Proposed purchases to start my first wood kit

[BobSki]

Hi gents,

 

I have decided to take the plunge and start building my first wood kit . Having looked at the kits available I have decided that the Caldercraft Mortar Vessel Convulsion would be a good place for me to start. I have considered making my purchases from Cornwall model boats, as their prices seem to be more affordable.

 

Below are the items I am considering buying to get started.

 

THE KIT

HM Mortar Vessel Convulsion 1804 1:64​

Mortar Vessel Convulsion Brass Photo-etch Set, 1:64 Scale

 

PAINT AND PAINTING

HM Mortar Vessel Convulsion Paint Set​

Flat matt admiralty varnish (to seal the knots on the rigging)

Admiralty 4 piece paint brush set

(any suggestions as to whether there are better ones available)

​I do have an Iwata air brush but I haven't used it yet.

 

THE GLU​E

I already have White PVA glue and also some Gorilla glue (super glue)  but I'm not sure how many different types of glue I should get or which type of glue should be used on the different types of joint.

 

THE TOOLS TO BE BOUGHT

I've looked at the ​tools to avoid and starter tools pdf files

Tamiya Masking Tape Refill 10mm​ (Is there a particularly good masking tape I should get?)
Modelcraft Electric Plank Bender (240V) (Is the Amati one any better?)​

Double ended pin vice (what would the most useful drill sizes be?)

Headband Magnifier + 4 Lenses (my eyes aren't as good as they used to be)​

Set of 5 Diamond Needle Files (the ones with the Red handles)​

​Safety Rule (I'm 58 yrs old and quite like the fact I still have all my fingers)

Pick-up tool

Tweezer set (4pc stainless steel)

 

TOOLS ARLEADY OWNED

variable speed Dremel

set of Duratool knives, blades, sanding block and planes but I'm wondering if I should get a Swann-Moreton set instead.

6" steel rule

12" steel rule

Steel Depth guage with protractor

Dual reading dial caliper

SIP Table saw

SIP Bench pillar drill

6" bench grinder

SIP belt/disc sander

scroll saw

 

Will I need any wood carving chisels?

 

For the rigging I'm thinking of either trying to get hold of industrial large eyed sewing needles to make the tools, or just buy some.

 

WORK TOP

We have a marble "lazy Susan" in the cupboard which we don't use and the wife has suggested I could use that as a revolving work table upon which I could put a home-made keel clamp which I will make from wood angle iron and 2 large nylon spring clamps.

 

So are there any glaring omissions that I would need to buy to build my model.?

 

Any suggestions on the above before I place my order would be gratefully received.

 

All the best

Bob

 

[dgbot]

From what you have stared I think you are set. Leave the Gorilla Glue in the drawer and stick with white or wood glue depending on the application. My adevice on tools is get it what you need it.

David B

[Seventynet]

Hi Bob,

 

Welcome to the first time club! My most useful planking tools are:

Sanding sticks - get a tin of contact cement and various grades of sandpaper

Clamps, you can never have enough - but my most used clamps are elastic bands and cut up eraser blocks

Mini plane - I have a Veritas plane - probably my most used tool

Proportional divider if you can afford it - makes dividing up planking battens easy and accurate

A micrometer is a must.

Lots of small paintbrushes to apply PVA

 

Best of luck, Ian

[ccoyle]

I read over your list, and here's a few observations:

 

1)  I have no experience with Admiralty brushes, but brushes really are one of those tools where you get what you pay for.  I use white sable brushes from an art supply store.

2)  Skip the chisels for now.  I've never used them on a plank-on-bulkhead kit.

3)  As David said, skip the Gorilla glue - it expands as it sets.  You will use mostly PVA glue for the early stages of construction.  Other types of glues will come in handy later.

4)  I second the proportional dividers.  Very handy for planking and also for taking measurements off of plans.

5)  You already have a Dremel tool - good!  I use mine all the time.  Make sure you have plenty of sanding drums, sanding discs, cutoff wheels, and wire-size drill bits.

 

Sounds like you are well on your way!

[GuntherMT]

When or if you do choose to get chisel's, don't bother with the cheap ones, go straight for Swiss Made or other *good* chisels.  The cheap ones are terrible and will make you think that chisels are terrible.

 

I believe the same is true of the files.  Good quality files (like Vallorbe) are awesome compared to the 'hobby' files, but you can absolutely wait on those.

 

I don't see you mention an X-acto type hobby knife.  Either that type (#11 blades typically) or a scalpel will be one of your most commonly used tools.

 

Tamiya masking tape is awesome and I highly recommend it.

 

Electric plank bender.  I have a couple of them that I got during my first build, and I never used either one of them on my second build.  Instead, when I need heat to bend a plank I use a heat gun (some people use a blow dryer even) instead of directly applying the heat to the wood with a bender.  Some people like them though, I think that's one of those personal taste type of tools.

 

I agree with Chris on the paint brushes.  I purchased a couple of different 'sets' from Amazon when I started, and they are now junk brushes that I use for applying glue, or blackening, etc.  Really cheap paint brushes are fine for that sort of work, while for actual painting you'll want good quality brushes that you select from your local art store.  I have no idea which type of brush the 'admiralty' brushes fall into.

 

For the drills, I suggest getting a set that includes sizes from #60 through #80.  I use all different sizes for all sorts of different things throughout the build.  Here is a pretty nice set that I got which comes with 5 of each size (they are fragile when this small, you *will* break some):  http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002O0G0ZS?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s03

 

The Convulsion isn't what I personally would consider an 'entry level' kit, but if you take your time, start a build log here and ask for help (and read through the huge amount of resources available here including other build logs of the same or similar kit), I am sure it's doable!

[src]

Bob, sounds like a pretty complete list, Brian mentioned calipers, in addition I couldnt work with out my little Incra Tiny "T" Rule.  http://www.amazon.com/dp/B002GU68LM/?tag=googhydr-20&hvadid=74765323987&hvpos=1t1&hvexid=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=5982970346842380787&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=b&hvdev=c&ref=pd_sl_6tfziwgwaz_bIts great for layout and parallel lines. Marking out tenons, etc.

 

LOTS of # 11 blades for your X-acto, maybe a razor saw.

 

Carving chisels you can wait on but I love a good bench chisel, if its in the budget Pfiel (Swiss) or Two Cherries (German) are my go to brand, expect to pay a premium.

 

One thing I havent seen mentioned is PATIENCE and a willingness to redo mistakes. I have found I make 3-4 mistakes for every success in this hobby (Murphy and I are best buds).

 

Sam 

[Ulises Victoria]

Hello there.

I find it hard to start with a pre-made list of tools. I would follow the advise given above, about buy what and when you need.

Of course there are some "must have things" to start with: wood glue, sand paper in different grades, a few tweezers, metal ruler, pencil, small nails and hammer, patience (sorry can't tell you where to buy this)

 

Good luck in your new activity. Many years of fun and accomplishments to follow.

[ccoyle]

Forgot one thing - the Convulsion kit is one of Caldercraft's early releases.  Those kits had very spartan instructions.  Fortunately, you can find all the advice you need here at MSW.

[BobSki]

Firstly thank you all for your help and advice, it is greatly appreciated and I can't thank you enough.

 

I read the PDF documents regarding tools to avoid and also handy tools to start with, which is where I got some of my ideas.

 

I've got a fair bit of white wood glue. Evostick do an impact adhesive this side of the pond. It bonds immediately on contact and is good for wood, mdf etc. so I'll get a tin of that. I want a glue that will stand the test of time, I don't want bits of the model to start dropping off after a few years.

 

I guess I can make sanding sticks and blocks to suit the task as I go along.

I'll definitely buy a proportional divider and small micrometer, the latter will be useful for my bullet making work too.

 

I'll leave the chisels for now and buy quality ones as and when I need them. My xacto type hobby knife would be the Duratool hobby knife set I mentioned. It is this one http://cpc.farnell.com/duratool/d00298/35-piece-hobby-knife-craft-set/dp/TL10507?CMP=CPC-PLA

 

I'll leave the plank bender. My wife has a "Pink Pig" hot air tool that she uses for her crafting activities and I could borrow that. I also have a variable temp heating iron, the type used to apply solar film to model aircraft. Both of those sound like they'd be suitable.

 

Thanks for the suggestion on drill sizes, I'll them along with a pin vice for the as the Drexel may prove too large for some applications.

 

I have never seen The incra tiny t rule before, I'll try and find one in the UK.

 

Small hammer and nails I had discounted as I had read that people don't nail the planks but rather use modelling pins, should I re consider that?

 

I read a long and complicated thread on here last night regarding what is "entry level". It seemed to boil down to not so much the level of work involved but rather the quality of the plans and instructions provided.

 

I settled on Caldercrafts Convulsion because it was a fairly small project that had double P.O.B, Had only 2 masts with rigging and of course, carried armament, which of course for any guy that hasn't grown up is an absolute must

[Ulises Victoria]

Hello again, Bob.

Hammers and nails serve two purposes. In my case, I nail my planks driving the nail just half-3/4 down to hold the plank while gluing. I later remove the nails and leave the holes. When you sand with very fine sandpaper, the dust fills the holes and when varnish is applied, they simulate the "treenailing".

 

Its barely visible in this photo:

 

A curling iron is an excellent tool for bending wood.

 

 

 

 

 

Hope this helps.

 

Ulises

[BobSki]

Wow, I might not be able to see the tree nails very well, but boy, that hull looks sweet

 

Thanks for the tip re the hair curlers too, all I need to do now is grow some hair so the Admiral will see a use for them

 

Proportional dividers now on their way. I ordered a vintage brass set in a wooden box from the bay of E for just £15 they even have the broad arrow stamp of the war dept on them. Moore & Wright 0-1" micrometer also in the pipeline

[Ulises Victoria]

Wow, I might not be able to see the tree nails very well, but boy, that hull looks sweet.

 

That's the thing: Remember treenails weren't nails; they were wooden plugs to avoid the iron nails from being corroded by salty water, so treenails should never "stand out"... they should be only "perceived". (And thanks for your comment )

 

I'm in my 5th wooden build and never have used or feel the need to use proportional dividers. In my opinion, they are invaluable only when you are scratchbuilding, but I may be wrong.

Edited October 23, 2015 by Ulises Victoria

[BobSki]

Oh, well, at least I'll have a nice brass tool to lay on the bench and look technical with

[ccoyle]

I'm in my 5th wooden build and never have used or feel the need to use proportional dividers. In my opinion, they are invaluable only when you are scratchbuilding, but I may be wrong.

 

 

And that's why many builders will advise you to hold off on this or that tool.  A tool that one guy finds invaluable, another guy might never use at all.  A lot of it is personal preference.

 

Treenailing is another matter of personal preference (there are actually lots of personal preference matters in model building!).  Done correctly, treenailing on a model can look spectacular.  Personally, I don't do it.  The reason why is because, as Ulises pointed out, treenails are made of wood, and on real ships they are scarcely noticeable even when seen close-up.  But, you decide.

 

Now, as to 'entry level' and instructions.  Such things should always be balanced against the question of what do you actually want to build?  All, or at least most, modelers run into tedious tasks during a model's construction that test our will to move forward.  Whether you really like your model subject will go a long way towards ensuring that you actually finish your model.  So if you really like Convulsion, don't hesitate to get it.  Probably the most daunting task for a first-time builder is planking a hull, and though the Caldercraft instructions will not go into that in detail, we have the tutorials here to get you through it.

 

Have fun getting started!

[Ulises Victoria]

Some really helpful Forum member gave some good advice on the right tools for the modeler, but neglected to include one important item. That item is patience, patience and PATIENCE. 

Actually, Patience is mentioned in posts · 6 and 7

[BobSki]

Patience is a virtue, find it if you can, seldom in a woman NEVER in a man!

[mtaylor]

I find it's not "patience" but "determination and focus" that gets me through.   Being stubborn about some things is a good trait.   At least that's what I tell the Admiral.

[src]

Some really helpful Forum member gave some good advice on the right tools for the modeler, but neglected to include one important item. That item is patience, patience and PATIENCE. There will be time when the modeling progress will become tedious, or frustrating when confronted with a mistake, or perhaps, the direction on the plans become confusing. The urge to toss the whole model kit into the dumpster becomes so inviting. That is when the time is to put the whole project aside and pick up when one left off on another day when the modeler is in a better mood. Been there, done that.

 

Montani semper liberi   Happy modeling

     Crackers  

That was the whole reason for the sub title in my first build - Lessons in Adapt Improvise and Overcome. That and a nod to the Marines.

 

Also, I think somebody has mentioned it already, dump the Gorilla Glue. For me PVA and epoxy in 5 and 30 minute working times are my best friends (60 minute too if you can find it)

 

So, when is your kit due in? Build log! Build Log!! :)

Sam

Edited October 23, 2015 by src

[Ulises Victoria]

Also, I think somebody has mentioned it already, dump the Gorilla Glue. 

If you mean the regular foamy Gorilla Glue, yes by all means. However, Gorilla has an excellent Wood Glue, on pàr with Titebond and Elmer's. Just giving credit where its due.

[src]

If you mean the regular foamy Gorilla Glue, yes by all means. However, Gorilla has an excellent Wood Glue, on pàr with Titebond and Elmer's. Just giving credit where its due.

 I did mean the foamy version, and was unaware of their other glue. Thanks for straightening me out. The things you learn here.

Sam

[Captain Slog]

THE KIT

HM Mortar Vessel Convulsion 1804 1:64​

Mortar Vessel Convulsion Brass Photo-etch Set, 1:64 Scale

 

Hi Bob,

 

I don't think its been raised but I would double check buying the additional brass photo-etch set.  As far as I am aware the kit will come with the required photo-etch as standard and all you may be doing is buying an additional duplicate set.

 

Unless of course the individual set is an upgrade to the existing.  Either way I would double check.

 

Cheers

Slog

[BobSki]

Hi guys,

I haven't ordered the kit yet, I'm exercising PATIENCE And trying to ensure I make the right decisions before I push the buy button.

 

The Gorilla glue I have is like cyano acrylate or super glue.

[BobSki]

I've sent an email to jotika asking if the additional PE set is duplicating parts already in the kit.

[mtaylor]

Bob,

Go for the PVA (carpenter's or wood glue) for your model.  If you make a mistake, isopropyl alcohol (90%) will separate the joint.   Any CA based glue needs acetone to break the bond and acetone is nasty stuff (fire and health, both) to use.

[BobSki]

Bob,

Go for the PVA (carpenter's or wood glue) for your model.  If you make a mistake, isopropyl alcohol (90%) will separate the joint.   Any CA based glue needs acetone to break the bond and acetone is nasty stuff (fire and health, both) to use.

Cheers Mark, will do

 

All the best

Bob

[BobSki]

Hehe, I could set a place like that up but it would be in my garage. I have two work benches set up in there already. The car has room to fit in the middle. one bench I use for my bullet making, the other I have set up next to a table saw and on the bench I have a chop saw, pillar drill, 6" grinder, 16" scroll saw and a belt/disc sander. Above this I have a couple of shelves. However, I'm rather hoping to do most of the work in the comfort of either my dining room (we never eat at the table) or our spare room, which currently has two desks in it and I used to use it as my computer games room. As I don't play computer games much these days, I might just clear the desk off and use it as my assembly bench.

[BobSki]

Oh bloody hell............. Someone one has just spent £161 from my account ☺️