Rattlesnake 1781 by Don Quixote - Mamoli - Scale 1:64 - 20 gun Privateer

[mikiek]

You lost me right around "please wait a moment"

 

Maybe I should dust off my proportional dividers soapbox. With those it's almost impossible to go wrong if you have your bands and know how many strakes per band. That's because you readjust remaining strake widths based on how many strakes are left in your band. Check page 13 post 244 in my log.

[Don Quixote]

The context may have been in the message before.

 

Actually it sounds like I may be on the right track from your log.

[Don Quixote]

I'm reading that any tapering and beveling should be on the top of the plank. Is that with the hull right side up, or upside down?

[cog]

Depends on how you've got your hull ...

[REXY]

i think most if not all ships that old were built keel up, do not quote me on this but i think the planking was done keel up and top down in theory the plank against the keel would have the bottom edge angled to fit and every other plank going up would have the bottom angled and in theory from top down the top of the plank would be angled and so would all the other planks until the whiskey plank was reached which would most likely have both edges angled. This could be wrong but i am sure i saw / read this somewhere.

 

Cheers Rexy.

[cog]

Brian,

 

The side which is put against the fitted plank is the side you bevel/shape/taper. You want it to have a seamless fit. You do not know how the next plank will come against it, so it wouldn't be logical to fiddle on that side.

 

Cheers

[Don Quixote]

 

Depends on how you've got your hull

That's it. If I start from beneath the gun ports and move down toward the garber plank. Top being gun ports, bottom being garber plank, should the tapering/beveling be on the top of the planks, or the bottom?

[donrobinson]

On the top of the plank, the taper is always on the edge that is going to butt up to the last plank installed

[cog]

Brian,

 

It doesn't matter how you've got your model. It is merely the direction you plank in, whether from top to bottom or vice versa, it is always the side which will be against the already fitted plank. Read my previous post

 

So the way you describe it, the top

 

Cheers

Edited January 10, 2017 by cog

[Don Quixote]

Well, that was a disaster. I did better on the Niagara and this should have been easier. Instructions say that from the 4th bulkhead forward all planks should be 1/2 width. They say the stern should be fine as is. Stern went pretty well, but I got the clinker effect on one side near the stem. of course.

 

Note: I deliberately did not lay one plank on each side at a time. I wanted 2 hulls to learn from, not mess up both the same way. No idea how I got the clinker effect. I bent nothing latterly. Second side was better, but it looked like it was dipping right away and I decided to add a half steeler. Bad idea. Toward the gun ports I had to make 2 planks into half. Not sure if that's the righ terms.

 

Thanks man for wood filler and I guess I'll double plank her after all. I don't care if both sides are symmetrical as long as I learn.

[Don Quixote]

And this said nothing about a bearding line.

[REXY]

The clinker problem will be hard to explain but i will try with my knowledge in woodworking and education in engineering. As you probably know when you bend a plank round the bow it naturally wants to rise up hence the tapering of the boards to correct this but if the board with the taper shaped still rises to high and you force it down into position the plank now has extra tension and the edge of the board will not compress to alleviate this so the board will naturally want to kick the top or bottom edge of the board outwards to get rid of the pressure this is the reason for the clinker effect. hope this helps for future builds 

 

Cheers Rexy.

Edited January 11, 2017 by REXY

[Don Quixote]

A lateral bend, right?

 

See example below:

 

I take several of those stiff card board recipe pages from the Admiral and measure each bulk head. (BHD?)

 

Longest bulkhead is 64 mm. Stern is 64 mm. Stem is 32. How hard can that be? Instructions say from BHD 4 forward, trim to 2 mm.

 

One problem may be that the deck itself is shaped? How can I follow that if the very first plank is bent to follow that deck? I always end up over crowded at the very BEGINNING, not near the end.

 

Another that may be is that I have a hard time measuring the stem.

 

See post 89 here. http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/6701-niagara-1813-by-justblowininthewind-model-shipways-164-first-build/page-5

 

I take a piece of paper and write Bulk Head               1      2       3      4      5...etc.      12

 

Then I enter the measurement in mm                         32   44      56    64    64...          64

 

Max number of planks =  16 

Number of planks at stem should preferably be 16, so 32 mm / 16 = 2 which agrees with the instructions. Each should be tapered in half.                                                     

Edited January 11, 2017 by JustBlowinInTheWind

[cog]

Brian,

 

If you put your planks on the hull without any bevel, you get what happens at 1

If you bevel each new plank at one side you get what is shown at 2, one of the planks will protrude

If you bevel both sides of each plank, you get what happens at the opposite side

Edited January 11, 2017 by cog

[Don Quixote]

From the book. Any one care to help me decipher?

 

Second planking. Glue “C” shaped sheer strake 33 (1.5x3 Box wood) taking care that it does not follow the same curve of the planking, but must on the contrary be positioned as follows, referring to the lower line of the sheer strake: 2.5 mm above the upper part of the fore port hole; 1 mm above the fifth and 4 mm above the tenth. Glue 2 strips 34 on the sheer-strake (at stem one is enough) then strip 35, at last complete upper sheathing with strips 36.

What’s a sheer strake?

[Don Quixote]

So how should the lay, Carl?

Edited January 12, 2017 by JustBlowinInTheWind

[cog]

What do you mean, Brian. I would need reference material to give an answer. Mere text, unfortunately, does not suffice for a dumb foreigner. The description is somewhat cryptic to me.

 

Cheers

[JSGerson]

By definition the Sheer Strake is: "The top strake of the hull, usually following the sheer of the upper deck; located just below the gunwale. It usually follows the curvature of the deck.” So the sheer strake would be the plank just below the wale.

 

[Don Quixote]

The only references are in those plans on page 1.

[mikiek]

Did I ever mention proportional dividers?

[Don Quixote]

LOL. When I understand this process I'll be delighted to get my first set

[mikiek]

Man, that's the beauty. You don't need to know - they will tell you.

[Don Quixote]

I understand that. My mind can't wrap around that yet.

[Don Quixote]

Truth time. I had a seizure some time back - the kind where you hit the ground and shake and when the ambulance comes, it takes an hour to remember what day it was - that has caused me neurological issues, from occasional loss of motor control (I move like Elvis) to an inability to concentrate and follow anything. Tv shows to models. I am also bi-polar so sometimes I don't feel like working on my ship. I know you're all friends, so I know you'll understand.

[src]

Sorry to hear that Brian, we will be here when you're ready.

Take care of yourself

Sam

[Don Quixote]

Thanks, Sam

[Don Quixote]

It took 32 planks for both sides of the hull. I have 11 for the 2nd planking. As I understand it, Mamoli is down for a while due to a fire.

[mikiek]

Yup - Mamoli is down for sure. Are you sure the 2nd planks are the same as the 1st?  Usually they give you something like basswood for the first and walnut for the 2nd. What wood is the planks you have been working with? If basswood, then craft stores can usually supply that. You could also try something like boxwood from Crown Timberyard. Just be careful ! Once you use boxwood you may never go back to basswood again.

[Don Quixote]

The 2nd layer is supposed to be .5X3mm walnut. The 1st planking was 4X1 mm walnut. Why waste Walnut on a 1st planking? I dunno. I'm not sure of much with this model and it's English as a 5th language.

[mikiek]

I would consider getting some sticks cut for you. There's Crown and another new place. Both are MSW sponsors.  The only drag is you may be out of business for a week or more. Might be a good opportunity to see what using precision cut wood is all about. Especially if it's .5mm thick.