HMS Blandford by hamilton - FINISHED - from Corel HMS Greyhound - 1:100

[texxn5]

Looking nice Hamilton.  I am hoping to be there soon once I return home.  I don't think I can get much accomplished on the road.

[Ferit]

Your skill of rigging Hamilton, is as good as yours of wood works...

 

(Is the grammar right?... I don't know)

Edited September 22, 2013 by ashiponthehorizon

[aliluke]

Looking good Hamilton, really good. You can get 2mm blocks...how many do you need (I have some)? They are scary though = extremely small. They came with my Fly upgrade kit for the cannon rig but I don't think I'll take them on and I think they are too small for that rig anyway. Let me know - simple to post to you in a standard envelope and I can't imagine any future need from my point of view. I've decided that any future ships I make will be smaller but at a bigger scale!

 

Cheers

Alistair

[hamilton]

Thanks John Ferit and Alistair!

 

John - obviously you have to come up with a "portable modelling workbench" for those times when you're away. Not only will it allow you to enjoy your holidays more thoroughly, but you could probably also make a tidy business out of such a thing!

 

Ferit - though I'm a university prof in a communication department, I try not to complain too much about grammar! It's hard enough to get ideas across in one's native language let alone another one!

 

Alistair - thanks for the offer! See my PM to you. I only need 6 for the crowsfeet tackles....the size is intimidating - and I had thought of fudging it with some 3mm blocks, not yet clearly knowing how awkward they might look....

 

Anyway there's been a bit of progress amidst work. I've now completed and dressed the foremast and the mizzen mast, and stepped and rigged the mizzen. I've realised that it will be necessary for me to construct, install and rig the main topmast before I get to the foremast. This is because I need to set the main stay and main preventer stay tackles at the foot of the foremast and this will be very tricky with the foremast shrouds rigged. 

 

This evening I hope to finish off the main mast (I need to re-position a block or two and add the rail on the mast top) and then add the rigging elements (shrouds, stay, preventer stay), with the rigging to come tomorrow. Then its on to build a couple of main mast tops (one to be installed and one for support of the ship's boat on the gallows. I figured I'd build both at the same time so I can get them as close to matching as possible.

 

Anyway it's started raining here - something which will be more or less continuous for the next 6 months. No time is better for modelling, and yet there is no time!!!! Hope you're all enjoying yourselves!

hamilton

[texxn5]

Hi Hamilton, I have been thinking about the same thing.  I'm currently thinking about how to accomplish this. 

[mobbsie]

Hi Hamilton,

 

2mm blocks are small but they can be handled quite easily, I use a fly tie to hold the block and that leaves two hands free for the thread.

 

Your making good progress mate, lovely to see.

 

mobbsie

[hamilton]

Well I've received word that the 2mm blocks are winging their way across the pacific! And I think I'll be ready for them when they arrive....

 

Since my last post, here's what I've managed to do:

 

1. All lower masts & mast tops completed

2. Lower shrouds & stays/preventer stays (where appropriate) added (though not all rigged)

3. Mizzen mast stepped; mizzen lower shrouds & stay rigged

4. Mizzen topmast constructed & installed

5. Mizzen topmast shrouds, stay & backstays added (but not yet rigged)

 

So right now, the Blandford looks to be in quite a bit of disarray - lots of lines hanging around not doing much. Nevertheless, given that it's been a while since my last photographic update, I'll add a few photos....enjoy!

hamilton

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Ferit]

Very nice indeed!...

Curls of the lady...

[ianmajor]

Hamilton,

 

She is looking lovely. The items such as chair backs in the some of the photos highlight the scale at which you are working and what delicate work is required. 

[realworkingsailor]

Yup, have to agree, she's looking great. You just have to keep telling yourself "rigging is fun, rigging is fun"

 

Andy

[trippwj]

What they said - coming along very nicely. 

[Blue Ensign]

Great stuff hamilton, the masts look good for scale and I think your modified Quarter galleries are a real improvement.

 

Loving the look of her.

 

Cheers,

 

B.E.

[texxn5]

Starting to look very ship shape now.....very nice work

[hamilton]

Thanks all for the compliments! Ferit - I'll be straightening those curls soon! But she will still be a lady

hamilton

[mobbsie]

Looking real good mate, It looks as though some of those spiders have found there way over to you, sure they'll help out, just feed them an odd fly or two  

mobbsie

[hamilton]

Trying to keep the spiders away, Mobbsie - hard to do when my son likes to keep them as "pets".....

 

Anyway, a very small update. I've always found it difficult to document rigging on my ship models. Partly this has to do with the camera I'm working with - my iPhone camera. The HD setting gets good photos but the files are ridiculously large. So I settle with what I can get and what's reasonable to handle...Anyway the following photos show the progress since last time. I've rigged the mizzen topmast shrouds and stay, the main stay and preventer stay, the mizzen and mizzen topmast staysail rigging (since this would be difficult to do after rigging the main shrouds) and begun the main shrouds (I just have to adjust them and tie off the lanyards. The photos do not do it justice - I don't mean this in an immodest way, but just that the photos are not the greatest and do not show the model to its best.

 

After tying off the main shrouds, I'll do the snaking between the main and main preventer stays add the lower topmast deadeyes, futtock staves and futtock shrouds and install catharpins on the main shrouds. Following this, it's on to making main topmasts, two in total - one for rigging, one spare for the ship's boat. If I can get that far by Sunday I'll have another update. Until then, enjoy and happy modelling

hamilton

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[augie]

Moving right along.  Looking forward to next update!

[ajromano]

bump

[hamilton]

Hi Ajromano - I feel honoured that your first post is in my build log! Thanks! But I might be up all night wondering what it means! 

hamilton

ps - burger and fries?

[ajromano]

These are perfect - thanks Harlequin! Great job, too! Can't wait to see your Bellona as it develops!

 

Quick question - are the angled planks attached directly to the stern face of bulkhead 13? I'm guessing they must be...I just can't imagine having that much space to work with down there myself, considering how much I've had to shorten the main deck at the stern....I also think I'll have to plank this area before second planking on the hull, again for structural reasons....

 

As I said, I think I might have to modify my planking at stern/counter, since I had to modify the main deck at the stern to accommodate bulkhead 13...here's a shot or two to illustrate.

 

9-stern framework.jpg

 

10-stern framework.jpg

 

You can see how the stern edges of the main deck and quarterdeck are now at quite a remove - the plans show the transom running parallel to bulkhead 13, but this will not be the case on my build....unless I modify the quarterdeck as well, which will shorten the model by about 3-5mm....

 

You can also see how little room there is for the transom supports underneath the main deck extension...I'll have to modify these, and this will also reduce the space available for the curve of the counter....all in all, I'm not sure I made the right choices in modifying the main deck - though the only other choice I had would have been to build an entirely new centre keel, which is well beyond my skill (apart from having no tools for such work).....

 

Anyway, thanks so much again for the pics - they clarify a lot!

hamilton

 

I just started this kit and have noticed things need "adjustment" I have read a bunch of build books, built a couple of small boats. This is first real ship, bulkhead 11 seems too low to me am I right or is this correct? I am thinking of dry fitting false deck and real deck before glueing anything in an attempt to true up bulkhead side to side. There seems to be some not quite true parts, is this an older kit? Not quite the standards of today? Over all I like the quality and value, I understand this is a craftsman kit. Also this is my learning ship so a little education is grand.

[Ferit]

Like especially that photo from below to upward... as from the eyes of a constant and enthusiast visitor keep watching her construction at the drydock...

[hamilton]

I think that, as Harlequin has said, this kit can be very frustrating. For me it was bulkheads 9 and 10 that did not extend far enough towards the keel, if memory serves (though I think I note this earlier in the log). I had to add layers of thin wood strips to their edges to make sure the planking ran properly. In other cases you may have to shave some off the edges to achieve the same effect.

 

It's a tough build to be sure and Corel does not make it any easier. I stopped following the plans and instructions altogether almost as soon as I started, due to their unreliability. 

 

As for adding the false lower deck and upper deck prior to fitting the bulkheads I would avoid this. Instead you can use square wood stock in the joints between the false keel and each bulkhead to keep them square. I used support beams between the bulkheads cut from square stock, which also helps to add strength to the framework during the fairing process.

 

I had to make a lot of adjustments to the main deck. The slots for the bulkhead extensions were not cut properly, and you should not assume that they are on your kit either....Many of the "adjustments" I made were the result of noticing only after the fact that the kit was not "behaving" as it should. But in many ways this kind of problem solving is part of the process.

 

Anyway, it does build up into quite a nice model once you wrap your head around the difficulties - but it requires a lot more thinking and planning than many other models I've worked on which can more easily be built out of the box.....In any case I'm happy to help if you need it!

hamilton

[hamilton]

Thanks Ferit - I often feel that I'm in this position myself - at least on the good days!

hamilton

[ajromano]

Hi Ajromano - I feel honoured that your first post is in my build log! Thanks! But I might be up all night wondering what it means! 

hamilton

ps - burger and fries?

That I wanted on this topic, on Reef Central it would trigger emails of post on topic.

[ajromano]

I am just not glueing bulkheads until I figure out the 221 different adjusments to get the lines and shape right. I'll pick up some square stock from local hobby shop. This kit is going to force me to get a decent sander, I think my old Dremmel from my father is about dead. Cutting and squaring up 26 or more spacers by hand is daunting!

[hamilton]

Thanks aj - there's actually a button at the top of the page that says "follow" - you can just hit that and you'll get the updates. Anyway, yes, there are at least 221 adjustments to be made to this kit. 

 

There are lots of different ways of squaring the bulkheads to the keel - some use lego clamped in place (gets a good right angle) others use angle plates (kind of expensive to invest in). I usually use square supports between the bulkheads (and sometimes against them vertically at the keel (which I've seen others do as well).

 

What I do is to take a measurement of the space on the centre keel between one bulkhead slot and another. Then cut the square stock (could be anywhere from 1/8 to 3/13" square depending on the size of the model) a little long (maybe 1-2mm longer rough cut). Then it's just a question of filing them down slightly (and carefully, so you don't end up with something too small) to fit snugly between the bulkheads. Doing both sides at the same time and making sure the supports are equal is important....

 

Anyway, you should start a build log on this forum - easy enough to do. I would definitely follow and assist with whatever questions you might have

hamilton

[ianmajor]

Hamilton,

 

Your beautifully constructed hull is now set off well by the masts and rigging. I agree with Ferit on the low level shots. They give a real sense of power.

[hamilton]

Thanks Ian:

 

I appreciate the compliments! The sense of power actually results from me collapsing on the floor after tying lanyards....the ratlines may produce the same effect (and a similar shot!)

hamilton

[hamilton]

Quick question to you all about "snaking" - the stabilising line that zig zags back and forth between the lower mast stays and preventer stays on the main and fore masts....

 

I tried adding this last night on the main stay/preventer and thought it would be a relatively easy process, if tedious - kind of like tying ratlines. But I turned out to be a lot more difficult than I thought and I've temporarily abandoned it, though I think adding it would look great. Here's what I did - if anyone can advise me otherwise on either materials or application I would appreciate it.

 

Goodwin shows the snaking attached with round seizings at each contact point with stay and preventer stay. At 1:100 scale I thought this would be too much, so I opted to tie the contact points off with half hitches. But even this ended up looking clunky. This may be because of the thread I was using - it's black upholstery thread of about .0010 or .0080 gauge - not as thin as normal sewing thread, but quite thin. Should I be using a thinner thread? And what about fixing the line to the stays?

 

Anyway, don't know if anyone's got any tips on this, but my policy has become - if it's not going to look good then don't do it (similar policy adopted with hull decorations).....Thanks in advance!

hamilton

[realworkingsailor]

Based on what little I've read about the subject, snaking was only done in wartime, so leaving it off would not be a mortal sin...

 

Andy