Triton 1/48 by The Learner

[mtaylor]

Guy,

I have a gas grill too... Okay, I'm way off topic here.... Soak the wood in water and put it in an old pie tin or make a tin like shape from aluminum foil.  On a two burner grill, put the soaked wood on one burner, put the meat on the other. I usually start the wood a few minutes before the meat to get it smoking.   Yummmy.

[harvey1847]

Hello Guy!

 

We do not have BBQ here... we make the bbq on the floor at the garden using Quercus robur or holm oak, there´s lots of them arround.

 

With the chips of wood and I have a few,,, I prefer to recycling them by composting the whole thing with all the leftys of the cooking. Here is a pic of the fashion timbers, the wales, whatever when I was doing the stern.:

 

 

Cheers from Soria (Spain)

 

 

Daniel.

[the learner]

I wish I had more time to Barbeque because I do love meat cooked on the barbie (not the doll)!  Mark I will try your method though!

 

Good news is that I got my bandsaw blade back repaired and had a second one made 6tpi instead of the 4tpi that I had repaired, I am hoping that I can get a smoother cut so back to work we go~

 

 

Thanks guys

 

[mtaylor]

 Glad to hear the blade is fixed.  And another waiting in the wings.  even better.  We'll let the cooking talk drop and return your log to you.

[the learner]

The 6tpi blade cuts smoother but increases the cut time however the the thickness sander time is decreased

[the learner]

I am still here...working on frames!

[harvey1847]

As Mark says " ... the wood is patience"  so take it easy. I am at the same stage and I´m enjoing every single one of them.

 

Best wishes!

 

 

Daniel.

Edited July 4, 2013 by harvey1847

[the learner]

Has any one attached the first two bollard pieces to the stem? There is not enough information on the plans set to answer this question. I have been prusing my other sources,IE books and the best I have came up with is Admiralty Vol I but there are a lot of diffrences to not be able to exactly determin how I would attach and shapt these pieces and they are important to line up the other hawse pieces correctly.

 

Do I line up the bollard piece with the grove for the planking and what is the height of the top above the stem?

 

I hope these questions make sense!

[rdsaplala]

Beautiful work on the frames, Guy

 

With regards to your question on the position of the bollard timber, based on TFFM, it appears that its fore edge should line up with the inner border of the rabbet/groove for planking (green arrow) then once close to the stem head/top portion of the stem, its forward edge moves further forward and lines up with the outer border of the rabbet  then continues upward to form the knighthead ( blue drawing).

 

I measured the 1/48 plans and the top portion of the bollard timber/knighthead is about 22.8mm above the stem head (red arrow/circle).

 

[the learner]

57/64th Ok I will try that and see where it lies. I have yet cut the rabbit on the stem because I was unsure of the shape it this area. 

 

Tell me about the drawing you are making the measurements from?

 

Thanks, Guy

Edited July 25, 2013 by the learner

[rdsaplala]

Guy, the drawing I've shown is the 1/48 scale inboard profile found in the Triton downloads area.

[the learner]

Ok so at 22.8 mm I have the bollard piece set in place.

 

 

A little clearer picture.

 

 

So my question, does this look appropiate? as you can see I have a void under the bollard piece! do I just ignore this or do I have the wrong shape in the deadwood piece?

 

 

My measurement was the same also using Adobe PDF but the drawing does not really show the shape of the bollard head at this point! should I just guess at what the shape is at this point using others drawing or pictures? There is a good picture in the Niad build I could use

 

Bollard size.pdf

Edited March 28, 2014 by the learner

[rdsaplala]

That void indeed seems to be a bit of a predicament, Guy.

 

I decided to juxtapose the MSW Bollard Timber drawing (blue) with the MSW Disposition of Frame (DOF) Plan and Inboard Profile in the hope of solving this predicament, and written below are my findings:

 

As seen in the picture below (click on pic to enlarge), it appears that the provided bollard timber drawing does not include the knight's head in its composition (encircled in green) and only goes as high as the toptimber height (red arrow). There also seems to be a void (red circle) at the bottom of the bollard but it is not as pronounced.

 

 

Given the above analysis, my previously provided height of 22.8mm is not applicable since it is meant to be used only if the bollard timber includes the knighthead in its composition as provided for in TFFM.

 

Based on my retaken measurements, if your bollard timber is based on the MSW Plan, its top should only be 13.64mm high from the stem head so as to coincide with the top-timber height (see picture below):

 

 

If you already have your keel set up on a baseboard, a more accurate measurement of the top of the bollard timber is 186.53mm from the baseline/bottom of the false keel, as seen in the picture below:

 

 

 

Furthermore, since you are aiming for a precise location of the bollard, it should be positioned in such a way that it's fore edge is 7.68mm from the fore edge of the stem:

 

 

 

Just a small disclaimer, I am not working on the POF version so I cannot claim that my analysis is 100% accurate, hopefully, someone with a POF build could chime in to verify my findings.

Edited July 27, 2013 by rdsaplala

[the learner]

Well perhaps its not 100%  accurate but it certainly helps! I will have to take a closer look at the drawings and take some more accurate measurements. As for the void it will not show so if I rebuild the fore cant deadwood or anouther build I will make sure that my work is more accurate. If the bollard timbers are suspose to be longer I will recut to allow for the additional meat and length.

 

Thanks

Edited July 29, 2013 by the learner

[rdsaplala]

Thanks for the vote of confidence, Guy

 

...If the bollard timbers are suspose to be longer I will recut to allow for the additional meat and length.

 

Thanks

Or you could proceed with your current MSW-based bollard then just add the knight's head as a separate piece once the capping rail has been completed.  This may seem like cheating  but, in all honesty, it is much easier to shape the knight's head as a separate piece, and once installed, no one would ever notice 

[the learner]

I would, but you are right most people would not see it but if this model is fully rigged is it possible that is there any thing attached to the bollard head that might pull it off. I will have to do a little research on the subject

Edited August 12, 2013 by the learner

[the learner]

Still working on frames...busy at work too!

[texxn5]

Very nice start.

[jaerschen]

Yes, the frames need much time, keep up

[the learner]

juergen, You like me will find time to complete your build. I try to do something on it even if its onel 15 min.  and every one wants to know why it takes so long ...guess they forget about life!

 

Thanks texxn5

[the learner]

Still working on frames but slow going as outher thing have gotten more priorrity .... like paying the bills and keeping up with the honey doos

[harvey1847]

Hey Guy!

 

Nice to hear from you! Try to work at least one hour a day on her. It worked for me. Sometimes I spend hours in the workshop, but so many days I only spend half an hour or just one. The point is to keep the thing going. It does not really matter if you complete a full frame or just cut four futtocks, if you are "constant" you´ll catch me for sure. I asure you.

 

Any pics of that honey boos?  Must be a wonderful weather for the bees up there in California!

 

Best wishes.

 

 

Daniel.

[the learner]

while at sea I have put together 18 new frames so my frame count is over 30 now! slow going I know! but still working.

[SaturnV]

Congrats on making progress. Feels good doesn't it?

How about some pictures of a few frames.......

 

Richard

[the learner]

when I return, we get back in port (LA) tomorrow AM, so perhaps I can take a few pictures and post them on sunday.

Edited January 3, 2014 by the learner

[kellrandy]

Hi Guy,

 

Very nice work and I have been following your build and it's gorgeous. I do have a question about your keel, since I'm rebuilding mine. Did you use pins or treenails for the scarf joints and how far from the top of the keel did you place them? Are they below the rabbet or do you plan on cutting it? Thank you.

 

Again very nice work and look forward to seeing more.

 

Randall

[the learner]

I used treenails but I suggest that you use copper, see EdT's build of the Niaid on this site or better yet get his books from Seawatch! They will explain all you need to know about nails and iron fittings for your model.

 

 

Back from Hawaii, have about 12 more frames to finish and then progress should go much faster as I start attaching them to the keel

Edited January 6, 2014 by the learner

[kellrandy]

Thank you for the tip, Guy. I'll surely check it out. Back to making more shavings on my deadwood...

[the learner]

I still have about 15 frames to construct. I am cutting out the patterns to glue on the wood. I still need to cut a couple of additional pieces of board to do this.

 

I have started attaching frames to the keels!

 

 

 

 

As this is the first time that I have constructed a build in this manner the going will be slow. I always have that fear that there will not be enough wood when I start fairing out. As you can see, I have done some fairing on the inside and a little on the outside to accommodate the temporary riband

 

I will try taking and posting as many pictures as possible to show this progress.

Edited March 28, 2014 by the learner

[harvey1847]

Way to go Guy!

 

I am fairing the exterior of the hull and I spent yesterday like an hour and a halve only in fore part. No need to rush. keep the pics coming.

 

Best wishes.

 

 

Daniel.