USS Constitution by JSGerson - Model Shipways Kit No. MS2040

[JSGerson]

When I first started making models around age 10, obviously they were plastic, but I never liked the simple ones. I always chose the ones with the most parts, so most of the time I made modern ships and maybe a few cars and planes. No one I knew made models and therefore I was self taught. I wasn't even aware that you could buy paint. So although, I learned to assemble the kits fairly well they never looked as good as what I saw on the box. Boy, have times changed.

 

Jon

[JSGerson]

The Main Grating

If I was following the kit instructions (what there is of them), the main grating would be very simple; just build a border around the laser cut main grating provided by the kit and it would be done.

 

If I were following the practicum, it’s a bit more complicated. Mr. Hunt would have you slice the grating lengthwise and add a support beam down the length of the full grating using complex lap joints.

 

But, if you plan on leaving half of the gratings open, and adding ladders to the gun deck so that the gun deck can be viewed, it’s almost a complete scratch build.

 

The exterior border frame, which is taller than the other grating frames, was fabricated just like all the other frames using the boxwood pieces (provided by the wood supplement package). The 5/16” x 3/32” boxwood was cut as follows:

• 2 pieces: 6 9/16” lengthwise
• 2 pieces: 2 5/32” beam wise

These pieces were glued together with butt joints creating a large open frame.

 

Next, I held my breath as I cut off the four most forward gratings with the Byrnes Saw. These were used to set the first internal beam frame. The two outer corner gratings will remain off the framework to allow the installation of ladders to the gun deck.

Edited September 8 by JSGerson

[JSGerson]

The remainder of the main grating was sliced lengthwise. One half remained intact, while the other was cut again into individual gratings. It is to be noted that there are six different size gratings that comprise the 18 total on the single laser cut piece. So as not to mix them up, I only cut off what I needed, before I moved on to the next one using them to set the next beam frame in turn.

 

The internal framing was made from various pieces of 5/16” x 1/16” boxwood which I had to mill myself on the Byrne’s Saw. The supplemental wood package was based on the practicum which did not address removing grating to reveal underling structure.

 

Using 1/8”x1/32” boxwood, the internal lip was created to support the intact remaining long grating as well as the individual open frameworks. Finally, the assembly was stained and painted. The last components to be added to the main grating frame were the six eyebolt and rings assemblies.

[JSGerson]

The main reason the hatches were fabricated at this point was to workout the alignment with gun deck bulkhead spar beams. If you look at the image below, you will see the comparison of the:

• Assembled main hatchway based on the kit’s gratings,
• 1927 US Navy Main hatchway beam plan which matches the kit’s plans,
• 2010 US Navy Main hatchway beam plan which also matches with the kit,
• Kit bulkheads beam plan.

[JSGerson]

The fabricated main hatchway DOES NOT match or align with any plan!

The biggest surprise was that the main hatchway DID align closely (although not perfectly) with the pre-installed knee supports on the gun deck bulwarks which were “eyeballed” into position. If I had just looked far enough ahead to understand all the interconnections or had a consistent and complete set of construction plans. I might have had a little better alignment at this point.

 

If one fabricated the kit as designed like Mr. Hunt did, there would be no problem; all the beams would be hidden. The 1927 and 2010 US Navy plans for the hatchway support beams match closely with the kit (which was based for the most part on the 1927 restoration). The kit plans even indicated the removal of the aft ladders during the 1996 restoration. The kit’s laser cut gratings, however, do not match anything I can find in the US Navy plans and the gratings design are not even shown on the kit plans. So, my model will be a Frankenstein combination of components and adjustments that may look good to the layman but won’t be accurate. So be it and move forward. Below are some dry fit ups.

[Der Alte Rentner]

On 6/29/2024 at 7:57 AM, Geoff Matson said:

Remember the old days of plastic when all had to do it just glue the part on the model instead of making it? 

 

Some part of me is thinking those were the "good" old days. Much less work.. 😁

 

but perhaps not as satisfying in the end.

🙄

[JSGerson]

There are several things that still must be accomplished on the gun deck before I can start work on the spar deck. They are:

• Ladders going up to the spar deck.
• Main mast bitts
• Capstan and its related anchor ropes and chain
• “Temporary” support posts under the main hatchway

Ladders

The first item I attempted was the ladder leading up to the double hatchway by the ship’s wheel. I figured this would be a good one to do first because if I don’t do a decent job here, it would be hidden under the grating I presently have in the hatch.

 

I have yet to make a ladder to my satisfaction starting from my first POB model, Rattlesnake. Because of my dissatisfaction, I haven’t made ladders the same way twice each time trying a different method. This time, I am taking my cues from Mustafa (aka mtbediz, post #340)

 

Mustafa has a real drill press, something I don’t have. So, using my Dremel rotary tool, an old version Dremel drill press accessory, and a Proxxon X-Y table, I rigged an ad hoc drill press. I mounted a normal and reverse image of the US Navy plan for the ladder on a wooden block with double sided tape. The sides of the ladder were to be 1/8”x1/16” and the steps 1/8”x1/32” boxwood, also mounted on top of the plan images with double sided tape. Then the wooden block itself was mounted on the X-Y table with double sided tape. A 1/32” router bit was installed in the Dremel to cut grooves in the ladder sides 1/32” deep to accept the steps.

[JSGerson]

The Dremel drill press stand is not a precise instrument. I needed the router bit to stop precisely 1/32” above the X-Y table when I lowered the Dremel to its stop position to cut the 1/32”x1/32” groove in the 1/16” thick side pieces. Unfortunately, the drill-stop only adjusted to 1/16” increments. I had to use a piece of scrap 1/32” wood inserted in the drill stop.

 

Because the X-Y table is just clamped to the drill stand, aligning the block with the ladder images as well as the X-Y table to the stand was very tricky and tedious. The X-Y axis of the table must match the X-Y axis of the ladder images. This in turn must align with the drill bit so that the cuts match the images when the table cranks are turned. Finally, I got it all working after a couple of false starts.

[JSGerson]

I initially used white glue to install the steps one at a time with a right-angle block. This allowed me to adjust the steps. Once all the steps were glued to one side, it was a little like herding cats. All the steps had to line up exactly to their counter part on the second side piece before it would all come together nicely. The results were not perfect, but better than my previous attempts. Here is a dry fit. Although the access is closed with the grating, you might be able to see part of the ladder from other openings in the spar deck. I will probably remove the grating when it’s permanently installed.

[JSGerson]

Then I had to do it all over again for the main hatchway ladders were fabricated. This time because the two ladders were identical, the grooves in the four sides were cut at the same time. These will be installed when the hatches are. Mustafa made it look easy.

[GGibson]

Great work, Jon, in using the Dremel to achieve your goals.  The ladders look really nice from my perspective.

 

I was also impressed with Mustafa's method in using his Proxxon mill machine and I'm excited to have added that mill machine to my shipyard tools, as well.  I have used it several times already with my Bluenose and am sure it will get a workout once I get to my Constitution.

 

Anxious to see your remaining work on your gun deck!  Carry on! 👍

[Der Alte Rentner]

31 minutes ago, JSGerson said:

Mustafa made it look easy.

Mustafa has years of experience and the right tools for the job.  That you could accomplish the same, given the ad hoc setup you had, is a testament to your tenacity.  Nice job!

[JSGerson]

Gregg, it's taken me 7 years to get this far, so hopeful I'll be working on the spar deck in months instead of years from now!😁

[mtbediz]

Excellent results with limited tools. Congratulations Jon.

Edited August 1 by mtbediz

[JSGerson]

Thanks everyone for the kudos.

 

Gun Deck Main Mast Bitts

The bitts next to the main mast are similar in function to the foremast bitts, but a little different design.

The bitts’ vertical posts cross sections were measured from the US Navy plan as 1/16”x1/16” (scale). The remainder of the dimensions were “eyeballed.” All wooden parts were boxwood. Parts:

• Vertical post 1/16”x1/16”
• Diagonal braces 3/32”x 3/32”
• Horizontal beam 3/64”x3/64”
• Brass roller bracket 0.010” thick plate
• Brass roller pin 0.032” diameter rod
• Brass roller tube 1/16”

[JSGerson]

Another spar support beam was added complete with diagonal knees at the bulwarks where the bitts are located. The bitts in actuality, passes vertically through the planking of the spar deck. This wasn’t done on the model as they won’t be seen as a continuous structure and would just add another layer of complexity to the build. Therefore, the vertical column stopped at the top surface of the spar deck support beam. If all goes well, the bitts on the spar deck will be glued directly over the gun deck bitts without any adjustment. If not, there will be some wiggle room and any slight misalignments won’t be noticed (if all goes well).

 

The rollers were constructed as before for the foremast bitts.  A hole was drilled to accept the cross beam. The brass rod slips inside the brass tube. The brackets were made from the brass sheet after a hole was punched into it for each bracket. Then the brass sheet was cut to size and bent to shape. Each wooden bitt was made of two pieces of stained (gunstock) boxwood cut to shape. The vertical pieces with the roller assembly were installed first. Once the glue dried, the diagonal braces were added to ensure a proper fit to the vertical and horizontal surfaces.

Edited September 8 by JSGerson

[GGibson]

Looks really good, Jon!  Great attention to detail.  I need some education, though... what was the actual purpose of the black tubes attached to the posts?  Were they just a "protection buffer" for the posts as things were being moved around on the deck?  Or was there another purpose?

 

I like your RP Toolz punch & die set!  Have you used that a lot?  I saw it and thought "Oooh, I need that, too!!" 🤣

 

Great work, sir!

[JSGerson]

I believe the the vertical rollers help guide and move the anchor chain/cable or the messenger cable (not sure which at this point) when they are activated. They also provide (as you stated) a buffer from them rubbing on the vertical supports and columns.

 

I originally purchased the RP Toolz punch to create the thousands of pseudo boltheads you see on the bulwarks. The method the practicum used, plastic rivets heads, was too labor intensive and I felt the scale was too large. With this punch set, I could punch out 0.6mm - 2.0 mm diameter hemispheric pieces out of the brass plate. In both cases I used the 0.6mm punch. First, to create the pseudo bolthead and then here, to create the bracket holes. The set is not cheap. about $115. I don't remember what I paid for it when I got it some 5 years ago.

[Nirvana]

4 hours ago, JSGerson said:

I believe the the vertical rollers help guide and move the anchor chain/cable or the messenger cable (not sure which at this point) when they are activated. They also provide (as you stated) a buffer from them rubbing on the vertical supports and columns.

 

I originally purchased the RP Toolz punch to create the thousands of pseudo boltheads you see on the bulwarks. The method the practicum used, plastic rivets heads, was too labor intensive and I felt the scale was too large. With this punch set, I could punch out 0.6mm - 2.0 mm diameter hemispheric pieces out of the brass plate. In both cases I used the 0.6mm punch. First, to create the pseudo bolthead and then here, to create the bracket holes. The set is not cheap. about $115. I don't remember what I paid for it when I got it some 5 years ago.

Current price is 125 dollars....

Otherwise here is an option when it comes to model punch tools.

[JSGerson]

I ran into a couple of surprises that although I had thought about them before, I overlooked in the end. When the capstan is engaged, anything that would interfere with the capstan operation and anchor cable/chain are in the clear, like hatch covers are in place and ladders are stowed away. In my case, I fabricated the hand ropes and stanchions for the ladders going down to the berth deck next to the gun deck capstan. As built, they would interfere with the messenger cable wrapping around the capstan. Also, I forgot to create the ladders going up to the spar deck for the open capstan hatchway, which I took care of.

 

One of the infamous Murphy’s Laws states: that no matter what you must do, you must do something else first. In this case I must install more supporting spar beams and their associated diagonal knees at the bulwarks as well as their support columns. But the more beams I install, the more difficult it becomes to install other items on the gun deck. Therefore, I’m constantly checking the sequence of fabrication and installation.

 

While I’m doing this, I decided it was time to lay down an anchor cable and an anchor chain. There are three anchors that came with the MS kit. One will be attached to the anchor chain, the second one to the anchor cable, and the third will be stowed on the deck.

 

The anchor chain that came with the kit has single links, but according to the photographs of the ship when she last used her anchor in the 1930s, she had a cross-linked chain. Today those chains are being used for mooring. I bought such a chain off the internet a year or so ago and unfortunately neglected to record where I purchased it from. The chain metal appears to be copper which required that it be blackened. The picture below shows the chain after it was blackened and drying.

[JSGerson]

Determination of the Anchor Cable and Messenger Cable Size

The question arose: what size is the messenger cable? First, I had to determine the size of the anchor cable. Step one as indicated below, I found on another builder’s log who was quoting one of the historical ship building books of old. Sorry, didn’t record that either.

1.     “The Circumference of the anchor cable = 0.62 the Diameter of the mainmast”

2.     Main Mast Diameter (US Navy plans) = 32” (full scale)

3.     Anchor cable Circumference = 0.62 x 32” = 19.84” (0.258” scale)

4.     Anchor cable Diameter = C/π = 0.258”/3.14159 = 0.082”

5.     Guestimate that the messenger cable is ½ the Diameter of the Anchor Cable = 0.041” (3” full size)

 

I could not find the rule for messenger cable size, so it was assumed the messenger cable diameter had to be small enough to wrap around the capstan and still be strong enough to pull either the cable or chain.

 

In my stock, I have Syren Ship Model miniature tan rope sizes 0.080” and 0.035” for the anchor cable and messenger cable respectfully which should work for the model.

[JSGerson]

When I last worked on the gun deck capstan, I left it in such a manner that I could fine tune its height to the proper length when I knew how long it had to be. With the spar beam dry fitted above it, the capstan was cut and sanded to its final height and installed (shown without the spar beams).

[JSGerson]

The messenger rope was installed first since it was wrapped around the capstan. A spliced loop end was created for each end of the messenger rope first. Then the rope was wrapped around the capstan three complete times. The rope went along the gun deck to the bow around a support and back again towards the capstan. There would have been a roller mechanism for this at the apex of the turn in the actual ship, but that will not be seen in this model. The two end loops of the messenger rope were then lashed together. The lashing had to be done using needle and thread in the confined space of the model and was a bit delicate to do.

 

The anchor cable and anchor chain were inserted through their respective hawser holes in the bow, down the length of the deck using anchor chain guides previously installed, and into the pipe in the gun deck. Neither ends of the cable nor chain were permanently installed pending attachment of their anchors at a later date.

 

Oh, I also installed the framework for the main mast so it has a rake of 3.5 degrees.

[JSGerson]

Getting back to the ladder hand ropes, I left the messenger rope loose on the deck as if it had just been released from the cable or chain and the ladders were put back in place. Technically, either the messenger is in place, or the hatch covers and ladders are in use, not both at the same time. In either case, it’s all going to be difficult to see and the layman certainly won’t know anything looks out of place.

 

Next, more spar deck supports and their associated diagonal knees at their bulwarks were installed aft of the capstan. Additionally, some “temporary” (as marked on the US Navy plans) supports (painted white) were added as well. It’s getting really crowded on the gun deck.

[JSGerson]

At this point I installed the last of the gun deck furniture previously made four years ago:

• double pump
• quad pump
• sea chest
• scuttlebutt & table
• grog cask & table
• harness cask

Still to come, the remaining spar beams and associate accoutrements to support the main hatch.

[mtbediz]

She becomes a super model Jon. She has many more subtle details than mine, congratulations. I'm looking forward to getting back to my model too.

[JSGerson]

mtbediz - I appreciate the kudos, especially from you!

 

Jon

[mtbediz]

Hi Jon.

The quadruple bilge pump is currently behind the main mast of the real ship, and the double pump is in front of the mast, but in your model you have mounted the quadruple pump in front of the main mast. Is there any particular reason?

[JSGerson]

Very sharp eyes! Yes, I spotted that too. luckily the pumps were only dry fitted when the photo was taken. That misplacement was corrected almost as soon as I made my posting. I didn't think any one would notice. I appreciate your attention to the details. Thanks!

 

Jon

[GGibson]

1 hour ago, JSGerson said:

Very sharp eyes! Yes, I spotted that too.... I didn't think any one would notice. I appreciate your attention to the details.

 

Not surprised that Mustafa noticed it! Ha!  I continue to be amazed at both of your skills and your attention to details, gentlemen!  Which is why I am following you both with great awe.  Carry on, guys! 🏆