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HMB Endeavour by cobra1951 - OcCre - 1:54


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I too get the stray dog hairs on my work. Found one glued to a port lid the other night. Must have gotten right in there when I was installing and I overlooked it. I don't mind those as much as when I see one of mine and I start feeling feeling for that receding hairline that runs in my family.  :P

 

As too the hatch covers, I would think that they would be rather heavy duty in order to both stay as water tight as possible and not to easily come unseated in rough seas. I could easily see two people having to lift them up and out of the way. Large rings would be a benefit here so that a sailor could get both hands into the ring to lift it.

 

Either way, hatch looks great! :D

 

Thanks EJ :)

                       Too big, or not i'm happy with them :) :) :)

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That's a lot of ship for just over 2 weeks  :blink:

1/54...this will be BIG...nice!

 

Robin :)

 

Thanks Robin :)

                      Not too big 815mm long, nowhere near as big as the Caldercraft Victory :)

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Can't believe the progress you have made Bob.  Someday I will have that kind of time. :rolleyes:

Sail on...... Mike         "Dropped a part? Your shoe will always find it before your eyes do"

Current Builds:                                                          Completed Builds:

Lancia Armata 1803 - Panart                                   US Brig Niagara - Model ShipwaysSection Deck Between Gun Bays - Panart  ; Arrow American Gunboat - Amati    

 Riva Aquarama - Amati                                           T24 RC Tugboat  ;  Hispaniola - Megow - Restoration ; Trajta - by Mikiek - Marisstella ; Enterprise 1799 - Constructo                             

                                                                   
                                                               

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Hi Bob.... just went thru your build.... you are doing some very nice work... liked the way your decking came out and the color .. I myself really like working with lime it stains well and paints well too. Blacken er's are a bear to work with too.... I've been using a blacken er from

A-West products  and have had real good results, I'm getting pretty low, so I bought some blacken er from  Blue Jacket and I was very disappointed.I don't think A-West is still in business.... any way your build is looking really good ... I'll be stopping by now and then.

 

Frank

completed build: Delta River Co. Riverboat     HMAT SUPPLY

                        

                         USRC "ALERT"

 

in progress: Red Dragon  (Chinese junk)

                      

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Hi Frank thanks :)

The stain on the decking is light oak. There is a blackener on your side of the pond made by Jax it's available on eBay. Not tried it myself but Zoltan reckons it's ok

Edited by Cobr@
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very nice build so far Bob  :)

I yam wot I yam!

finished builds:
Billings Nordkap 476 / Billings Cux 87 / Billings Mary Ann / Billings AmericA - reissue
Billings Regina - bashed into the Susan A / Andrea Gail 1:20 - semi scratch w/ Billing instructions
M&M Fun Ship - semi scratch build / Gundalow - scratch build / Jeanne D'Arc - Heller
Phylly C & Denny-Zen - the Lobsie twins - bashed & semi scratch dual build

Billing T78 Norden

 

in dry dock:
Billing's Gothenborg 1:100 / Billing's Boulogne Etaples 1:20
Billing's Half Moon 1:40 - some scratch required
Revell U.S.S. United States 1:96 - plastic/ wood modified / Academy Titanic 1:400
Trawler Syborn - semi scratch / Holiday Harbor dual build - semi scratch

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Funny how we all have different experiences with products. I have used the Blue Jacket product with very good results.

Sail on...... Mike         "Dropped a part? Your shoe will always find it before your eyes do"

Current Builds:                                                          Completed Builds:

Lancia Armata 1803 - Panart                                   US Brig Niagara - Model ShipwaysSection Deck Between Gun Bays - Panart  ; Arrow American Gunboat - Amati    

 Riva Aquarama - Amati                                           T24 RC Tugboat  ;  Hispaniola - Megow - Restoration ; Trajta - by Mikiek - Marisstella ; Enterprise 1799 - Constructo                             

                                                                   
                                                               

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I agree with you Mike . I think it also depends on the quality of the metal you are working wirh. When I did the two section decks all the brass in the first one blackened great, the second lot went all crusty and pitted. Took me a few days to get it correct.

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That and of course how clean all the parts are. Including the container used to soak them. I've always gone with glass jars for that. They don't absorb much.

Sail on...... Mike         "Dropped a part? Your shoe will always find it before your eyes do"

Current Builds:                                                          Completed Builds:

Lancia Armata 1803 - Panart                                   US Brig Niagara - Model ShipwaysSection Deck Between Gun Bays - Panart  ; Arrow American Gunboat - Amati    

 Riva Aquarama - Amati                                           T24 RC Tugboat  ;  Hispaniola - Megow - Restoration ; Trajta - by Mikiek - Marisstella ; Enterprise 1799 - Constructo                             

                                                                   
                                                               

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I use a baking tin for my blacking.

 

But Glass sounds good.

 

I have yet to find a good brass chain blackner.

 

Tried the German one, begins with a Z I think, It say;s water down first but found strait from the bottle is best,'well sometimes'.

 

Frank.  :piratebo5:

Edited by foxy
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I use little glass ramekins for smaller parts and a glass bowl for larger ones. I find if you use a certain kind of plastic it taints the process but you don't find out it was the wrong kind until it's too late :o

Glass is best :)

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I use a baking tin for my blacking.

 

But Glass sounds good.

 

I have yet to find a good brass chain blackner.

 

Tried the German one, begins with a Z I think, It say;s water down first but found strait from the bottle is best,'well sometimes'.

 

Frank.  :piratebo5:

 

Hi Frank

            Do you mean Krick the one that CMB and Jotika sell. If you do it works fine diluted as long as you keep it warm, otherwise it takes ages to work

I put my stuff in a glass container then place that in another container containing boiling water and keep it hot, the process is really speeded up then  :) 

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Hi

My two cents worth. Pre soak the parts in white vinegar first for 10 min to make sure cleaned of ectching process gunk. Then into blackner. The pitting is caused by the blackner being to strong and acting to fast due to the heat and eating into the brass rather than oxidizing it. Use diluted and wait a bit longer.

It will never be perfectly black. The only was for that is to paint it. Using it to strong can cause the parts to become brittle.

My brass is thoroughly cleaned first with hot soapy water then rinsed then dried. It is then cleaned again in Actone then rinsed again a few time them it is left to dry.

My pitting occured using the Birchwood Casey diluted to 50/50 and it was used cold and the blackening never worked just some crusty black bits which fell off.

But to give the Birchwood Casey the benefit of the doubt the second lot of brass on my Gun section was not very good as i could see it looked like it was left lying around somewhere damp for years.

The reason i use the Krick warmed is because it says so on the instructions and it always works for me :)

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Excellent job on that first planking. Shouldn't take much to get her ready for the second.

"A Smooth Sea NEVER made a Skilled Sailor"
- John George Hermanson 

-E.J.

 

Current Builds - Royal Louis - Mamoli

                    Royal Caroline - Panart

Completed - Wood - Le Soleil Royal - Sergal - Build Log & Gallery

                                           La Couronne - Corel - Build Log & Gallery

                                           Rattlesnake - Model Shipways, HMS Bounty - Constructo

                           Plastic - USS Constitution - Revel (twice), Cutty Sark.

Unfinished - Plastic - HMS Victory - Heller, Sea Witch.

Member : Nautical Research Guild

 

 

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Looks real good Bob, will make for a great base for next layer. Looks like there is a piece of planking missing at the stern, is that left open for a reason?

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Looks real good Bob, will make for a great base for next layer. Looks like there is a piece of planking missing at the stern, is that left open for a reason?

 

Thanks Don :)

I only left it open because i was checking out a few builds of this kit and one showed it like that in his pictures so i did the same just in case there was a reason for it. Turns out there was no reason  :huh:  so i will patch in a little piece before i go any further.

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Good job! Now do the second planking  :D!

-Elijah

 

Current build(s):

Continental Gunboat Philadelphia by Model Shipways

https://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/15753-continental-gunboat-philadelphia-by-elijah-model-shipways-124-scale/

 

Completed build(s):

Model Shipways Phantom

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?showtopic=12376

 

Member of:

The Nautical Research Guild

N.R.M.S.S. (Nautical Research and Model Ship Society)

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Nice Job

 

I like the way occre provide the bluff hull  instead of having you first plank it , makes the first planking less tedious. The bends on the Caldercraft were interesting to say the least.  Bluff kits are "Character builders "if nothing else.

 

Good luck on the second Layer. if the Occre 2nd layer wood i have used in the past is any indication , it should come up a treat when sealed  and it bends nicely.

 

Thanks Paul :)

                         The bluff hull makes it a lot easier to do the first planking as you can just lay the planks in straight lines rather than follow any curves on the hull.

The second planking will be a bit more traditional but i suspect easier than the normal shaped hulls

Second planking strakes consists of  0.5 mm x 5mm limewood (same as the decking) for the upper hull and 0.5mm x 5mm Sapelli for the lower hull.

As you say very easy to bend but a lot less room for errors as there's not a lot of thickness to sand down  :huh:        

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