US Brig Syren by MD11pilot - Model Shipways - 1:64

[MD11pilot]

Like a few other Syren builders, I decided to delay the installation of the cap rail.  I'm not careful enough, and just know I would beat the heck out of the rail while planking the deck.

 

So, my next step will be the deck.

 

The laser cut margin plank didn't come close to matching the curve of my ship so I had to cut my own.  I placed the scarph joint one bulkhead farther aft than in the plans so that the "straight" piece wouldn't have to bend much.

 

 

 

[MD11pilot]

At this point I have to give a special "Thank you" to Sal.  

 

Sal, your careful planning and thorough discussion of your deck plan made my job a lot easier.  I shamelessly "borrowed" a lot of your ideas and research.  I hope you will take it as a compliment.

[MD11pilot]

I chose to do my deck in a "3 butt shift" pattern keeping all my joints on top of bulkheads.  For me, this adds enough artistic appeal, while keeping the difficulty to a minimum.  

 

The idea of joggling into the margin plank was intimidating, but I have to keep reminding myself that this project is supposed to teach me all the all the skills I will need on other projects.  

 

I used full width planks from bow to stern instead of tapering.  I do like the tapered deck planks others have used, but at my skill level I opted to joggle full-width planks fore and aft.

 

As Sal suggested in his log, i laid in the first 3 planks on either side of the center line with no butts.  Most of these planks will be covered in deck furnishings so the effort would be wasted.  Also, applying these planks as full length pieces gave nice straight lines to work out from.

 

I used the #2 pencil method of simulating the caulking.

 

The first, full length planks go in….

 

[MD11pilot]

Continuing out from centerline, and beginning the 3 butt shift pattern.  I was really worried that I would mess up one of the joggled plank ends and have to start the deck all over again.  But I took it slow and survived.

 

[MD11pilot]

Push pins inserted into the balsa blocking was a nice way to clamp the planks.  For this reason alone, if you are just starting your Syren don't scrimp on the blocking between the bulkheads.

 

[MD11pilot]

My first attempts at "joggling" or "nibbling".  Followed the instructions and it worked out OK.

 

 

The planking is all laid in, and you can see the results of the joggling fore….

 

 

And aft…..

 

 

To finish the deck, I scraped it with the blade from my hand plane and a utility knife blade.  After some sanding I finished the deck with pre-stain conditioner and a 50-50 mix of Minwax Natural and Golden Oak stain.

[MD11pilot]

I didn't want to be excessive with the treenaiing so I just used the bulkhead lines established with the butt joints.  

 

 

[GuntherMT]

Great looking deck Eric.  The nibbing came out great.

[MD11pilot]

Thanks Brian.  Like a lot of steps, this one really had me worried.  But you dive in and it just seems to work out.

[_SalD_]

Eric you've been very busy.  The exterior planking looks terrific painted, I might even like it better that way.  Your decking came out great too and I'm glad you found my log useful.  Please feel free to 'borrow' all the ideas you want. God knows I've 'borrowed' my fair share from other peoples logs, that's what this forum is all about.

[Gahm]

Your deck looks very nice. Well done! I also really like the ochre color of your Syren!

 

Thomas 

[Gundorph]

Everything looks very good... Also like the yellow ochre, mayby i also will paint mine too...

[hervie]

I love the detailed step by step illustrations of your log. Thanks for taking the time.  And I do like the yellow ochre paint too.  So much so I plan to adopt it in my Syren build.  Hope we'll hear from you soon. .../hervie

Edited August 27, 2016 by hervie

[MD11pilot]

Hi all. It’s been a very long time. Time to dust off the Syren and get back to work. 

With the deck finished, it's time to add the cap rail. 

[MD11pilot]

Now for copper bottom. I didn’t do anything creative. Pretty much stuck with instructions. 

First, I made a mount so could attach the ship upside down in my deskmate. 

Made the stamp jig and and dies. I don’t have a mini drill press but I was able to secure my pin vise in the chuck of my full size drill press. It actually worked pretty well. 

 

 

Edited September 30, 2017 by MD11pilot

[MD11pilot]

It’s important to get the pins on the stamps perfectly level. I used my water line marking jig to help with this. I squared the jig against the side of my grinding wheel and very gently leveled the pins. 

Edited September 30, 2017 by MD11pilot

[MD11pilot]

If you’ve got one those fancy lighted magnifying glass gizmos, nows the time to set it up. These plates are small and there are a lot of them. My near vision ain’t what it used to be.

[MD11pilot]

I was wondering how I would keep the lines straight.  In other builder logs, nobody ever seemed to mention it so I figured it must not be a big deal. And sure enough, if you keep your overlaps fairly consistent, it just seems to work out. 

 

Edited September 30, 2017 by MD11pilot

[MD11pilot]

Copper bottom complete. 

 

[MD11pilot]

The rudder is a fun little project.  Shaped it with a mini hand plane and sanding blocks. 

Added the copper plates with the aid of a small square. 

 

[HIPEXEC]

Looking good!

[fnkershner]

Eric! I am so glad to see this log. And you have some great stuff that will help me. How much will it cost me to buy your copper jig? Looks like you have done an outstanding job.

I am serious if you are no longer interested in your coppering jig. I would be willing to take it off your hands. Did you make 3 patterns as chuck suggests?

Edited September 30, 2017 by fnkershner

[Tigersteve]

Nice!

Steve

[MD11pilot]

Thanks Floyd, it’s good to be back in the saddle.  I’m going to need my stamping jig for the Surprise that’s sitting on my shelf, but thanks for the offer. 

I only made Port and Starboard stamps as per the instructions. I know some of the advanced guys make a third one for the belt line, but I didn’t think it was necessary. I could go back and add one more nail hole to each plate, by hand, at the position shown in this picture....

 

I’ll give it it some consideration. 

 

 

[Jim Rogers]

7 hours ago, fnkershner said:

Eric! I am so glad to see this log. And you have some great stuff that will help me. How much will it cost me to buy your copper jig? Looks like you have done an outstanding job.

I am serious if you are no longer interested in your coppering jig. I would be willing to take it off your hands. Did you make 3 patterns as chuck suggests?

I was going to ask about the coppering jig too but you beat me to it.

[fnkershner]

Eric - Do you have Chuck's instructions for the Coppering jig? I seem to have misplaced them. Also can you tell me what you used for the nails? Keep up the great work. I am right behind you. 

[MD11pilot]

Good afternoon Floyd.  Chuck's copper jig tutorial is imbedded in the instruction manual. Chapter 8.  I’d highly recommend using a drill press to pre-drill the pin holes. I tried to do it with a hand held pin vise the first time. One stamp came out okay, but the second stamp was a complete mess. You’re drilling so close to the edge of the wood that it’s easy for the drill bit to come out the side of the block - either by poor control, or because the very fine bit is following the grain of the wood.  Had to start all over again. And that’s when I figured out that I could chuck my pin vise in my full size drill press as mentioned earlier. 

[MD11pilot]

I started with the 26 gauge lancets that are becoming popular for this project. They produce a nice, small nail pattern.  However, removing the plastic sleeve is a bit of a pain. You can use nippers to get most of the plastic off.  I then set up a candle in a bowl to heat and remove the plastic part that is adhered to the lancet. 

When I was remaking the second stamp, I remembered that I had a 23 gauge pin driver out in my shop. These finish nailers are becoming quite popular with finish carpenters for holding moldings (and other stuff) together while the glue dries. 

So I switched to the 23 gauge nails. Worked great without the hassle of removing plastic. 

 

 

[MD11pilot]

I'm depressed. Spent some time wandering around the "Scratch Built" side of the website this morning. I don't have the words to describe my respect for those folks. Awesome, astounding, incomprehensible, magical. I can only dream. 

[Robin Lous]

32 minutes ago, MD11pilot said:

I'm depressed. Spent some time wandering around the "Scratch Built" side of the website this morning. I don't have the words to describe my respect for those folks. Awesome, astounding, incomprehensible, magical. I can only dream. 

omg! don't go there...it's a haunted place!