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Posted

Michaels carries plywood as thin as 1/64" and Lee Valley tools has solid basswood as thin as 1/32", both are in Canada

Posted

Well... I stand corrected! :)

There aren't but two options: do it FAST, or do it RIGHT.

 

Current Project Build Log: Soleil Royal in 1/72. Kit by Artesania Latina.

Last finished projectsRoyal Ship Vasa 1628; French Vessel Royal Louis 1780. 1/90 Scale by Mamoli. 120 Cannons

 

Future projects already in my stash: Panart: San Felipe 1/75; OcCre: Santísima Trinidad 1/90;

Wish List: 1/64 Amati Victory, HMS Enterprise in 1/48 by CAF models.

 

So much to build, so little time!

 

 

Posted

Hello GG. Looking good.

For gluing bare wood to bare wood, nothing beats wood glue. :rolleyes: 

Titebond, Elmer's and Gorilla have excellent wood glues.

As for the nails, it is up to you. The easiest way in my opinion, to simulate nails, is just punch a tiny hole on the wood. When you sand using a very fine grade of sandpaper, the dust fills the holes, and when you apply the varnish, they usually come darker. 

 

Hope this helps.

There aren't but two options: do it FAST, or do it RIGHT.

 

Current Project Build Log: Soleil Royal in 1/72. Kit by Artesania Latina.

Last finished projectsRoyal Ship Vasa 1628; French Vessel Royal Louis 1780. 1/90 Scale by Mamoli. 120 Cannons

 

Future projects already in my stash: Panart: San Felipe 1/75; OcCre: Santísima Trinidad 1/90;

Wish List: 1/64 Amati Victory, HMS Enterprise in 1/48 by CAF models.

 

So much to build, so little time!

 

 

Posted (edited)

GG,

 

As you continue on; be sure to check the alignment of anything (e.g. masts, bilge pipes, etc) that runs through the center of the ship from the main deck.

 

Now that you're getting ready to install the middle deck cross beams.  While you can easily access it, be sure to put notches for the bilge pipes in crossbeam 49 (frame 34). The notches will align with holes in the middle and main decks. I believe crossbeam 160 (main deck level) needs notches as well. 

 

FYI - I used the middle and main decks for testing alignment on a regular basis.  You might want to consider building your middle decks sooner than later.

 

One other heads up just in case you didn't notice, all but one of the main deck cross beams are precut with a curvature for water run off (unlike the lower level beams you must cut yourself). 

 

See the notches in cross beam 49 (I actually notched it before gluing it in)

post-17392-0-72172200-1445258974_thumb.jpg

Edited by thomaslambo

Boyd 

 

Current Build - HMS Bounty - Artesania Latina - Scale1:48

 

 

Posted

I can install the second deck but i like the non in the kit cabins of Boyd???

 

Hi GG

 

I held those fab cabin walls, your post in in Boyd`s log) for his own Bounty build, but in this case the credit goes with you....., great looking interior wood work

 

Nils

Current builds

-Lightship Elbe 1

Completed

- Steamship Ergenstrasse ex Laker Corsicana 1918- scale 1:87 scratchbuild

"Zeesboot"  heritage wooden fishing small craft around 1870, POB  clinker scratch build scale 1:24

Pilot Schooner # 5 ELBE  ex Wanderbird, scale 1:50 scratchbuild

Mississippi Sterwheelsteamer built as christmapresent for grandson modified kit build

Chebec "Eagle of Algier" 1753--scale 1:48-POB-(scratchbuild) 

"SS Kaiser Wilhelm der Grosse" four stacker passenger liner of 1897, blue ribbond awarded, 1:144 (scratchbuild)
"HMS Pegasus" , 16 gun sloop, Swan-Class 1776-1777 scale 1:64 from Amati plan 

-"Pamir" 4-mast barque, P-liner, 1:96  (scratchbuild)

-"Gorch Fock 2" German Navy cadet training 3-mast barque, 1:95 (scratchbuild) 

"Heinrich Kayser" heritage Merchant Steamship, 1:96 (scratchbuild)  original was my grandfathers ship

-"Bohuslän" , heritage ,live Swedish museum passenger steamer (Billings kit), 1:50 

"Lorbas", river tug, steam driven for RC, fictive design (scratchbuild), scale appr. 1:32

under restoration / restoration finished 

"Hjejlen" steam paddlewheeler, 1861, Billings Boats rare old kit, scale 1:50

Posted

I have a little problem the wall on the second deck are to high .This is not the wall the problem this is the deck that it missed in the kit (Post 15) The deck that i make by myself is a more thick than the original.

post-19020-0-80711600-1446670660_thumb.jpg

Posted (edited)

The crossbeam 165 is 7mm to long ? is that normal?

 

No, I'm afraid that's not normal.  My cross beam number 165 was a perfect fit (same as all the other laser cut beams).  

 

Are you sure you didn't mix up the beams (or possibly the frames)?

 

Otherwise the frame may have warped...but 7mm is quite a bit of variance?

 

 

By the way, I really like your creativity on the furniture  :)

Edited by thomaslambo

Boyd 

 

Current Build - HMS Bounty - Artesania Latina - Scale1:48

 

 

Posted

Hi guys, 

A very nice job Giant! Maybe you were a carpenter in your previous life.

One thing that worries me, though..

You should well guess about what great amount of sanding is expecting you, after the planking is done.

So, how do you expect to keep all that furniture in good shape and condition?

What I know from my "sanding period" is that one - the whole ships body is being shaken, rotated, turned upside down, rocked, etc.etc, under the hard sand dusting. And two - dust comes EVERYWHERE!

So I can imagine that those pieces of furniture, plus trees in the pots (the ones that will eventually not be shaken out of their places) will be stuffed with dust and very very very hard to be cleaned.

Correct me if I am wrong, but I still have trouble with cleaning the inside of my hull, even with no single peace of equipment inside.

Good luck GG, I'm watching with interest. Some day maybe even manage to catch up with you  :10_1_10:

========

Current build  -  HMS Bounty - 1:48 - Artesania Latina

 

Previous build    Golden Star - 1:150 - Mantua (not finished)

Posted

Hi Captain and Boyd You are absolutely right. I do not have a magic solution .

 

First I install all i can at the end.

Second I fix all can i do .

Third I use mat varnish spray after glue spray in the greenhouse.

 

And i will use Parafilm M from Micro Mark

http://www.micromark.com/parafilm-m,7551.html

 

But you are right ,i really don't know the final result .

 

 

 

post-19020-0-85208000-1447166536_thumb.jpg

Posted (edited)

GG,

 

Sounds like a plan.

 

I see you have the "air duster" product, it works well for blowing sawdust away. I've used it many times...just be careful you don't give the plants frostbite   :)

 

This is what I use: http://www.amazon.com/Dust-Off-Compressed-Gas-Duster-Single/dp/B004E2RG34/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1447168385&sr=8-4&keywords=dust+off

Edited by thomaslambo

Boyd 

 

Current Build - HMS Bounty - Artesania Latina - Scale1:48

 

 

Posted

Basswood is harder than Balsa wood (Basswood is what AL provides for all our deck and bulkhead paneling/planking), but much softer then Boxwood or Pear (which IMO is a better choice of wood).

 

I'm using Boxwood on my main deck and Swiss Pear for the hull planking (replacing the Basswood and Walnut)...just my personal preference :)  

Boyd 

 

Current Build - HMS Bounty - Artesania Latina - Scale1:48

 

 

Posted (edited)

I didn't mention it in my build log, but the instructions do suggest using pins.

 

Once I set the deck down with glue I used the smaller pins to hold it down (strengthen the structure).  I drilled pilot holes (through the deck into the cross beams) and then dipped the pins in glue and pushed them in.  About 6 pins for each cross beam.

 

Later I filed all the pin heads flush with the deck before I started planking.

Edited by thomaslambo

Boyd 

 

Current Build - HMS Bounty - Artesania Latina - Scale1:48

 

 

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