JerryTodd
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Everything posted by JerryTodd
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I got a bit more done. The forward access hatch is nearly covered and that will finish all those fiddly bits dealing with it's seams. The aft hatch is done and there's decking from stem to stern, now it's filling in the bow quarters. If the glue and the wood hold out, I should have it done tomorrow.
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I ain't touching that till there's a sealant of some sort on the deck
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There will be a bit of gasket material in there - there's some card stuck there now to take up the space while I fit the decking. I'm not going for "water-tight" more like "water-resistant." Today I hope to get the aft end planked and work up the port side. I'm thinking it'll all be down by Wednesday. There's a cap that goes all around the edge of the deck, it's more like a log. I have to piece that together around the bow and stern, the sides are simply a nice long piece that springs on. I got a bag of bamboo skewers I'm going to use as tren'ls to anchor that down. While she won't be "finished" at that point, she'll look more like she is. I need to turn the spokes for the wheel and those bowling pin stanchions, but none of the wood I have handy is working out for that. I had a little boxwood which I think will do great, but I haven't been able to find it.
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Got TWO bottles of gel CA and continued with a few more strakes up the port side, and got down a lot of the foredeck area.
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Using a sheave on a double block as a becket???
JerryTodd replied to Captain Al's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
I have seen a stopper knot at the sheave, and the line rove through the 2 doubles then to a belaying pin. In this case the original becket block failed (the phenolic sheave split) and they only had a double block handy. (this was on a real vessel, not a model). To me, a line made off to a eye-bolt implies that the belay at the other end is the working end and that second sheave is used but the line is made-off at the block. -
Sometime during the Cretaceous period (2009 to be precise), when I designed and installed the deck beams, I got it into my head to make it all this thick. The plywood was what I had on hand, so that's easy, but I can't for the life of me recall why I opted to make the deck planking this thick. Not just the deck, but the deck beams as well, there's no need for them to be as large as I've made them. Pride is done the same way, but set up to use 1/16" (1mm?) planking. In her case the planking, while thinner, is about twice as wide, and using CA to glue it down may be an issue. Macedonian is going to use 1/8" luan plywood (door-skin) for a sub-deck and 1/16" thick planking over that. A 4' x 8' sheet of door-skin sells for about the same as a 1' x 2' sheet of 1/16" aircraft ply, so I'll get thicker decks, but I get fo'c's'le, quarter deck, and gundeck with a good bit of ply left over for a whole lot cheaper.
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About 60 pieces laid down so far. Painted the hatches and hatch wells...
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Making some progress. The aft access hatch requires fitting nearly every piece and makes it a bit tedious, but it's going along... Monday Tuesday
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Finally Spring has arrived and I got into the shop to get some work done - most of it Civil War stuff for an upcoming event, but I at least got started on Constellation's deck! I'm using CA to glue the planks down to the fiberglass over plywood subdeck, and permanent marker for the plank seams. Once I get the area around this hatch done, it'll go pretty quick until I get to the forward such hatch. The aft pivot gun will be mounted on this hatch, and I'm thinking I'll make it so that twisting the gun carriage latches the hatch shut.
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I assume you have the Artesia Latina kit which depicts the 1854 sloop of war being restored as a 1797 frigate. In that case, you might want to finish her as she appeared in Baltimore in those days... The gun strip was a sort-of cream color, not white.
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Here at the end of March and it's still cold. We got one day that peeked at 70°f but it rained and rained and the next day it dropped to the 30's again. I gotta get some heat (and AC) into that garage. They say it's supposed to get into the 60's during the week, so maybe I can finally get back to work. Timmo; Constellation's ballasted with a 2" id PVC pipe filled with lead bird shot and weighing about 42 pounds. This is attached to the hull via two ss threaded rods through aluminum tubes in the hull. The tops of these rods are hidden by the stove-pipe forward and the cabin skylight aft. She'll also get about 15 pounds in lead-shot "bean-bags" inside the hull to bring her down to her lines and trim her. My drawing of the model at the beginning of this log shows the pipe at the bottom of the hull. This gets the weight as low as possible and being detachable, makes the model lighter and a bit easier to handle out of the water. Macedonian will be getting the same basic treatment though I might use a steel pipe instead of PVC to get the same weight in a shorter pipe.
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"Janniary was some cold hon!" said someone from Baltimore back when February started - I'll wager they've forgotten January now. It didn't get above freezing for more than 3 days this month past, and they weren't three days together. The average high for the month was 26° f and the average low was 19° - the coldest February for this region in recorded history. Today it's 26° f with rain, snow, and sleet, with more coming and a forecast low of 19° f - ie: an average day. My garage workshop doesn't have heat, so I've brought things I'd rather not have freezing into the house; glue, paint, batteries, etc. Hopefully it'll be warmer sooner than later and I can get back to work laying Constellation's deck - along with making a Civil War field desk, a folding table for the desk, a Rev War folding cot and stool, another sea chest, and three hanging shelves to go in the loo. I'm also extending a duct from an upstairs bath into the garage ceiling to blow in heat and AC so I can bear the summer and not be froze-out next winter. The real ship is back in the water hoping the ice will clear enough for her to be moved to where her rig will be set back up, and she'll go home. Feb 28, 2015 at Coast Guard Station Curtis Bay, Maryland.
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Found another picture of baggywrinkle...
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It's been too cold in my, as yet, unheated shop to get anything done - so I'll watch you work
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I pressed them from the front face so the dimples are pushed back when the plate is pressed to the hull. Mind you, this is thinner peel-n-stick copper at a much larger scale (1:36), and done with nothing near the precision of your work - I offer it only to show the result I got which compared well with actual copper plating I've installed and in photos.
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BUT the nails are flat headed and counter-sunk - not round headed rivets
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First off - they could be at other places besides the bow, such as very commonly at the quarters for the main brace block. They were set in place with guys (shrouds) to hold them there - permanently.
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I hate to divert folks from the forum, but what this forum is to craftsmanship and quality, RCGroups is to RC - and there's no reason you can't frequent both - I do.
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ALWAYS have a thumb-stall on the touch hole when anything is going in the barrel AND NEVER use water-proof fuse. Hands are a terrible thing to blow off.
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At a distance new baggywrinkle tends to look a bit like fuzzy caterpillars or pipe-cleaners. It gets droopy with age and looks more like hair than fuzz. When I was on her in 78-79, Gazela Primeiro's entire forestay was baggywrinkled along with many spots on the backstays. We replaced a portion of it on the forestay and made it up just as shown in the diagram already posted. It's a bit like wrapping garland tightly around a rope - it takes a lot of it to cover any length and we had about a 6 foot section to replace. I don't see it on models very much, even the model of Gazela in Philly doesn't have a speck of it. I also seldom ever see it in paintings, but then most paintings of ships aren't done by someone that knows anything about ships.
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So, I stuck some pins in the aft hatch cover, and that seems like it'll do the job... and the forward hatch is framed out. This is a bit more complicated than it appears because of the blocking I installed for the through-deck fairleads that the hatches cut into to some degree and though incorporated into the hatch framing, still leave odd-shapes places that I need to fill in. What's interesting is, in the case of Constellation at least, I really could have waited to have the deck on and planked before installing the fairleads - there's none of them I can't get at through all these hatches. While the deck has some camber in it at the hatches, the framework underneath is flat, as is the ledge around it's opening. I could have framed this all out before laying the subdeck and it would have been more structurally sound and looked a lot less like Frankenstien's monster. I started down that road a long time ago when I intended to use PVC pipe caps for access hatches (these pics from 2009): I didn't got with that because the opening was too small for me to get at anything through it. Macedonian will benefit from this experience at least
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I see what you mean, though I think it would require more accuracy than I built into it. I'm actually not all that concerned about it being water-tight. It'll be snug enough to keep out deck wash and there's nothing directly under either one that a few drips would hurt. I'm going to use some soft closed-cell foam on the ledge for the hatch to sit on. It should conform to any imperfections in my workmanship.
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Amen brother My projects always seem to be about how I get something done I should have done before I carried on with something else, case in point, installing the daggerboard box for my Pride's fin keel. Part of the reason I document my projects publicly is to broadcast such mistakes as warnings to others that might be about to make the same ones, and so I don't forget on the next project - sort of like marking a minefield.
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Framing continues. I think I'll close all the hatches up using a pair of pins at one end and a screw into a threaded insert at the other end. The maple framing of the hatch cover, 3/16" plywood, fiberglass, and 3/16" bass decking should make it stiff enough that a single screw will hold it against whatever seal I place in the opening. On these the pivot guns will serve as handles, the main hatch will have the boats on it, and the battery hatch will have the capstan.
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