hexnut

The forecastle complete

 

 

 

Build log part 83...
 
 
Update
 
Sprit and jib-boom sail, ready to capture the slightest breeze...
 
 
Nils
 
 

 
I put the braces on the sprit- and jib sail yards
 
 

 
the 8-hole saddle on the lower sprit boom, enables a little order to the many lines
 
 

 
looking like a ship now.....
 
 

 
only the foremast topgallant sail is still missing.....
 
 

 
 
 

 
 

Little update.....
 
Build log part 82
 
 
am still busy with the rigging, the foremast still needs the topgallant sail, and the two spritsail yards and sails are being prepared......
 
 
Nils
 
 

 
the two yards are not rigged yet. Here the sails are ready, the lower spritsail with the water-holes
 
 
 
 
here can be seen where the thimbles come to use, appropriate lines are belayed at the shroud cleats
 
 

 
at the fore-bits the lines for sheets, clues and jeers are not permanently belayed yet, as the sails still have to be moved during rigging (access-wise). The tackle outside of the shrouds belongs to the shifting-backstay
 
 

 
here mainmast rigged with all 3 sails, except for brace-lines and bowlines
 
 

 
 

Time for another update.  The deck planking proper has now been started and I must say it seems pretty easy after the hull planking - nice straight pieces of wood to work with for a change!
 
The photos show the present state of play!
 
John
 

 

 

I've planked the starboard side gun port strip and on both sides added the ebony chain wale and the ebony bow area planking.  There's two areas that are unplanked in the chain wale where the channels will fit.  Things look wet because of the first coat of wipe-on poly.
 
Footnote.. I'm more than a bit chuffed as the chain wales (port and starboard) are within 2 scale inches of each other.
 
I'll now go around to the other side, and sand the ebony bow planking.  It's there but really rough before the next update.
 

Thanks for all the kind comments and visits they mean a great deal and are very motivating.
 
Just a small update because I am off to dinner with Jude to celebrate our 20th wedding anniversary this evening.
 
The carb is started
 

 

 
There are a few more bits yet then it all gets soldered together the main assembly will wind into the manifold and the nut will lock it into the vertical position.
 
Michael

I bought a nice looking prop but its much to shiny. I like to paint the ship like its in use so it needs a little weathering. And so does the propellor. In the past I tried to do this with paint but that didnt work out well. I remembered a proces from scienceclasses called electrolyse with an katode and an anode. How that works you can find on the internet but the pictures below show how I (mis) use it.
 
Here's what whe start with. A nice and shiny propellor.

 
First an conductive fluid wich means you dump some salt in warm water and give it a goed stir.

 
Then the power supply. I use one with 9V DC and little amps

 
Then separate the minus and the plus and connect them with the prop and a piece of metal with zinc on it. Try in wich order. If you have it right the prop will produce lots of small bubbles later.

 
Then place them in the water. Make sure the two pieces of metal do not touch eachother. I use some clips to clamp them to the pot.

 
When you do it wrong the zinc piece will produce bubbles

 
And when you do it right the prop will produce lots of bubbles

 
Then leave it for some 15  minutes but try to inspect the prop during the process. It will go fast and if you are satisfied with the result stop on time. Its good to rub the prop with a rag so you can see the endresult.

 
Looks nice allready

 
And the final result. Iam very satisfied with it. I admit its a little bit ghettostyle but it works to me.

 

Small update this time from the paintshop. I painted the hull red with (I hope) the right red colour. Tomorrow I will mark the waterline and will paint the upper part of the hull.

full lifeboat

lifeboat staining and mounting maneuvers  

view of the bridge

Hello,
currently I am working with the production of the gun tackle.
Here are a few pictures of the components and a finished gun tackle.

 

 

Next I will show you the gun tackle how it will look on the model.

 

Hello Alexander,
 
thanks for your kind words.
 
The carronades are now complete.
Still missing four 18 pounder guns on the gun deck.
I made this a long time ago. But a few details had yet to complete.

 

The battery of the La Créole fills up slowly but steadily. Today the carronade no. 17 was set. Now is still missing 3 pieces and 4 pieces 18 pounder, then the battery is fully.
The following photo shows the famous image of Horace Vernet the Battle of San Juan de Ulua with the poop deck of La Créole as background. I just wanted to transfer the atmosphere of the image on the model.

 

I'm officially on vacation     off to a slow start though.......Tuesday was an errand day,  ran a few of those and surveyed the yards......the plow guy did a number on the back yard.  it's not my problem.....I should let the landlord handle it,  but he'd do a crappy job....that I am sure of !  I can wait on it....there is still a small mound of snow and Ice that needs to go away 
 
I did manage to do a small bit on Andrea,  but it was not enough to even mention.   yesterday proved to be the better day,  I did a lot more    the frame work that needs to go under the first part of the trawl rig was where I had left off.....Tuesday was mostly fitting it in place.  before I get to it though.......I recall a problem that was mentioned.  I believe it was Mobbsie,  that pointed out what looked like a small crack in the starboard side stanchion for the fore deck.  I took care of it my friend......I didn't forget about it.   thanks for pointing it out to me 
 

 
...now for that piece of framework........   after fitting it,  it was touched up with flat white.
 

 
it was then cemented in place.
 

 

 
seen in the picture.....is the starboard side stabilizer boom......pinned and cemented in place.   the main objective here,  is to figure how to rig them,  so the lines don't hinder anywhere.   this is tough,  because the telemetry seems a bit off....and with no real plans to work with,  the problem is compounded.   going into the collection of older decals I made,  I chose the ones that I will use for the control panel face.  for the levers,  I used some belaying pins,  which Billing's supplies in their kits.
 

 
dry fitting it in place.......the reel on the bow side will be deployment reel.  the one on the aft side will be for the anchor weight {counter weight,  would be a better name}.
 

 
the pulley {block} assembly for this will need to be high up,  but no higher than the top bar.  I will use a double and a single block for this assembly.   the single block will be located just below the contact point of the yoke,  where it rests when not in use.  an eye bolt will be located at the tip of the boom for a line to widen the weight distribution of the rigging.
 

 
sorry for the background being so busy,  here on the table.  you may have to look close.  the double block.......the dilemma.........where to position it.  I can't put it on any of the side frames.......it would be too far aft,  and it would want to pull it aftward.  there are the guide bars that I need to add later {those other brackets I made},  and that will pull them forward,  to align them with the yoke.   I decided to put the double block just under the top bar,  behind the yoke.
 

 
it imitates a peak halyard,  to sum it up in a nutshell.  I like the way it looks,  but the upper line going to the eye bolt,  is hindered by the top bar and yoke.   I will try something different with the port side,  and if it works better,  I can adjust the starboard side.  I won't need to change where the control panel is.......this is the most logical spot for it.
 

 

 
clearly,  the problem is here.   looking at it at this point,  I may have to relocate the double block to the forward side of this anchor point.   we shall see
 

 
 

I quit adding more polly, it looks rather presentable for the Fayetteville event in a few weeks.  Plan C is still being contemplated, just need to find the right dye.
Thanks to you who have given me the suggestions.  I have been busy with other things in the last few days, not only domestic chores but also doctor appointments.  Got some very good news about the prostate cancer issue, that seems to have disappeared altogether.  One more annual visit for next year and after that I'm cut loose.
Tomorrow is a pre-op for the bladder cancer and the end of April I'll get the cysto for an inside look.  Let's hope that it looks as good if not better then 2 months ago. 
 
In any case, I mounted the O19 onto the newly made and finished display board and took it outside for a picture.  I know, I should have added this to the profile part but so what, yuns can see how she looks on the board.
 

 
Cheers,

Hi everyone
 
Well tonight I had a go at making the wind vane and aerial that sits right up the very top of Rainbow's 150ft mast. They took me all night and I can't say that it was easy. I can't even say that the results were worth the effort because they're so tiny and so insignificant, that you'd literally need a maginifying glass too see the wind vane clearly. In fact, I can't even photograph them clearly.
 
Oh well, here goes anyway...I warned you! The photo is a bit blurry and, and, and let's just say, you may need to add a dose of imagination in order to see them clearly.
 
Oh, and just for the sake of it, I couldn'nt resist adding another photo of the mocked up sails...I just love the way the Genoa curves around the deck line of the hull when viewed from above looking down...
 
All the best!
 
Patrick

Life got in the way with more home renovations, the kids vehicles to fix, a brake job to do on my Wife's car, and overtime at work. Life is good as I got a couple of days in the Man Cave to work on the clipper. The first picture is completing the saw cuts to ease in carving out the hull.
 

 
In the second picture I am starting the shaping process on the bow and stern with my new Swedish carving knife.
 

 
The next few pictures show the progress of cutting things down and shaping accordingly to the sheer lines etc.
 

 
If you look closly you can see the hull is split into two section's at the waterline... as well, there are no stantions/gunnels' attached yet. That will come later in the building process.
 

 

 
The next two pictures shows work on the bow section. I am really appreciative of the German naval engineering with regards to the sheer and lines of the bow. Below the waterline I am reminded of the look of a fast Frigate bow shape and above the waterline the look is of a typical clipper with lines that will cut and displace water in a hurry. I used some grey primer on the bow to show where the low spots are and it also aids in sanding. I'll do the same when I reach the stern area.
 

 

 
So there you have it a bit of progress and the stern will be a process in itself as the sheer has to incorporate the rudder section and the waist in this area tapers sharply. Measure three times, cut once, sand till the cows come home!
 
Jeff
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Best laid plans and intentions do change. Life got in the way of this modeller until today. I got back into the saddle and rode no where.      I am sure some of you can relate. Today I finally got to sit down in the Man Cave and slowly push forward. I finished the hull templates, traced the port side view of the hull with my new illuminator I built -  (illuminator article will be in the next journal of S.I.B.A.A.) glued port side to the hull blank, and then started to saw from the top down to the bottom of the topside deck. I made lots of lines on the top view deck plan to saw into; to make carving the deck sheer easy.
 

 
Above is the Port Side sheer plan traced with the illuminator!
 

 

 
Above you can see where I traced a bunch of lines so I can saw down to the deck sheer.
 

 
Next step is to saw down to the mark on the sheer and slice off the slivers. I am itching to get going on this project and I think I am all caught up on the 'Honey Do jobs' around the house.
 
Jeff
 
 

Here is an update these rib bits are very confusing, dosnt help ther are no english instructions for this bit.

 

 

 

 

Hi all here is a bit of an update. I have a big problem with this kit and dont know how much further I can go with it. there is supposed to be 2 sprues number 17 and 2 number 18 but there is only 1 of each, I have emailed Heller and asked for the missing sprues to be sent but have no idea what their customer service is like I'm hopeing they will send them as the kit is useless without them and I will have to bin it otherwise. so will do what I can and hope they will send the parts sooner rather than later.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

This morning I received a great photo from Roger so then spent most of the rest of the morning learning how to make even tighter loops in the tubing.
 

 
After a while I got a couple of parts which looked like a good match, I also used a slightly larger diameter tube that was brass so I also needed another pair of flanges (I'm getting faster at making them at least).
 

 
Soldered them up the same way as the first two times.
 

 
Drilled a larger hole in the new loop
 

 
I wanted to ensure that it was all lined up so soldered the bottom piece while it was on the engine.
 
.
 

 
After lunch I did some more tight loops and get a better bend on the lower part so un-soldered the bottom piece and added the new one with a 5 x 64 threaded coupling
 
Here is the new tap I made it the same way as the other taps.  
 

 
and the final configuration. now I can make the carb
 

 

 
Michael

ASSEMBLING TERROR’S STERN
(Or, finally some sawdust!!!)
 
I haven't posted an update regarding my model in several months. While I've kept busy with side projects, the real reason for my delay is that I had reached an impasse with Terror’s stern.
 
As I've discussed in previous posts, the sterns of Franklin’s ships were modified in 1845 to accommodate a new auxiliary screw propulsion system – to be used as a time saving device “providing the wind should prove contrary or a dead calm”. There are two sources of data on these modifications: Oliver Lang’s original design plan, and its counterpart, a contemporary model of the design. I had purchased full resolution copies of the plan many months ago, but unfortunately Lang did not include a cross section in his draught. That information could only be gleaned from the contemporary model held at the National Maritime Museum’s storage facility in Chatham.   
 

The contemporary model of Oliver Lang's 1845 design. 
National Maritime Museum, Greenwich, London (SLR2253 [L2251-001]). 
Used under Creative Commons Attribution-Non-Commercial-ShareAlike (CC BY-NC-SA) license
 
 
Fortunately, I recently had an opportunity to visit the Chatham model ship facility. Assisted by the expert curators, I was able to study the stern model in detail. It is quite unique, being constructed using a series of carved blocks arranged to conform to the position of major structural and engineering elements of Lang’s design.  The information I gathered has allowed me to complete my construction of the stern;  below, I’ll reveal the new information I've learned from the contemporary model, while documenting my final assembly of Terror’s stern:
 
1) The propeller well used to raise and lower the screw was rectangular, almost square-sided, with the sternpost and rudderpost forming the fore and aft sides of the well, respectively. To accomplish this, thick timbers were bolted to the sides of the rudderpost and sternpost. The rudderpost bolsters were much more complex than I originally assumed and were each constructed of at least two pieces, with the lower portions tapering gently to the width of the rudderpost, following the lines of the body plan (see here for my original conceptualization of the design).
 

The stern pieces prior to assembly. The bolster on the left is the old design I intended to use,
which was incorrect.
 

The overkill method I used to glue the bolsters to the stern and rudderposts.
Thankfully this was just a dry-run (note the older bolster design). 
 

The  new bolster timbers glued on the rudderpost. Note the groove for the "Lihou" rudder on the
rudderpost. I may need to sand the bolsters somewhat to match the run of the planking as they
may be slightly oversized - but no by much. 
 

Another angle showing the bolster timbers on the sternpost.
The NMM model shows that the bolsters on the rudderpost are
longer than those on the sternpost. 
 
2) The rudderpost and sternpost were each tenoned into the keel extension, as was typical, but each was secured with a single bolt, which was not indicated on Lang’s plan.  
 

Marking the precise position of the tenon bolts.
 

The bolts were simulated with 20 gauge copper wire, precisely the
same as that used on the keel scarphs. 
 
3) The propeller well was framed on the port and starboard sides in three distinct sections. The upper section included stout rectangular framing fayed to the deck beams, which formed a ledge for a scuttle on the upper deck. Below this, the well was probably enclosed by watertight planking down to the height of the stern timbers. Because of the construction of the contemporary NMM model, such planking was not shown, but it is unlikely that solid timber pieces would have been used, as these aren’t shown in contemporary models.
 

The heavy framing used to form the top of the propeller well.
The upper part of these timbers formed a lip for a scuttle to the well. 
 

Planking on the upper section of the well. I've estimated a width of 12 inches.
The actual width is unknown. Note that this section of the model will be covered
so I haven't simulated bolts or spikes here. 
 

A view of the topside of the well. The upper pieces of the sternpost
and rudderpost bolsters will be trimmed at a later stage of the build,
but are useful for alignment at this stage. 
 
4) A new section, clearly visible in the well of the model, started at the position of the stern timbers. This suggests the stern timbers were bolted to the sides of the rudderpost and sternposts to provide major structural support to the new rudderpost and well. This makes good sense, and Lang’s 1845 stern plan clearly shows the stern timbers as a major element of the design. In fact, these new timbers are substantially more robust than Terror’s original stern timbers, suggesting they were an integral part of the strength of the new structure. Again, this type of structure is supported by contemporary models.
 

The bottom portion of the framing planks were trimmed to match the run
of the stern timbers. Note the rabbet on the rudderpost on the right. 
 
5) The lower section of the propeller well was composed of the second layer of hull planking where it ran aft, horizontally.  Eventually, the run of the higher planks would have veered away from the straight-sided wall of the well. At this point, straight horizontal planking would have been used to frame the sides of the well. The position where this occurs is marked by a block seam on the contemporary NMM model.
 
Unfortunately, Lang’s contemporary  model does not include any of the ironwork used to strengthen the stern, nor does it include the propeller rail/track mechanism. I've based these portions of the model on Lang’s plans and extensive research on other contemporary models and designs. This research is outlined in several blog posts (and here, here, and here).
 

Oliver Lag's stern design. Note the extensive ironwork and the propeller systems.
National Maritime Museum, Greenwich, London (ZAZ5683 [J1529]).
Used under Creative Commons Attribution-Non-Commercial-ShareAlike (CC BY-NC-SA) license.
 

The iron staple knee glued in place. The knee provided essential support for the rudderpost. 
 

Mini-Crozier inspects the staple knee in dry dock. 
 

Lang used iron strapping to further reinforce the stern structure. Here they are made from
chemically blackened copper. 
 

Each strap was glued in place and then the bolt holes were drilled out by hand. 
 

Bolts glued in place. These were simulated using blackened brass. 
 

Another view of the completed iron work.
 

Mini-Crozier frets over the modifications. 
 

The staple knee was protected by a fitted  chock bolted to the keel section.
I carved this using a simple chisel blade. 
 

The finished chock compared to the plans. 
 

Image showing how the chock fits over the knee. Unfortunately it had to
be glued in place to permit the propeller rails/tracks to be installed.
At least I know the knee is there. 
 

The chock glued in place.
 

The propeller was raised and lowered using rails or "tracks". These have been
modified slightly from my original versions based on new data. Copper bolts
were simulated using wire. 
 

The rails glued in final position. Note  the  rabbet on the rudderpost 
for the second layer of hull planking. The rabbet will be modified  to 
accommodate the precise run of planking when it is installed. 
 

View of the rails installed on the sternpost.
 

View of the rails installed on the rudderpost.
 

Another view. 
 

Wooden bolt plugs added to the chock. The bolts were "counterbored and plugged".
 

The staple knee was bolted to the rudderpost; these bolts were also counterbored
and plugged. I'm not entirely happy with the contrast here and may redo them at a later date.
 

The completed stern assembly.
 

Lowering the screw propeller in place (it raise and lowers - and the propeller spins). 
 

The propeller in position. Unfortunately the angle of the photo makes it
look slightly crooked, but it is not - is spins freely, with very small
tolerances as shown on Lang's original plans. 
 

A view from the stern.
 

Another angle showing how the propeller was seated.  
 

Looking down the well from the position of the upper deck .
 

Mini-Crozier contemplates how the stern will fare in the ice.
 
How successful was Lang’s stern at protecting the ship from the pack ice? Parks Canada divers are assessing that currently, and with luck they’ll find the answers soon. We know from historical sources that the Admiralty was concerned about the strength of the design, and that while Lang believed the “sternposts” (sternposts and rudderposts) were as strong as those on other ships, he would not certify that the strength of the filling chocks was sufficient to protect the Erebus and Terror [4].
 
No matter how vulnerable it made the ship, we can suspect that Lang’s radical redesign also altered the sailing qualities of Terror. Contemporary sailing reports indicate that Vesuvius class bomb vessels were rather lumbering and could not carry sail well, and Ross reported that Terror was constantly falling behind Erebus during his Antarctic voyage, delaying and endangering the expedition.
 
Recently, Regina Koellner, assisted by William Battersby, transcribed a letter from Francis Crozier to his friend John Henderson, written shortly after the ships arrived at Whalefish Islands in Greenland. In the letter, Crozier provides a brief report of Terror’s sailing qualities: "Our steering is decidedly improved by the alterations on the counter we now sail much more evenly with Erebus which is advantageous to us in many ways." I suspect that the effective lengthening of the keel to accommodate the propeller allowed Terror to sail closer to the wind, finally permitting her to keep up with the more nimble Erebus. It seems the final conversion of Terror to screw propulsion made her a more capable vessel under sail, an irony certainly not lost on Crozier.
 
 
 
 

This is probably my last update of my Bluenose log.
I took all the pics for the gallery and here I present some of them. The gallery will be open soon.

I would like to thank you all for replys, comment, likes or just stopping by at my log. THANKS   .

Enjoy the pics.