Chaperon by Blighty - FINISHED - Model Shipways - Weathered and aged - My first build log

[Blighty]

Hi Mike,

           Once again thx for your generous comments. This is turning into a very interesting correspondence regarding the interior of the Chaperon, by all means keep the comments rolling and thx for your input.

 

Len

[Blighty]

Cathead,

             The scaled gap between the 2 stacks is 9 feet, they are well shielded so I think that is fine. 

[Blighty]

I have about 10 battens to fit on the port side of the boiler deck wall then I'll have that task completed, which is turning into an adventure it's self.

I left some length on the battens to trim when they were completed but a few of them snapped off at the wrong spot.

They actually look pretty good, at least in my world of scruffy, broken, aged boat building style . I have to paint them up to extenuate the rotted wood, if it looks over the top, that'll be great, if too over the top I can put some new ones in.

 

[Blighty]

THe walls of the boiler deck are now 95% complete, I just have to blend all the joints together so they look continuous and may be trim the bottom edge to eliminate gaps to the deck. I have glued them together but not glued to the deck yet.

 

Stuff I have to go back on:-

Main deck details, I think I am only fitting 3 or 4 levels of bars on the gate/fence railing,the kit provides 5 rows, purely to provide better visibility of the boiler area. I'll do these details as when the mood takes me.

 

The boiler deck has been rubbed down a little more and I coated all of it with a wash of my vinegar formula, (which is well aged now and working very well). I'll glue the walls up and maybe add the rails, still got the stairs to do and the detailing.

 

I'm still not decided on lighting, it's now or never, before the next deck gets mounted.

 

The other issue is the tar paper finish for the upper decks. I purchased some textured card from Michael's Art Supply, looks quite good, I experimented with a small piece and it takes pastels really well, the pastels dulled it down a little and added some color variation which I liked, subtle.

The other option is the fine grit sand paper, I looked in other peoples logs and I really liked the look of it, still to be decided, I'll rub some pastel stick into it see if it can be coated at all.

 

Here's a couple of pics, some more later today or tomorrow.

 

Thx for following, thx for the likes, thx for the comments and thx for the company.

 

Len

[Mike Dowling]

Great looking walls Len, really bad and grotty ! I thought long and hard about lighting mine but I think it was Kurt that pointed out that even with subdued lighting it would show up every crack and crevice even those you can't see. Maybe you still have the chance to seal everything but I left it too late.

[chborgm]

I have put lights into my last three models, and it really makes a difference, but I think you have to plan from the very beginning. If you are going to use battery you probably still to it, but if you are going to use house power then you have to get a line out the bottom of the hull or some place not to noticeable.   The two site below are my two build logs.

 

I used 3mm and 5mm 12v leds Very cheap if ordereed on ebay from china . Anything I can do to help let me know.

 

 

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/12537-mississippi-riverboat-by-chborgm-mantua-scale-150/http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/12537-mississippi-riverboat-by-chborgm-mantua-scale-150/

 

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/10758-portland-by-chborgm-bluejacket/

 

Clarence

[Blighty]

Great looking walls Len, really bad and grotty ! I thought long and hard about lighting mine but I think it was Kurt that pointed out that even with subdued lighting it would show up every crack and crevice even those you can't see. Maybe you still have the chance to seal everything but I left it too late.

Hi Mike,

              Tnat is also my concern, I went round to see my son's build which he lit up and he had to do some sealing, you could even see the light through the wood surface.

That said, I would put lights outside the walls about half way along on the main deck and one light over the boilers and one in the pilot house, that would be it. I'm leaning more toward not lighting it right now.

 

...........and thx for the comments on my dirty ol' duck.

[Blighty]

I have put lights into my last three models, and it really makes a difference, but I think you have to plan from the very beginning. If you are going to use battery you probably still to it, but if you are going to use house power then you have to get a line out the bottom of the hull or some place not to noticeable.   The two site below are my two build logs.

 

I used 3mm and 5mm 12v leds Very cheap if ordereed on ebay from china . Anything I can do to help let me know.

 

 

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/12537-mississippi-riverboat-by-chborgm-mantua-scale-150/http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/12537-mississippi-riverboat-by-chborgm-mantua-scale-150/

 

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/10758-portland-by-chborgm-bluejacket/

 

Clarence

That's great Clarence, I will check out your logs. I was  thinking orange, 3mm 9V battery power. The battery was originally going to be buried in the hull, that got fill over so then it moved up to the main deck, that fell through, so the only place I could put it now is in the pilot house and disguise it as a bench. Haha had to start building and couldn't stop.

 

Thx for your offer too help, I will decide today whether to light her up and regret my decision from that point on.

 

Cheers Len

Edited February 12, 2017 by Blighty

[Canute]

Len, looking good and dirty there.

 

An idea for LED lights inside. Look for yellow-glo LEDs, looks like kerosene lights when lit. May have to go to a train shop that stocks Miniatronics products.

 

For tar paper, cut the strips in 3 or so foot widths. That was a typical size for that stuff. Could also paint some weathered black/charcoal gray paint and lay strips of tissue on the paint. Although, it may look like old canvas with the grain of the tissue. Experiment.

[kurtvd19]

I used silkspan cut into scale 3 ft widths glued down with Artist's Acrylic Matt Medium.  The Matt Medium was painted on with a brush and the silkspan was laid down and pressed into place.  The next length was overlapped a scale 4-6 inches and continued the length of the roof.  When the adjacent strip was started I overlapped the first strip by 4-6 scale inches for the entire length and at each continuing strip.  I brushed a bit of the Matt Medium on the back side of each strip where it was to overlap the previous strip - didn't worry too much about any squeeze out as it looks like the tar that held the roofing material down.

It was very easy to do and many have commented on the authentic appearance of the roofs.

Kurt

[chborgm]

There also incandescent tiny bulbs available that look like kerosene and will run at low 6-12 volts. The train stores have them also in the MicroMark catalog.  

[JPAM]

this is really making me want to build one of these... I love the distressed look. great job! i say lights! these things looked like floating birthday cakes with candles. 

[Blighty]

Hi Ken, tar paper selection, I think you are right about experimenting, based on other feed back there is more than one way to achieve a tar paper look, I'll try a few of these methods first on some scrap. LED lighting is still tbd.

Len, looking good and dirty there.

 

An idea for LED lights inside. Look for yellow-glo LEDs, looks like kerosene lights when lit. May have to go to a train shop that stocks Miniatronics products.

 

For tar paper, cut the strips in 3 or so foot widths. That was a typical size for that stuff. Could also paint some weathered black/charcoal gray paint and lay strips of tissue on the paint. Although, it may look like old canvas with the grain of the tissue. Experiment.

[Blighty]

There also incandescent tiny bulbs available that look like kerosene and will run at low 6-12 volts. The train stores have them also in the MicroMark catalog.  

I have been looking at 1.8mmand 3mm LEDs, 9V. Still thinking about it.

[Blighty]

this is really making me want to build one of these... I love the distressed look. great job! i say lights! these things looked like floating birthday cakes with candles. 

Hi JPAM, what a great compliment, thank you. This build is proving to be even more enjoyable than I hoped for, I highly recommend a river boat of some type and based on the excellent advise received, the Chaperon is one of the best on the market.

The distressed look is very interesting to do, it's only paint and if it did not work out it would have bean easy to paint over. I am way over committed now but there was plenty of opportunities to back off earlier in the build.

[Blighty]

I used silkspan cut into scale 3 ft widths glued down with Artist's Acrylic Matt Medium.  The Matt Medium was painted on with a brush and the silkspan was laid down and pressed into place.  The next length was overlapped a scale 4-6 inches and continued the length of the roof.  When the adjacent strip was started I overlapped the first strip by 4-6 scale inches for the entire length and at each continuing strip.  I brushed a bit of the Matt Medium on the back side of each strip where it was to overlap the previous strip - didn't worry too much about any squeeze out as it looks like the tar that held the roofing material down.

It was very easy to do and many have commented on the authentic appearance of the roofs.

Kurt

That is a very impressive finish, I'll add the silkspan to my list of trials to be done, on looks this is favorite I think. The card I selected seams less suitable every day. Thx for sharing.

[Blighty]

Decision made, the Chaperon is going to be lit up. Rossi46 and I came up with this lighting plan last night.

I can't say either of us have experience in what lighting is required to get a balanced pleasing effect but this is what we came up with.

 

I don't have anything above the hurricane deck built to take pics of but I anticipate one 3mm bulb in the TEXAS DECK and  one 1.8mm bulb in the pilot house.

Clarence, what do you think?  I just checked out your latest posting of the lighting progress on the Mississippi, you kindaanswered one question before I even asked!!

All comments will be appreciated. Thx.

 

The order has gone in, thx Em, aka Rossi46.

http://www.modeltrainsoftware.com/

 

[Kishmul]

Try searching for dolls' house lighting. These come in strips of various lengths (and number of lights) around 6mm wide and less than 2mm thick and are easy to hide. On Amazon UK search for "Topledshop" for examples and prices. They are what is going into my sternwheeler this summer.

 

Ken

[Mike Dowling]

If I had put lights in mine I would have opted for fibre optics. Less light sources and easier to hide. Just a thought!

[chborgm]

To get an idea of brightness check my last post

 

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/14508-city-of-monroe-by-cborgm-%E2%80%93-scale-%C2%BC%E2%80%9D-to-foot-western-river-steamboat-plans-by-j-f-hale-1974/

 

Those are 3mm 12v leds

 

Kens suggestion of the led strips is a good idea. 

[Kishmul]

Another suggestion for hiding the wiring is to use copper tape laminated into walls or supports. 1mm ply for the interior with veneer or whatever (to scale) for the exterior with two (+ve and -ve) strips in between. Lead these down into the hull where wiring is more easily hidden. Then through the keel and supports into the baseboard.

 

Ken

[Blighty]

Thx everyone for the tips on lighting, I'll check out the options for next build, this one is decided I think, it's just the amount of light now, I would like to back off on a bulb or two but will have to chek brightness first.

[Blighty]

Exciting day at Blighty's today, my new kit came in from Model Shipways. The Picket Boat #1, a famed Civil War boat, I'm looking forward to reading up the history on that little tub. I have read all the first site stuff but need to get into the nitty gritty now.

The Chaperon has been a little bit on hold waiting for the lighting to come, I can't glue anymore decks on till I have the harnesses  routed.

I did lay the black down on Hurricane deck, it looks ok, attached are a couple of pics. I still have time to change it but I want to see what it looks like lit up. I laid down some forms on the Hurricane deck, they are not in the kit but I have some spare wood and I think it will be better with more surface to glue down too.

Also added  some rails on the main deck on port side, I have to weather them then I'll take some pics.

 

The Admiral didn't like the black deck so I repainted it a different black, looks a bit better but not thrilled with it.

Edited February 15, 2017 by Blighty

[Blighty]

Port side railings added and weathered on main deck. I elected to go with 4 rows of rails, not 5 as the model shows. Also I only went 6 bays along.

[Mike Dowling]

So now you are cheating !! Leaving bits off is just not British !! I know it looks a wreck and I know it's supposed to but leaving bits off, oh dear oh dear!!

[Blighty]

So now you are cheating !! Leaving bits off is just not British !! I know it looks a wreck and I know it's supposed to but leaving bits off, oh dear oh dear!!

Actually Mike, I told a bit of a white lie. I put them on but the wood was so rotten the rails fell off when the Admiral started up the vacuum cleaner.

[Rossi46]

Lol

[Cathead]

I think it's a Canadian conspiracy to make US boats look sloppy.

[Rossi46]

At least you guys have them... Our riverboats look suspiciously like canoes lol.

[Blighty]

Hi, anyone know where these go and what they are? The pic is the pilot house.

Thx in advance.

 

Len