in the well on board all three- and two=decked ships building, repairing and refitting" The cistern was fed with clean sea water from both sides of the vessel via copper pipe ensuring water to draw from if the ship was under sail and heeling over. The time frame fits as does the unpaired configuration. I'm going with it. Thanks again to all.
  15. barkeater
    The 38 gun Unite 1796 refit which I'm building was not the Surprise. She was taken as the L'Unite' and renamed Unite' after the refit. She was briefly commanded by Nelson in 1801. The plans clearly show that the pumps fore and aft the mainmast are of distinctly different types with the forward pumps being elm pumps and those aft chain pumps. I'm still lefty with the unpaired structure. It would be odd to have an unpaired chain pump or elm pump. Also the picture above of the Surprise shows carronades and on the gun deck. The Unite' carried 12 pounders on her gun deck. She did carry 4 32 pound carronades but this was on the forecastle.
  16. barkeater
    This is a view of the upper deck or gun deck Unite 1796 refit. The paired rounded structures aft and forward of the main mast looking at the side view (not uploaded) are chain pumps and elm pumps respectively adjacent to the main mast. My question is what is the unpaired octagonal structure. This is not shown on the lateral as the pumps are. It is also indicated on the lower deck in the floor plan but also not the lateral view. It could be for the cable compressor however this was usually situated on the undersurface of the main hatch. The quarterdeck shows paired scuttles above it and the shot locker would be adjacent to it on the orlop deck. Could it be a pass through for shot up through the lower and upper decks? I doubt it but I just can't figure it out with a degree of certainty as to what it represents on the plans. Ideas?
  17. barkeater
    Nice quoins.
  18. barkeater
    You want to have as near to a perfect hull before your second planking as possible. We all make mistakes or have difficulties. Use filler to smooth out any imperfections but be aware that when you glue the second planking that it will not adhere as well to filler/paste/putty as to wood. So don't go overboard. No pun intended. It is always better to fix problems first before you continue on as you will be fighting the same problem again. Rich
  19. barkeater
    One constant about this hobby is that there are always unexpected problems which arise which need to be solved.
  20. barkeater
    You could use Brass Black sold on Amazon. I used it and it appears to be the same stuff. Rich
  21. barkeater
    It's a matter of opinion and personal preference. I like the look of blackening compared to painting. I also put on Dullcote over the blackening which gives a duller finish. I have used black paint with good results as well. If painting do a test to make sure you like the color. All black paint is not the same color or finish. I think painting is easier but blackening looks more realistic in my opinion.
  22. barkeater
    I also go for 1 mm. It is easier to work with. Also agree Tanganiyka is good for decks but go with walnut or cherry for the hull.
  23. barkeater
    Looking good. I don't about system rig or jig. There are books out there on rigging but the ones I know of are for three masters. If you are talking about a system or methodology for rigging then think about it this way. Start with all of your central or midline rigging then move outward to starboard and port. On the picture in your manual that would be the lines in black which they presumably did in black to indicate the standing rigging instead of running rigging. Also start at one end and work towards the other. I start with the bow and work to the stern. So I would start with the bow working my central rigging to the stern and then go back to the bow and work those lines which are tied to the sides of the ship both port and starboard. These lines should be paired both port and starboard and do both pairs at the same time which will give you good side to side tension on your mast.
  24. barkeater
    Congratulations! It looks great.
  25. barkeater
    This is from Sailing Man of War 1650-1850 by Goodwin which may clarify. The area you marked A is your rabbet.

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