Pride of Baltimore II by Karleop - FINISHED - Model Shipways - 1:64

[Karleop]

Hola:

 

Before going further I decided to varnish the deck and inside of bulwark with Satin Varnish. In doing so, it is easier to sand between coats of varnish if there are no objects to interfere:

 

 

After varnishing the deck, proceeded to put some of the eyebolts and cleats, but first I obscured the eyebolts using Black Patina (the one used for stained glass) and painted the cleats dark brown.  

 

 

but then, I realized that cleats were quite large, so I reduced the size of them in a couple of millimeters (left:original size, right: reduced size)

 

Here you can see eyebolts, cleats, chocks for mooring lines and rails to close ports:

 

 

Saludos, Karl

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Karleop]

Hola:

 

I just finished doing the Engine Room Access trunk.  As you can see I used two types of varnish: one Satin and other glossy as are in the modern real ship.

 

 

Saludos, Karl

 

[Nirvana]

Karl,

I like to welcome you to MSW,

seems like you are off to a great start, detailing. You certainly know what you are doing.

Looking good!

Edited October 28, 2016 by Nirvana

[Karleop]

Hola Per:

Thanks for your nice comments.

 

Saludos, Karl

 

[donrobinson]

Looks good Karl, I like the colours you have chosen 

[Bill Hime]

Nice work on the deck furniture Karl!

 

 

Bill

[Karleop]

Hola Don:

The colors I choose where Acrylic "multi- surface" by FolkArt and then a couple of layers of  Satin polyurethane varnish. Thank´s for following my posts.

 

Saludos, Karl

[Karleop]

Hola Bill:

 

Thanks for liking my deck furniture, some of them are really difficult to made because of the small size.  

 

By the way, in other brand kits some of the tinniest parts are included or already done, in here they supplied only the materials, for example for the pintle & gudgeon you must to make the little holes to fix it on the rudder and the brass strip is only 1/16 wide, the same for the chains that are only 1/32 wide!!

 

Good luck with your conversions, for me is difficult to understand the fractions of an inch in some measurements and in others thousands of an inch. It is much more simple to use the metric system!!

 

Saludos Karl

[Karleop]

Hola:

 

Following with the deck furniture I already make the After cabin Trunk:

 

 

the more challenging part was the making of the windows hinges

 

 

and the Foc´SL  hatch:

 

 

and here in its provisional position on deck:

 

 

Saludos, Karl

 

 

[Tigersteve]

Nicely done!

Steve

[Karleop]

Hola Steve:

Thank´s for your comment

 

Saludos, Karl

[AndyMech]

Hi Karl - you're doing super work, as I predicted you've easily caught up to me on my build and now I can use yours as a reference!

 

One question - I notice you didn't install the coamings before planking your deck, so I was wondering how you put in the completed deck hatches with coamings on top of the deck planking?  Since the deck has a camber and the coaming/hatches are flat (I presume) - wouldn't there be gaps at the edges?  Or did you cut into the deck to sink the comings into it?

 

I'm curious - I know the instructions make it an option to install the coamings pre-planking or post-planking, but I couldn't figure out how to do it post-planking like you did without doing a lot of cutting, which I didn't have confidence in.

 

Andy.

[Karleop]

Hola Andy:

 

Answering your question: the solution was simple I only sand the middle section to accomplish the desire curvature.  probably is better if you see a picture:

 

 

Saludos, Karl

[Karleop]

Hola:

 

Now I finished one of the Vent Box.According to the instructions these boxes have no pre-installed coamings instead  they are bolted to the deck having only a couple of transverse wood strips.  But seeing pictures of the actual modern ship they have coamings so I put them.

 

 

Also, and to change activity,  I painted the lower part of the hull using a combination of dark green with forest green and a little blue acrylic paint. Now it has two layers of paint and only need to apply the layers of satin varnish.

 

 

Saludos, Karl

 

 

 

 

 

 

[ian_a]

Oh my goodness this is beautiful...!

 

Well done and thank you for taking the time to document what you're doing

[donrobinson]

Nice work on all the deck furniture, that green on the hull really looks good

[Karleop]

Muchas gracias  ian_a  y Don:

 

I really appreciate your nice words!!

 

Saludos, Karl

[Karleop]

Hola:

Now I decided to change a little the activities, from wood to metal, so the first challenge was: what to do the with the chain plates. Supposedly they must be drilled and fixed on the hull with a couple of nails, but this is almost impossible to make due to the small size of the metal strip (1/32"). After several tries I decided to use brass wire, with a little loop on the side to insert a nail and hammered the wire to obtain  the desire chain wide.

 

Here you can see the channels and different chain tries:

 

.

 

Another challenge was to make the rudder hinges. To do this it is also necessary to drill the metal strip with small holes to place the nails. In this case, the strip of metal is 1/16" brass and the bit to use is the number 75 (0.020 "). To fix the metal strip I had to make a wooden base where it was fixed.  Also use a base for the Dremel that I had already done since my first models and which allows to adjust the height in a very precise way.

 

 

To know exactly where to do the holes and seeing that the sizes on the blueprint were useless, I made some aluminium strips from a soda can and bend them over the rudder and the stern post, marking the place where the holes should be. Then flatten the strips and transfer the marks to the brass strip.

 

 

Thank´s for watching and for the likes. 

Saludos, Karl

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Mike40]

I wish I were 70 again! Great progress and some very good work Karl.  Your planking looks great. When it comes to getting older my advice is Don't Panic! The fun part is the work not the end of the project. 

Edited November 6, 2016 by Mike40

[Karleop]

Hola Mike:

 

You are completely right, the important thing is to enjoy any step of the construction and not necessarily to finish it!!  Indeed, when you acomplished your model end there is some sadness.

 

Saludos, Karl

[Ulises Victoria]

Hola Mike:

 

You are completely right, the important thing is to enjoy any step of the construction and not necessarily to finish it!!  Indeed, when you acomplished your model end there is some sadness.

 

Saludos, Karl

To me, the best part of finishing a model, is that I can start a new one!!!

 

Karl, excellent work. I'm starting the construction of the rudder in my RL: Will steal some ideas from you!

[Karleop]

Hola Ulises:

 

You are also right!!

 

(But I must to say that my wife considered that I already have enough ships in house, so with a new model I think it twice, jajaja)    

 

Saludos, Karl

[Mike40]

Great progress Karl. I like the idea behind your drilling jig which has given me some inspiration.

[Karleop]

Hola Mike:

 

Glad to hear that the drilling jig can be useful to somebody.

 

Saludos, Karl

[Karleop]

Hola:

 

Now I decided to assembly  the Windlass.  For this, the first step was to position the bowsprit (in a provisional way) to locate exactly where the Samson posts would be placed.

 

 

Before assembling the different parts I painted and varnishing them:

 

 

Saludos, Karl

 

 

[Karleop]

Hi Friends:

Now another trunk finished, in this case the main salon trunk:

 

 

Saludos!!

 

 

[Karleop]

Hola Don:

 

I really appreciate your kind words.

 

Saludos, Karl

[Mirabell61]

Hola:

Now I decided to change a little the activities, from wood to metal, so the first challenge was: what to do the with the chain plates. Supposedly they must be drilled and fixed on the hull with a couple of nails, but this is almost impossible to make due to the small size of the metal strip (1/32"). After several tries I decided to use brass wire, with a little loop on the side to insert a nail and hammered the wire to obtain  the desire chain wide.

 

Here you can see the channels and different chain tries:

 

DSCN2468.JPGDSCN2469 A.jpg.

 

Another challenge was to make the rudder hinges. To do this it is also necessary to drill the metal strip with small holes to place the nails. In this case, the strip of metal is 1/16" brass and the bit to use is the number 75 (0.020 "). To fix the metal strip I had to make a wooden base where it was fixed.  Also use a base for the Dremel that I had already done since my first models and which allows to adjust the height in a very precise way.

 

DSCN2581.JPGDSCN2580.JPG

 

To know exactly where to do the holes and seeing that the sizes on the blueprint were useless, I made some aluminium strips from a soda can and bend them over the rudder and the stern post, marking the place where the holes should be. Then flatten the strips and transfer the marks to the brass strip.

 

DSCN2546.JPGDSCN2547.JPGDSCN2548.JPGDSCN2550.JPG

 

Thank´s for watching and for the likes. 

Saludos, Karl

 

Good work Karl,

 

POB looks great, also the rudder, well done !

 

Nils

[Karleop]

Hallo Nils:

 

Thanks for your words, specially considering you are really a MASTER in ship modeling.  I saw your  "SS Kaiser Wilhelm der Grosse" and let me without words!! Your work with wood and metal is astounding, probably you must consider writing a Book about Ship modeling. For sure I will be one of your readers.

 

Viele Grüße, Karl

[Karleop]

Hola:

 

Now I finished the three lockers that surround the main salon trunk: the Life Jacket locker, the Rope Locker and the Diesel Pump Parts Box.

 

Here some pictures:

 

 

Saludos, Karl