jhearl

For the rubber bushing, if you can get to a hardware store, you can find a large-diameter rubber o-ring of the appropriate thickness and cut a small slice out of it. A large diameter is desirable because the smaller the diameter, the tighter the curve. A small slice from a large o-ring will appear to be straight. You can drill a hole through the center of that slice so it will slip over the tiller shaft.
 
Below is an example where I used an o-ring to make the rubber bumpers on a main-sheet horse. This was at a scale of 1:32.
 
Cheers -
John

For the rubber bushing, if you can get to a hardware store, you can find a large-diameter rubber o-ring of the appropriate thickness and cut a small slice out of it. A large diameter is desirable because the smaller the diameter, the tighter the curve. A small slice from a large o-ring will appear to be straight. You can drill a hole through the center of that slice so it will slip over the tiller shaft.
 
Below is an example where I used an o-ring to make the rubber bumpers on a main-sheet horse. This was at a scale of 1:32.
 
Cheers -
John

For the rubber bushing, if you can get to a hardware store, you can find a large-diameter rubber o-ring of the appropriate thickness and cut a small slice out of it. A large diameter is desirable because the smaller the diameter, the tighter the curve. A small slice from a large o-ring will appear to be straight. You can drill a hole through the center of that slice so it will slip over the tiller shaft.
 
Below is an example where I used an o-ring to make the rubber bumpers on a main-sheet horse. This was at a scale of 1:32.
 
Cheers -
John

For the rubber bushing, if you can get to a hardware store, you can find a large-diameter rubber o-ring of the appropriate thickness and cut a small slice out of it. A large diameter is desirable because the smaller the diameter, the tighter the curve. A small slice from a large o-ring will appear to be straight. You can drill a hole through the center of that slice so it will slip over the tiller shaft.
 
Below is an example where I used an o-ring to make the rubber bumpers on a main-sheet horse. This was at a scale of 1:32.
 
Cheers -
John

Go to YouTube - you'll find many videos on the technique. https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=plastic+look+like+wood
Of course, seeing something done and being able to do it yourself are often two different things!
 
Cheers -
John

Go to YouTube - you'll find many videos on the technique. https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=plastic+look+like+wood
Of course, seeing something done and being able to do it yourself are often two different things!
 
Cheers -
John

Very interesting article here about the windmill at Colonial Williamsburg in Virginia:
http://www.history.org/foundation/journal/autumn02/windmill.cfm
 
Some great videos of the same mill here with an article about its restoration:
http://www.dailypress.com/features/history/dp-nws-cw-windmill-update-20160215-story.html
 
Cheers -
John

Actually, it was:
 
"Who knows what evil lurks in the hearts of men? The Shadow knows!" (this followed by a rather sinister laugh)
 
One of my favorite radio programs when I was a kid! Yes - I'm that old. Yikes. Actually, it was re-broadcasts in the '50s, but still....

Very interesting article here about the windmill at Colonial Williamsburg in Virginia:
http://www.history.org/foundation/journal/autumn02/windmill.cfm
 
Some great videos of the same mill here with an article about its restoration:
http://www.dailypress.com/features/history/dp-nws-cw-windmill-update-20160215-story.html
 
Cheers -
John

Very interesting article here about the windmill at Colonial Williamsburg in Virginia:
http://www.history.org/foundation/journal/autumn02/windmill.cfm
 
Some great videos of the same mill here with an article about its restoration:
http://www.dailypress.com/features/history/dp-nws-cw-windmill-update-20160215-story.html
 
Cheers -
John

I kind of wound up with the opposite situation - inch lathe and metric mill. I use metric a lot in modeling, so I thought it would be good to have a metric mill, purchased a year or two after the lathe. However I didn't think about the fact that the end mills that come with the tool are in inch sizes as are most edge finders and much of the stock I work with. So I have to keep a chart next to the mill that shows the size of the cutters in mm. Sure - I could replace them all with metric end mills, but the ones that came with it are perfectly fine, so I haven't done that. And if you want to move to the center of, say, a 1-inch part, you have to convert that to mm as well. So a minor annoyance but if I had it to do over again, I'd just get an inch mill.
 
Since my name was mentioned above with regards to the 17" lathe, I'll say I still wish I'd gotten the longer bed. It would only have been $100 more up front but the cost to change out all the parts is around $300. While I don't often need the length for parts I make, getting that tail stock out of the way would really be helpful when I have something like the 3-jaw chuck and a drill bit in it.
 
Although I would probably use the DRO on the lathe if I had it, I really can't say I've missed it. And because I don't have room to leave my lathe out all the time, it would just be an extra effort to move the DRO box and plug in cables. The two machines don't sit anywhere near each other. Just wouldn't be worth the cost to upgrade the lathe to DRO to me. Your mileage may vary.
 
Cheers -
John

Very interesting article here about the windmill at Colonial Williamsburg in Virginia:
http://www.history.org/foundation/journal/autumn02/windmill.cfm
 
Some great videos of the same mill here with an article about its restoration:
http://www.dailypress.com/features/history/dp-nws-cw-windmill-update-20160215-story.html
 
Cheers -
John

Very interesting article here about the windmill at Colonial Williamsburg in Virginia:
http://www.history.org/foundation/journal/autumn02/windmill.cfm
 
Some great videos of the same mill here with an article about its restoration:
http://www.dailypress.com/features/history/dp-nws-cw-windmill-update-20160215-story.html
 
Cheers -
John

Very interesting article here about the windmill at Colonial Williamsburg in Virginia:
http://www.history.org/foundation/journal/autumn02/windmill.cfm
 
Some great videos of the same mill here with an article about its restoration:
http://www.dailypress.com/features/history/dp-nws-cw-windmill-update-20160215-story.html
 
Cheers -
John

Very interesting article here about the windmill at Colonial Williamsburg in Virginia:
http://www.history.org/foundation/journal/autumn02/windmill.cfm
 
Some great videos of the same mill here with an article about its restoration:
http://www.dailypress.com/features/history/dp-nws-cw-windmill-update-20160215-story.html
 
Cheers -
John

Very interesting article here about the windmill at Colonial Williamsburg in Virginia:
http://www.history.org/foundation/journal/autumn02/windmill.cfm
 
Some great videos of the same mill here with an article about its restoration:
http://www.dailypress.com/features/history/dp-nws-cw-windmill-update-20160215-story.html
 
Cheers -
John

Actually, it was:
 
"Who knows what evil lurks in the hearts of men? The Shadow knows!" (this followed by a rather sinister laugh)
 
One of my favorite radio programs when I was a kid! Yes - I'm that old. Yikes. Actually, it was re-broadcasts in the '50s, but still....

Actually, it was:
 
"Who knows what evil lurks in the hearts of men? The Shadow knows!" (this followed by a rather sinister laugh)
 
One of my favorite radio programs when I was a kid! Yes - I'm that old. Yikes. Actually, it was re-broadcasts in the '50s, but still....

I kind of wound up with the opposite situation - inch lathe and metric mill. I use metric a lot in modeling, so I thought it would be good to have a metric mill, purchased a year or two after the lathe. However I didn't think about the fact that the end mills that come with the tool are in inch sizes as are most edge finders and much of the stock I work with. So I have to keep a chart next to the mill that shows the size of the cutters in mm. Sure - I could replace them all with metric end mills, but the ones that came with it are perfectly fine, so I haven't done that. And if you want to move to the center of, say, a 1-inch part, you have to convert that to mm as well. So a minor annoyance but if I had it to do over again, I'd just get an inch mill.
 
Since my name was mentioned above with regards to the 17" lathe, I'll say I still wish I'd gotten the longer bed. It would only have been $100 more up front but the cost to change out all the parts is around $300. While I don't often need the length for parts I make, getting that tail stock out of the way would really be helpful when I have something like the 3-jaw chuck and a drill bit in it.
 
Although I would probably use the DRO on the lathe if I had it, I really can't say I've missed it. And because I don't have room to leave my lathe out all the time, it would just be an extra effort to move the DRO box and plug in cables. The two machines don't sit anywhere near each other. Just wouldn't be worth the cost to upgrade the lathe to DRO to me. Your mileage may vary.
 
Cheers -
John

I kind of wound up with the opposite situation - inch lathe and metric mill. I use metric a lot in modeling, so I thought it would be good to have a metric mill, purchased a year or two after the lathe. However I didn't think about the fact that the end mills that come with the tool are in inch sizes as are most edge finders and much of the stock I work with. So I have to keep a chart next to the mill that shows the size of the cutters in mm. Sure - I could replace them all with metric end mills, but the ones that came with it are perfectly fine, so I haven't done that. And if you want to move to the center of, say, a 1-inch part, you have to convert that to mm as well. So a minor annoyance but if I had it to do over again, I'd just get an inch mill.
 
Since my name was mentioned above with regards to the 17" lathe, I'll say I still wish I'd gotten the longer bed. It would only have been $100 more up front but the cost to change out all the parts is around $300. While I don't often need the length for parts I make, getting that tail stock out of the way would really be helpful when I have something like the 3-jaw chuck and a drill bit in it.
 
Although I would probably use the DRO on the lathe if I had it, I really can't say I've missed it. And because I don't have room to leave my lathe out all the time, it would just be an extra effort to move the DRO box and plug in cables. The two machines don't sit anywhere near each other. Just wouldn't be worth the cost to upgrade the lathe to DRO to me. Your mileage may vary.
 
Cheers -
John

Go to YouTube - you'll find many videos on the technique. https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=plastic+look+like+wood
Of course, seeing something done and being able to do it yourself are often two different things!
 
Cheers -
John

Go to YouTube - you'll find many videos on the technique. https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=plastic+look+like+wood
Of course, seeing something done and being able to do it yourself are often two different things!
 
Cheers -
John

If it's in your budget, I'd suggest you buy a copy of American Fishing Schooners by Howard I. Chapelle. 
It will answer many questions about these type boats as you move through the build. It's available at Amazon and can be had used as well. https://www.amazon.com/American-Fishing-Schooners-1825-1935/dp/039303755X/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1522363869&sr=8-1&keywords=fishing+schooners
 
Also, if you want to see the ultimate build of this model, check out Bob Steinbrunn's version - just incredible and certainly something to aspire to!
https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipM7nihATa1ff35NtyzKqnAPcI71Y76r93ddvZq_FtDY69uiBkvytrBfRp5oePTLZA?key=ZU9KTXUwbDF3RzJWM3d1RHdjXzliUnU0RnBMWXdB
 
Cheers -
John

Go to YouTube - you'll find many videos on the technique. https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=plastic+look+like+wood
Of course, seeing something done and being able to do it yourself are often two different things!
 
Cheers -
John

If it's in your budget, I'd suggest you buy a copy of American Fishing Schooners by Howard I. Chapelle. 
It will answer many questions about these type boats as you move through the build. It's available at Amazon and can be had used as well. https://www.amazon.com/American-Fishing-Schooners-1825-1935/dp/039303755X/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1522363869&sr=8-1&keywords=fishing+schooners
 
Also, if you want to see the ultimate build of this model, check out Bob Steinbrunn's version - just incredible and certainly something to aspire to!
https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipM7nihATa1ff35NtyzKqnAPcI71Y76r93ddvZq_FtDY69uiBkvytrBfRp5oePTLZA?key=ZU9KTXUwbDF3RzJWM3d1RHdjXzliUnU0RnBMWXdB
 
Cheers -
John