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Posted

Ahoy

 

There is absolutely no rush in any comments (if any are provided), as it will be at least a month before I will again attempt to not ruin a boat.

 

I have been reading a lot in the past couple of months, and have concentrated on filler blocks for the fore and aft portions of the false frame prior to planking.  I have observed several different methods, and now wonder what is the easiest method of carving and shaping these pieces?  I totally understand that the size and shape might affect the final product, so I am looking for a middle of the road solution that will pretty much cover all circumstances.

 

We are in the process of moving to Topeka, Kansas so, again, no need to stop what you are doing and comment.

 

I bow in envy to the master craftsmen.

 

Chuck A

Chuck A.

 

If at first you don't succeed, destroy all evidence that you even tried.

Posted

What power tools are available to you?

NRG member 50 years

 

Current:  

NMS

HMS Ajax 1767 - 74-gun 3rd rate - 1:192 POF exploration - works but too intense -no margin for error

HMS Centurion 1732 - 60-gun 4th rate - POF Navall Timber framing

HMS Beagle 1831 refiit  10-gun brig with a small mizzen - POF Navall (ish) Timber framing

The U.S. Ex. Ex. 1838-1842
Flying Fish 1838  pilot schooner - POF framed - ready for stern timbers
Porpose II  1836  brigantine/brig - POF framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers
Vincennes  1825  Sloop-of-War  - POF timbers assembled, need shaping
Peacock  1828  Sloop-of -War  - POF timbers ready for assembly
Sea Gull  1838  pilot schooner - POF timbers ready for assembly
Relief  1835 packet hull USN ship - POF timbers ready for assembly

Other

Portsmouth  1843  Sloop-of-War  - POF timbers ready for assembly
Le Commerce de Marseilles  1788   118 cannons - POF framed

La Renommee 1744 Frigate - POF framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers

 

Posted

I just cut balsa blocks to the correct width to fit between the bulkheads ...

post-675-0-67370200-1469328210.jpg

 

These were very roughly cut to shape before gluing into position ...

post-675-0-89194900-1469328212.jpg

 

After the glue had set, a detail sander was used to trim the filler blocks back to the bulkheads ...

post-675-0-46247800-1469328214.jpg

 

Sandpaper was then used for final shaping ...

post-675-0-68993800-1469328216.jpg

 

Hope that was what you were asking.

CaptainSteve
Current Build:  HM Granado Bomb Vessel (Caldercraft)

My BathTub:    Queen Anne Barge (Syren Ship Models)       Log:  Queen Anne Barge (an build log)

                        Bounty Launch (Model Shipways)                 Log:  Bounty Launch by CaptainSteve
                        Apostol Felipe (OcCre)
                        HMS Victory (Constructo)
Check It Out:   The Kit-Basher's Guide to The Galaxy

Website:          The Life & Boats of CaptainSteve

Posted

What power tools are available to you?

 

If you have a chainsaw, there are other options ...

:cheers:

CaptainSteve
Current Build:  HM Granado Bomb Vessel (Caldercraft)

My BathTub:    Queen Anne Barge (Syren Ship Models)       Log:  Queen Anne Barge (an build log)

                        Bounty Launch (Model Shipways)                 Log:  Bounty Launch by CaptainSteve
                        Apostol Felipe (OcCre)
                        HMS Victory (Constructo)
Check It Out:   The Kit-Basher's Guide to The Galaxy

Website:          The Life & Boats of CaptainSteve

Posted

Rough cutting the shapes of your blocks and then using a power tool such as a dremmel for sanding will help it go quickly. Otherwise combinations of carving tools, saws and lots of sandpaper is what you will need.

 

I don't know if the is a easy method for all uses mostly due to the differences in ships hull design each model will have different shapes that will be needed. However as all you are doing is following the lines of the bulkheads it is a fairly easy process if a little time consuming. If you are looking to make the process faster then only worry about fillers at the bow and maybe one or two spaces back and at the ster plus one or two spaces.

 

Unfirtunately, like most aspects of model ship building it is a lot of handwork and time. It is worth it though as this sets up the rest of the project so care should be given to make it right.

 

Good luck when you finally get settled in and can start on your build.

"A Smooth Sea NEVER made a Skilled Sailor"
- John George Hermanson 

-E.J.

 

Current Builds - Royal Louis - Mamoli

                    Royal Caroline - Panart

Completed - Wood - Le Soleil Royal - Sergal - Build Log & Gallery

                                           La Couronne - Corel - Build Log & Gallery

                                           Rattlesnake - Model Shipways, HMS Bounty - Constructo

                           Plastic - USS Constitution - Revel (twice), Cutty Sark.

Unfinished - Plastic - HMS Victory - Heller, Sea Witch.

Member : Nautical Research Guild

 

 

Posted

I use balsa wood blocks, cut them to size to fit between frames then shape with sandpaper glued to a wooden block.

 

post-975-0-29145200-1469362005_thumb.jpg

 

post-975-0-52659800-1469362071_thumb.jpg

 

 

 

There aren't but two options: do it FAST, or do it RIGHT.

 

Current Project Build Log: Soleil Royal in 1/72. Kit by Artesania Latina.

Last finished projectsRoyal Ship Vasa 1628; French Vessel Royal Louis 1780. 1/90 Scale by Mamoli. 120 Cannons

 

Future projects already in my stash: Panart: San Felipe 1/75; OcCre: Santísima Trinidad 1/90;

Wish List: 1/64 Amati Victory, HMS Enterprise in 1/48 by CAF models.

 

So much to build, so little time!

 

 

Posted

I found that balsa is easier to shape to fit, but it doesn't give much (or any) grip for pins for actually helping hold the planks.  It's good to shape the planks, but not hold them.

 

For the areas where I want to do a filler where it will actually give me something I can pin into, I use the same techniques as already suggested, but use basswood instead of balsa, as it's hard enough to accept pins/nails to secure planks.  It's also a good surface to glue to as well.

Posted

If you use balsa for the blocks, hit them heavy with PVA and water mix or even thin CA.  It'll toughen the surface up a bit.     :)

Mark
"The shipwright is slow, but the wood is patient." - me

Current Build:                                                                                             
Past Builds:
 La Belle Poule 1765 - French Frigate from ANCRE plans - ON HOLD           Triton Cross-Section   

 NRG Hallf Hull Planking Kit                                                                            HMS Sphinx 1775 - Vanguard Models - 1:64               

 

Non-Ship Model:                                                                                         On hold, maybe forever:           

CH-53 Sikorsky - 1:48 - Revell - Completed                                                   Licorne - 1755 from Hahn Plans (Scratch) Version 2.0 (Abandoned)         

         

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                

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