Le Superbe by Blue Ensign - FINISHED - Heller - PLASTIC - Built as "Le Praetorian", after Boudriot

[Hubac's Historian]

Incredible model and just an awesome sail-making tutorial!  This is such a great example of how much better these Heller kits can be made through research and effort.  Great job!

[TomShipModel]

Very well done!  Very realistically presented.  The sea looks very good as do the sails.

[TomShipModel]

What did you use for reef points?  Did you use wire or thread?

 

Thanks,

 

Tom

[Blue Ensign]

Thanks for looking in HH and Tom, and for your appreciative comments. 

 

Tom I used 0.1mm dia line for the reef points; not a job I enjoyed, there were over 150 points on the Fore Topsail, with the prospect of repeating it all over again with the Main Topsail.

To get them to lie flat against the sail I painted them with diluted pva, otherwise they would be sticking out all over the place and spoil the effect.

 

Regards,

 

B.E.

[TomShipModel]

Thank you for the information.  I am attempting sails for my 1:96 HMS Liverpool.  It has been around for, literally, decades.  My sails are laminated silk span (three plies).  I've done the mizzen sail, but I've not put on the reef points as of yet.  We'll see how it goes.  Your workmanship is first rate, the result is wonderful.

 

Tom

[Hubac's Historian]

Hi Blue,

 

I was just reading through your sail tutorial, again, and I noted your comment on using ModelSpan for kit scales, up to 1:96.  I was just wondering what you would use for models above this threshold in scale.  Heller's Soleil Royal is 1:100, and I am so enamored with your method that I would like to use it to recreate the following scene of a ship getting underway and un-furling her topsails:

Surely the ModelSpan would be a realistic medium at 1:100, no?

[Blue Ensign]

Hi HH,

I think Modelspan would be just fine to kit the Soleil Royale out with sails.

Here's an example of I think Tissue paper used on a Soleil Royale model completed some years ago by a fellow modeller (Michael D)on a  different forum.

Modelspan would be an even better option because of it's better surface finish and inherent greater strength.

 

 

Cheers,

 

B.E.

 

Edited April 22, 2018 by Blue Ensign

[Hubac's Historian]

Thanks, B.E.!  Cool reference to this other build.  I will try to find it.  Anyway, several years down the pike, I will definitely be experimenting with Modelspan.  Thanks for the tip!

[rkwz]

On 2/16/2013 at 8:27 PM, Blue Ensign said:

Copper wire and strip used to make the chains and preventer plates.

Hi Blue Ensign, if you don't mind me asking... What did you use to pin the preventer plates?

 

I've seen Dafi grinding sewing pins to 4mm lengths with a Dremel for his Victory but was hoping to find an alternative method where possible... 

 

Cheers,

[Blue Ensign]

Hi rk,

This is the Chapter from my original log on the subject.

Faking it at 1:150

 

This is the stuff I used to recreate the deadeyes, chains and Preventer plates on the French Seventy four.

 

015(2)

The deadeyes are 2mm Amati code 37160

The plates were fashioned from Amati copper hinges code 4130; the source items and the formed plates can be seen on the black background.

34 gauge beading wire was used to form the strops and chains.

Telephone wire was used to position the plates whilst fixing, and to form the bolt heads.

Brass black /and or paint was used to colour the chains and plates.

Caldercraft professional thick super glue used to secure the plates and chains to the hull.

 

Tools used consisted of a pin vice with 0.4mm drill bit, and pliers to hold and cut the plates whilst forming, and nip off the chains.

The plates were held in the pliers, and were formed using needle files

A fine brush will be used to colour the chains.

 

009(2)

Here the chain wire is used to mark the position of the top hole for the Plate.

 

10

Here the chain wire has been hitched to form the first link.

 

15

The plate is held in the first hole to mark the position of the lower hole.

 

19

The plate has been secured by telephone wire super-glued into the lower hole

It will be nipped off to form the bolt head.

 

30

Here the chain ends have been secured and super-glued thro’ the top hole of the plate and into the hull.

 

11

The completed run of chains and plates on the Starboard Fore channel.

 

7(2)

36

 

Regards,

 

 

B.E.

03/01/20

 

 

 

 

Edited January 4, 2020 by Blue Ensign

[shipman]

Just goes to show what can be done with a well produced plastic kit as a basis. Some of these kits are truly remarkable, and with a bit of research and mods where required, they can look better than any of the wooden kits, unless you're an accomplished craftsman and prepared to throw away 90% of it!

BE, your model is literally, er......Superbe.

The link to your original build is unfortunately expired, which is a shame, as I was hoping to find out how you treated the hull 'coppering' colouring. I was fortunate enough to see the 'Cutty Sark' in the old days in her dry dock before fire and 'restoration'. Your treatment is the nearest I've seen to how I remember it.

[Blue Ensign]

Thank you Shipman, doing this build was certainly testing due to the scale and ageing eyes, I don’t think I could do it again.

I’Il have a look thro’ my files and see what I have recorded about the coppering finish.

 

B.E.

[shipman]

Thank's BE (LOL). I'll be looking forward to that.

[Blue Ensign]

Hi Shipman,

This is the section I wrote on the original log regarding hull weathering.

The Verdigris effect looks nice on models but remember that in reality it would only occur where the copper is exposed to the air, ie above the waterline.

For a ship in the water the copper would be a fairly uniform dull brownish colour.

Note: All the paints used were spirit based..

 

Weathering the hull

The copper plating was painted using Humbrol No 12 copper. This was followed up by painting individual plates slightly different shades of copper at random.

005

 

Much thinned down Floquil Verdigris was used for the initial wash, and using downward strokes was all but removed to allow the basic copper to show thro’ but dulled down.

007

 

Using a  fine brush neat Floquil Verdigris was brushed down in vertical lines and  over brushed with Admiralty dull white.

002

 

White spirit was then liberally brushed down over the paint to create the effect.

009

Once dry, a 5/0 brush was used to apply a little more dull white in fine downward strokes.

This is more or less the result I am after, but there is always the temptation to fiddle with the weathering long after the initial application has been made, and  touch up work will be required once the hull halves are put together.

B.E.

[Hubac's Historian]

All fascinating technique, B.E.  It is an interesting peculiarity of the Heller kits that they, mostly all, seem to have this un-detailed patch along the mid-ship floors.  I’ll have to take a look at my un-built 1:100 Victory, but I seem to recall that is the case, there, as well.

 

Also, I noticed the subtle wearing of the black on the edges of the wales.  This is a nice touch, and I wish I had thought of that when I was doing my undercoats for S.R.  Maybe I’ll dry-brush some dark brown before my final clear top-coat.

 

Anyway, I’m enjoying very much this continued discussion of a very fine model.

[shipman]

Thank's for that BE. Has the Floquil Verdigris special properties, or is it their version of a particular colour? (I have many paints in my hoard, but none of the Floquil range)

[Blue Ensign]

I'm not sure that the paint has special properties and I think they have been discontinued, probably on ecological and health grounds.

 

I bought a set of the Floquil marine colours  many years ago, one of which was the Verdigris. The others had interesting names like Tallow Coat, Pine tar oil, Weathered Manilla, and Orange Ochre. 

 

 I don't think you would have much trouble finding a substitute Verdigris paint, it is widely used to create  an aged copper look in the arts and craft world.

 

B.E.

[Kevin-the-lubber]

I'm so glad to have found your work on here, BE, I remember it from the old site and had particularly wanted to use the sail making tutorial and copper weathering as a reference, as well as loads of other stuff. 

[Blue Ensign]

Thanks Kevin you're welcome.

This is just an abridged version of the full log, which was too much to transfer to MSW, but f there are any  specific aspects you are interested in I probably still have the information.

 

Cheers,

 

B.E.

[Admiral Beez]

On 2/16/2013 at 4:00 AM, Blue Ensign said:

From Le Superbe to Le Praetorian – A  Heller Seventy-four, after Boudriot

This is a summarised record of my attempt to modify a small scale plastic
kit by reference to the works of Jean Boudriot. Very few of the original kit
fittings were used in the build.

 

This was to be a first attempt at fully detailing a model of this scale,
adding sails and displaying in a waterline setting.

Early progress
 

 

Lower deck detail.

 

Upperdeck showing Galley and Pastry oven.

One unfortunate fellow is spending time in the bilboes, for swearing on a Sunday.

Restyling the Foc’sle rail.

 

 

Modified waist railings using brass strip.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I am about to start Heller’s 1/150 Le Superbe as HMS Spartiate.  I notice your ship sides have plank lines rather than the plywood look.  How did you do this?     Thanks.

[Blue Ensign]

Thanks for looking in Admiral.

I scribed three lines of planking between the ports using a styrene strip as a guide. The scribing was done using a curved dentists probe altho’ I think Tamiya make a plastic scriber tool.

I also scribed the wales in the same manner.

 

Hope this helps.

 

B.E.

 

[Admiral Beez]

On 9/29/2021 at 2:40 AM, Blue Ensign said:

Thanks for looking in Admiral.

I scribed three lines of planking between the ports using a styrene strip as a guide. The scribing was done using a curved dentists probe altho’ I think Tamiya make a plastic scriber tool.

I also scribed the wales in the same manner.

 

Hope this helps.

 

B.E.

 

Nice.   I may try that myself.

 

Can you tell me the colours you used?  I'm looking to build Heller's Le Superbe as HMS Spartiate and will use Victory's colour scheme.   

 

 

I do not have an air brush (or ventilation booth) so will use traditional brushed paints and rattle cans.   My local shop has Tamiya but I can source online most brands.   I appreciate any guidance, thanks.

 

What's your thought on air brushes with acrylic, is a booth necessary?  I don't want to stink up the house, though I have bathroom ceiling fan beside my worktop.   I'm thinking of getting an air brush, but I'm not sure.

Edited September 30, 2021 by Admiral Beez

[Blue Ensign]

Hello Admiral,

I have looked back at my build notes and this is what I wrote at the time.

The side colour

For this model I wanted to achieve that mellow golden look between the wales that is representative of ‘bright’ sides ie payed with rosin, as seen in many marine paintings contemporary to the period.

After some trialling I decided upon Humbrol Matt Cream (103) as the base coat.

Once dry I coated it with white shellac, which dries very quickly, and then over-painted with mellow pine wood dye.

This may seem a little unorthodox to many model painters, but I obviously tried out the operation on a spare plastic hull before committing to the real thing.

 

I think I have got close to the colour I am after.

 

The Wales and Topsides are blackened, (Humbrol 33) but I have reduced the black paint by the addition of quite a proportion of sea grey (Humbrol 27) to give a finish several shades less than the original black.

 

Overall this is not as complex as Victory to paint the broadsides as the strakes follow the lines of the wales, but the Topside mouldings do take a little careful masking given the smaller scale.

Inside the hull halves the bulwarks were painted Red ochre – what else, much easier done before assembly as the tumblehome restricts access.

 

On the subject of air brushes, I have little to say.

I prefer to hand paint model ships, I think it gives a more natural look.

 

Regards,

 

B.E.

[Admiral Beez]

On 2/16/2013 at 6:55 AM, Blue Ensign said:

 

 

 

 

Stern Qtr details.

 

I think this has been the most exacting build I have undertaken due to the small scale and my
less than good eyesight, I am very pleased with the result but I don’t think I
will attempt another at this scale.

Hi BE.  I notice the Le Superbe kit omits gun port lids on the upper deck.  This seems a big error on Heller’s part since I believe Le Superbe (and all ships of the line) had gun door lids on their full length gun decks, as shown on the plans.  Did you consider mocking some up?   I’m pondering such a move.

 

Edited October 22, 2021 by Admiral Beez

[Blue Ensign]

The Heller kit is correct, on French 74's the upper gun- deck ports had no lids, the recognised authority on French 74's, Jean Boudriot, confirms this in his four volume work on the subject.

On British ships ports along the open waist were also without port lids, altho' some may be fitted beneath the Foc'sle and Quarterdecks.

 

Regards,

 

B.E.

 

 

[Admiral Beez]

On 10/22/2021 at 2:56 AM, Blue Ensign said:

The Heller kit is correct, on French 74's the upper gun- deck ports had no lids, the recognised authority on French 74's, Jean Boudriot, confirms this in his four volume work on the subject.

On British ships ports along the open waist were also without port lids, altho' some may be fitted beneath the Foc'sle and Quarterdecks.

Thanks B.E.  That’s interesting as I’d have thought the French would at least want upper gun-deck port lids below the poop deck to provide some weather protection forward of the stern cabins and gallery.

[Blue Ensign]

There were small glazed lights with half shutters  directly below the Poop deck to serve the cabins along the Quarterdeck at the stern.

 

B.E.

[Admiral Beez]

On 2/16/2013 at 4:27 AM, Blue Ensign said:

Continuing
 

 

Hi B.E., I've now primed my cannons and carriages and am beginning to plan out their painting and assembly.      How did you attach the tackle ropes to the side of the hull?   I think you have small eyelets glued to the hull insides, what are those?    Did you fabricate the tackle ropes for all cannons or just those that are visible? 

 

As for the ropes for the gun lids, what rope do you recommend?   I have drilled out the hull for for the ropes that close the ports lids using a 0.6 mm bit. I want to tie knots so I assume fishing line is out.  Plus I want that yellow, running rigging colour.

 

This is new technique for me so any advice is welcome, thanks.

Edited November 30, 2021 by Admiral Beez

[Blue Ensign]

A few questions there Admiral, I will have to  dig out my old log record and see  what I did. I will get back to you.

 

B.E.

[72Nova]

I fondly remember your build on the Le Superbe Maurice...exquisite!!. The Soliel Royale was my first attempt at tissue paper sails and kit bashing, still can't believe it took only 8.5 months to complete, sure do miss that old forum though...Cheers.

 

Michael D.