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Posted

Nice progress! She is looking great! She will look even better in the water!

-Elijah

 

Current build(s):

Continental Gunboat Philadelphia by Model Shipways

https://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/15753-continental-gunboat-philadelphia-by-elijah-model-shipways-124-scale/

 

Completed build(s):

Model Shipways Phantom

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?showtopic=12376

 

Member of:

The Nautical Research Guild

N.R.M.S.S. (Nautical Research and Model Ship Society)

Posted

sweet looking boat Paul......you've done a great job so far  ;)

I yam wot I yam!

finished builds:
Billings Nordkap 476 / Billings Cux 87 / Billings Mary Ann / Billings AmericA - reissue
Billings Regina - bashed into the Susan A / Andrea Gail 1:20 - semi scratch w/ Billing instructions
M&M Fun Ship - semi scratch build / Gundalow - scratch build / Jeanne D'Arc - Heller
Phylly C & Denny-Zen - the Lobsie twins - bashed & semi scratch dual build

Billing T78 Norden

 

in dry dock:
Billing's Gothenborg 1:100 / Billing's Boulogne Etaples 1:20
Billing's Half Moon 1:40 - some scratch required
Revell U.S.S. United States 1:96 - plastic/ wood modified / Academy Titanic 1:400
Trawler Syborn - semi scratch / Holiday Harbor dual build - semi scratch

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Ok so I have a question. First... I made up a few test strips to test the fiber glass, long story short I did not like it I can still see the matting threw the resin and that wasn't going to fly. SO I asked my dad for advice, he suggested that I use some marine spar varnish being it was real mahogany instead of fiber glassing it. So I did some research and found out different methods and what kind of varnish people use to restore or maintain on the real deal the original Chris crafts. Now I've found one I like but I haven't pulled the trigger yet just wondering what you guys think of this method it would be a lot easier and in my opinion more realistic. I think I would still fiberglass the inside and bottom due to it being plastic and so it doesn't split like I've herd they can.

  • 1 month later...
Posted

Opted to go with real boat varnish instead of resin and fiberglass method. I applied the varnish with Jen foam brushes. This left it extremely smooth and no brush strokes or bubbles. I chose this because I didn't like the way the fiberglass looked due to still being able to see the matting underneath the resin. I will however fiberglass the inside. This picture is at about two cotes, I now have four and plan to do 12 sanding between every two cotes.

post-25268-0-60337400-1474373781_thumb.jpg

Posted

That looks beautiful, you'll be happy with the result

Posted

I will be fiber glassing the inside. I used a marine varnish that is purpose build for wooden boats, that's what the salesman told me anyway. In the instructions from the kit it says not to fiberglass the bottom due to the resin possibly having a reaction to the vellum so I will be varnishing the entire boat.

Posted

I didn't like the stickers that came with the kit they were printed on thick plastic and looked like crap when I applied them so I had them made out of thin vinyl at my local sticker shop Turned out very nice. I will have a picture of the back with the name up soon.

post-25268-0-61202100-1475238998_thumb.png

Posted

Wow looks a million bucks. I like the decal

. Good work.

Regards, Scott

 

Current build: 1:75 Friesland, Mamoli

 

Completed builds:

1:64 Rattlesnake, Mamoli  -  1:64 HMS Bounty, Mamoli  -  1:54 Adventure, Amati  -  1:80 King of the Mississippi, AL

1:64 Blue Shadow, Mamoli  -  1:64 Leida Dutch pleasure boat, Corel  -  1:60 HMS President Mantra, Sergal

 

Awaiting construction:

1:89 Hermione La Fayette AL  -  1:48 Perserverance, Modelers shipyard

  • 2 months later...
  • 3 years later...
Posted

Regarding sanding the chine. I’m still a bit confused. Before applying the PVC clad. Should I sand the outer edge of the chine so that it is flush with the sides of the frames, Dumas says leave it alone, Matthews says sand it. Thanks🙃

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