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Sultana 1767 by moreplovac - FINISHED - Model Shipways - 1/64 - Colonial Schooner


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Climbing the ratlines....

 

This is the way how i made a clove hitch...

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The second set of ratlines completed...

 

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and the sailor' view..

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To break a bit from a rigging i continue work on anchors.. I discarded anchor stocks that were provided in the kit and made one from the piece of bass strip. The dimensions were taken from the plan and transferred to the strip wit h a help of scotch tape....

 

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Two stocks were made and with file and knife carved to the correct shape. I made the stock from one piece; practicum uses two stocks and glue them together. I use one piece of wood per anchor. After carving and sanding i drill a hole in the center (1.5mm) and shape it further with a file.

 

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The final shaping was done when anchors were glued to the stocks.

 

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Next will be adding a electric tape strips to simulate iron band, a layer of golden oak stain and layer of varnish, ring for an anchor, anchor buoy ....

 

Happy modeling..

 

 

 

 

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The iron bands were simulated with black electrical tape.

 

The tape was also secured with touch of glue around the place were it will be wrapped up..

 

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The both anchors were dipped (stock down) to the golden oak stain, left with a stain for few seconds and extra stain was wiped out with bounty..

 

The ring for each anchor was made from 0.3mm black wire.

 

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The ring diameter is app 3.2mm. The rings were cut, ends were filled to provide good seating between two ends of a ring. Then a small amount of glue was applied to the ends and positioned in the way that cut ends were in the anchor, not visible from outside.

 

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The anchors will be mounted on the ship with anchor buoys.

 

As from practicum: "Ships similar to the Sultana would certainly have had them. There were strict laws and codes that mandated the use of anchor buoys while in a harbor or port. They weren’t used for the Sultana’s benefit. They were used so the other ships wouldn’t get damaged by the anchor and cable. Stiff penalties were brought against a ship’s crew when they failed to use a buoy".

 

 The kit doesn’t come with buoys so i decided to follow practicum and make them from sculpey. It was a bit hard to find out correct size but i looked at the buoys from practicum and trying to get a feeling for a size.

 

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The sculpey was cut in approximate same size loafs and shaped.

 

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The quick bake (130 degrees C for 15min) and they are ready for a next stage..

 

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I made few extras and will pick the best looking pair..

 

Happy modeling.

 


 

 

 

 

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Heck I could have saved you a lot of trouble. I have a pill that I have to take that looks exactly like that. Have a ton of them in fact!

 

Great looking anchors. I especially like the ring, turned out quite nice. 

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15 hours ago, lmagna said:

Heck I could have saved you a lot of trouble. I have a pill that I have to take that looks exactly like that. Have a ton of them in fact!

 

Great looking anchors. I especially like the ring, turned out quite nice. 

I was contemplating of getting some Advil or similar but don't think it will hold the paint that well.. 🙂

Thanks

 

 

 

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The work on buoys continue... The buoys were not included in the kit so i am following practicum when it comes to roping the buoys...

 

First, i made 4 eye bolts from 0.3 mm wire, by twisting them around a small nail..

 

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Two buoys were chosen from the pile of six. The small hole was drilled on both ends of each buoy and eye bolts were inserted. The small amount of glue was put in the hole before. The eye bolts were not inserted to the end, app 2mm reminded between buoys and eye bolts.

 

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The eye bolts were inserted... this pictures shows eye bolts fully inserted just to test the fittings..

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The harness for each buoys were made, two per each buoy. Three lines were knotted along the main, rigging line. It took a little time to space the lines properly. I used small template that helped a bit.

 

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Four sets of harness were made and set aside.

 

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The buoys were painted in flat white, not paying to much attention that color covers whole buoy. Did not want to have brand-new buoy effect...

 

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The harness was wrapped around the buoy and fixed with a small amount of glue. The three knotted strands are seized at the eye bolt; here those 2mm are coming into play..

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The second harness was also mounted making sure that space between strands is as close as equal possible. This time the strands are going above the first set of harness and seized in the same manner as the first one.

 

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Both completed..

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Another rigging line was seized on one side of the buoy. This line will be tied to the anchor. With assistance from helping hands, the work was easy to complete.

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This is the way how it will be tied to the anchor.

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Happy modeling.

 

 

 

 

 

 

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The buoy line was tied up on each anchor... A bit of a glue was put on three spots were seizing will be completed and two runs around the anchor was quite enough to keep the buoy line in place.. and to look interesting.. More work on buoys will come shortly...

 

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Then i started to do more ratlines.. Was contemplating how to make the spacing between ratlines as equal as possible and come up with this plan/idea. Not sure how it will be working but until i get something more useful i will try with this technique. The space between the ratlines was transferred on piece of wood, then individual ratlines were fixed with a small piece of scotch tape on each mark.

 

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This should provide fairly equal spacing for the ratlines. Then this template was fixed on the ship with a help of a small clamp.

 

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So when i work on one line, the rest of lines is dragged on the back of this white background so it is not in the way.

 

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It appears to be working fine for now... Then each knot was fixed with a small amount of glue and after the glue is dried, the extra line was cut with sharp cutter. For this purpose i find it more useful to use wire cutter (a good one) instead of using scissors or nail clipper.

 

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Happy modeling.

 

 

 

 

 

 

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As i always looking for some improvement in building process and tools used, i was thinking of getting some sort of template to have making of ratlines a bit more unified and easier. The challenge with helping tools i used so far is that the piece of wood with markings was always standing straight up and not following rigging angle. This has the result that wood "moves away" from the rigging and makes ratline making process a bit difficult and not always with the same distance between two ratlines.

 

So my next invention was based on this: the idea is to have a top edge of the office foder presenting a place where ratlines needs to be mounted and top edge of wood piece is matching the previous ratline. The purpose of a small cloth pin is to keep the ratline rope fixed so the first knot will not be loose...

 

The sandwich was made, the edge were sanded to have a smooth edge and pin was glued to the edge. The distance between two ratlines is 5mm. The white color of a folder provide adequate contrast for the black ratline so it was visible enough and easy to mount...

 

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Then this little helper was positioned on the ridging and fixed with another (normal size) cloth pin.

 

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The third set of ratlines is completed now with a help of this tool.

 

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These two pieces of toothpick were put in place just to divide two ringing lines so i can actually maneuver ratlines around the ridging ropes. The top of the toothpick were sanded (shape showed below) to correct spacing, cut to length of 15mm and put in between second and third ridging ropes.

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Happy modeling..

 

 

 

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... and the last ratline...

 

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So, this time consuming but very interesting task has been completed.

 

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Overall happy with the result but i can see the difference between start and end job of adding ratlines.. Plenty of lessons learned and room for improvements. I am keeping a building notes so will not forget all things that come to mind while working on this nice model..

 

Moving forward... i have start cleaning up 16 kit provided cleats..

 

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Happy modeling.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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The cleats were modified in order to fit the scale of the ship. Out of the box they were looking a bit oversized... Each cleat was cleaned and filled to fit properly on the line. They were mounted on the inside of each shroud as per kit plan. They were glued first and then, when glue was dried, lashed with a black rigging line, in size .008. The lashing was tied around the center of each cleat. Just simple two knots were enough to fix the cleats to the shroud..

 

The coat of flat black will be applied to each cleat once all are mounted and lashed.

 

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During this process i noticed few ratlines that were become loose.. Not enough glue was applied to knots. so i decided to replace them.

 

Four removed ratlines...

 

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and four replaced ratlines.

 

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Happy modeling.

 

 

 

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Cleats were installed and painted flat black.

 

Mental note to myself: don't follow practicum to the letter and paint cleats before mounting them... Much easier....

 

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Next, rigging the stays..

 

I dont have enough black rigging lines so i will try to color some dark brown (or tan) lines instead of buying new set of lines.

 

Happy modeling.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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The work on standing rigging has begun. Following practicum i will start by rigging the forestay, inner jibstay, outer jibstay and fore topmast stay.

The forestay will be rigged using a mouse. Apparently this is how schooners in those days were rigged, according to Practicum some other books referenced in it.

I was able to dig up some left over black rigging line in correct size i will be using it for this work. The rigging line is in 0.7mm (.028), and apparently this is the heaviest rigging line used on Sultana, with exception of the anchor cables. This rigging will be only one where a mouse is used.

 

The construction started by seizing a loop.

 

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It is a bit of a challenge to have it done nicely since this is very tiny loop..

 

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The loop is done, and the mouse position was marked with a piece of a tape...

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With a help of super glue i was made a pear shaped mouse by coiling sewing thread around the stay...

 

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And completed assembly..

 

- I made a mistake, the same one as mentioned in practicum so need to find a way to correct the mouse, this is not correct way of positioning the mouse.. The wider part should be further from the loop, not closer.

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Testing on the ship.. Need to be tied up a bit more...

 

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So, now to the rigging of the forestay. One more heart was made and seized on the end of the rigging line. The correct length was marked with a scotch tape and seizing done with sewing rope...

 

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And testing with some lineyards...

 

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It is already too late, finishing it up tomorrow..

 

Happy modeling.

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Just curious. You may wish to check the mouse on the stay is the correct orientation.  In Chuck’s practicum, he rigged his backwards as well but noticed too late. I believe yours is rigged in the reverse orientation. 

 

The loop should fit around the narrow ‘nose’ of the mouse as in your figure. 

 

Nice work on the stays, though!

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22 hours ago, Overworked724 said:

Just curious. You may wish to check the mouse on the stay is the correct orientation.  In Chuck’s practicum, he rigged his backwards as well but noticed too late. I believe yours is rigged in the reverse orientation. 

 

The loop should fit around the narrow ‘nose’ of the mouse as in your figure. 

 

Nice work on the stays, though!

Yes you are right, i should have done a bit more research 😞

 

I will try to correct it, i might have a bit more extra room on the line...

 

Cheers

 

 

 

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Inner jibstay is next, a new heart was made and seized on the black 0.45mm rigging line that will be used for outer jibstay.

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Then, to make a lineyard in the same length as fore stay, i made a small template out of a wire...

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This will keep the distance until i finish up seizing a top part of the line..

 

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and completed...

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Then i drilled a hole in the jib for a outer jibstay rigging...

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The outer jibstay 0.45mm will be was seized around the trestle tree. The opposite end will run thru a traveller, which i made out of a 0.3mm black wire..

 

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The loop was soldered and soldering part filled...

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Then the whole traveller was dipped into flat black paint and left to dry.

Soldering is done with a torch and solder-it paste..

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Not the expert in soldering but this combo works perfectly well..

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Finally a small piece of sewing thread was tied around the top of the traveller to finish it up.

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Single block was seized on one end of outer jibstay ..

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..which ended up today' activity.

 

Happy modeling.

 

 

 

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3 hours ago, moreplovac said:

Yes you are right, i should have done a bit more research 😞

 

I will try to correct it, i might have a bit more extra room on the line...

 

Cheers

 

 

 

 

Actually, you did the same thing I did.  I reversed it, then realized after I’d set it on the model!  Then, I removed it, remade the mouse, but forgot to thread the line before attaching the closed heart at the other end!  So, I ended up doing this 3x!

 

That’s the only reason I know! But in truth, I think it looks great and would just move on!  You are doing great!  Enjoying your (our?) Sultana build!

 

 :pirate41:

 

 

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1 hour ago, Overworked724 said:

 

Actually, you did the same thing I did.  I reversed it, then realized after I’d set it on the model!  Then, I removed it, remade the mouse, but forgot to thread the line before attaching the closed heart at the other end!  So, I ended up doing this 3x!

 

That’s the only reason I know! But in truth, I think it looks great and would just move on!  You are doing great!  Enjoying your (our?) Sultana build!

 

 :pirate41:

 

 

I will try to correct it but will not remove all of rigging line.

 

Wish i found this topic a bi earlier:

 

 

 

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Outer jibstay rigging was next.. first i have attached a single block to the hook... painted the hook in flat black paint..

 

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.. and mounted on the ship.

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Traveller was mounted next, fixed with a drop of a glue to proper position. Must say that traveller' position on kit plan and on Practicum do not match so i decided to drop it somewhere in between, where it made sense in my opinion. The outer jibstay line was pushed thru the jibstay and fixed with a scotch tape..

 

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Prep for seizing...

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And seizing completed..

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Now the other side..

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Interesting view of all kind of roping ...

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And the whole ship so far...

 

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Happy modeling.

 

 

 

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  • 3 weeks later...

 

A bit more of rigging has been completed...

 

Fore topmast stay.... main topmast stay and main stay... Following Chuck' practicum the bullseye were simulated.

 

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The rigging line going thru a block...

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tightening the line with a help of a small home-made weight...

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Lanyards for the stays on each side of a mast...

 

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And the final product...

 

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Happy modeling..

 

 

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