cardensb

I recently opened up my Niagara kit, bought back in 2011, and began inventorying it, referencing the included instructions and plans. I immediate noticed I had an odd amount of cannonades and a missing ship bell; Modelshipways sent me a new package of carronades (they are a slightly different size than the originals) and a bell using their replacing missing parts app on their website. I recently realized if I am going to fully rig all the guns and spares, I don't have enough eye bolts or split rings. The instructions demonstrated how to make both with wire but the kit includes no extremely fine wire. I am going to write MS's customer service since their search engine does not resolve the part numbers and guessing that small size is a gamble. Part of my normal preparations are to come to this forum and skim recent build logs. There are several excellent logs here with great photography, excellent descriptions, everything you could ask for. I am using the following ones as my references: - Ablerson's build started in 2022 - 6ohiocav's build began in 2016 - mikiek's build began in 2015 My intent is to document significant challenges I had to work through along with other builders' challenges so the next new builder as one more place to reference when confused. I will periodically update here after I collect a few challenges and feel it is time to update. This post includes assembling the bulkheads, framing, installing laser cut pieces and beginning to plank. This kit is intended to be painted, the wood provided does not provide a dramatic look in the raw or even stained. ADVANTAGE: This allows the builder to use wood fillers like putty and scrap wood to fix mistakes easily as paint will cover it up. This makes a complex ship model, a nice one for someone that is new to ship building, a way to get stuff built quickly without worrying about the appearance until its time to paint. If you are a builder that likes the look of natural woods, you may find yourself replacing provided strip wood with other materials though. I normally hate to paint now instead using exotics like bloodwood and ebony, but the kit was purchased and I won't let it sit in storage forever (two more sitting in boxes). FRAMING. 1. Beard line. It was much easier to shape the beveled edge of the keel assembly before gluing in the bulkheads or permanently attaching the keel. The instructions show to carve and chisel wood to the breading line with the keel attached, I have yet to not accidentally damage a keel in this manner so I marked all lines before the keel was glued and used a simple sanding jig to have a more consistent angle and depth of wood removal. 2. Additional blocks between bulwarks. All logs I have skimmed included adding some size of additional support between bulwarks using additional softwoods. At a minimum, I think building up 2-3 bow sections is important to allow planking material plenty of surface area to adhere too. I placed narrow blocks between each bulkhead to where they would provide more glue surface area at the rounded edge while ensuring the center keel did not bend to the port or starboard accidentally (I had an early build end up with a twist due to I suspect, time to complete stabilization, humidity, and working one side completely then the other instead balancing support to each side. I think this blocks also help in the process of fairing the hull smooth by giving more surface area for your files or sanding methods. I skipped completing this fairing step for a while and intend to final shape it this weekend now that the "ceilings" are planked. 2b. Coaming support. I have not added coaming supports yet, if I could go back, I would do this before planking the inner bulwarks and then fair all the deck supports only once. 2c. Stern's shaped blocks. At the stern, I shaped a block for each side to fill the space above the deck line to the rail allowing an even shape for planking too along that distance. The kit calls for four total blocks below the deck line too. Now that I go back to the manual, a "fashion piece" is shown in Fig 2-6 that I have unconsciously ignored on the plans and manual. I hope that it does not mean my stern railing piece is still not wide enough. 3. Stern L-shaped framing pieces. These four pieces look the same but they have different angles and despite me labeling them as inner left, outer, left, etc... I somehow still had to cut them away because I installed the inners where the outers should be. Holding all of these while gluing to remain level is tricky. I used a small hand clamp on the top of each, binding them to a scrap of strip wood, forcing them to remain even. Abelson's log has excellent photos of what it should look like when done right the first time. 4. Mounting options. Before I plank the lower hull, I have added some support blocks, above the beard line, to allow screws to hold the brass pedestals in place since I don't thing the inner keel piece is wide enough to fully support wood screws. The kit does not provide any basing options (this is called out in the documentation though). I ordered two 1/4 inch wide opening pedestals from model shipways. Other builders have glued in small metal nuts for a screw through the keel. Just do something before you plank up access. PLANKSHEER and RAILING. 5. Laser cut pieces do not fit perfectly. As others pointed out, the laser cut parts due not quite fill the space completely (planksheer has gaps towards the bow) or the rialing is not wide enough to provide a small lip on each edges to include the stern piece. The stern piece is actually probably slightly undersized in length and width. Some builders option to use the provided part as a template to start from and replace the wood. Fundamental, I do not intend to buy a kit and replace all the provided wood and laser cut parts. I would have just bought plans and hardware from the multiple dealers out there. I opted to fill the gaps with strip wood and wood filler putty. Paint will be my ally. For the railing, after completing the above the whale planking and inner bulwarks, I added a 1/32 x 1/32 strip to each side of the railing. The kit includes 20 strips plus I had leftovers from other builds. GUN and SWEEP PORTS. 6. Framing the openings. Make a final shape desired block for each to place on the model and frame around. I did not, my gun ports are uneven and I am finding myself adding vertical strip wood to some and was filing away excess framing material on others. I knew better but did not take the time because I hate gluing the block in place if I use excess glue. Ideally, you have some scrap metal square stock that can be sized to the dimension for each opening. The stern gun ports are not square on the plans once planked but were framed the same unless you realized they are rhombus shaped early on. I used scrap materials from the laser cut sheets to build the side walls up allowing to be shaped to the size on the plans stern planking section. 6b. Painting too early. Painting above the wales and inner bulwarks or "ceilings" as the this kit calls them... Most builder's logs agree that painting early ends up being a waste of time because paint gets damaged during later steps. I do intend to paint before I install the deck or eye bolts. Your gut will be to paint the strips so you have a clean edge between colors, your gut is failing you this time. 6c. Testing gun ports fit. Before you install the railing, you should consider how you plan to do the decking so your gunports are tall for the carronades to fit. At least one builder added an additional 1/16th of strip wood on top of the framing and bulwarks to account for laying their deck out on thin plywood, card stock or replace the provided deck strips with something thicker. I plan to build my deck on manila folder material. I did assemble one gun and make sure it fits on a mock up with the 1/16th inch provided deck wood. PLANKING. 7. Missing second dimensions. Both the manual and sheet plans lack information on which strip wood should be used where in the planking process. Both only reference one dimension such as 3/64" thick plank. Abelson based his build on the provided materials and planned to use as this copied from his #6 log entry August 22, 2022: I am following his recommendations and so far above the wales and inside all line up pretty well. I did have to use one strip of slightly taller plank as I progressed towards the bow, I hope that is not a problem later as I don't know why my bow as a slight gain of about 1/16th inch beyond where the plans specify an additional strake in front of the forward gun port. I did not do any excessive shaping to the tops of the bulwarks, fearing I would break them off. I did install the rail before planking and it has a slight wave to it that was corrected with some woodworking skills. Again, I have not bothered to paint any of the strakes yet and will tape them off prior to deck installation for painting by hand, airbrush, or both. I am also aware that to rig the ship per the plans, the kit lacks enough blocks, variety of cordages, etc... 6ohiocav's log has an extensive shopping list within it. When I go back through his log, I will note here where it can be found. That's where I am after opening the kit a few months ago and only touching it occasionally because I have a lot of hobbies, a job and a family. I will add to the log when I gather more hard lessons learned to share. I appreciate the most recent three logs and will continue to use them as a reference.

Impressive build log. I recently began the Niagara MS kit myself. I am using your shopping list for the shortage of blocks, etc... It almost makes me want to not buy another complete kit again with the amount of stuff just not used or not enough of in the first place but I think I have two more unopened boxes of kits in storage. I share your thoughts on trying to avoid painting when possible and have embraced the exotic woods. I highly recommend bloodwood for inner bulwarks, coamings, etc... It is hard to bend at the bow if the bow has a harsh curve but thinning the planks and heating them seem to work. The Lumberyard in Ohio is my go to place for pre-milled stock. I don't know what type of saw they use but they do a better job than I can on my table saws and bandsaw. I also love ebony for a lot of the pieces like the rails, wales, and thr such. It does not bend well either. Your harvested cherry is beautiful, I bet it hurt to paint some of it. I have a block of cherry I harvested about 20 years ago for my dream scratch build. I also like how you tried to make jigs for repeat work and used power tools. I enjoy the individual filing and shaping sometimes by hand but other times, I really do wish i had a shorter tol rest for my lathe to turn spars, masts, etc... I have your build book marked and am learning from your work as I go.

6ohiocav's build log has a list. I think his log is the what I am reading in the NRG mag too. Good stuff. "Thanks for stopping in. It is good to know there is another Niagara builder out there. Here is a rough inventory on what I have purchased from Syren so far. Chuck sells his products in small plastic packs. What I am listing below refers to individual packs. RIGGING TAN .008 - 5 packs .012 - 6 .018 - 2 .035 - 1 BLACK .008 - 2 .012 - 2 .018 - 3 .025 - 2 .035 - 2 BLOCKS 3/32 SINGLE - 5 3/32 DOUBLE - 4 1/8 SINGLE - 4 1/8 DOUBLE - 3 5/32 SINGLE - 1 5/32 DOUBLE - 1 7mm CLEATS - 2 7mm CLOSED HEARTS - 1 3mm rigging hooks - 2 That is not a complete inventory, as I have a number of partially used packs, and am not finished rigging. That will however get you to where I am. When I am totally finished, if that day ever comes, I will be able to provide a more detailed inventory."

okay, well I did not see a comprehensive list in the first dozen...

I found about a dozen build logs on the site for this kit and many mention purchasing additional cordage, eye bolts, blocks, etc... Does anyone have a comprehensive shopping list of what they ended up purchasing to be satisfied? Mind sharing it? I have found myself digging into leftover strip wood from other models to adjust some of the laser cut pieces already and figured I need to order additional eye bolts and blocks soon but hate to pay for shipping twice if I can get an order to Syren, Bluejacket, MS, etc... once.

I recently started this kit and wished I had come here looking for build logs. Your log puts the instructions to shame. I found I was not the only one looking at strip wood provided, the instructions, and the plans and wondering what the inner bulwarks were planked with. I like your order of work, on my prior models, I seem to install eye bolts once seized to each cannon/carronade and drilling those holes with the deck in place is tough. I was torn on painting in stages like you did or just do it all once all the inner and outer planking is done. I have book marked your page and now it's my default instruction book.

I just scrolled through your log, I have the MS kit sitting in my pile of kits bought when they had a great sale about 10 years ago. I think this will be my next build based on your log. Echoing many others, love the amount of photos that are quality and clear. Also love the drawing on the plans for clarity. I really appreciate you identifying all the small eyelets and chock points needing mounted to the hull before starting to rig and find it difficult to get a pin vise in later. Any major lessons learned to pass along that did not get documented but as you reflect back to the early steps of the build? Some specific questions: 1. Frames and filler blocks: Any regrets for not using filler blocks entirely between all of the framing? (I had a keel take a bend during a break in planking years ago) 2. Additional purchases: Have you compiled a list of "must buy" additional parts or do I need to scroll back through? I would rather shop all at once if possible. I see you id'ed shortages of many smaller items that add up in shipping charges. 3a. Gun tackle: Do you like how the brass hooks turned out in the armament tackle assemblies for the time it was worth or should I stick with bending wire? 3b. Or should I skip the hooks completely and just attach the lines to the rings with a little glue like many of MS kit's have us do? (I like the hooks ideally but once done, not sure if it looks to busy or out of scale?) Or should I skip the gun tackle completely to reduce "deck clutter" 4. Copper plating: your photos of the real ship appears to have copper plating below the waterline, any recommendations to do it or not do it? I have done it on some and not others so it's not the repetition that makes me think otherwise. 5. What's next for you? You are into the rigging now, have you thought what is your next build? I like the Niagara for the different cannonades than I have done before but I really enjoy building frames so my follow-on will like be a one where each frame is cut from about four pieces of cherry locally harvested. I recently purchases the Washington Galley plans. I find myself thinking ahead as I finish up a Hannah build based on plans and a wood only kit from The Lumberyard that has been a work in progress for about 7 years. I wonder if I need to try a completely different style of ship to expand my skills like a viking longboat or an Egyptian ship from a two-thousand years ago.

In my box of leftover parts, I have a set of chainplate assemblies that a 3/16" dead eye from Model Expo fits into but the plate is a hard wire material. I am trying to find a way to insert the dead eye without damaging one side when squeezing it into the plate. Seeking suggestions. I have 16 of these assemblies that consist of a small "plate" with a ring at the bottom; a single section of wire chain link that is unsoldered to allow connecting the bottom plate to the ring on the plate and finally a soft metal plate with three holes that attach to the hull and to the chain link. They might be from the MS model 1:64 Prince de Neufchatel. My model looks like I may have figured it out once, years ago. Anyways, I am trying to press the wooded deadeye into the hard metal wire ring using a vise now and am damaging about every 3rd deadeye.

My list is not as thorough but here is how I have tackled it for the few I have fully rigged. 1. Install all eyebolts into the hull before installing guns or anything that may get in the way. Sometimes I attach a block and run a started line through it to tie it out of the way. Te starting threads allow me to just glue the actual line to the end and carefully pull it through later, only need a few inches (less is better to keep from getting confused) 2. As a general rule, I install all rigging from the center of the ship towards the edges and start at the front and work my way back. this means I am not trying to reach through standing rigging later to try and attach something or I have through through how I am going to reach a center line located block later (starter thread used) 3. Generally work bottom up. so I rig all the lower mast assemblies before moving up a layer. 4. On the bow spirit, I generally rig the entire assembly of wood sections together before installing it and make sure all blocks are in place for running rigging. 5. I have not actually used any sort of pre-rigging jig assemble holding thing yet so when I do my stays for example, I rig a left and then a right side while on the ship. I use a few sections of bent wire fitted to both dead eyes so my cord length is consistent. I do serve the cords prior to installing at the top of each mast assembly using a 3rd hand tool to hold the loop in one end while I whip/serve the middle where needed. Yes, so my ratlines are done on the ship. I just took an index card and drew a few lines spaced at the distance between "rungs" and clipped it below my work. I tied a few at a time and took a break. I tired to keep a little slack in them but was not always consistent. A jig will probably make it more consistent but I hate seeing all that thread wasted when tying off to a square frame. 6. I pre-rig all blocks to spars and if a block may be in a tough spot, I run a starter thread through it too. 7. All of my standing rigging is tied off at a pin or wherever it should then cut short. Later I coil a bunch of cord around a pair of finishing nails as a holder and leave a long enough tail to neatly wrap around the pin like it should appear. Hope that helps. I have an old build log on here where I posted lots of photos as I rigged the Prince de Neufchatel.

I hate having a ship model with no one on board so I am looking at wargaming miniature figures. Does anyone have any experience with them? I am looking at Old Glory brand 25mm figures trying to determine if they fit a 1:48 or 1:64 scale ship. I "war game" in 28mm scale and the brand (Warlord Games plastics), I use are too tall for either scale. Perry's Miniatures 28mm in plastic also seem a little too tall and do not have many poses that would work beyond altering an infantry based box set. (I have an American Infantry regiment set). Old Glory brand has sets with titles like "men climbing rigging", "pirate deck crew gunners", "AWI (American War of Independence) Naval Crew" (spelled Navel though) and "Swivel guns with crew". I don't have much experience with metal based figures. Before I spend $20 to $40 plus shipping, I was hoping someone else had tried these already and could provide feedback.

Appreciate the tip, I found the book on Amazon and ordered it. Pretty good progress over the weekend. I finished the inner bulwarks (bloodwood is a pain to work with, I had forgot how fragile it is even after a good steaming). I installed apple wood rail caps (opportunity to remember how to use and maintain by scroll saw). Cleaned up the gun ports so they are all the same size. cleaned up the exposed framing below the few rows of planking I had installed years ago. Began planking the quarterdeck above the cap line. Started shopping for pre-cut grating for the 5 hatches and 10 swivel guns. Now if I can just find where my wife hid my digital calipers so i can get some accurate measurements.

Our honeymoon was 11 years ago...

I don't know if my photos will remain available after this month, they were uploaded to photobucket and now the bucket wants to charge a fee for use. If you are looking for a photo described, message me and I will see where it is in a cloud or hard drive.

Mike - amazing build. I just picked back up where I stopped in 2016 on the Harold Hahn version and am referencing your log for some details I cannot figure out. I know build logs can be tedious so thanks for the extra effort.