Senior ole salt
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Senior ole salt got a reaction from GrandpaPhil in New Bedford Whaleboat by Senior ole salt - FINISHED - Model Shipways
I've making slow progress but the finish is near. I obtained the weathered mounting board ( cherry) a imitation sperm whales tooth.
The images shown below are missing the various line tubs, buckets and piggins that go with this model. The tubs have their lines faked down but I still have to "weather" the hoops. Also to soot up the sail some to kind of get some of the grimy whale blubber being processed aboard the whale ship.
S.os
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Senior ole salt got a reaction from GrandpaPhil in 27' Gaff-Rigged Cutter by Senior ole salt - RESTORATION - wooden sails
Took the model out side to get a little sunshine. There is a lot more to do on the model but this is what I got done so far. Since the model is skipper less, it looks like the cutter got too close to the rocks. Perhaps when it tacks things might look better.
Wax paper is attached to the model so she won't get stuck to forever sail like the Flying dutchman looking for Senta.
I still have to attach three more sails to do, all the supporting rigging plus some crew aboard. Much more work needs to be done on the sea which so far is just modeling plaster.
S.os
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Senior ole salt got a reaction from GrandpaPhil in New Bedford Whaleboat by Senior ole salt - FINISHED - Model Shipways
Bob, I do intend to go to the New England model boat show in April. I will bring the whaleboat model if I can only get the cat to catch the rat
S.os
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Senior ole salt got a reaction from egkb in New Bedford Whaleboat by Senior ole salt - FINISHED - Model Shipways
Bob, I do intend to go to the New England model boat show in April. I will bring the whaleboat model if I can only get the cat to catch the rat
S.os
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Senior ole salt got a reaction from Jack12477 in New Bedford Whaleboat by Senior ole salt - FINISHED - Model Shipways
I've making slow progress but the finish is near. I obtained the weathered mounting board ( cherry) a imitation sperm whales tooth.
The images shown below are missing the various line tubs, buckets and piggins that go with this model. The tubs have their lines faked down but I still have to "weather" the hoops. Also to soot up the sail some to kind of get some of the grimy whale blubber being processed aboard the whale ship.
S.os
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Senior ole salt got a reaction from Aussie048 in New Bedford Whaleboat by Senior ole salt - FINISHED - Model Shipways
Thanks for the encouraging words and tips.
Next to attend to some of the cordage involved with this model, like the harpoon lines, painter and various bucket handles. Maybe even an eye splice for the painter. I'm stretching the harpoon line just like they did in the old days.
Notice the fastening stains in the hull.
I deepened the stain in the ceiling. I thinks it looks better.
I might do the same for the thwarts but can't figure if the stain would be less where the rowers sat of lighter. Any thoughts ?
S.os
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Senior ole salt got a reaction from Aussie048 in New Bedford Whaleboat by Senior ole salt - FINISHED - Model Shipways
Been making some of the fittings. The kit supplies photo etched harpoons & lances. Also copper wire to solder them to.
Does anyone here know any household liquids to blacken em with ?
The oars are simpler to make. I used poplar from H. Depot.
Now the compass was furnished with the kit but not the C. rose. I hope my home made rose doesn't get the boat steerer lost.
Still a way to go.
S.os
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Senior ole salt got a reaction from Aussie048 in New Bedford Whaleboat by Senior ole salt - FINISHED - Model Shipways
I got all the thwarts installed. I also took the liberty to depart from the plans furnished in the kit.
With the C.W. Morgan undergoing major repairs there are many independent boat builders furnishing new whale boats for the bark. Like many boats the whale boat isn't a "cookie cutter" craft.
With this in mind and using one of the whale boat sites ( Beetle)a building on the internet I decided to use a different version of the steering oar brace. It looked more substantial then the one shown on the Erik Ronnberg pattern. One problem I had was the size to make it. After making two of different sizes I settled on the one shown in the images.
Also in the kit is no provision for a mast and spar rest after the sail gear is lowered. This U shaped chock is located on the stern just to the stb. side of the loggerhead.
Most of the boat itself is finished. Now all I have to do is construct , improvise and install all the various whale hunting craft. A kit in it self.
S.os
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Senior ole salt got a reaction from Aussie048 in New Bedford Whaleboat by Senior ole salt - FINISHED - Model Shipways
This weekend, I hit the model with some paint. I was very hesitant as I wasn't sure just what scheme course to take. The thwarts are just temporary as before . I still have to make the thwart knees and rudder hardware as well as the brackets that hold on the steering oar and numerous other details just to the hull alone not mention all the gear carried aboard these unique craft. I intend to weather the model some and an attempt is made with some rust stains on the fwd.Stb. bow.
Any weathering tips would be appreciated.
Thanks
S.os
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Senior ole salt got a reaction from ggrieco in Muscongus Bay Lobster Smack by hexnut - Midwest Products - 1:24 - 1st wooden ship build
That's a rough sketch? It looks like a work of art to me. You're doing fine in my opinion. Keep up the good work.
I'd like to try that kids someday.
S.os
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Senior ole salt reacted to hexnut in Muscongus Bay Lobster Smack by hexnut - Midwest Products - 1:24 - 1st wooden ship build
Thanks Keith, no, I don't think it ever stops... The canoe looks brilliant! (even before Al got in the act... )
Thanks, Dee Dee, I am very glad that you mentioned the fish wells, as those have been puzzling me. The ergonomics of putting in and removing fiesty lobsters from the kit hatch locations seems a bit sketchy, as they are very narrow and far forward of the workspace. They also seem like they would impede headroom for the bunk in the cuddy. I have heard the wells referred to as "pyramid-shaped", and the single well in Chapelle's Friendship sloop drawing seems to bear that out. It seems that Midwest may have taken that hatch real estate and simply bisected it with the centerboard trunk...
I have attached a rough sketch calling out some of my detail questions, I am very much looking forward to your build pictures!
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Senior ole salt reacted to michael mott in Bristol Pilot Cutter by michael mott - 1/8 scale - POF
Sailor I checked out the net , what a great bunch of images for shackles.
Used to sail, Thanks.
Nils thanks, I need quite a few it seems.
Today I did some work on the cockpit cap, I soaked some spruce for an hour or so while I made a former to bend the wood.
I will be using 5 strips to create the rough form once they are prepared I will glue them together.
I used a sheet of 6 mm aircraft ply to make the basic shape and bolted it to a sheet of 6mm plex
The sharp corners were not easy and I think that I will need to bend up a few more strips I did these first ones cold but I will use some hot pieces for the next strips I clamped them using some drop in pegs and wedges.
Michael
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Senior ole salt got a reaction from augie in New Bedford Whaleboat by Senior ole salt - FINISHED - Model Shipways
I've making slow progress but the finish is near. I obtained the weathered mounting board ( cherry) a imitation sperm whales tooth.
The images shown below are missing the various line tubs, buckets and piggins that go with this model. The tubs have their lines faked down but I still have to "weather" the hoops. Also to soot up the sail some to kind of get some of the grimy whale blubber being processed aboard the whale ship.
S.os
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Senior ole salt got a reaction from Salty Sea Dog in New Bedford Whaleboat by Senior ole salt - FINISHED - Model Shipways
I've making slow progress but the finish is near. I obtained the weathered mounting board ( cherry) a imitation sperm whales tooth.
The images shown below are missing the various line tubs, buckets and piggins that go with this model. The tubs have their lines faked down but I still have to "weather" the hoops. Also to soot up the sail some to kind of get some of the grimy whale blubber being processed aboard the whale ship.
S.os
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Senior ole salt reacted to NenadM in The Kit-Basher's Guide To The Galaxy
Since long time ago, everything electrical or mechanic which must go to trash, first cross through my hands, to cannibalize them, put off screws and nuts first. Many times in life this collection of different screws and nuts I keep, save my time and resolved problem. Wires of different kind also.
Ship modelling opened my eyes for another potential useful pieces/things/stuff/issues of all kind in surrounding
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Senior ole salt reacted to flying_dutchman2 in The Kit-Basher's Guide To The Galaxy
You have a small collection and I have way too many of them. Keep parts in them as well as computer parts. Because they close nicely with the little lock, nothing falls out.
I make fine rings out of the old fashion ball point pens I still see lying around. The springs are nice and round and easy to cut.
The admiral got on my case the other day when I took apart an old vacuum cleaner which she was throwing in the trash. I started separating all the parts I could use and trash. Then I found a little motor with copper wire on it and started unraveling that. She told me if I need that so bad go buy it, and it would be new and I did not have to clean it.
So I did that, but kept a few parts I can mold into something else.
Marc
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Senior ole salt reacted to mtaylor in The Kit-Basher's Guide To The Galaxy
Those small "gourmet" foods for dogs and cats... clean and keep the trays. They are excellent for holding parts, sub-assemblies, and even using them for blackening solution. I also use them for soaking parts that need to be disassembled in alcohol (but NOT acetone!!!).
I also have a small collection of plastic "pill cups", the kind used in hospitals (some pharmacies/chemists sell them). Used also for blackening and/or keeping bits and pieces in.
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Senior ole salt reacted to md1400cs in The Kit-Basher's Guide To The Galaxy
A stupid person's (me) guide for making pulleys, Capt. Steve was nice enough to ask me to share (:-)
My first attempt at using a Proxxon lathe to make pulleys in the early stages looked ok. Then came the part that I had to cut and trim the grooved dowel piece in order to slip the new pulleys into the new blocks I just built; Hmmm no good - they looked weak.
I then noticed that I had a loose cannon wheel lying about that was the same width as my dowel. Eureka, as a solution I then used my Proxxon rotary tool to spin the carriage wheels in order to cut grooves; again weak and inconsistent results.
Then another thought popped in. I could use small deadeyes that are so nicely pre-grooved and then just thin their sides a bit with a rotary tool, and just slip then in; Voilà.
The synapses were responding to absolute frustration with my inability to actually make these silly little monsters; cannibalization seemed to be an approach.
Regards,
Michael
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Senior ole salt reacted to DSiemens in The Kit-Basher's Guide To The Galaxy
Thank you Marc.
I thought of another material. Paper.
I use paper for the tiny details I can't other wise do but there's another use. At out ship club some one demonstrated making boats out of paper. I had done this before on a much smaller scale and I was surprised to see it on a large scale.
Here's the long boat I did for my Mercury build. even the benches are paper stained with wood stain.
Here's the process I use. First carve a wood plug in the shape of your boat.
I then plank on the paper. For the larger scale this isn't needed. use cigarette paper and paint on big strips with water. You may need to make some cuts around the curves so the paper doesn't crinkle. After it's on paint it with glue and add another layer. They used five or six layers on the bigger models. Once dried details and paint can be added.
I trimmed off the edges and got a very small ship.
This could be great for dories and whale boats. Making each ship doesn't take as much time as carving or planking.
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Senior ole salt reacted to flying_dutchman2 in The Kit-Basher's Guide To The Galaxy
I am assuming you drill holes first or because the bristles are of such a small diameter, you push a pin to make the holes.
I would love to know the process, as this is something I want to do in my next built.
Thanks,
Marc
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Senior ole salt reacted to Ulises Victoria in The Kit-Basher's Guide To The Galaxy
BROOM BRISTLES FOR TREENAILS
I got a broom with plastic black bristles and thought about this for my ships.
I used this in my Endeavour.
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Senior ole salt reacted to Ulises Victoria in The Kit-Basher's Guide To The Galaxy
ROUND TOOTH PICKS (Yet one more use)
As "plugs" to temporarily fix the line in their belaying pin holes, while making adjustments and making sure everything is as it should be.
I use these instead of the actual belaying pins as these are easier to handle, and if one is lost, it really doesn't matter.
Once I'm sure everything is OK I glue the definitive pin in the hole, and add the coil. Photos of this last step later.
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Senior ole salt reacted to CaptainSteve in The Kit-Basher's Guide To The Galaxy
FISH HOOKS - To make whale-boat harpoons.
I cut the tips from some small fish-hooks and attached the barb piece to a round tooth-pick to make harpoons. There are thousands of different sizes of hooks, so select ones to your own scale.
As well as looking good, they will also help to reinforce any "Do Not Touch the Model" signs you may have.
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Senior ole salt reacted to Ulises Victoria in The Kit-Basher's Guide To The Galaxy
ROUND TOOTHPICKS (AGAIN): To simulate treenails.
1- Cut a bunch (big bunch) of round toothpicks in half.
2- Drill the hole in your deck or hull of the desired size.
3- Dip one point of one of your half toothpicks in full strength wood glue.
4.- Stick it in the hole and let dry.
5- Cut using a toe nail clipper or similar utensil. A nail clipper is better because it has a straight edge and both edges come to close at
the same level. Unlike scissors which overlap the cutting edges and put more tension on the object being cut. This 'may' tear the toothpick out of place.
6- Sand until flush.
7- Apply your favorite finish.
Sometimes is better if the treenails do not stand out too much, so I prefer not to stain the toothpicks. When you apply your finish, the treenails and the surrounded wood, being different, will assimilate the finish differently and provide a nice smooth contrast.
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Senior ole salt reacted to Dan Vadas in The Kit-Basher's Guide To The Galaxy
TULLE, used in Bridal Veils among other things, makes very good Netting. It comes in a variety of shapes, sizes and colors :
Danny
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